Its been a long day.... but don’t have a small enough spanner as get the flats on that LHS boss on the coil. Can you lock it up with a couple of nuts and screw it out?
If I remember correctly it is some odd size like a 7mm. Whatever size it is, I don't have a wrench for it.
As sad as this sounds I usually use Vise-Grip (locking pliers) or regular pliers to get that out. Might be able to do the jam nut technique.
Today I tried the rocking back and forth in 2nd ending with backwards, and kicking, but can't kick quick enough with my left foot on the ground. I put it on the stand and got on the pegs and it started 1st kick. My kick is dismal when I'm standing on the ground with my left foot. So I'll have to learn the lean it on something to the left and get up on the pegs to get my weight up, then work towards the balancing act standing still.
I often will lean the handlebars on a tree when starting my bike.
I can start it with my left foot on the ground, but I must admit it is easier to start if I am "up on the pegs"
I purchased the above bike as a fixer up'er/ hobby. The final thing to do before I can start riding it is attach the carb to the airbox correctly.
When the two are joined the carb doesn't sit flush into the airbox rubber, even if i do the jubilee clip up tight, it holds it whilst the bike sits on the stand, but not well enough to hold and ride, and shake around.
The carb nipple on the bottom has even started to wear away at the top of the engine casing. Anyone have an idea of how to remedy? I have thought about using a turbo tube of a vehicle, this will do the job, but I would rather complete the task properly rather than a temp bodge.
I installed one of these carb to airbox rubber adapters and made installation much easier and better to secure the airbox hose to the carb. It is also slightly longer than the OEM rubber adapter.
For me the best bike for 2018 is my current 2003 GasGas 300 Pro. The Old BAGG is more capable than I am, and as long as I throw $$ at parts she just keeps trucking along. (I have had good experience with her being a 15 yr old bike and the abuse I have given her)
Yes, I am whining about not being able to buy a new bike.
Personally I would go GasGas, but that is just my opinion.
I tried a 2017 Scorpa 250 and the riding stance just felt "odd" to me
if you plan on splitting the engine, you must take the engine out of the frame as zippy said. if you do not take the clutch side cover off (waterpump and kickstarter go with that) then you will have to disconnect the clutch cable and then rebleed the clutch when your assembling it or you wont get the engine out of the frame to far. the clutch can stay on the engine though.
what zippy said is a huge help and are good steps. With that said pick your poison, more bolts from taking the clutch side cover off letting it hang on the frame by the clutch cable or disconnect the clutch cable and leave the clutch cover on and rebleed clutch later.
id probably recommend taking the clutch cover off then you can inspect the clutch plates for wear since it is an older bike and also make sure the gears are in good shape.
OH good point on the clutch cover, I forgot that bit. I do normally leave the cover and clutch line hanging on the bike when I pull the engine.
Best to buy a new gasket here too, even though I have had success re-using the old one, but it is a real gamble.
And what peterb said about the oil hole. (can be seen in the first pic of my post)
You will want to have the engine removed from the frame for this. You will also need a new center gasket, it is really thin and not reusable.
If you want to leave the radiator in the frame (can be done, but really is easier to just pull it with the engine) remove water pump and disconnect the hoses on the cylinder.
remove anything else holding the engine in place, place engine on bench.
Pull cylinder, you can leave the head attached.
pull reed block. (May get lucky and reuse gaskets, but not likely)
Pull sprocket off
pull flywheel/stator and Allen bolts for case half
and voila! case half should pop apart.
Be watchful for various thrust washers/collars on gear shafts
Next is to determine which crank bearings you have, I am not sure what the 2006 has.
I found this at trialsandtribulations.com (stated for credit, not necessarily advertising. I have no connection) This states for 2005 onwards, the crankshaft bearings/seal/O-rings are all integrated as one unit. Which may explain why the seal was too small to pull with a screw
Older versions like mine have on the ignition side: going from outside in, Seal -18, bearing-19, washer-20 and another seal-21
The crank also has a collar with an O-ring between the collar and the crankshaft. Numbers 1 and 2 in bottom photo. I believe the single unit above replaces all of those bits.
(images below found at Lewisportusa.com again just for credit no other reason.)
Those ‘ scorch marks’ were the tell tale signs that the outer bearing tracks had spun in the housing. Doesn’t take much dirt to lock up a bearing. Of course if the scorch marks you describe aren’t inside the main bearing housings then I’m wrong.
The scorch marks were on the inside of the case below the bearings, they could be seen with the bearings installed. If I remember correctly they cleaned right off with some brake cleaner. (has been a few years since I owned that bike)
Main bearings were so bad at time of rebuild, if I tapped the end of the handlebars with the engine off, you could hear the crankshaft wobble and clunk.
Also the bike used more fuel after the rebuild, almost like it was recycling it
As a fellow "fat kid" (well north of 200 Lbs) I also have a 2003 GasGas, the forks are original in springs spacers etc. I run 5 wt. fork oil. and they seem to perform just fine.
My forks are the 38mm GasGas produced forks, no manufacturer markings just a part number cast into the lower fork tube.
I suggest riding it as is for a while to see if you will need stiffer springs and then decide from there.
Actually no, the trials bikes in the last couple of decades are not made to submarine through water like the days of old. Several things have happened. Most clubs in there land use do not ride in much water as they used to. The premier World Champions seem to cringe at a good wet and muddy event. And mainly the water cooled princess of bikes we ride now cannot take the abuse. Ever seen a modern bike try to cross a cold deep water stream? You have a real good chance of the cylinder cracking and locking up the motor. Trials and the bikes are not as tough as the events of old. By the way. Just run the bikes after a good wash. Also most owners manuals state this fact.
I did try to run the 2000 Sherco 2.9 I had under water........... did not stay running after sucking in water.
Long story short, pumped water out spark plug hole and finished the event.
2 yrs later the crankshaft bearings were HORRIBLE (creek had a ton of silt crap in it). Tear down bike, It had what looked like scorch marks on the cases under the crank bearing locations - rings leaking by? and there was silt/dirt caked into the corners of the intake path of the cases.
She was still running................ although she ran much better after the rebuild.
We removed the pump on ours when I was a kid, I am pretty sure my dad removed the pump on his brand new TY250 way back in the late 70's before taking it out for a spin.
I thought about that! Just afraid they might charge my card for other purchases and then have to fight to get my money back.... Then get a new credit card!
I considered ordering the GasGas shift lever, it's about $12 US.
I use a prepaid credit cart for web purchase, so most they will get if they steal info is about $50
I think the general idea of running the engine is to generate some heat to evaporate water that may fall in unwanted areas of the ignition..... if the bike is running and water gets in some electrical part it may just burble a little then dry out with some heat and all is well and you know your engine is definitely running when you finish washing it; so hopefully it will run the next time you go to it.......not having the engine running while you wash the bike or not starting it up after you wash it may leave you unable to start your bike next weekend or whenever and you will have missed an opportunity to realize it had happened at the time of the washing.and given yourself more time to deal with it.
Sherco rider at an event I was working could not get his bike to start for the event. He was at his wits end. I started asking him questions to help jog his memory/diagnose the problem.
- when was the last time it was running: Yesterday
- how long did it run: A few hours (he was practicing for the event)
- did it run ok: Ran perfect
- did you change a plug or something after getting done riding: nope, just washed the bike
- you got a bad ground mate,
Sure enough, disconnect ignition ground from frame, clean, reattach and VROOOM event was enjoyed.
(And people wonder why I don't wash my bike very often, all it does is make me notice the problems she is having) (yes, that is sarcasm)
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Edited by zippy Edited for clarification, if not clear, than poor editing
Don't forget to check the condition of the hose, I have been arguing with my front brake for mushy feel for quite some time.
I finally got very mad at it and pulled the entire system off the bike, that is when I noticed the pinched spot in my hose.
I theorize this flat spot will cause inconsistent pressure due to the flat spot trying to go round again when the brake lever is pulled in. I am awaiting a new hose to replace it. Hopefully this fixes my problem
She was an outside cat that lived for 14yrs. She would look both ways before crossing the street, but sadly the last two years she would not leave the garage in the winter (heated) and stopped moving for cars pulling into the driveway. She didn't move one day and is no longer with us.
I'll give this a go as soon as I have time, thanks. Snowstorm is stopping me doing anything at the mo since my fingers freeze about 3 minutes into working in the garage.
You need to get yourself a "garage cat" that is not allowed in the house. (I had one for 14yrs) Use the excuse that you want to keep the rodent population down. Once you have said cat, then you need to explain to the significant other that it would be inhumane to not have a warm area for the cat during the cold months. Now you need to install a furnace in the garage, just to keep it at a steady 40 degrees(F) for the cat. Upside is when you go to the garage you will then be able to kick the heat up to 60F or so to keep you warm while out in the garage. (this worked for me )
1, check pads make sure they are good or replace to make sure
2. Make sure the push rod has just a little play before it hits the master cylinder piston. this allows the piston to fully return in the master cylinder.
3. for some reason air gets trapped at/near the top of the master cylinder and it just does not go anywhere. The following method works for me to get rid of the air. Raise the front tire, on a truck tail gate, work bench or whatever. Using the brake pedal pump up/get pressure on the brake system. Loosen the banjo bolt for the hose on the master cylinder. You should hear the air escaping. The banjo bolt is a little odd to get to and is easiest accessed using an offset box end wrench. I think it is 14mm but I may be wrong on the size.
My 2003 has some up and down play in the rear linkage when on the stand. Not sure how much play, just that I can lift the rear tire and it is noticeable.
The play is still there even after replacing all of the linkage bearings.
Marzocchi fork seal size
in Gas Gas
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