I use tire irons to put tires on. If I remember correctly the first side goes on without the tire levers and the second side I use the levers for the last 1/4 of the bead, just small sections at a time and it goes on easy. Done Michelins, IRC and Dunlop this way, never hurt the bead. Like many things in life there are a million and one different methods to achieve the same results.
On a side note: Do we as trials riders actually have our tires on long enough to worry about the rubber rotting if regular soap or WD40 is used?
Kelsey,
It's a shame that you had a bad experience with the Dunlops.
Just fitted one last night ready for the Reeth Three Day.
Easy peasy. Secret is to lubricate bead with WD40, it will slip on easily, put in a tyre worm or a partly inflated MTB inner tube, inflate and it will blow out very easily.
WD40 may be an unusual lubricant to use, rather than soap and water, but WD40 is water based and when it dries out, it sort of glues to tyre to the rim. Certainly they will run for a considerable distance flat without coming off the rim should you get a puncture.
I don't believe that WD40 (Water Displacement formula #40) is water based,
Right from the WD40 FAQ
"What does WD-40 contain?
While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents."
But as far as mounting the Dunlop 803 I have had no trouble, put some straight dish soap on the bead pops right on. Get out my ratcheting tie down and just snug it down to the rim, If the tire tread area is buckling that is too far. Air it up and POP, it's on.
95% is technique, I can get my TLR200 Reflex on the front wheel pretty easy, My Sherco I can get almost to going over (cuz well I really don't want to go over)
You need to come to Mid-Michigan's event this weekend. If your bike is ready you MUST ride, if it is not you can hang out and have a few with all of us. Would be a good break for ya and recharge your psychic batteries. (or was that psycho)
Did you use the rim band with the valve stem incorporated into it or was it a traditional rim band with the valve stem separate?
Now get MR 2 to a autocross track and have some fun ...
Glenn
Wait a minute, wouldn't autocross cost me $$$$......................I know I would enjoy myself, but I am positive MRS. Zippy would be not amused.
Also truck is going to be used for many truck like things, firewood hauling, log positioning, ditch driving through, helping friends and relatives move (we never want to but you know it is going to happen if you own a truck), also can tow my MR2 the next time it decides to stop running
Well that is a 100% improvement from the last effort. If its reasonably priced and rides well i'm sure they will sell a fair few. It actually looks like somebody with a bit of artistic flare has been involved this time. Still slightly looks like an 09 Sherco though!
And the 2010 Sherco frame resembles the Gasser,
Agreed great improvement over previous models in the "look" department. It looks like a capable machine, 295cc should satisfy the power hungry of us. Also agree that if reasonably priced and holds up well, rides well. Should sell a few.
If XPA would like to send me a couple free bikes for Team WGASA to test out, we would GLADLY put them through the paces of some really crappy club level riding.
It's good to hear that there is still trials (observed) after getting the Chop, Cut, Rebuild knee. I assume it is like anything that is modified on the human body, results are dependent on The skill of the Doc in performing the operation, the skill of the parts makers so they fit properly, and how well your own body heals and takes the addition of foreign objects in the body. Of course as any of us that have been injured knows the physiotherapy is VERY important in order to get back to normal.
I had my TLR200 Street legal for a while as a back up for my Ninja. Then my Sherco died and I had to ride trials with something, My wife said I had to take off all the lights so I did not destroy them. I am moving away from riding on the road and have decided I want to set up my TLR200 Reflex for trials competition.
My impressions of the TLR200 on the street.
Is so much easier to balance at stop signs and traffic signals than my Ninja. (ya know trials riders like to keep their feet on the pegs)
I got really strange looks when it was 32degrees F out and everyone is scraping their windshields while I scrape off my seat.
Never used 1st gear on the street just too low, took off in 2nd all the time,
Top speed was 50MPH. (with a tail wind and going down hill )
Seat not very comfortable for more than about 15 miles.
Really tough to resist the urge to ride over rocks and in ditches that I saw on the side of the road on my way to and from work.
I think I have a 10 tooth front sprocket so that may have reduced the top speed, I think stock is 11 tooth.
The ride itself is actually rather smooth.
Don't know about the different plates you mentioned, what advantage would their be going with the ATV plate?
I think alot depends on which knee replacement surgery you get.
There is the basic "rebuild" which is where a metal cap is put on the end of one bone and a teflon like pad is put on the end of the other.
The other type is what my dad had done which is much more severe, The old flesh and bone knee is cut away, think sawzall through the bone a few inches above and below the knee. A new Knee (hinge basically) is then put in place of the original. There is a barbed metal spike that is POUNDED into the center of the bones into the marrow that holds it in place. I believe the possibility of riding again after that is greatly reduced.
I have Osteo-arthritis in one of my knees and the Doc says I will have a knee replacement in the future, I am doing all I can to keep it from happening before age 65 or 70 or 80 LOL, but I don't want to wait too long and end up with the second type of replacement. The rebuild type I believe they can easily replace the "Teflon" pad. But hey I could be wrong on a few of these things.
I was talking about the EPA and DOT certification. I was told that the EPA cert was $10K + a bike to test, and a mountain of paperwork. . Not sure about the other paperwork that Motofire was referring to - God forbid the bike has any lead in it! .... In any case, I believe the US importer is the responsible party to make sure this happen - so it may be awhile (ever?) before we see a bike in the US. (Isn't that why there aren't any Xispa bikes in the US??)
The lead is only a problem if the bike is manufactured directly to children...........they don't care if us adults chew on the frame and get lead poisoning. Stupid overboard use of the law. Really how many kids are gonna chew on the frame or remove the protective covers on the ones with batteries and take a lick.
The Montesa rim sounds great, but I'm sure out of my budget.
Hope to have this baby rolling for Vermontville.
And there are many of us that miss seeing Super Sherco Sam!!!
As far as budget goes just convince the little woman that this is a matter of utmost importance and that your life would be greatly enriched by the purchase of a new rear wheel. Yep I should have been either in advertising or a lawyer.
Dunlop D803 Mounting Issues
in General Trials Talk
Posted
ooooh kinky
Corrosion of the rim would be bad and an ongoing problem. We don't replace rims just as a normal consumable item.
so what exactly is in "tire soap" is it soap or is that just the name of it?