I usually put the two bolts in the front of the bash plate (near header pipe) just loose of course and use vise grips to pull the bottom of bash plate up to the mounting tabs under the engine.
refitting the bash plate is going to be a challenge........
If you have or can find somebody with a mechanical or ideally a Hydraulic press the bash plate can be "adjusted" so that the shape is more conducive to remounting. I have done it about 4 times. Just keep a close eye on it. We did have to bend it a little bit farther than it needed because as the pressure is let off the bash plate springs back a bit.
the ones that have no rim tape is a solid rim with the turnbuckle type spokes.
Why don't all the manufacturers use this type of rim?????? seems to me that would solve all leak problems except for leaking at the bead itself.
If it were the perfect solution then they would all have this rim.
Not necessarily, If the cost for the DID is substantially higher then the spoke through design. Those budget minded manufacturers would go with the spoke through design. All boils down to $$$$$$$ seen the price on a mont?
My 2000 tank has a tightness issue. Bloody pain in the a*** to get fitted properly. As an adjustment fix I ovaled out the hole that the top mounting screw fits into and that gave it enough space to snugly fit into place. I don't know what other years have for the top mount bolt to go through but the 2000 has a flat plate between the frame rails. Hope this makes sense.
I have a subscription and I look forward to it every month. As a new trials guy I go straight to the Ryan Young training section. I wish I could go back to lesson 1 though, I didn't start my subscription until lesson #9 I think
These may not be all the same ones as in Trials and Enduro news but may be helpful.
Depends on how deep the grooves are. Minor clean disc with some wet/dry fine grit sandpaper, I soaked the paper with WD-40 when I cleaned mine up. New pads will "Bed in" eventually.
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