Engine is a Beta TR32 - 240cc, bought it off ebay UK and supposedly it ran...
The holes are from lack of tools from my last place waaay back. I had to narrow down the rear mounts and only had an angle grinder for the job.
If the liquid metal starts leaking I´ll take it to my friend for a weld.
AAhh Machining on a budget. I also do similar things
"Any engine will fit any frame, but it may need to be convinced a little"
Hoping the liquid metal works for ya, but you may want to invest in a puller, may need it for future maintenance.
Sorry, I only speak Italian and American english, lol. What's the room that everyone congregates in to watch TV and hang out on the sofa called in the UK? I guess the lounge?
My wife calls it the "Front Room", even if it is not in the front of the house.............. and my GasGas is in the garage. (but the garage is heated)
Has anyone ever noticed that busto rides with his middle fingers for clutch and brake!? Does anyone else do that ? I tried it earlier it’s really weird!
I would imagine there is more strength with the middle fingers for pulling in the levers, and a more "balanced" grip for the fingers.............. but feels weird as all hell when I try it.
I am about 5'8" tall and we will just go with a little north of the 250 lb mark......
I can do an ok splatter, a decent zap, can finish a trial without dying, hop the front and hop the rear around. I do have bar risers, mainly because it was cheaper than buying a new set of bars with a high bend. (low back was sore leaning forward)
My biggest difficulty, sadly to say, is getting my boots buckled, damn belly gets in the way. But I can find traction pretty easily with all this gravitational pull.
I ride a 300 because I like how they perform/react etc., a 250 will do the same stuff, just may use slightly different throttle inputs etc.
as I see I don't have these parts you mentioned. to sum up, I need parts 13, 20, 41, 43 and after changing all of them I can be 100% sure that's everything okay with oil from gearbox, right?
thank you so much again
regards
Well, I am not sure about 100% , but I would say that if those parts are changed you should be reasonably confident that the usual ways for gearbox oil to get to the combustion chamber are fixed.
Be sure to take note of the location of the outside hole of the main bearing when you pop it out to change 41, it needs to match up with a hole in the cases to allow the gearbox oil to lube the bearing.
Good luck sir, and may your oil troubles be fixed.
yes, I measured it, there was always big difference.
my gas gas is from 2008. so about these o-rings, you mean that part number 20 from the first picture can be also possible source of the problem?
the O-ring part number 20 in your pic may be a source of issue, but that O-ring may be integrated into the new style bearings that eliminates the need for the collars that I have on my bike. the O-rings and collar I was referring to are Part numbers 1 and 2 in this Pic:
It appears to me that according to your parts listing for 2008 you have the "new" style main bearing. (pic below) this has the O-rings number 20 sand 41 built in. I am not sure if these O-rings can be purchased separately.
Pic of "new upgraded main bearing" Note the internal and external O-rings.
1. Start your bike, let it idle for a bit and note how much it smokes, in Neutral rev it up as though you are about to hit a 4 ft splatter. Does it smoke the same as idle or more. If more you most likely have a seal of some type leaking. If smoke is the same go to step 2.
2. Go for a blast in 5/6 gear getting exhaust good and hot. Does it smoke more now, if yes probably just oil build up in exhaust burning off.
You mention losing gearbox oil so I am betting step 1. will smoke more.
common Locations of oil getting into cylinder:
crank seal / associated O-rings on clutch side, center gasket,
Depending on what year GasGas Pro you have you may have the new upgrade crank bearings or you may not.
If you have the old style like I do there is a collar on the crankshaft, this collar has an O-ring between the collar and the crankshaft.
I had that O-ring go bad once and the bike was consuming oil.
It is a right Bas*ard to change and I changed the O-rings and collar. Old collar comes off hard.
When stop allowed but no reversing if you watched where somebody started hopping from and then where they finished up they could of gone back a few inches but you could never tell at which point they actually went back but they did -5's were hardly ever given.
Also I found you had to use more markers and tape to stop riders splitting sections into sevral zones each being attempted at odd angles of attack rather than a straightforward route through the planned section.
As said already the simple answer is that there isn't one!!
I am ok with hopping causing a rider to move back a couple of inches, but I also believe that attempting an obstacle, keeping both feet on the pegs and failing the obstacle, but backing up and attempting again is a 5. due to the fact the rider already failed the obstacle the first attempt.
Using more markers and tape is half the fun of setting up a section: "How can I force them to ride this the way I want them to?"
Personal opinion, can't remember where I first saw this but I believe ITSA (USA) runs with these rules.
This makes sense to me for how the sport and riders have progressed.
Stop, balance, feet up, no other support = 0
stay moving, feet up, balance, no other support = 0
Stop, foot down, or other support (ex. leaning on tree) = 5.
This allows for stop and hop, or no-stop equally, but penalizes the rider for the "all day dab".
But you better be able to stop and hop without putting your foot down. If MOTA went to these rules I would have to drop a class in order to not get maximum points. I would be ok with that. Section severity would not need to change, in order to make it harder. Just need to have better control of your bike.
A perfect assessment of the situation as regards what I said on the subject; down to a tee and on the oil thing the Vertigo motor in the UK and other places in Europe runs on a mix of 200:1 and there have been no complaints over a years usage ..... there is also a post on here of some one in Italy in a region where it gets a lot hotter than the UK and he has been running 80:1 in an aircooled twinshock trial bike for along while and after the first year of running at 80:1 he says that he stripped his engine and found no abnormal wear.
This key board Warror thing is getting like Trumps "Fake News" media captioning........mind you it is very on trend ;is it not, given the current sabre rattling going on around the planet ,performed on Twithead and facefxxx
I only mentioned "keyboard warrior" because I wasn't sure if I was explaining what people already knew and I may have mis-interpreted their posts.. But from the sounds of it we are all on the same page of what the issues are with Nubsey's bike. and what the repairs should be.
Oh this is getting needlessly messy... I am going back to my coffee.
I would rather not discuss Trump, "Fake News", or the Sabre rattling that is occurring on social media, too much drama and anger there.
Nubsey,
Keep us informed on the performance of the bike, and hope you have many hours of fun with the grandson.
Hi all have hit a snag with the oilseal. I need a puller to remove the flywheel under the big nut on the clutch side. Anyone know whats it's called and where one can get hold of one. It looks like it would have two bolts that go into the flywheel with a bar that would go over the main shaft and then another bolt that would screw down on the main shaft. Have put up a picture of the part that has to come off.
Personal opinion here. Possible "keyboard warrior" moment. without actually being there to see the bike etc.
I think some of my very knowledgeable fellow TC home mechanics may be getting confused due to terminology being used.
The pic above Nubsey has referred to as the "flywheel behind the big nut". Most of us when we see "flywheel" we think of the stator side of the engine and a hole in that seal would suck in air, causing a lean condition making the bike rev higher, etc... But what he is actually referring to here is the gear on the crankshaft that drives the clutch basket.
So my recap: (if I am incorrect please let me know)
Bike is a 2000 GasGas, this is before the pro and the motor is very similar to a Sherco of the same year. (because Sherco based theirs on GasGas). There is only one Crankshaft seal on each side of the motor.
The hole in the Crankshaft seal on the clutch side of the motor behind the crankshaft gear pictured above will allow the gearbox oil to be sucked into the cylinder and burned, causing massive smoking and the loss of gearbox oil.
I believe the spring side of the seal is to be oriented towards the "pressure" side of the seal, in this case, as the piston comes down it will provide pressure toward the seals and this will actually "push" the seal against the shaft assisting with the sealing abilities.
I think the remaining smoking when revved hard is due to running 50:1 on your pre-mix. Yes it can be done, yes it will run, but it is not necessary to run that much oil in the premix. Most trials bikes are running 80:1, a few at 70:1, a couple at 90:1, I even heard of one running 100:1.
If you have not repacked the muffler there could be some smoking from there if it happens after running it hard down a trail getting the exhaust very hot and "burning" the oil out of the muffler packing.
OK sorry for long post, "keyboard warrior" moment has passed.
(don't know why the hole was in the seal, may never know, chalk it up to gremlins)
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Budget Trials Build
in Beta
Posted
AAhh Machining on a budget. I also do similar things
"Any engine will fit any frame, but it may need to be convinced a little"
Hoping the liquid metal works for ya, but you may want to invest in a puller, may need it for future maintenance.