zippy

Personal opinion, can't remember where I first saw this but I believe ITSA (USA) runs with these rules. This makes sense to me for how the sport and riders have progressed. Stop, balance, feet up, no other support = 0 stay moving, feet up, balance, no other support = 0 Stop, foot down, or other support (ex. leaning on tree) = 5. This allows for stop and hop, or no-stop equally, but penalizes the rider for the "all day dab". But you better be able to stop and hop without putting your foot down. If MOTA went to these rules I would have to drop a class in order to not get maximum points. I would be ok with that. Section severity would not need to change, in order to make it harder. Just need to have better control of your bike.

I only mentioned "keyboard warrior" because I wasn't sure if I was explaining what people already knew and I may have mis-interpreted their posts.. But from the sounds of it we are all on the same page of what the issues are with Nubsey's bike. and what the repairs should be. Oh this is getting needlessly messy... I am going back to my coffee. I would rather not discuss Trump, "Fake News", or the Sabre rattling that is occurring on social media, too much drama and anger there. Nubsey, Keep us informed on the performance of the bike, and hope you have many hours of fun with the grandson.

So Denver won't let you enter? Did you not make reservations or did you forget it was suit and tie type of establishment?

Personal opinion here. Possible "keyboard warrior" moment. without actually being there to see the bike etc. I think some of my very knowledgeable fellow TC home mechanics may be getting confused due to terminology being used. The pic above Nubsey has referred to as the "flywheel behind the big nut". Most of us when we see "flywheel" we think of the stator side of the engine and a hole in that seal would suck in air, causing a lean condition making the bike rev higher, etc... But what he is actually referring to here is the gear on the crankshaft that drives the clutch basket. So my recap: (if I am incorrect please let me know) Bike is a 2000 GasGas, this is before the pro and the motor is very similar to a Sherco of the same year. (because Sherco based theirs on GasGas). There is only one Crankshaft seal on each side of the motor. The hole in the Crankshaft seal on the clutch side of the motor behind the crankshaft gear pictured above will allow the gearbox oil to be sucked into the cylinder and burned, causing massive smoking and the loss of gearbox oil. I believe the spring side of the seal is to be oriented towards the "pressure" side of the seal, in this case, as the piston comes down it will provide pressure toward the seals and this will actually "push" the seal against the shaft assisting with the sealing abilities. I think the remaining smoking when revved hard is due to running 50:1 on your pre-mix. Yes it can be done, yes it will run, but it is not necessary to run that much oil in the premix. Most trials bikes are running 80:1, a few at 70:1, a couple at 90:1, I even heard of one running 100:1. If you have not repacked the muffler there could be some smoking from there if it happens after running it hard down a trail getting the exhaust very hot and "burning" the oil out of the muffler packing. OK sorry for long post, "keyboard warrior" moment has passed. (don't know why the hole was in the seal, may never know, chalk it up to gremlins)

OH I have all kinds of opinions..... HAHAHAHAHA What I do for the packing is just open the bag and wrap the center tube with all of the packing that is there. The packing I get is one piece similar to a chunk of insulation. Many different brands etc. but like this http://www.hrpowersports.com/product-p/270340.htm then I use some masking tape (white papery type tape) to hold it in place/ compress enough to fit inside muffer then cut the packing at the same length as the center tube or maybe quarter inch longer at each end. then SHOVE it in the muffler, it is a tight fit. Most likely the old packing will come apart in pieces, be soaked with oil etc.. not really easily used as a pattern.

My opinions: Step one: switch to 80/1 for the fuel/oil mix Step two: repack the muffler - Local motorcycle shop should have "exhaust packing" drill out rivets holding end cap, remove end cap. Pull perforated tube out of muffler along with all old packing. Make sure holes in center tube are clear, they can fill up with carbon, gunk etc.., make sure inside of muffler is clean. Wrap center tube with new packing, may have to wrap it a little tight to get it to fit back in muffler, cut the excess length of packing off. SHOVE the wrapped center tube back into the muffler, line up the tube with the hole at the end of the muffler, reinstall end cap making sure to line up the hole with the center tube. Rivet end cap back on. Hanging exhaust center box over a pail wouldn't hurt either to let anything in there drip out that could drip out. Step three: run bike Step four: IF you are burning transmission oil it will be either the crankshaft seal on the clutch side, (that is where the oil is, Flywheel side would let air in and the bike would run lean and rev up a bunch) or the center gasket failed between transmission and Crankshaft area. You stated " I seriously suspect the oilseals on the crank case. Could drain the oil, from gear box and run it, but I suspect it would only prove my thoughts. " NEVER run the bike without fluids in it for lubrication and cooling, BAD things will happen very fast. Just my opinions.

Vtrgg3002f0740086 I would say based on the table above your VIN is for a 2005 model 300cc (also look on the cylinder flywheel side by the exhaust and you should see 30 stamped/cast into it) 3002 = 300 model with the 02 year of Europe homogulation F = 2005 07 = manufactured in July 4 = manufactured in 2004 0086 = 86th bike made As for gearbox oil, the Pro engine uses much less than the previous model engine. Takes approx 380cc, but of course watch the sight glass on the clutch cover and fill it to halfway or just above halfway. Which oil to use? there is a wide range of opinions on that.............

That's a lot of extra $$ going out just for the privilege to drive a car. I can understand the decision made.

Oh My God!! You are such a strong fellow to be able to go on in life with out the caress of a scooby enveloping your bum when you need to travel. We should start a Go Fund Me for you to be reunited with a love of your life.

Apparently I have a liquor store, just didn't know it.

Regarding threadlock: Be careful with it, don't use too much and I would suggest using the "blue" vs the "red" (what we have in the States) . The blue will allow for removal, whereas the red is almost permanent. The head on my bolt is not very thick so there is not much material for the Allen wrench to grab onto and could strip easily, I think it is a 3 mm or 4 mm

Maybe not, Gassers have had their fare share of rectifier and stator issues as well, (maybe more rectifier issues than stator).

I have had to split the cases an equal number of times for the 03 GasGas 300 as I did with the 2000 Sherco 2.9 I owned before it. In the same period of time. but to be honest it would have been less for the GasGas except I misdiagnosed a bad rear wheel bearing as being a transmission problem, and one other time I replaced the crank seals but went on the cheap and did not replace the little O-ring under the spacer on the crank shaft. So basically the Sherco had to be split more often for crank bearing failures than the GasGas for transmission.

I have knocked the "button" of the wrist strap off with my belly, and came to an abrupt stop. Wonder if the wrist strap is trying to tell me something?

I love my Alpinestars No stops. The sole has a steel shank in it that keeps the sole from flexing/wrapping around the footpegs when landing off steps. (helps my arch not hurt) I believe the Alpinestars Tech T boots also have the steel shank. which may have helped with your odd landing of toes in the dirt/heal in the air. Honestly I don't know if other brands of boots have that steel shank in the soles or not. edit: the No stops are very comfortable, even from new. feels like I am wearing a pair of hiking boots.

Air Bags!!!!

when I bought mine about 4 yrs ago both of my rims had cracks in the vertical bit. I took them to a skilled welder. He ground a bit out and welded it up. He smoothed the inside surface but at my request left the outside with the weld built up. my theory was keep it stronger. No problem with the front rim as of yet. the rear rim has held up fine. the rear hub not so much.

you making me jealous. HA

So today I thought maybe the front wheel bearings were bad and causing a wobble that transferred into bad front brake. I popped off the front wheel and to my surprise the wheel bearings were not loose at all. The wheel bearings so tight they did not roll. Not just hard to roll or notchy. The damn things (both sides) will NOT move. SO new wheel bearings later and run around yard a bit and I think we are all good again.

The issue I am having is the front brake will engage with the lever at the exact spot I want it to, but during an event in the middle of a random section it will engage with the lever closer to the bars and I don't have the leverage/travel to get the front brake to bite the way it should. Then later it works fine, almost like air in the system at just that point. I have done the following: Bled the system, Replaced master cylinder Rebuilt caliper (pistons and seals) Discovered the pads were binding - ground the edges so the pad would slide in the caliper without touching the caliper and drilled the mounting holes 1 drill bit size larger to allow the pad to slide along the mounting pins. Replaced front wheel bearings - which I may need to do again. It is as though for some reason one brake pad contacts the fixed disc and pushes it towards the other pad, but being fixed the disc stays put. then I am waiting for the other pad to come over and press on the disc as well or it never does and there is about half of the force on the disc. My hope is that a floating disc will "slide over" that little bit, taking up slack from the different variables and allow pads to put pressure on both sides of the disc. Is that clear as mud? It will probably be a while before the keeper of the finances lets me try my theory.

Yep you can make jokes, but after clicking on the "ignore" option I won't have to see them anymore. Goodbye, have a nice life.

I have a 2003 pro 300, i love my bike. This 280 does look a little rough, but like you said you will be learning and will crash so looks are not as important. just looking at pics of the bike the front tire needs replacing and that front rim is in need of replacing. Offer lower price to compensate for the need to replace the front rim. Fork seals look good, A bike of this vintage will most likely look rough, so the big kicker is how does it function. Start it up and listen to how it sounds, ride it around a bit. check the rear suspension linkage for large amount of play, the dogbones take quite a beating getting hit on obstacles (small design flaw). Listen for weird sounds (squeaks, creaks, metal grinding, etc.). Look at the lower rear motor mount and look for cracks in the case and the brackets on the frame. If that bolt was loose for a long period of time either of those could break. Frame can be welded and made stronger, broken case is a bad deal. But if she runs strong, and frame, etc.. are good shape, and the price is right for you. snap it up and have fun. Just my 2 cents.

The Old BAGG is still fun to ride, her sister Big tiTTy ('86 TT350) sure is fun to play with also. Amazing difference in how that 2003 300 runs now that I have a Keihin carb and Carbontech reeds. anyway back to the front brake. so in theory if I buy a floaty disc and the spacers for a GasGas (and maybe new bolts) I should be able to make it a floaty. About $100 for the upgrade, not bad (I am basically buying a new bike...... $100 at a time HAHAH)

A simple " I think you will need to buy a new disc with bigger holes to accommodate the spacers" would have been enough. If you are going to merely find my posts as an opportunity to either insult my bike or myself I would appreciate it if you would just keep scrolling and find something else to do with your time.

I would like to switch my 2003 Pro front disc from being a solid mount to a floater mount. Is this as easy as just installing the bolts and collars that a floater disc uses?