zippy

OH I have all kinds of opinions..... HAHAHAHAHA What I do for the packing is just open the bag and wrap the center tube with all of the packing that is there. The packing I get is one piece similar to a chunk of insulation. Many different brands etc. but like this http://www.hrpowersports.com/product-p/270340.htm then I use some masking tape (white papery type tape) to hold it in place/ compress enough to fit inside muffer then cut the packing at the same length as the center tube or maybe quarter inch longer at each end. then SHOVE it in the muffler, it is a tight fit. Most likely the old packing will come apart in pieces, be soaked with oil etc.. not really easily used as a pattern.

My opinions: Step one: switch to 80/1 for the fuel/oil mix Step two: repack the muffler - Local motorcycle shop should have "exhaust packing" drill out rivets holding end cap, remove end cap. Pull perforated tube out of muffler along with all old packing. Make sure holes in center tube are clear, they can fill up with carbon, gunk etc.., make sure inside of muffler is clean. Wrap center tube with new packing, may have to wrap it a little tight to get it to fit back in muffler, cut the excess length of packing off. SHOVE the wrapped center tube back into the muffler, line up the tube with the hole at the end of the muffler, reinstall end cap making sure to line up the hole with the center tube. Rivet end cap back on. Hanging exhaust center box over a pail wouldn't hurt either to let anything in there drip out that could drip out. Step three: run bike Step four: IF you are burning transmission oil it will be either the crankshaft seal on the clutch side, (that is where the oil is, Flywheel side would let air in and the bike would run lean and rev up a bunch) or the center gasket failed between transmission and Crankshaft area. You stated " I seriously suspect the oilseals on the crank case. Could drain the oil, from gear box and run it, but I suspect it would only prove my thoughts. " NEVER run the bike without fluids in it for lubrication and cooling, BAD things will happen very fast. Just my opinions.

Vtrgg3002f0740086 I would say based on the table above your VIN is for a 2005 model 300cc (also look on the cylinder flywheel side by the exhaust and you should see 30 stamped/cast into it) 3002 = 300 model with the 02 year of Europe homogulation F = 2005 07 = manufactured in July 4 = manufactured in 2004 0086 = 86th bike made As for gearbox oil, the Pro engine uses much less than the previous model engine. Takes approx 380cc, but of course watch the sight glass on the clutch cover and fill it to halfway or just above halfway. Which oil to use? there is a wide range of opinions on that.............

That's a lot of extra $$ going out just for the privilege to drive a car. I can understand the decision made.

Oh My God!! You are such a strong fellow to be able to go on in life with out the caress of a scooby enveloping your bum when you need to travel. We should start a Go Fund Me for you to be reunited with a love of your life.

Apparently I have a liquor store, just didn't know it.

Regarding threadlock: Be careful with it, don't use too much and I would suggest using the "blue" vs the "red" (what we have in the States) . The blue will allow for removal, whereas the red is almost permanent. The head on my bolt is not very thick so there is not much material for the Allen wrench to grab onto and could strip easily, I think it is a 3 mm or 4 mm

Maybe not, Gassers have had their fare share of rectifier and stator issues as well, (maybe more rectifier issues than stator).

I have had to split the cases an equal number of times for the 03 GasGas 300 as I did with the 2000 Sherco 2.9 I owned before it. In the same period of time. but to be honest it would have been less for the GasGas except I misdiagnosed a bad rear wheel bearing as being a transmission problem, and one other time I replaced the crank seals but went on the cheap and did not replace the little O-ring under the spacer on the crank shaft. So basically the Sherco had to be split more often for crank bearing failures than the GasGas for transmission.

I have knocked the "button" of the wrist strap off with my belly, and came to an abrupt stop. Wonder if the wrist strap is trying to tell me something?

I love my Alpinestars No stops. The sole has a steel shank in it that keeps the sole from flexing/wrapping around the footpegs when landing off steps. (helps my arch not hurt) I believe the Alpinestars Tech T boots also have the steel shank. which may have helped with your odd landing of toes in the dirt/heal in the air. Honestly I don't know if other brands of boots have that steel shank in the soles or not. edit: the No stops are very comfortable, even from new. feels like I am wearing a pair of hiking boots.

Air Bags!!!!

when I bought mine about 4 yrs ago both of my rims had cracks in the vertical bit. I took them to a skilled welder. He ground a bit out and welded it up. He smoothed the inside surface but at my request left the outside with the weld built up. my theory was keep it stronger. No problem with the front rim as of yet. the rear rim has held up fine. the rear hub not so much.

you making me jealous. HA

So today I thought maybe the front wheel bearings were bad and causing a wobble that transferred into bad front brake. I popped off the front wheel and to my surprise the wheel bearings were not loose at all. The wheel bearings so tight they did not roll. Not just hard to roll or notchy. The damn things (both sides) will NOT move. SO new wheel bearings later and run around yard a bit and I think we are all good again.

The issue I am having is the front brake will engage with the lever at the exact spot I want it to, but during an event in the middle of a random section it will engage with the lever closer to the bars and I don't have the leverage/travel to get the front brake to bite the way it should. Then later it works fine, almost like air in the system at just that point. I have done the following: Bled the system, Replaced master cylinder Rebuilt caliper (pistons and seals) Discovered the pads were binding - ground the edges so the pad would slide in the caliper without touching the caliper and drilled the mounting holes 1 drill bit size larger to allow the pad to slide along the mounting pins. Replaced front wheel bearings - which I may need to do again. It is as though for some reason one brake pad contacts the fixed disc and pushes it towards the other pad, but being fixed the disc stays put. then I am waiting for the other pad to come over and press on the disc as well or it never does and there is about half of the force on the disc. My hope is that a floating disc will "slide over" that little bit, taking up slack from the different variables and allow pads to put pressure on both sides of the disc. Is that clear as mud? It will probably be a while before the keeper of the finances lets me try my theory.

Yep you can make jokes, but after clicking on the "ignore" option I won't have to see them anymore. Goodbye, have a nice life.

I have a 2003 pro 300, i love my bike. This 280 does look a little rough, but like you said you will be learning and will crash so looks are not as important. just looking at pics of the bike the front tire needs replacing and that front rim is in need of replacing. Offer lower price to compensate for the need to replace the front rim. Fork seals look good, A bike of this vintage will most likely look rough, so the big kicker is how does it function. Start it up and listen to how it sounds, ride it around a bit. check the rear suspension linkage for large amount of play, the dogbones take quite a beating getting hit on obstacles (small design flaw). Listen for weird sounds (squeaks, creaks, metal grinding, etc.). Look at the lower rear motor mount and look for cracks in the case and the brackets on the frame. If that bolt was loose for a long period of time either of those could break. Frame can be welded and made stronger, broken case is a bad deal. But if she runs strong, and frame, etc.. are good shape, and the price is right for you. snap it up and have fun. Just my 2 cents.

The Old BAGG is still fun to ride, her sister Big tiTTy ('86 TT350) sure is fun to play with also. Amazing difference in how that 2003 300 runs now that I have a Keihin carb and Carbontech reeds. anyway back to the front brake. so in theory if I buy a floaty disc and the spacers for a GasGas (and maybe new bolts) I should be able to make it a floaty. About $100 for the upgrade, not bad (I am basically buying a new bike...... $100 at a time HAHAH)

A simple " I think you will need to buy a new disc with bigger holes to accommodate the spacers" would have been enough. If you are going to merely find my posts as an opportunity to either insult my bike or myself I would appreciate it if you would just keep scrolling and find something else to do with your time.

I would like to switch my 2003 Pro front disc from being a solid mount to a floater mount. Is this as easy as just installing the bolts and collars that a floater disc uses?

On my 300 the kick starter is moved forward one spline on the shaft. It can be started with my left foot on the ground and kicking with the right, but it is much easier if my left foot is up on the peg. So the comment earlier about a tree or something to lean on is fairly accurate, if you got a tree or something to lean against then you can get your feet on the pegs. Once there, bring the kick starter back to where you feel pressure (take up the slack), from there kick firmly and smoothly with some authority. Mine starts first or second kick. Maybe this will help for a manual of some sort, http://www.gasgasmotos.es/en/manuals/1.html

I disagree, the Sherco is more Blue than the Scorpa

Would you guys stop trying to stirrup trouble?

My GasGas has a fixed front and rear disc. I think the floating front disc allows for the caliper pistons to move better at the disc and give better braking and feedback. My theory is: fixed disc does not move so if there is something amiss with the pistons they will push on one side of the disc before the other. Then you must wait for the pistons on the other side to move towards the disc to engage. but with a floating disc the disc will move with the first pistons and "meet" the other set of pistons resulting in positive engagement sooner. I may not know anything or this may be correct, I am not sure. but I do notice a difference between my fixed disc GasGas and the floating disc Sherco I had prior. it's not a huge difference, but I do notice it.