woody

The easiest way to get the engine out of the frame is to first remove the cylinder and head with engine in the bike, then remove the engine. It is possible to remove the engine with cylinder and head fitted but it can be a real struggle, much easier without - same when refitting. Also easier with the ignition and clutch side casings removed. To remove the cylinder and head you'll need to remove the middle silencer as the head will catch the front of it. For the engine, remove the two rear and one of the front engine mount bolts, hold the engine by the cylinder studs and then remove the last front bolt, the engine will drop forwards and out or lift out For engine removal the only proper tool you need is a C spanner that correctly fits the threaded ring that holds the exhaust in the cylinder. If you try and undo this using a hammer and drift to unscrew it you risk damaging the threads which are fine - also be careful when refitting as it's easy to croass thread it when it first goes in, it should be easy to make the first few turns by hand, if not, it's probably crossed. To remover the rear engine bolt a knuckle joint on a socket extension is useful as it's awkward to get at. The only other tool needed is if you are stripping the engine and that's to remove the rapered sleeve for the clutch cush drive and a puller for the ignition flywheel but if Steve is doing the engine you won't need to bother with that

It's just what some people do, the oversize 82mm piston gives about 340cc so someone has made a 350 decal for it. Some do it for the TY250 Yamaha when an oversize 70mm piston is fitted, they have a 270 decal made for it

Someone has just made a 350 sticker up. They were 322cc badged as an RL325, 82mm is an oversize piston

It was the clutch end I was referring to but I got the sizes wrong as I was trying to remember from some bearing sizes I'd scribbled down ages ago, I think I've given the bearing widths. The shaft for the clutch hub on the M80 is 15mm, the larger shaft is 17mm. I thought that was introduced later than '72 but It's years since I rebuilt my model 92 which is an early number from '72 so I forget what's in it so possibly yes, 17mm came immediately with the 91/92 models The Alpina came in 1971 so possibly early numbers had the smaller shaft, I don't know but something to check before buying a Sherpa gearbox

I'm not overly familiar with Alpinas having never owned one, but I think the earlier M97-99 range of frames are more akin to the series 1 M91/92 Sherpa frames, hence the rear facing tensioner and recessed swingarm spindle For a gearbox swap you need to check which mainshaft your M85 engine has, M80 and earlier Sherpas had 13mm diameter where it extends into the clutch with the clutch hub held on a woodruff key. Around 1973/74 the mainshaft was enlarged to 14mm with a splined end and had a larger bearing to take it. The clutch hub was now larger and also splined for the larger mainshaft. This also required a larger ID for the top hat bush behind the hub. As the M85 Alpina ran from 71-74 later number engines could have the larger mainshaft box, I don't know for a fact but just a possibility bearing in mind they went through about three different frame designs, you just need to know which you have as early and later type shafts aren't compatible

28th December is their equivalent of April 1st. The concept isn't a bad idea given some of the absolute rip off prices I've seen for tyres this year

As per the 198 from the original post, they are the same engine. New they come with 112 main and 48 pilot and K44 needle. They run well straight off on these settings so it's just a case of a small tweak on individual bikes to get to how you want it, maybe 50 pilot and drop the needle a notch. Some use JJH needle which is slightly weaker low down, I can't really notice any difference, dropping the K44 seems to achieve the same

The MH200 came with a plastic tank and seat unit, like the MH349, there was no cover with a tank underneath so it sounds as though someone has made a modification. It was the ealrier UK sold bikes with fibreglass tanks that had a seperate tank and cover The original MH tanks aren't affected by modern fuel. If the tank on yours is one of the pit bike type tanks, same as used under some TLR Honda tank covers they are fine with modern fuel

If it helps, for my club I did a rough guide for members on how to renew their membership and licence. This was after playing with screens doing my own and using another rider's account to set his up so I could play a bit more. I can't attach the document but you can find it on my club website home page here https://www.staffordautotrialsclub.com/

Yes, the roll out is poor and the timing not good and it's not easy to use straight off but for various reasons the old site had come to its end and had to be replaced The medical is a questionaire like it was on the old site, you don't need to download the forms for trials unlesss you have specific medical issues. Click on the CURRENT button which brings up the questionnaire and complete the process . It will go to PENDING APPROVAL when done as the ACU have to approve it Club affiliation, your club details should be in there migrated from the old site, to renew 2023 membership click on the CURRENT button and complete the screens. It will go to PENDING APPROVAL until your club official approves it which they'll do from an email prompt, after you've paid membership fee. Then it will return to CURRENT with expiry of 2023. If you use the ADD CLUB / TEAM AFFILIATION it will default to TEAM as you already have club. You don't use this to renew an existing membership Same process for ACU licence and then Membership Details, click on CURRENT button and complete screens. It's the Membership Details category that has the link to renew/checkout and pay licence fee

A club doesn't need to create the new web page/portal in order to allow members to join or renew. This is only needed if the club want members to join with automatic approval as payment is made directly to the club account via Stripe - hence the need to set up a stripe account with the portal. Members still have to go into their profile to complete the club affiliation process Members can renew or join using the Club Affiliation category on their profile but they cannot pay the membership fee directly to the club this way, they have to pay by other means, cash, cheques, bank transfer etc. As Sport80 has no way of knowing whether a fee has been paid, a notification is sent to a club official by email of the request to join, the member will see their club membership status as Pending Approval. The email has Approve or Decline buttons, if the official is satisfied that the club membership fee has been paid they can approve the renewal, the member sees the status change to Current There are four categories a member needs to complete on their profile to renew (for trials at least) Club Affiliation, Medical Questionnaire, ACU Competition Licence, Membership Details (it's this one where you check out and renew which takes you to the payment screen to pay the licence fee) There is no validation that makes you complete all four or complete them in any order, so there are riders who have just completed the ACU Competition Licence category and received their 2023 licence by email, thinking they have a 2023 licence for free. This will become invalid on Jan 1st if the other categories are not complete and payment sent

Can't hel[ with why your Stripe account is pending but that will be why you can't take payments at this time. If you already had a club website, just put a link on it to your club sport80 page that you have just created. If you don't have a club website you can use the web address of the new one and put it in your club details on the Sport80 website as you web address. Members can then just copy and paste that address into their browser and it will open the page with your club membership - but once your stripe issues are resolved be prepared to receive payments with no sender details if you use it.

I think that the Stripe account is through a contract with Sport80 so maybe why it's easier to set up an account, but you need to set it up as an indivifual/sole trader, otherwise more questions may be asked and it becomes more difficult. I got onto Stripe support to see why my payments had no sender details but they said that's how they received them from Sport80. The Stripe transaction fee is also 2.5% plus 20p whereas normally it would be 1.4% plus 20p for UK cards. Stripe told me it's because of the custom plan that Sport80 have with Stripe for this platform - no idea if this is true but that's what he told me. I raised an issue direct with Sport80 support to ask why there are no sender details on the payments - so far unanswered. They also take 4.6% I believe per transaction. I received £4.50 from a £5 membership fee

To access, view or enter 2022 events, they are still processed on the old site and you haver to use this link to get to them. https://www.ride-acu.uk/? No 2022 events will appear on the new site Club members have been able to renew their club membership directly on the sport80 site but the process doesn't seem defined and is erratic. As the site has no record of membership fee payment an email is sent to the club secretary asking them to approve the renewal which they can do if they have received the fee direct from the rider (although that's up to the club whether they approve with or without payment) To renew club membership automatically a club needs to st up the web page portal which has a join club link and a stripe account, when the rider selects join club a payment form appears, rider inputs card details and payment is made to the club stripe account, the rider is transferred to the sport80 site and completes the renewal procedure . This doesn't involve emailing the secretary for approval as there is a record of the stripe payment Problem with this is the stripe payment is received into the club's stripe account, minus fees, with no details of who sent it so there is no way of knowing who has sent the payment. It is also held by stripe for 7 days before they pay into the club bank account. I set all this up on day 1 for my club and received 5 payments from riders but don't know who and was struggling to reconcile them against the membership statuses on my membership list - so I pulled it and am now trying to find out specifically what a rider has to do to renew directly on the sport80 site so that I can issue instructions and ask them to make payment straight to the club by normal bank transfer or paypal Check your email from the ACU as there is a video presentation tonight at 7pm as well as Thursday

If you haven't got a valid 2023 club membership on the new site by 1st Jan, your licence will probably move to a status of invalid on that date

Original Amals and modern Amals are stampled up differently. On yours, the L means left hand which refers to the tickler and usually, the pilot and idle adjuster screws as well, although yours seems to have the tickler on the left and and right side adjuster screws. The 626, 6 means 600 series and 26 the bore, ie: 26mm If you're buying a new replacement, all you need is a 626, decide whether you want left or right hand, state the jet sizes, slide number and specify that it is a 4 stroke carb as the 2-stroke jets and needle differ. The 4 stroke dioesn't use a pilot jet in the base of the carb as there is a pressed in bush behind the pilot adjuster screw instead I'd be certain your carb isn't seviceable before buying new as they aren't cheap any more.

ok, 34 prefix is a MK1 1972/73 so it will have the smaller crankshaft which is normal right hand thread, anti-clockwise to loosen

The Ossa flywheel turns clockwise

No, You need to be sure it is a '72 model which is a MK1 MAR as they are normal r/h thread, From the late 73 models they changed the thread from right hand to left hand. What is the engine number

34 sequence is a MK1 MAR from 72/73 and as Mick mentioned M prefix = motor, B= frame. The MK1 didn't have the number stamped on the frame, just a sticker on the headstock which is usually long gone. From the factory the engine and frame numbers matched so if the engines are original to the bikes, they will date your bikes. The MK1 had plain hubs, flat bottom forks, shorter swingarm with shock mounting right over the snail cam stop

Comerfords made a number of Vesty replicas, most were 340 but as far as I know there were two, maybe three 250 conversions as well. They weren't full replicas of his last 340 but had a longer swingarm with pivot point moved forwards. I can't remember if the top shock mounts were moved on these bikes. If yours has the normal square section swingarm it will be a standard B model

Nowhere in the UK, available from Scooter Assassins in Taiwan from their ebay shop, but no longer the cheap option they were, now almost £100. Anything for sale in the UK for substantially cheaper are copies

On the drive side of the arm is a threaded hole for a grease nipple, it aligns with a hole/slot in the spindle if the spindle is in the corresponding position. Is there a grease nipple fitted that has somehow locked the spindle - or a bolt that has been used to stop the spindle from spinning when undoing the spindle bolts, either of which might stop it being removed. I've never know plastic bushed to grip a spindle to the point it won't drift out. Are they definitely plaastic

Yes, that's what all mine have come with

It will work straight from the box as it comes, 112 main and 48 pilot, asses after trying it, then maybe drop the needle one notch and next size up on the pilot jet if needed Assuming it's a genuine OKO