Neo I searched for data for starting point re jets/needle etc (for OKO 24mm) and just spent 10 minutes composing a nice PM to you asking if you have any?.
Your mailbox must be chocca bloc full, I'm going to try 1) carb as you suggest but prefer to tell the guy what I want. 2) Boyenson Reeds if that gives me little change 3) base gaskets. These three options are exactly in decending order of cost but I have come to conclude that PBHL carb is like several of the bits on my bike a cost compromise by Sherco and they are together cheaper than re "inventing" the exhaust system . Big thanks to all contributions. Just out of interest: I've been comparing our two bikes today, measured and compared every physical dimension including fork rake distances to footrests from bars rear wheel spindle, wheelbase etc etc last check was the bathroon scales which fully dispels any doubts folk have about weight distribution.. The Sherco is exactly the same as the Evo with rider on board, front and back (just the bike) within a kilo etc etc (All this is after/with my top yoke & shims which puts bar mounts 10mm fwd. and 10mm up). 2 degrees shallower rake angle (sherco 68 deg. Evo 66 deg) is only signifigant difference ..if I change that it will shorten wheelbase ( 1 degree reduces trail by c.25mm) , the only way to change this would involve a non reversable cut and shut of the frame in order to retain wheelbase etc so thats not going to happen to my bike although I did read somewhere that A Bert Cabastany was testing frame mods to balance the bike up. ( I take that back ..I could remake top and bottom yokes to steepen fork angle and keep wheelbase and get more lock ..drew it up this am)
I had a bike with a PBHL carb on The carb was junk. Really. The bike was just as you describe. So I fitted a Makuni and WOW was it smooth as. Go with the OKO and enjoy. Ralphy
Hi Trev welcome to trials in NZ. Great looking bike mate. The twin shock class in NZ is very strong so you'll meet some great folks.
I'm sure you have done this but .....check the bar to peg distance on the bike, trail bikes normally have bars too far back and pegs too far forward to be really well balanced for trials. Just a thought.
The four stroke is quieter than the 2t buy quite a lot if you keep the original exhaust system..... and they are surprisingly power full in standard trim.
Simptoms are the same as when you forget to open fuel and before engine dies, you hear "ping, ping.." sound in cylinder.
Yes, I try to raise the needle for a notch, but than mixture was too rich. Engine didn't run smooth..
140 is smaller than 145 and it will be leaner yes Liviob, but I'll try anyway. Maybe is Pilot too small-27,5 I'll put 30 and will see..
Not sure if i have it right here but it could be a knocking noise. Most Beta's do that at a constant throttle. Go back to a 30 pilot and some fresh petrol. I took my Beta head off and polished the top of the piston and the head. It helped but didn't cure it. Just avoid a constant medium throttle up a hill.
Every one above is wrong. Check the condition of your shock. The factories save a lot of money and put on rather average rear shocks on many bikes. Some are ok, others are s***e. Spend some time on the shock and it will transform the traction. Try more rebound damping. Generally a well valved & slower rebound rear shock will get better traction than a soft fast shock.
Check you shock, shock, shock, shock!!!!!!!!
..................... well, ok there is something in the above. But not as much as in the rear shock.
When i met the Burt Monro - worlds fastest indian super guru and world class legend - with my dad he showed us how everything that broke was recycled conrods, pistons the lot!
I watched him cast a piston. Ha, he kept his favorite piston and kept recycling it!
What a dumb thing to say...... Steam trains use less diesel than a diesel train. There, see i can do it too. The bike has shocks on it, it will be competing against shocked bikes.
.... don't compare different rider on different bikes and say how remarkable bla bla bla....... the difference between shocks that are great and average ones is HUGE. Get shocks that work and are great.
What would be the best bang for the buck? I have a ty250A It has about 40% Michelin x11 trials tires and stock shocks. Would I be better off with new Betors or comparable shocks or a new set of sticky Michelins or IRC'S.I ride mostly rock.
Shocks Shocks Shocks ........ Without good shocks you'll get no traction with good or bad tyres!!!
Top wheel builders would hate you suggesting this. Specially the bicycle guys. They generally have a very special powder which acts like a thread locker to stop the spokes loosening.
Ring Lampkins in UK. I did and they gave me some good tips on setting things up. Such as open the idle mixture screw to stop it stalling (get a Jitse mixture screw for the carb) and i raised the needle as far as it would go - the bike is sent from the factory lean to pass emissions testing.
Bought a 08 rev 4. Pick it up saturday. Will keep you posted as to how it all goes. Very excited !!! Also have any of you guys had trouble with the kickstart rubbing the frame. The guy who I have bought it off said that he had to file down the kickstart to make it a good fit. This is despite it being a modified kickstart which beta supplied. Any other things i need to be carefull with ?
Gareth
This means the kick start has not had the factory upgrade. Your frame will be fine (mine has the marks and no issues) but you kick start is likely to fail at the knuckle. Get the kit and remove the RHS engine cover. Not a big job but you'll have to remove the clutch basket with and air impact wrench.
Set the suspension to 1/3 sag when you stand on the bike. Be very!!!!!! accurate with this setting.
Do the clutch mod as at the top of the Beta Forum
Do the hot start jet mod as in the top of the beta forum
Fit a quality kill button and put the Beta unit in the bin.
Adjust the valves buy rocking the engine forward around the swing arm pivot (i think)..... leave the radiator connected to the engine.
Lube the swing arm and steering head bearings. Change the fork oils. Rear shock has a rebound adjuster at the top of the shock - if this has no effect on rebound speed you need a shock rebuild
Finally...... Raise the needle all the way. Right to the top (clip at the bottom). Now get a Jitse fuel screw for setting the mixture (approx 2.5-3 turns out)
There will be a huge difference to what you ride. There will be a lot less power. The bike will be a lot lighter to handle. Go and test ride one - they are good.
Smoothing it our
in Sherco
Posted
I had a bike with a PBHL carb on The carb was junk. Really. The bike was just as you describe. So I fitted a Makuni and WOW was it smooth as. Go with the OKO and enjoy. Ralphy