nzralphy

the needle could be loose or the carb manifold could have a leak??????

When we had a speedo, 20 years back at the SSDT we regularly got 105 and 110kph on the road sections.... at that speed i had rear tyre knobs flung at me from my mate i was drafting...painful!.... his Michelin X1 obviously didn't like that speed!

Take the spring out and have someone press down on the rod inside the fork.

Sounds like jetting to me. If it is flat/no power when reving and a "Fwwwwwwwwaaaaaaap" sound is often running lean - so raise the needle and/or larger main jet. Try raising the needle all the way (lower the clip) and see if it runs rich and gets a 'four stroking' feeling.

Cos we are cheap. Lots of us use ATF or regular gear oil and change it often, rather than buy an uber expensive gear box oil..... that are better and last longer. Remember that our bikes only make about 15hp.

Very first thing to do is set the sag at both ends. 1/3 sag when you are stood on the bike. Do this befor messing with damping. Do not adjust once it is set. if you have to put lots of turns onto a spring to get the sag set correctly - you will need a stiffer spring. .........then mess with damping..... 1/3 when stood on the bike.

What weird vehicles, people appear to be gyrating all over the place, there is no speed, there are no spectators. How ridiculous. Just like our sport ;o)

I'd check the exposed electrical system - connections / kill button / plug cap / coil etc - for propper waterproofness (is that a word?) first. Ralph

After reading and further thought.... The SSDT has a double gloss of both being the worlds best trial in a wonderful town. Taking it out of the town will diminish one of the strong draw cards for international travelers (or anyone actually). I was attracted to FW to do the SSDT 20yrs back and am tempted to enter again in the coming years, but not if you move it out of town. Sorry but it will be a pain in the a*** even though the proposed location is only 6 miles away. Have you considered anywhere else in town or a temporary structure?

It would be a good move but consider presentation.... if the drive / parking / buildings look a bit naff it could lower the tone of the trial to a large club trial. Get them to invest in the area.

DON"T let it rub the shock..... there is approx 250psi in the shock and it needs the alloy body to keep it in! Put the extra half a link in until you chain stretches. I never noticed that it made my suspension stiffer and actually it should make it softer with the longer leaverage ratio.

Oh Graham fit a side stand and you won't break your bike.... two fives 19 years ago is a looooong time ago.... get over it ;o) Any way it looks vulnerable only because everything thing else has been made so small and moved more central. So once where there was a frame (such as a rev3montshercogasscorpa) there is now fresh air and it looks vulnerable. Caps are normally at the top and there is nowhere to put a flush cap. Perhaps a remote header tank would fix it and maybe make our neanderthal-no-expansion cooling systems more robust. Ralphy

Yeah man.... tyres do explode... please make sure you have ear defenders and safety glasses on. These two things take about 20 seconds to find and wear... not long really eh.

I had a 4T with a leaking head gasket. While it was apart - for the replacement gasket - i polished the head / piston / valves, I cleaned up the casting marks on the inlet ports, and I lightly cut the valve seats with grinding paste. It made a little difference to the power in midrange. The bike runs really well, but it took a while to do it really well. Use locktite 515 flange sealant on all faces and both sides of all gaskets to ensure no oil or water leaks. Have you got a workshop manual and torque wrench of the head nuts? .... the biggest challange was trying to work out how too remove the cam chain idler sprocket. SOB of a thing! Ralphy

Eh'up. No spoke torque wrench here. Iv'e built a heap of bicycle wheels and quite a few motorcycle wheels. They were all highly regarded, no issues, and each one was built with dial gauge accuracy and only a 'pinged' spike for tone as my gauge. Once i used a Park Tools spoke tension gauge which showed me i very slightly over tensioned a wheel. Tap your motorcycle spokes with a spanner and listen for the 'ring' (make sure two crossing spokes aren't touching). each spoke should make exactly the same sound - note that different sides of a wheel may/will have a different tone as spokes are often different lengths for rim off-set.

Dam that is real bad luck. It is a huge risk we take with our trials bikes and their Neanderthal cooling systems. Fingers crossed that you are wrong and is all springs happily to life. But it won't. Think positive about a new piston and rings or a 300cc upgrade.

First measure the sag at both ends. Get a helper. Adjust springs so there is 1/3 sag when you stand on the bike (50 front, 55mm rear is about right). The front fork has a spring preloader on the LHS (large red adjuster) and the rear spring has two (one locking) collours. Now adjust damping to prefered feel with the rebound adjusters at the front and rear (RHS fork, top of the rear shock). Not so soft everything is all bouncy, and not so slow that everything is, well, slow. Mess with these setting to find your prefered ride. FWIW.....Both front and rear damping systems need regular servicing.

Hi and welcome The betas do have high compression (hence their need for high octane gas) and it is normal to be hard to kick over. you will get used to it. If you want a more docile bike i'd suggest you lower the compression by putting 2 or 3 base gaskets under the barrel. Killing an engine going down hill is easily done with a small touch of rear brake.... or perhaps your bike hasn't had some of the carburetor mods done as suggested in the 'Beta Forum'. Ralphy

Oil won't go white from drawing water out of the air when it isn't used. No chance. As above for water pump oil seal could be faulty. If the bike was stood in a stream it can draw oil up the engine breather tube if it is hanging low (and in the same water). .... this is a good reason to have the breather tube go up toward the head stock.

Was there a full moon about at the time?

If you do it will make the bike noisier.

It still has the stupid Beta kill button so they can't be finished messing with it........

Flipp'n eck don't undo the cap! Bugger! Nothing in my books on how far to screw it in. I'd screw it in till it stops, back it off a bit and lock the nut.... then try it.

Sounds like the timing is out so suggest it is electronic fault. There is a slim chance you have a blocked idle jet, or faulty hot start button?

Practice lots, even spending hours riding on your driveway will pay huge dividends. Get a copy of the ryan young trials training DVD and watch it lots. Mark there are many ways to ride a trials bike and many may be wrong for you. take all the advise you can get but be warned it will only be another person's preference. I would NEVER do what Pete suggests - follow the bars with your shoulders as it makes me swing my butt out rather than being centered over the bike - but that is just me.