nzralphy

Green is Go. You are good to go...the bike is helping him... "Take of now you fool!"

Yeah i got a tip for ya.... tidy your workshop )

I'd call it a 3 if his foot dragged.... and it would be a 1 of he had pivotted arond a statonary toe. Tough sh*t if he still thought it was a 1 - cheaky monkey.

Without a rider the bike should sag a little - 5mm is good. You can turn up spring tension only so far, too much and you are asking a light spring to do too much work...if you are heavy build you'll likely need a heavier rear spring With a rider the bike should sag eavenly. Both ends sould sag between 25-33% of available travel. As a guide ..... 25% if you like a lively suspension action, 33% if you prefer a more planted/dead feel to the bike.

It sounds like the bike is flooding with fuel. At a guess I would say either the float height is incorrect (this site has some info in setting Beta carbs), or the floats are sinking because they have fuel inside the chambers, or the carb needs a clean to get dirt out of it. I would also check the fuel tank is clean buy removing the tap and washing it through. And check your fuel filter is in good order. Ralph

Hi Guys The 4T has started to get a slight hesitation off idle. Cos i have been messing with it.... whoops. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/style_...icons/icon9.gif I'd love to check float height but don't know if floats should be parallel to bowl joining face. Please help. Thanks. I have been told that the bikes come with a disk with a maintenance manual. I don't have it. Can it be downloaded or can anyone send me a copy?

2500 for a TLR200... i could lay my hands on perhaps 4 of those for NZ$800-1000 each .... hummmmm i could make some pocket money here. Anyone want a cheep honda 200?

Ah.... the old 4T bikes went on an on didn't they. Ask a modern 4T MXer how his maintenace schedule has gone up considerably compared to a 2T! The big change has been the shape of pistons. 4T pistons have got very low profile and small so that the engines are both shorter and rev a lot higher (bringing more Hp). In doing this the piston has a tendency to tip or wobble in the bore knackering the piston and rings. Luckily none of the 4T trials bikes have the delicate/fragile titanium valve - many of which need replacement after xx hours of racing!

Valves have to be adjusted every 60hr (ish). To do this you need to rock the engine forward on the bottom engine mounting to get to the valves..... put aside 2-3hr for the job. Engine Oil is every 10hr (there is no separate gearbox oil). Pistons & plugs are about the same life as a 2T. That is about it really. Ralph

Hi and welcome to the group. Nice bike. I remember idolizing MA and his Ossa... it got me into trials. I got my Carb tuning book out and it had limited info compared to Googling the question. Try... http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/printcarbtuning.html or http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm From these charts i'd think you should be running 8-9% larger jets - assuming it was correctly jetted for altitude.... But there is enough info at these pages for tuning it correctly anyway. Ralph

I have just got off an 07 Rev3 270 Beta and onto an 08 Rev4T 250cc. I'm more than happy with it. I think the Beta is very well made and finished. No issues and is reliable. It is a hell of a lot cheeper than the mont perhaps the fuel injection is worth something but i have found the Carb on the Beta just fine. It is simple to work on but you do have to tilt the engine forward to get to the valves. To be honest i noticed the extra 3kg right away... but after 30minutes riding i couldn't feel the extra weight. The Beta starts and runs fine, but there is a technique to it (read the manual!!!!!!) where as the 2T just has to be kicked any old how. The Beta is WAY quieter the the Mont so much so i can't beleave it. As i say i had the 2T 270cc and loved the power up the big climbs. Gosh it had some go. It also used to get me a lot of wheel spin and subsequent dabs. The i got onto the 250 and was packing myself that it didn't have enough go.... well it is fine. Yeah you can feel it doesn't have so much torque in the mid range, howeveer it gets up all the same hills the other bike did with a strong top end rev. The 4T likes to be reved on the climbs. I have tried my 41t sprocket and it was too fast so am back to the 42t. The bike is brilliant in the rocks and technical riding - the pop pop pop is way more precice compaired to the ring a ding a ding ding ding ding of the 2T. Would recomend a Jitsei (sp?) mixture screw to help find best idle speed, fit a long shock mud flap, and i have fitted a Domino (fast-white) throttle as it is a bit slower than the standard. Buy the Beta EVO 4T to get a great bike at a good price. ... and the rear shock is in the right place. Ralph

Ok they are quite funny. It is all to do with a keeping your body (torso) vertical - like a tree (a tall slender one of course). Don't drop your shoulder - if you do you won't be like a tree.

I'd be in and help if it was set up. Does anyone have a Beta Rev4T workshop manual?

Been there. The jetting is fine, you have cracked your reeds. Ralph

rlracer. I'll go to the auto store and get some of the heat shield. Good tip as the 4 banger runs quite hot. The throttle is Domino, quick=white, that i had lying around and thought i would give it a try because i thought the standard throttle was too quick and made the bike a little clumsy. It works out at 5/16th of a turn. Real nice and i love the action now. I'll chase down an extended mixture screw. A well tuned bike, and most of mine are/were, will have plugs that last over a year no problem. So i'll ignore this advise.....every three trials.... my a***. Iridium plugs give a stronger fatter spark that makes a bike start easier and have a more reliable idle - good for trials. Ralph

Hi All. I have just picked up a second hand Beta Rev4T 250cc. It is standard. I have adjusted the tappets (0.10 & 0.15mm), replaced wheel bearings, cut away the middle seat support (the stupid one that blocks the air flow), removed the light, removed the Beta kill / light switch, modified the hot start to 2mm hole, put on a std trials throttle (white), i still have to get an NGK Iridium plug. How do you adjust the cam chain tension? What is the preferred mixture setting (Lampkin SSDT suggests 4 turns out) for the bike? Does any one have any other little tweaks? Of the Beta parts available (exhaust, cam, ignition) what made the most improvement to the bike? Thanks, Ralphy

Well that was easy. A little too easy to be honest. It was so soft/easy..... and thus i think i have found the reason Beta have gone back to a central shock on the Evo. It ain't strong! It bent because the last owner ran the bike with a stuffed shock. We did not remove the swing arm. Removed the wheel and clamped the bike to an immovable steel beam across the bottom of the foot pegs. Using a 1.8m piece of 100x50 timber and approx 1/2 my body weight, we tweaked it back to perfectly square. Done.

Oh gawd.... you have only asked perhaps the hardest question in trials. What gear to use comes down to intuition. Intuition is the application of skill and knowledge. Practice will get you intuition. Lots of practice. The previous posts are correct when you are learning. Read these and go practice, for months or years. BUT.... when you are learned....... NEVER ask others what gear to use. Use your intuition. Asking other riders will guarantee to further confuse you. Do not ask as they are different riders on different bikes. Go with your very first gut feel.

Hi All Has anyone ever twisted their alloy (Beta Rev3 not that this matters) swing arm. We have one that makes the rear wheel cant over to the RHS at the top. Quite a lot - perhaps 30mm. The bike frame looks good. I was figuring on cold setting by either; removing the wheels and swing arm hard wear, clamp the bike - on it's bash plate - to the large steel workshop welders table, slip two large (lets call them huge) pieces of tube up the legs, and heave one up while one is heaved down..... or remove the swing arm and clamp the pivot end to the same table and use the same process. Any thoughts or preferences?

Gosh. Tough to answer. World champions have been made through 2t and 4t bikes. I'd say you should start out on a lower powered bike - a 125 or 200 2t or a soft tuned 4t

As a 10/11/12yr old delivering news papers i used to hang-out at the local small honda dealership - they imported the Ossa's and had a MA special that i used to sit on for weeks. They gave ma brochure and i was hooked. I found a couple of books in the local store - I read them for years. Finally dad an i went halfs in a new TLR200 when i was 18. Dad didn't enjoy it so i brought his half after 6 mths. Actually i don't remember paying for it. Thanks Dad. I got in touch with the local Ixion club (see it on the web). For me it took off. I loved it so much. i road all the time. I eventually got a TLR250, then TLM220, Fantic 243, 245, 240 pro (I needed the cash), 245, Techno, and now the Rev3. I have competed in the SSDT in '88, 89 & 90 with a few Kiwi mates. Can't get enough of it.... I can turn a fast time at the 6hr H&H race and am quick on a road bike.... but to be honest i love my 'Trials fix" in my own land Ralph

Hi The slime product DOES NOT work. I tried this first. I run tubeless MTB tyres with amazing results so i thought i'd try the MTB sealant. It worked. Note that it doesn't last for ever so you have to 'top it up in 6mths time. Ralph

I agree that fixing it properly is best. First thing...... i'd find yourself a new bike shop. 15 quid to help you each time is taking the p*ss Second... get down to the local bicycle shop and ask for a bottle of tyre sealant (Stans is one brand) which are mostly - 1 part liquid latex rubber to one part water. Squirt in 150-200ml through the valve hole with a pointy nozzle bottle (remove the valve core first). Ride your bike and the leaking will stop the next day. Happy me with this trick. Ralphy

Ummmm p*** coloured rims....

Better gas will stop a lot of beta knocking. #27.5 pilot jet and needle second notch from top makes it run smooth. Check the air screw is adjusted for best idle speed for the day (approx 1.5-2 turns out). Check carb connections and gaskets for air leaks Always run a clean and properly oiled air filter. AND then put up with what is left. Ralph