jandyb

Jon You mean one or two springs pr fork I hope? Theese forks had one spring in each fork. The internal cartridges looked very similar, but one had more and bigger holes in the cartridge than the other. Also it seemed like the "nut" in the bottom for the allen bolt was loose on one fork and was set on the other. Cant rememer witch was what now. -Jan

What I found was that it was very easy to loosen the allen bolt in the bottom and withdraw all the internals. All internals stick together no problem, and reassembly was no problem. Then it was peace of cake to remove all old oil and to clean out both cartridges and inside the tubes. The cleaning was absolutely necesarry because of all the paint particles from the spring. Next time there will not be so much paint because now almost all the paint are off the springs... After this when I knew the forks were completly empty it should be easy to just add the right amount of oil without having to measure the lenght from the top. Problem is that I am still not sure that the amounts are correct (130cc right and 230cc left), but the forks seems to work OK now so it may be right. My conclusion is that "my way" is much easyer than removing the top cap and spring. -Jan

GasGas spesifications for spark plug gap is 0,9 mm. I never touch it and never have had problems. (Hmm.. maybe I should touch it..) A quick very "non scientific" carb adjusting school: On the carb you have two screws. To the left are fuel/air mixture and to the right are idle screw. Fuel/air mixture gets richer when turn outwards. Idle get higher when turned inwards. Adjust the idle so that you have a litle higher idle than you would like. Then adjust the air/fuel mixture so that the idle speed is at the highest. Usally between 2 to 3 turns from bottom. Play by ear. Then try out the throttle response and adjust if you think the responce is slow. Last You set the idle like you want to. Often the clutch is dragging a bit, so set the idle speed with clutch in and in 1`st gear Hope this helps ' -Jan

Finally got the cap off the left leg, but I really dont think this is the right way to fill oil on theese type of forks? When I got the cap off I of course could remove the spring, but then the internal rod disappeared to the bottom of the fork. Only way to get it up again was to turn the fork up side down, and then it was a heck to get the cap on again. I think i will try to use the amounts thats stated earlier. I know now that the forks are absolutely empty so if the amounts are right it cant be wrong.. -Jan

Hmm.. Think I will need detailed info on how to get the caps off. I have tried with no luck. Dont want to destroy anything you know... -Jan

I hope that joke was not on me?? So why have they put the arrow there? Wanting to sell more tyres? Forgot to remove it (reusing some other tyre making tools)? Any other reason? -Jan

Hi again The one who is curious get to know a lot... I noticed ther is a rotation arrow on the Michelin X11 tyres. I`d like to turn one tyre the other way, but that may not be so smart?? -Jan

Jippeeee!! Went "trialing" with the 300 for about three hours yesterday, and all seems good now What a relief after all this struggeling.. -Jan

Thanks That was what I thought. Nice to have it confirmed.. -Jan

Hi Bike: 2006 TXT Pro 125 Racing with 40mm Marzocchi alu forks. Yes I have read the document here http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html but there it says: 1. Disassemble the superior cap of each suspension leg. ...ok no problem. 2. Remove the spring. ..ehh now it becomes difficult. I cant find a way to remove the spring. Ok so I loosen the allen bolt at the bottom and withdraw all the "stuff" inside. Out comes -surprisingly easy - everything inside and also surprisingly it sticks together with no loose parts - spring and all. Ok so the tubes are loose and let me clean them out. Something that was very needed as "someone" had painted the springs with a kind of paint that dont withstand oil. Result is that the bottom of the tubes were full of red paint particles. Why paint the springs anyway?? Cleaned out and got it together again no problem. But how much oil to put in. The "measure level" method wont work as the springs are not out, but now I know the tubes are absolutely empty. The document says 230cc left and 130cc right, but can I trust this as the other things dont work? -Jan

Thanks Crasher and Mikee No one of You mentions anything about if my 2002 cylinder/piston is a direct fit on the 2006 engine, so I assume this is OK then? I have not decidet what I do yet. The 06 125 (becoming 200?) is incredible light and easy to ride, but my 04 300 has an awesome power... I think I have do the 125 to 200 conversion and have a direct comparing session this weekend. -Jan

Hi GasGAs community. I have heard only difference between 125 and 200 is cylinder and piston. Can anyone confirm that? I`ve got a 2002 TXT Pro 200 engine with a crack in the casing lying around. Thought I should use the 200 cylinder and piston on my sons 2006 125 and use it for myself. The cylinder is not mint condition, but doesnt look too bad. What about jets? Should I use a bigger main jet? Thanks -Jan

Thanks I wasnt very sure that it was OK. The seals looked aukwardly "squeezed" where they sat, but as I didnt manage to get them further in and it was equal on both sides I gave it a try. Got it together on thursday evening, but as lucky as I am I managed to destroy the clutch cover gasket, and also the vater pump seal had given in after all this messing around so first there was plenty of water in the gearbox and next a pool of water contaminated gear oil under the bike... :-) Lucky the norwegian GasGas importer are only 30 km away, so friday evening I had theese parts in hand. I havent got time to try it out so much exept some rounds in my garden and a good hour in the woods yesterday. As theres still a lot of oil in the exhaust system its still dripping oil, and when it becomes hot theres also some smoke, I dont dare thinking that it is OK yet - last time it lasted for two hours - but I must say I am quite optimistic. Again I must thank the forum for all help. This time specially PeterB, but the thanks goes to everyone. I can assure You that it wont be long before my next question comes along. I have some more projects going on... Happy trailing and happy summer! -Jan

No such luck for me. Even with bearings straight from freezer and heated housing they were a pain to get in. No "drop in" here.. Even though the crank isnt that tight into the bearings at least the right hand side needs a lot of force. I didnt meen he bearings out of housing. Thats OK the outer bearing ring is about one mm inside housing, and the inner bearing ring is abou even with housing. What I meant was the seals that goes into the bearing. I am not sure I got them far enough intor the bearing. Now they are about even with the inner bearing ring. No! I dont want to find out "soon enough". This time I want to be 110% sure everything is OK before I get it together... -Jan

Report: Finally got the sleeves off. Using a visegrip and heating the sleeve and chill the crank. There should be a special tool for this? After having a break borrowing my sons 125 and playing around a bit I have now driven in the new bearings. Ensured that the drain hole LHS is open and also driven in the seals in the bearings. A little concerned that I havent got them far enough in. Are they supposed to go a little bit outside the outer bearing? About a millimeter or so? Put the crank in the freezer hoping that it will drop nicely in tomorrrow. Again I must say that this looks like a much better solution than the old bearings and seals. This cannot leak! At least not when things are new. If the bike is still smoking now I will find the deepest lake nearby and drop it in the middle! hehe... -Jan

Hi Peter Seems like You just confirmed what I was thinking. Dropped by at GasGas today and brought home a set of the new type bearings and seals. It seems like a much better solution than the old type. Crank part number and case part numbers are the same. Now I am positive this will work! Only thing is the sleeves or bushings at the crank have to come off. I was thinking they didnt have to, but of course they do. Any tip how to get them off? Ahh.. one more question: Which way should the seals go into the bearing? Closed side in or the open side in? Open side in seems the most natural, but one never know... Just some food first now and Im starting on the fifth teardown. I`m getting good at this now. Last time was one hour and fifteen minutes from complete bike to engine in atoms... Wish me luck! -Jan

Dam*** I was hoping for a solution.. Studying more parts manual I think I can answer myself, but with a new questione... The 06 has a complete different solution. First the bearings are sealed so there is no seals in addition. Then there is no need for the bushings either. Question is: Can I remove the bushings, and use the 06 bearings on the 04? -Jan

It wont run long enough (or I wont let it) to see any difference in oil level but I dont think there could be an other source. In fuel I run 1,5% Ipone (Goes like s h i t, smells like strawberry) and I can assure You that it dont smell any strawberry.. -Jan

Studying the parts manuals I found that the crank bearings have different parts number from 2004 to 2006. In 2004 the type is "6205 ETN9" part number M01216002/2 while in 2006 the type is "ST5225" part number MT280412006 What is the difference between the two? I see that in the 06 theres additional O-rings on the right side. Could it be that I have got the wrong bearings or maybe if I use the 2006 bearings I have to use the O-rings also? -Jan

Nonono... The bike is smoking like an old steamtrain. One round on the field makes it almost impossible to se past it. I am taking the fact that lots of oil "pouring" (I am Norwegian - I dont always find the right words) from the exhaust and the fact that no coolant made any difference for evidence that it really is gear oil burning. -Jan

Thanks guys for helping me out. 1. Water? As I said it is "pouring" oil from the silencer joint so I am pretty sure it is gear oil. I have though changed top O-rings for new and tried to run it without any coolant (for a very short time of course) without any better result. 2. Gasket: I have been using new gasket every time (I have actually emptyed the stock at the norwegian importer) and always checked how it looks. The joint in the area where it could be possible to leak oil is very even and seemless. This is not the problem I think. 3. The washer you are talking about is it not a whole circle. (part nr 20 in the crankcase picture in the parts manual) There is a washer like this between the left bearing and seal. I was thinking the "hole in the circle" was there to allow oil to drain from the bearing back in the gearbox so I made sure the hole was pointing towards the drail hole in the casing. This could maybe be an issue? 4. The bushings that the seals are sealing against have an O-ring inside. I havent touched this becaus I didnt think it was possible to leak oil on the inside of the bushing. Could this possibly be the fault? -Jan

Yes unlikely, but it could be true.. I dont know if I believe in it, but i`ll give it a try before next teardown anyway. Must say that it is not only burning a little oil. After 10 min driving it hardly ignite, and there is a pool of oil coming out of my exhaust leak (wich does not have priority just now. Maybe later..) -Jan

Hi Its me again. Just got the engine together for the 4`th time, and it is still burning gear oil. The third time i was able to drive about two hours before it began smoking but this time it was straight away. I can not understand why it does this. Everything is looking 100% right. There is new bearings and new seals, and of course new middle gasket every time. I have had experienced mechanics both GasGas and other brand specialists confirming that it looks OK. Lets say i pull it all apart again. Out with everything. Bearings, seals and all. Can someone please go through the mounting prosedure step by step for me, explaining what part and how You install it. Maybe there is something I have overlooked. And Yes its (still) my 04 300 Pro. Thanks! -Jan

Good! I must mention that although new clutch fibres solves the problem it doesnt solve the cause. You may want to check the water pump axle for wear. Thats the cause for leaking water into the gear oil. And likewise maybe change the seals in the clutch slave sylinder to avoid brake fluid leak. These two factors are those who destroy the clutch. Cheers -Jan

Actually worn plates makes finger height higher Swollen plates makes finger height lower anc clutch action heavier. I guess your clutch fibres was just swollen and destroyed. -Jan