jandyb

May seem like a silly question, but I have experienced this my self... Is the choke fully off?? The choke lever on my old TXT 270 had the habit of getting stuck half way down. By the way. Do You have a TXT Pro or a TXT "Edition"? Not that it matters.. -Jan

Yes... Sorry if my reply seem a little.. ehh You know.. That was not the intention -Jan

Clutch pack thickness should be +/- 9,75 mm. This thickness diectly affect the finger height. 0,1mm difference in thickness makes 2mm difference on finger height wich should be +/- 17,1 mm. But as the clutch pack in this case is new this should not be any issue. Although it looks scary the first time you disassemble the clutch it really is quite simple. You cant go wrong.. Only thing is that at some point (between 05 and 06?) the fibre and steel plates changed from three equal fibres and two steel plates at ca 1,5mm to one thicker fibre, two thinner and two ca 2mm steelplates. Yet total 9,75 mm. On the later model with one thicker fibre the thickest must go in first. It is possible to see/feel the different thickness of the fibres, but if you are unsure it is easily measured with a proper measuring tool. Must mention that when taking the cluth cover off the thin washer on the kick axle always (?) stick to the cluth cover, and if you dont notice this it usually disappear..

I think the answer for that q is already mentioned in this topic? NGK BPR5ES. -Jan

Hey! All dogs round here barks in Norwegian..!!??

1999 was the last year with the 270. But you are right about the overlapping. The only "legal" explanation could be that this IS a 2002 TXT 250/280 Edition equipped with a 98 tank. Hard to say if the saddle is one piece or two. If it is two then it is possible that this is a 2002... -Jan

Hehe.. You are right. And it got an electric starter too..

No - this is the reason for changing to hydraulic mineral oil in 2005. -Jan

Hello If you have a 02 (username 280pro02??): Use DOT 4 brake fluid. (You can use DOT 5, but before that you have to clean the whole system because DOT 4 and DOT 5 is not compatible.) Yes - it goes in the reservoir :-) Beware that GasGas changed clutch fluid from brake fluid to hydraulic mineral oil in 2005. Some older bikes can have been rebuildt to this system. -Jan

Take a look here: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html Think You will find what You need... -Jan

New question: The two O-rings mentioned before is in the part list for 2004. In the part list for 2008 there is another two O-rings with measurment 49x1,5 mm. Can, should or should I not use those in my 2004 model? -Jan

I have been doing some research on this.. The "bolt head" on the right fork is supposed to adjust the spring preload. Testing both the hard and soft ettings I could not notice some change anyway, but the thought is good... To remove the cap one need a special "pin tool", but I think I will figure out some way to manage without... My dealer recommended that when the forks are off the bike and opened I should take them all apart (not the insert though) to ensure that the stiffness is not due to dirt. -Jan

Hello again.. Finally I have managed to get some parts for this job. I have got one small seal, two larger ones and the center gasket. I addition there should be (two?) O-rings that he still hasn`t got from GasGas. Could this be the ones with part number MT280212025? In the part list the measurement of these O-rings say 25x1,5mm. If I manage to find O-rings with these measures in other places can I use them? Last the videos are very spesific on how to disassemble and assemble the engine, but they don`t say anything about the crank. Am I missing a part of the videos, or is it because the crank bit is so straight forward that it is not neceserry to show? I`d also like to put in a language question in this posting too: I have noticed that some of You use "motor" and others use "engine". How come? Thanks -Jan

I`m in the questioning mood these days.. Hope that any of You "gurus" can answer.. The front suspension on my sons 06 125 pro Racing feels a bit stiff. Much stiffer than my 04 300 even when the adjustment is at softest setting on both forks Since I don`t think the fork oil is ever changed I thought I would go for some fresh oil. I`m not sure if new oil would make it softer, but it would definately not hurt. First thing I did was to go for the oil draining skrew at the bottom of the forks. Surprisingly they was not there. I guess You have to take it out and turn it up side down to pour out the old oil? OK.. second i was about to remove the top cap on the forks. Surprised again I found that the 17mm "bolt head" on the right fork was turning like it is supposed to adjust something. In that case what? The spring maybe? If so why not on the left fork also? And last why doesn`t the manual say anything about this? Still if the "bolt head" is some kind of adjuster how do I get the top cap off? Special tool? On the left fork the "bolt head" and the top cap is one. Can I use the 17mm to loosen the top cap here? Heres a cut out of the manual from 08. It is similar to both 06 and 07. It shows 2 different fork types. The one on the left is similar to the forks on my 04 300 and the ones to the right is like the ones on the 06 125. I guess the one to the left has not been used since 2005. What the h**** does this picture do in a 08 manual anyway? -Jan

You are right. Just did the ohm meter trick and found that the "sun" setting connects the cables. Soo.. I had to remove the tank ...again This is a 125ccm and I don`t think that lowering the power ever will be useful. Could have been something on my 300 though... -Jan

Haha.. Could have been useful Seriously.. the switch has an rain and a sun symbol on it. What it does is to change the ignition point witch affect the power on the engine.

Ahh... smart! -Jan

I finally gat to remove the sun/rain switch. Or ignition mapping switch if you like.. As far as I know it has never been used and it is only a possible cause for failure. Question is if the connections that is left under the tank should be together or apart to get full effect? Thanks -Jan

Thanks Ed. I guess that helped me! But it`s too late totake pictures. Funny enough I thought about it when I worked that I should have taken some pictures... but I didn`t. This isn`t wery difficult anyway so dont be afraid to get to it. Lots of other posts on this forum that describes the prosedure also. The finger height was not very low. I measured about 16,5 mm. That is about 0,05 mm too thick clutch pack. But I did take it a part anyway and rubbed the fibres carefully with 600 paper on a glass table. And it worked! After reassemble the finger height was encreased to about 18mm. Guess if my kid was pleased when the light pull was back??! As this is the first time into the 06 engine I noticed a difference from the other pro`s i have been into. First the steel plates was thicker - about 2 mm. The others were about 1,5mm - and there was two thin fibre plates and one thicker. I remember reading somewhere that the thickest fibre plate should go in first. Did that and it worked fine. Another thing I was a bit concerned about was that it came some water out of the water pump when taking it out. Is this normal? Didn`t seem to leak when I inspected it. -Jan

Thanks Peter... or not You are probably right. I was hoping there was an other easyer/cheaper explanation that I had overlooked. I hate to do stunts like this the day before a happening, but I guess I have to. He is almost refusing to go if I don`t fix it. Of course for a 13 year old lad it is very difficult to suddenly adjust to a bike with a completly different behaviour like this is.. -Jan... Out in the garage...

Hello My sons 2006 125 pro racing has always had a perfect clutch. Light pull and with a smooth but precise action. Perfect! Yesterday at training the pull had become very hard. What can be the reason for this? Some facts: About five weeks ago the bike was drowned and there was a lot of water in the gearbox. Oil was changed as soon as possible about one hour later. Have been just fine after that. Have loosened the clutch lever so that the release valve is working. No effect. My son almost started crying when this happned. There is an important competition saturday coming. Thanks for any help! -Jan

Surprisingly You are right. They didn`t use the same frame on 125/200 and 250/280. Check this Swedish site: http://www.fmcp.e.se/historik/index.htm It is not easy to see this because of the plastic cover, but the construction near the head is diferent. An other difference from 02 and the newer ones is the oil capacity. The 02`s take about 0,3 liter when the newer ones take about 0,5 liters. Did they change this because of bad lubrication or maybe cooling? -Jan

I have had two 02`s. One 125 that was sold august last year and a 200 that still is in my garage - at least parts of it. The rest of the parts are "spread for all winds"... I notice that your bike Jon has got a different frame and airbox than my two 02`s. Have You change those, or did GasGas change this during the year? -Jan

Thanks Peter I think I understand what You mean, but I don`t think tis is the issue this time. As I said the gear lever is operating normally except when in first gear when it is possible to push it down like if there was another gear downwards. I had a gearbox open last year and remember that I studied how this works then, but I cant remember what it is that stops the lever from going down when in first gear. After a study of the exploded view in the part list I come to two possibilities: Either the "pins" on the gear forks that is following the guides on the gear drum or the two "ratchet rollers" inside the gear drum? As I also said is the gearbox functioning normal except from this issue. The fault was there even when we bought the bike about a year ago and has not got worse so it is probably nothing to worry about. The bike is driven by my brothers daughter - hmm.. my niese - and as she have never driven other bikes she does not complain. It is just irritating when others are riding it..