jandyb

Hi My brothers 06 125 Pro has a "problem" with the gear shifter. When in 1`st the shifter is supposed to stop but it is still possible to press it downwards. How is that possible? He has tried to adjust the shift shaft center locator under the clutch basket, but it did not help. Other than that this problem is irritating the gears are functioning quite OK. No problem shifting any gears. Thanks for any help. -Jan

Hi This is probably caused by dirt and/or water in the carburator. I think You will find it necesarry to clean the carb quite often.. -Jan

Haha Jon .. I`m flattered... but somehow I get the feeling that You know all this. Although I maybe sometimes see things from a different angle.. If someone needs help on a norwegian issue though... -Jan

One more thing to mention in this case is that You don`t really have to remove the clutch basket to change the clutch shims. They can easily be changed with the basket in place in the clutch house. This does of course not solve the problem with the center bolt, but if he is lucky - really lucky - he may not ever have to remove it... -Jan

Quite right Jon. This language thing again.. -Jan

Hi A "thumbrule" here is that You should be able to put the thumb between the chain tensioner and the rear frame.. -Jan

Could anyone help me with a complete part list for the parts I need before I "take a dive" into the unknown (=pro engine)? Other things I should examine or change while it is open? Thanks -Jan

Me and my lad has had 4 Pro`s over the last year and the fan on my 300 seems similar to the others - exept the fact that when it first comes on it runs all the time. I wonder if the 300 are running a bit hoter than the rest of the models. When I had my cylinder off I noticed that the cylinder walls seem thinner due to the larger bore and then smaller space for coolant? There must also be a reason that all 300`s I have seen has mounted a heat sheald on the exhaust manifoil... Some language issue: In norway we call it "Skj

Thanks again! I think I need it... Must say that the gear oil is disapearing very slowly (yet) and I am keeping an eye on it... In the mean while should/can the combustion chamber be cleaned in any way to get rid of the carbone? (again of course it does not fix the disease) And an other thing: The engine is always running very hot. Only after a short time from cold start - between 30 sec and a min I think - the fan comes on and mostly stays on the whole ride. Is this normal for a 300? I think the thermostat is functioning as the fan don`t start until the engine is hot. If this isn`t normal can this also be a symptom of the same disease? Or anything else? (The radiator is containing coolant, and the water pump is functioning.) -Jan

Thanks (By the way: I used the word "momentarly". I did mean "temporary" of course.. ) I also thought that was strange but took his word. The knocking (or plinking) also stopped after fitting bigger jet and raising the needle. Would this help if it is like you say? Anyway I guess I should fix it soon. Problem now is that the dealer (theres only one in Norway) doesn`t have the parts yet.. -Jan

Hi The other topic touched the question, but i thought I would make a new one.. The crank seals on my 04 Pro 300 is probably leaking on both sides. First symptom was tha the piston was knocking heavily. My local dealer said the reason was that the engine runs lean. Since the carb is clean and jetted as it shoud, the reeds are OK he ment that it was taking in air through the crank seal. I momentarily solved that when I fitted a bigger jet and raised the needle maximum. Now it has begun to smoke some more, and the smoke smells nothing like strawberries (uses IPONE "strawberry oil". Smells like strawberries - goes like s*h*i*t )and the gear oil slowly dissapears. The question is wether this is dangerous for the engine? Should I fix it now in the middle of the season, or can I wait till the season end in oktober? Thanks -Jan

I guess You will find some answers in this document http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/Clu...air%201990~.doc -Jan

Youre screwed :-) If You didn`t damage the threads it will come out OK I guess. Just buy a new one. If You did damage the threads You have a problem. It maybe solves with Helicoil or similar but I doubt it -Jan

Of course I read it here. Quote: "YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE the flywheel initially to fit the two 'top-hat' threaded parts that need to be loctited in place. Once you have fitted the weight you can take it off and refit without removing the flywheel again." -Jan

I havent done this myself, but if it can be any help I remember that I read that You have to remove the flywheel the first time to fit something on the back of the flywheel. Once You have done this the wheight can be removed and refitted again without having to remove the flywheel. Hope this help.. -Jan

One more thing when the clutch cover is off; Measure the hight of the clutch "fingers" from the tip of the fingers down to the bottom plate inside the cluth. This distance should be 17,1mm +/- for the clutch to operate good. Smaller distance, and the clutch are hard to pull. Larger distance and the clutch might slip. Since this has nothing to do with the kick start, ask again if the measure differnce much from 17 mm.. :-) -Jan

Hi Quite normal damage on a Pro. Remove the clutch basket. One allen bolt in the middle and then lift the whole thing out. If it is struck you can lever it out with a couple of screwdrivers but be careful not to damage the surface of what you lever it on. Do not loose the bolt (as it is special - hole in the middle) and the washers. Dont remember if You have to remove the little sprocket. If You do it is no problem. Just a circlip and a washer. Then You can remove the kick axle. It is not fastened with anything. Be careful when the spring comes loose. It is possible to separate the axle and the sprocket but it is no use as the axle and sprocket is only sold as a kit. To remount is a little tricky. You have to insert the spring an then turn it (hmm..) counterclock one turn to load it up before You put the rest in place. Dont forget the friction spring (Buy a new one by the way). The rest is easy. Take care to put washers in the right place. Be also sure the pin on the water pump is aligned properly with the slots in the crank axle before You put it in. -Jan Sorry for my english writing. I am better in norwegian, but there is a chance that it would do you no help :-)

The ignition mapping (sun & rain switch) first appeared in 2006 I think? Correct me if I`m wrong. I also know it is usual to remove this switch as very few actually use it and it is just another source of failure to the bike. Why would you put the lights back on? Road registration? -Jan

Hi I actually disagree with You that a 80cc is too big. Our beginners from 8 years is starting out on our fullsize 50and 80cc Gassers. Its amazing how quick they learn to handle them (Ok some struggle more than others of course). But if your kid is 9 and big for his age and in addition has experience from MX I really would go for a full size 50/80cc or even a 125. If You go for a smaller bike I am afraid that he needs a new one in just months. A 125 GasGas has exactly the same size as the 50/80 cc versions only with larger engine. If You are angsious about the effect, the engine can easily be made "kinder" with a "head spacer" aviable at several web shops for about

Thanks again Jon. I looked up the manual and it says only "We recommend an 8 hour break in period" just assuming that everyone knows how that is done. I guess I should be able to answer the radiator question as I have just done it. Not to mention getting it in again last night.. :-) I removed all the radiator hoses, the exhaust "bend", the "fan module" and of couse the plug. It was still very narrow but I did manage to get it out (and in). -Jan

Or if the reason for draining is to remove the cylinder, don`t bother the water pump. Just loosen the water hoses and it will drain all right... :-) you will need to remove the hoses anyway. -Jan

The centre torx screw is the one to use if you want to drain the system. Watch out so you don`t loose the washers. There is one nylon washer to seal the WP house and there is a brass washer between the brass screw and the pump impeller inside the housing. If it dont follow the screw and you dont see it inside you have to loosen the housing and try to "lure" (?) it out some way. That is if it is still there of course.. :-) If You need to take out the WP housing, remove the three allen bolts and wiggle and pull until it loosens. It is only held by a O-ring seal. When remounting be sure that the pin on the WP axle is aligned with the slots in the crank axle. -Jan

Thank you I didn`t have the needed equipment so I tried out with the thickest gasket in the gasket package. It seems to work OK. At least no strange sounds.. :-) The next question is what now? Does it require a break in period? In that case how? What I have done is to mix 2% oil in the fuel (normally use 1,5%). Thanks Sorry if it seems that I have "taken over" this topic, but I feel that this probably also have interest for the original poster. -Jan

There is no gaskets between cylinder and head on a Pro. Just O-rings. Can`t imagine it is possible to change the thickness of the O-rings. What should work is this head spacer. Bought one yesterday but havent fitted it yet. Post again when I have. Someone else has this head spacer fitted? -Jan

Hehe.. The price of Gas can be discussed alot I think :-) See the americans complain. Dont know how to compare but I was in UK yesterday and payed