jandyb

My brother in a competition last year. There was two possible runs. To the left or to the right. He "chose" in between... And I had the camera ready.. Sorry brother.. Lucky no one takes photos when I am riding.. -Jan

Hi I`m new in this forum. Quite active in the GasGas forum though.. I take a lot of trial photos. Most of them can be seen at our clubs web page here: http://trogstadtrial.net/index.php/fotoalbum.html One of the pics I am fond of is this one of H

Nope. It is definitly not possible to withdraw the shaft from any side of the casing. You better pray it is the top hat, but I am tempted to agree with Lowbrow that a full job is needed. -Jan

Any help appreciated! Got the engine out now. Have a couple of question: 1. Seems like it is possible to take out the gear shift axle without splitting the engine. Is this true? 2. Is it possible to take out the whole clutch pack without dismantling it? -Jan

Hi James Curious: What is Your country? In international youth (up to 18) competitions you are not allowed to ride bigger bikes than 125. Theres a reason for that. In our country (Norway) everybody under 18 are riding 125`s. And they dont need anything bigger. My meaning is then that he will not outgrow the 125 in maybe 5-6 years. Go for a 125. -Jan

Cant say how it is where you live of cause, but I had newer heard about ATF Dexron whatever before too. But when looking for it I found it "everywhere" because it is normal Automatic Transmission Fluid And quite cheap too. An other alternative is plain mineral motor oil. -Jan

Hi Our Clubs 2005 Rookie has severe difficulties on shifting gears. I expect there is a bent shift lever axle or something? You agree? There is several very good descriptions in this forum and of cause Jon & co`s video tutorials on opening a Pro engine, but I havent found anything on how to open a 50-80 ccm GasGas engine. Is this because it is so straight forward job that it doesnt need any further description or what? Any tips before I start opening it? -Jan

Sorry to say kevo... you should never use synthetic oil in your Gasgas gearbox. Read this bulletin: GasGas Pro Technical Bulletin From factory the bikes come with GRO Gear Extrem 75W that is a: ATF Dexron III is a good alternative. -Jan

Found it.. There is nothing stopping the seal from coming outwards. If You are able to get a grip on the seal it should be possible to get it out. Maybe with a couple of very thin wood screws or something. Hope this helps.. -Jan

Allright.. Allright.. I have a left engine casing lying around somewhere. Give me half an hour and I will try to find it.. -Jan

I want to point out the very important detail that on the 04 model the yellow wire should be under the green one. -Jan

Hi This diagram should be right for Your 2004 model. The CDI box is not fixed anywhere. It just is put more or less loose inside the frame. Some model have a sort of clamp or metal lip to bend around (sorry dont know the exeact english word for this) though. -Jan

Finally back from work... puhh.. To check your clutch fibres measure the hight from the clutch fingers down to the even surface below. Between 17 and 18 mm is spot on. For each mm lower the clutch get signifantly harder to pull because the lever action angle gets too low. If you take the entire clutch pack out all the plates should measure 9,75 mm +/- 0,1 mm. For each 0,1 mm thicker the finger higth lowers 2 mm. You will probably find that the clutch pack is too thick. This could be caused by dirty oil. Clean the plates thorughly and measure again. If still too thick You have some options to get it thinner: 1. Buy a new clutch pack. Easy solution. Be sure that the new clutch pack have the right heigth before you buy. 2. Change the steel plates to thinner ones. 3. Sand the fibres with very fine grain paper on an even surface. Cheap solution, but a bit risky. If fibre plates get uneven the clutch will vibrate. Be sure the pack doesnt get too thin. If so the cluch will slip as Laser says -Jan

If Your clutch has BECOME more heavy, dont mess with the spring. The cause is much likely clutch fibers swelling. Check clutch hight (you will find descripsion other places in this forum. Dont have time to explain now) and adjust with thinner steel plates or buy new fibres. -Jan

I agree.. If you truely love her you get her a 125 pro If You dont love her.... any bike should do.. -Jan

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....showtopic=27909 -JAn

I havent been that happy about the gold but that may be because of the bad finish on the one we have. Taking a look on the pic of the 06 Raga I think I will reconcider. It will be gold.. -Jan

Finally got the da***** bolt out. Thats an other story.. Now I have stripped the engine and swing arm down to bare metal. According to a paint shop nearby I should use an acid primer and I will. But what colour? This is an 06 125ccm racing with chrome frame and red plastic. Original the engine and swing is painted in some gold finish. Later models are more like a light "greenish" colour. I think I would like it to be a light colour with a smooth surface that is easy to clean and that looks clean when it is. Any suggestions? White maybe? Anyone have pics of bikes with painted engine? -Jan

Yes I know... thanks anyway -Jan

?? The kind of ATF that I use come with a tiny tube inside the cap. Fits righte in there.. -Jan

Hi Check out this video from about 6.30. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A80n7zq80n8 Does this help? -Jan

I have one bearing lying around on my desktop. The inscrpion says "HN 1516". A quick Google gives me this SKF bearing: http://www.skf.com/skf/productcatalogue/Fo...rodid=146121005 Seems that you are on track of something... Ohh... I almost forgot... There are six bearings. There is two in the swing arm too.. -Jan

How is it broke? Is it possible to weld? -Jan PS: I have one extra, so if You come by one day You could have it for fifty quid...