jandyb

Been there done that... Had my 04 300Pro open 5 times earlier this summer before getting the crank seals to... ehh... seal.. Sold it as fast as I could a couple of weeks ago and are taking over my sons 06 125. Was converting it to a 200 when I got the idea to paint the casings... So this season i have only ridden one competition, and that was on a borrowed bike. Great! (not) -Jan

Thank you very much for the cheer up.. Havent had the time to work on it. Giving it a dash of penetrating oil and a couple of knocks once or twice a day. No result.. yet Got in contact with a trial fellow from the neighbour club last night that works at a metal workshop. He was more than willing to give drilling a try, but couldnt say when he had the time. -Jan

No feedback on the 2010`s, but a Q: Why buy a new 125 to convert it to 225? Why not buy a new 250? -Jan

No I maybe didnt describe it correctly. The bolt is cut even on the right side but on the left side I have only drilled out the bolt head leaving about 20 mm of the bolt outside the engine. I havent been able to drive it one single mm. I think if I had manage to move it one mm the problem would be solved.. Havent said it before but there is no threads involved exept for about 5 mm threads on the bolt that are inside the engine on the right side. No threads in the casings. I am still soaking it with penetrating oil and are giving it some punches everey other our or so.. I think my two options now are: 1. Giving it some tons of pressure using a hydraulic workshop press. Still afraid to damage the casing though. 2. Find someone who has equipment to drill a straight hole right through. Correction: Almost right through. -Jan

Update: Removed Bash plate. Yes. A lot of tension there but didnt help.. Cut off the bolt on the right hand side and managed to get it out of the frame. Now I have the bolt cut even on the right and about 20 mm out on the left side. Bought a hot air gun yesterday and have heated the cases so the oil are boiling... no help... yet all the time used a lot of chill spray and lubricant... no help yet This thing is really stuck. All the time used a small sledgehammer to hit it with and I havent held back any. Got a suggestion today to use a workshop press like this What do you think? I am a bit afraid to damage my cases though... -Jan

Too late.. Already drilled he bolt head off.. -Jan

Hello Peter Well somebody have to keep this forum going on... Dont know why I always get trouble when I am doing something. This time the 06 needed new link arm bearings and I thought I should do the 125 to 200 conversion that I have planned for long. The bad look on the engine and swing arm had annoyed me even since we bought the bike two years ago so i thought that now is the time for action. AND when removing the flywheel cover I discovered some fresh oil underneeth. Again I now have experience from changing bearings and seals so why not. Even easyer to paint the casing when everything is apart. So why the %

Ahh.. of course. Clever! And another thought then: With a hole inside its possible to chill the entire bolt down with chilling spray... -Jan

Thanks for your help guys. It really help me see the light in the tunnel... Got a plan now. First I will try to get the engine out of the frame by cutting the bolt on each side af the engine. Then I will try some heating while knocking gently. Hot air gun is probably a good idea. Magnesium actually burns doesnt it? If this doesnt work I will try to find a metal workshop nearby that have the right equipment to drill a hole in the bolt like Wayne suggests. Why not all the way through by the way? I will keep you informed... -Jan

Hi You kind of have too bleed it, but You will only have too bleed it the easyest thinkable way. Just assemble it and top up the reservoir and the air will probably come up by it self when you move the lever slightly in and out. -Jan

Hi Now I am in deep sh*** again! While stripping the engine for painting (see other topic) I couldnt get the front end mounting bolt loose. Putting 90Kg on the allen key didnt help other than destroying the internal hex. Finally got to drill out the bolt head - that bolt is hard - I figured it was just to hit it loose, but no. It is actually stuck in the engine casing! Probably by corroding together. What do I do now? I am afraid to hit too hard cause the magnesium casing probably doesnt cope too much. Any ideas on how to attack this? Anyone experience this before? -Jan

Hi My 2006 125 pro Racing is the first model where the engine and swing arm are painted in that green/gold "magnesium look" paint. The quality on this first bikes was awful, and now it looks really bad although the bike really is good. I have now stripped it down to paint theese parts. Could someone give me an idea of what color and type of paint to use? Thanks -Jan

Hi You gain access to kickstart gears you have to remove the clutch basket. First thing is of course to remove the clutch cover. Take care not to loose the thin shim on the kick start axle. It usually stick to the clutch cover and if not taken care of it will be gone. Often first time when reassembly a lot think that the shim is for the clutch piston and put it in the wrong place. When removing clutch cover you dont have to remove the water hoses from the water pump and the hydraulic hose from the clutch. Just put them aside when working. If you lay the bike on the side you dont have to drain the oil either. The clutch basket is held by one allen - i think it is 4mm or maybe 5mm. Any allen tool will be ok, but be sure to use a fresh key/bit so you dont destroy the bolt. When removed check the teeths on the kickstart and the idle gear that is the small gear between the kickstart and the clutch basket. It is common that the teeths on the idle gear is worn on the inside, and just a wery little wear here causes noise and a possible problem with engaging the kickstart. If it looks bad replace it. If it is hardly noticeable you can try to grind away any notches. Also check the tension spring on the kick axle. Its the "funny looking" spring with an "ear" that goes around the axle and the ear into the engine goods. If it looks or feel bendt/not tight replace it. To remove the kickstart axle first remove the idle gear. Take care of the shims one at each side of the gear. Then twist the kick clockwise so the teeths come clear and pull it right out. To reassembly it put the spring end into the hole in the engine, twist the axle one round counterclockwise (if I remember correctly) and then push it into place. Needs som "twiggeling". Use the kickstart as a tool. Engine oil and gearbox oil is the same, but the most correct is gearbox oil as the oil lubricates the gearbox and the clutch. The "engine" though - meaning cylinder/piston/crank - is lubricated by the two stroke oil in the gasoline. Hope this helps. Just ask if there is any more.. -Jan

What tweeks (tweaks?) did they do? Curious.. -Jan

This works! Did it yesterday.. -Jan

In our club the Gassers start every time while the Sherco people are standing around yelling and swearing... -Jan

If it is the same bearings as the Pro uses (why not?) I think I have one lying around. I`ll check the numbers when back from work. Both the upper and lower bearing are tapered BTW... -Jan

If buying a new bike is there a point buying a rebuildt 225 rather than a stock 250? I guess the characteristics are totally different, but wich is better? -Jan

Hi Did this a couple of weeks ago. Went to a car workshop where a friend of mine works. They had a tool for this. A kind of a "withdrawer" or "puller" (dont know the english word for this) and it was done in a minute or so.. Left the headstock in the freezer some hours and boiled the bearing packed in watertight plastic. When assembling the bearing just fell right in place without any need for "violence". -Jan

And for us Europeans that doesnt live on the island where they drive at the wrong side of the road. None of us understand a **** about stones or lbs`s.. -Jan

Hmm.. You are right. One should check and double check information found on the net. I did think 0,9mm was a large gap. Dont you think the Raga should have NGK BPR5ES as the rest of the Pro`s? -Jan

Just a remark: The new bearings with hole came in 2005 or 2006. Before that there is a narrow bearing with a "open" shim between bearing and seal where the opening have to line up with the hole in the casing. I am talking lhs now. If it is the old type I would seriously concider change to the new type. To do the change you "only" have to remove the sleeves on the crankshafts. "Only" in "" becouse this can be a little tricky to get them off... On the new type there is just one hole. That is for the outflow. For the "inflow" there is a narrow passage in the casing. Be sure that the outer teflon seal doesnt clogg that passage. -Jan

Hi What I know is that early Pro`s clutch fibres was destroyed by the additives in synthetic oil. Espesially when mixed with break fluid and coolant. Because of the construction of the engine this was not a question of "if" it was "when". Status now I am not sure of, but I know new Pro`s are delivered with GRO Gear Extreme 75W wich is a mineral oil. -Jan

Most motorcycle workshops have equipment to measure the crank. I just remembered something. The left bearing is lubricated by gear oil coming in from the gear case through a narrow passage and going out through a hole in the bearing that again have to be aligned with the hole in the casing. If one or both of theese are clogged naturally the bearing wont last long. -Jan

If the bearing is gone are You sure You put one in? (Haha... funny me... ) No seriously are the bearings actualy damaged or is it "just" the seals? If the bearing is damaged I would go for the unbalanced or misaligned crank theory. What kind of bearing does the 05 have? The early narrow bearing with the big seal against the crank or the later wide bearing with the seal inside the bearing and O-rings on the outside and inside? -Jan