slogger

At last they are striped! Tried the rawbolt but could not get a good enough purchase. In the end it was a very patient 2 hrs with a compressor popping one out at a time and them g clamping to ones that had freed up (one 2 were out I found that a old file fitted great across the faces and held the free ones in just the right place to pop the others out). Now time to order a refurb kit. Does anyone have some top tips and avoids for the perfect rebuild ??????? I noticed a few in this posting but I always seem to get a slight lip on the new seal no matter how persistent I am ??????

Cheers TLTEL, will bear that in mind, although had the callipers apart today. A very sorry state of affairs. Neither set of pistons wanting to give much even with an airline. Thinks its going to be the rawbolt tip next.................

UPDATE: Bike now running sweet......... Starting easily and ticking over and picking up well. Bought a full carb seal kit and changed the small seal at the top of the choke and the larger seal where the choke jet sits in the bottom of the float chamber (that one was missing!) Reset mixture screw to 2.5 turns out and voil

Guys, thanks for the prompt replies. Took the caliper off once I got home and the pistons are not returning so a full strip down in in order. Was just wondering, if you normally do this on failure only or is it common practice to give the calipers a service (ie strip them down) ewvery 4-5 events as a matter of course ? Rob

Since getting back into trials I have been practicing regularly and have attempted three events. Unfortunately two out of the three (today being one of them) resulted in a mechanical retirement. The first one was last year on a 94 Techno which I bought to get back into it and today on a 2004 Rev 3 which up until today had performed without fault. Both retirements were rear brake calipers sticking on. Not fun on a snowy day. Using the rear brake on some tight camber turns (after about 10 sections), I could not workout why I kept losing the rear? On checking, the brake was not releasing cleanly. So my question is really about general maintainance for brakes? I was always taught to leave hydraulic brakes alone unless they are sticking as playing around with the seals and pistons causes more damage than good. I think I have probably been mis-advised and really need to understand a typical maintainance routine for hydraulic brakes. I dont want any more retirements........I want to enjoy my Sundays getting muddy, tired and generally making a fool of myself! Rob

hmmmmmmmm was I tempted......not having to much fun! Slow idle jet was blocked, running much better now. Mixture screw is 3.5 turns out amd runs fine?????? as 2.5 its still hunting. I reckon its still not 100%? Does anyone know stock settings? Think I will have the carb off again and give each jet a final once over

New carb parts on and no leakes!!! Is starting first kick but only with the choke on. Once the choke is off she dies. If I lift the choke slightly I can feather it enought to keep it on tickover. Thoughts ????? Maybe a jet in the carb I have not fully cleaned ??? Mixture screw is 2.5 turns out from full in and idle screw half a turnout from full in. Have tweaked both but no difference.

Cheers Glenn, have been able to locate the parts straight away from Dellorto web site and scrounged a jubilee clip from a neighbour! Rob

Well she started! Not pleasant though, ran for about 10 secs............... Noticed the following: 1) Petrol leaking out of the carb. Noticed on closer inspection that the part that has the pipe connector and holds the filter in place has a small dent in it. Picture below, lower left. Prefabed a rough washer to stem the trickle but I need to sort this properly. Does anyone know if this part is available or do I need to find a full carb to rob one off?? Is their supposed to be a seal as well as the filter disc or does thiscreate the seal in normal circumstances? 2) Bike ran at full revs once it had fired. Noticed on the front carb manifold that their is no jubilee clip, suspect air was getting in so will take a look at that next... Ah well at least it did not rattle and the piston remasned in the block! (and the stop button worked so result............)

Glenn, thats encouraging to hear....... I am wondering, should I start a new thread to document the rebuild? just carry on with this one or start a new thread for each problem I encounter ????? dont want to offend or break the forum rules! eg........... Initial tasks have been: 1) Start the engine prework as suggested in this thread (plug out and oil down bores) 2) Have drained sump...........hmmmmm a total of about 30ml of oil came out! 3) New kill switch and front brake level fitted 4) New plug in, initial kick over gave me a spark straight away 5) Carbs off ready to be stripped First problem....... Brake cable had a really weird adjuster at the bottom of it (first pic below). Looking at it, its a bodge job? Without it the cable is about 1.5 inches short (second pic below) so I assume it needs one (but the cable itself does have an adjuster on the end? Is it the wrong cable fitted or should it havre two adjusters, one threaded into the fork leg and one on the end of the cable ?

So this is what 3 years in a garage does to a bike! (have the side panels, they were in my car so they did not blow off on the journey). Only missing a kill switch and a front brake lever. Once the snow clears, I can wash her off and get started getting her ready

Glenn (and all who have contributed), Many thanks for all the welcome advice. Am planning to pick her up from Mums at the end of the month (if this weather clears!). Am looking forward to both getting her running and competing on her. The 240 was the last bike I rode competitivly as a teen and next to the 200 Whitehawk was my favourite bike of that time. Will keep you all updated Rob

After competing last year on a modern bike, I've bitten the bullet and have purchased a 240 twin shock to have a go at classic twin shock events. I know the history of the bike as it was owned by a mate of my brothers and has sat in my mums garage for 3 years. Im reasonably OK with the mechanics as I rode one as a teen. So my dilemma? Before offering to buy the bike (i paid

cheers all, will get on the phone next week

Was teaching someone at the weekend (my brother in law) and he had a little "off". Need to replace the front mudguard on a 2004 270 rev3. Have googled but the results aren't very helpful. Any UK members recommend the best place for mail order? Rob

Cheers, went low as I am not sure how much work the engine will need once I get it started.....also it has been in mums garage for 3 years so in theory Im offsetting the reduce purchase price against rent!............ Will get some pics on once Ive picked it up. The bike is in Bristol and Im in North Wales so I have to pop down there in the new year to collect it

After 20 years out of trials, I treated myself to a 2004 Beta to see if I could still complete. Have loved practicing the last 9 months (as well as tinkering with the bike) and have completed in two events. The last one was Border Classics event 2 weeks ago, where I was bitten by the twin shock bug! Seeing all of the old bikes I use to compete on got me thinking...... So Ive managed to source a Fantic 240 (the last bike I rode competetively). Has been in my mums garage for 3 years (a mate of my brothers). It has not been ran but does kick over. Only obvious issue is that the front forks are stuck, apart from that just needs a damm good clean. Paid

Hiya, Start back with a similar age techno about 12 months ago. Same as you, started working thru it but it became a real money pit. Brakes were a nightmare as the parts were quite pricey, but I did manage to get them into a servicable state. Pistons were seized in the calipers so the only real way to get them out was a cut down banjo hose and an air line! once they were split they were quite straight forward. Ran the bike for 6 months but did not find it competetive as it needing heavy maintainence to keep it going. Sold it on ebay and paid a bit more for a 2004 Rev 3 (only

Where from ???????

Ive just had a quick look over the mid section of my bike (now the front and rear is sorted) and with the exception of the the brake pedal (which is an easy replacement), I have noticed that both pegs/hangers need some work. The RH peg hanger has come away where the piece of the braket that has the hole for the bolt joins the main hanger. Therefore the peg is only being supported by the front part of the bracket. The LH peg sits at a slight downward angle (I would assume thru a mixture of normal wear and the odd impact from the kickstart process). With a new set of hangers and pegs costing the best part of

Rick, welcome and good luck with forth coming events. I am going to attempt CYTC in 2 weeks time (Bodfari I think!). 2nd event after 20 years out of it. Am practicing Sunday. Where do you practice? And if you want to meet up give me a shout. Am just outside of Mold and practice at a farm in Trevor (near LLangollen). Rob

Graham, Job sorted, thanks for the tip. Was able to use a syphon tube with a tap on the end but marked the level as you suggested and "job was a good un". Think what has thrown me was the picture in the Beta manual. It clearly shows the spring inside the fork leg BELOW the tube top and UNDER the fluid level. With the forks compressed the ring protudes the top of the fork leg by about 2 turns??????? Hence my assumption - fork extended! Cheers for your help, I now have a very nice front fork action Rob

Graham, thanks for the final validation......I suspected this was the case. The Beta manual specifically cites fork compressed for the RHS but not for the LHS. I assumed (incorrectly!) that this one needed to be extended. As you state, the maths just dont add up!!!!!! Other movement is OK. Nothing getting in the way when the caps are off. Will empty the fluid on the LHS tonight and reset the level with the forks compressed cheers Rob

Still not right! Have refilled both tonight and can only get limited travel (as measured above). Measurement from top of front mudguard at highest point of arch and bottom of lower yoke is 165mm. Cant get anywhere near full compresion. Next logical step is probably to remove both fork legs and see which one is restricting the travel............. Just to check basics.... RHLeg (cannister) - measurement is taken with fork fully compressed, then cap attached to slider and tightened down LHLeg (spring) - measurement is taken with fork fully extended and spring in, then 2 spacers inserted before cap is tightened down #####edit note##### - just read 2 other articles that say LHS should be measured with spring out and fork fully conpressed, another says spring in and fully compressed???? Im confused now ?????

Cheers for that, started checking last night. Like a right muppet I took BOTH fork leg caps off at the same time!!!!! Obviously by compressing the fork legs to check the RHS all of the fluid spiled ouit of the left...doh! Anyway, the RHS (cannister side) was low so I have topped that up. Getting more fluid so I can reset the level of the LHS and see how it is.