redneck

under the boot is a bit wet and i was thinking that was a problem, i have been like that for a while. where do you get the rebuilds or can i just go to the local hardware shop and get some o-rings? ill try the adjustment as well, will bleed it first though if i can. last time i played around with the adjustment it didnt do much. the reservoir was full last time i took the cover off but i was getting massive bubbles when it was being bled a month ago.

the lever feels normal, a tad spongy as of last night so i think a bleed is in store when my dad gets back from Cali. it drags enormously but there is still a hint of the fact the clutch does something like being able to stop and have the bike still running, yes a bit of throttle is added though. again the lever feels normal, but a tad spongy but since all the adjustment is used it hits the stop point in the master cylinder.

i tried the no clutch thing this evening and it shifted just as smooth as if i used the clutch. unfortunately it didnt help.

my dad's old aprilia would do that with the choke on and would not idle at all with it off and my dad's monty will do that with the choke on. id say to check the low speed/idle jet to make sure its clean. thats what happened to the aprilia.

when you start up the bike try and hold the rear brake when you put it in gear. my bike will strain like that too but usually not after i have broken the plates apart. i find that this method will NOT work if you have already put it in to gear and i have found it works best if done from a cold start. you shouldnt have any problem until it has sat a day or so. i find that i only have to do it once a ride/event/day. hope this helps! edit: i have a similar problem though where the clutch adjustment is fully used and the brake method does not seem to work. is you problem this bad as well?

i got it going thinking that the plates were just stuck but i dont think thats the case. i usually hold the rear brake when i put it in to gear first time after firing it up. that didnt help either. it just went through the brake and make a small pit in the dirt floor in my barn . really have to hold the brake if the clutch is back to the adjustment it was at originally. i have zoomed through my meadow to get through the box but nothing substantial. did ease up a tad bit not like it was about a year ago. ill try going through the box w/o the clutch after i do the brake hold method if it hasnt been fixed magically from my last ride a month ago. weirder things have happened. i plan to try to get out an ride after school today so i hope that it wont go in to gear because my clutch is that far adjusted.

i dont know about the bar roll so listen to some one else for that. for tire pressure i would just say go with what feels good. there is no set pressure. i weigh about 110LB , yes i am little but i am young so hopefully ill grow a bit, and i run about 25PSI on hard surfaces. soft and slick stuff ill go down to 10 or 15 PSI if i dont need to hop alot.

i have heard the 300 is a monster. if you know you can handle it and the price is right, go for it. i ride a 280 pro model bike, my first modern bike, and at times that can be a handful since i dont weigh much, and havent ridden in quite a while.

i love my gasser. the only problem i had was the kick start spring broke which i have heard is something that happens pre 2003, my bike is an 02. the thing starts by 3rd kick in the winter months , when there is snow and ice everywhere, and usually 1st kick any other time. itll go as long as you feed it, let it breath and keep good oil in it.

i cant view any of you photos, says the site in unavailable or something like that, but from the description it sounds incredible. my 140LB gasser now sound like it is very fat. i have always wanted to be able to throw it around like my trials bicycle.

my bike has been stored for almost a year and in november i finally got the rear tire fixed, not as id like it though, and i hopped on to see if all was good and the clutch was beyond horrible. i let out all the adjustment then bled it twice. it is barley better now. now all the adjustment is taken up and the master cylinder (its an AJP) hits the stop point and at that point the clutch is disengaged just enough to come to a stop with out killing it. the running is very bad and is almost as if i had the clutch out. how can this be fixed? should i bleed it from the reservoir to the ram where i was bleeding it from the ram up with a syringe? do i need a new master cylinder ( it does become wet around the ram )? are there rebuild kits for AJP master cylinders? thanks in advance.

i have personally tried that with my 02 Gasser. the tire did not bead and it was wayy to stiff for me. i weigh about 110 pounds so if your friend is bigger than i am it should be fine. i am having a rear tire leak and i keep being told"throw a tube in it"

its not an 02. i have an 02 Pro and unless the frame styles where that different from the Pro and TXTs its not an 02. liiks like a 1999 or 2000 to me. i dont think the 270 was made in 02 either.

bienvenu! excuze moi parce que mon francais est pas bien. i also like your warm introduction of where you probably going to die.

t tried the tube thing but i could not get the bead to seat and the tire was waaay to stiff for me. i dont weigh very much.

i would say the kick start spring is broken. your problem sounds very much like the one i had. from what i hear and have experienced the springs spontaneously blow. what your is your 300? i think the problem was fixed in 03 or 04.

hey the new bike dont have a seat so i guess its not needed. good luck with that rear tire. i have the same problem my self on my gas gas. does your fantic kick forward or back like a normal gas gas or honda? i never could get my clutch to not drag a little. my dad used to compete on my old fantic years before i was born and had done special stuff to the clutch and none of it worked. have fun and let me know if your ever in central oregon.

whats what my rim tape looks like now except the hole in the rime tape is much larger and the valve stem barely covers it on the inside. would you agree that is my problem?

california is lost. if they dont know what it is theyll probably give you a green sticker and you could probably put lights on your trials bike and get it street legal because they wont know what it is.

i got mine from lewisport at an event one time and i clean mine when ever. maybe every month depending if i ride alot. just torch it and its good to go in 5 minutes.

i hope i will find one or all of them.

you have a great area to ride in. im always in reno for the big reno gun show at the hilton. i have an old 1983 fantic 240 pro that was my first trials bike and i loved it. not very modern or light but it had a powerful bullet proof motor. it was only a 200 but had at least as much power as my 2002 Gas Gas 280 Pro. does your fantic idle( mine never did) and does it creep with the clutch in is mine used to do? welcome to Trials central. have fun on that fantic.

my valve stem has to be quite tight(tighter than i want it to be) or it will leak. i dont know what you mean by the 3mm spacer or where it is. there are 2 rubber things on my valve stem, one on the inside and the other on the out side. the rim tape is centered but still leaks from a few spokes. i believe this to be because of the valve stem. the rubber thing on the inside of the rim is much smaller than the original valve stem's. i believe the old valve stem was a 2007 year model and the one i have is a new 08 type. i believe the inner rubber thingy is letting a bit of air past under the rim tape.

my valve stem is brand new. the hole in the rim tape is slightly large but the valve stem doesnt leak buit might contribte to the spoke leaks.

the nocking could be the same type of nocking you wound find in a car. my 2002 gasser has the clutch fingers that tap around and make a clattering sound. welcome to the forums!