wixee

Bleed the clutch line before you buy plates. Mine starts to drag once in a while but if i change the dot fluid and bleed it well its back to normal. Back bleed it with a syringe, i tape a bowl under the master cylinder on the handle bars to catch the stuff i push out. This is by far the best way i've found of bleeding it. I have replaced the plates before and put the standard ones in and they work fine.

I did mine a while ago, a friend welded it back together for me. He made me use a dremel and cut the weld in half all the way round, he said this made it a lot easier to tack back together. Check with who ever is going to weld it how they want you to cut it open, you can't tell mine was ever opened. My packing was a solid lump of carbon and thing was a mess inside so glad i went to the trouble. I replaced my header and muffler at the same time so its hard to say what difference it made, but definitely can't of hurt.

Back bleed the clutch and change the fluid before you change the plates, Every-time mine drags a bit this does the job and its cheaper

I've got a montesa so not sure if the gas gas is the same but i just repacked my expansion chamber! I got a friend who is a welder which helped a lot. I cut the thing in half along the existing welds leaving half the weld on either side (aparently this makes it a lot easier to weld back together, rather than a straight but joint) I didn't cut though the connecting ends so as not to have alinement issues, but cut just behind then so they both stayed solid and on one side. Check with who ever is going to weld it back up so they can tell you the best way to cut it. You wouldn't even know that mine had been opened once it was welded back together. Then spent a good hour cleaning it up (Petrol) worked best. Then repacked it. The same stuff that goes in your muffler. The packing is cheap and my bike sounds like a new bike now, i did but a new muffler on as well though. A lot better than 250 quid if you've got some one who can weld it for you.

Cheers for the advice so far I'm english but live in the states but the bike has always run fine on the highest octane unleaded. So after talking to a few more people i looked in the carb to see what jets i had. 33 pilot and a 110 main The carb looks clean but i'll clean it and blow it out to be sure. The only other thing i noticed was the o ring on the by starter jet (60) was damaged, would this course any problems? Looking at some of the other posts i saw people where recomending bigger jets Main 122 pilot 45 slide 3.5mm this was for a Keihin carb but would they similar or the same for the standard carb?? (also what is a slide of 3.5mm) Thanks a lot Matt

i use supper unleaded (93) and an oil ratio of 80-1

I've got a 04 315, its a sweet bike but always been in need of a bit of work. So i thought i spend a bit of money and sort her out. She's got new wheel and supention bearings bash guard and exhaust. The problem is that after all the time and money she's running like s**t. The new exhaust sounds great at idle and low revs but knocks really badly from halfway up to full revs. I told that this is because its running lean. The tip i was given was to raise the jet needle in the carb up a notch. When i tried this i found the needle is already at it highest setting (the pin is at the slot furthest down the shaft) What else can i try to sort this out? The bike never used to have this problem, is it normal to have to reset the carb after changing the exhaust? The old exhaust had a hole in the muffler and the packing in the expansion chamber was rock solid. Any tips would be a great help as i've spent quite a bit of time working on the dam thing all ready and just want to ride it. I've never worked on a carb before so please explain so a newbie such as myself will understand Thanks a lot Matt Also i've been reading some of the posts about the Keihin and oko carbs being a good upgrade (not that i want to spend anymore money right now) what are the models that fit on a 315 in case i see an amazing deal on ebay.

That would be my choice if i could afford a new bike

Thanks for the tips, stupidly enough i'd kinked the fuel line putting the tank back on, so straightening that seems to have done the trick. Amazing what a bit of fuel will do for the bike.

I had clutch drag when i first got my bike as well, I changed the plates (stayed with stock) and replaced the oil to silkolene. I think the thing that made the biggest difference though was changing and bleeding the dot4. It did it all at the same time though so not sure. I can now start my bike in any gear and it'll tick over fine. Every couple of months it'll start to come back but a quick bleed sorts it out everytime. The best way i've found of bleeding is to back bleed. Take the top of your reservoir and tape a bowl under it (to catch the run off) fill a syringe with dot4 and push it in from the bleed nut (at the clutch) It'll push all the air up out of the top which is the way it wants to go. Its also a good way to change the oil, just keep pushing till the stuff coming out at the top is clean. Can make a bit of a mess but i find it a lot easier.

Hello My 04 315 has been cutting out on me recently. Its always at the end of the ride on the way home, when i ride maybe a mile on the flat. It wont re-start if i try and kick it straight away so have to let it sit for a while then it seems to run fine. Today it did it about 3 times on the way home though and was running worse every time. I going to try and figure it out tomorrow but any tips would be a great help. Thanks wix