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ginger_ninja54

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Everything posted by ginger_ninja54
 
 
  1. Someone got too much time on their hands at work??!! How strong is this 'printed' plastic? I'm a toolmaker, i saw one of these printers at an exhibition at the NEC. bloody clever! was 'printing' a city map, with all buildings and contours on it, v.impressive! back to above.... i'd guess this'd have to be milled from an ally or plastic billet wouldn't it? how strong do the layers of plastic bond together? would it stand up to water, etc? (in no way knockin it - mega-impressed! just askin'!)
  2. *****UPDATE!!***** havent got around to chopping up the clutch lever quite yet, but have managed to fit a new, nylon lined, clutch cable......and....... think i should have tried this first!!! d'oh!!! 110% better!! may still look into doing the clutch arm soon, every little helps after all!! thanks for the help tho guys. any more reviews/reports on these devices ^^^^^^^^^ as posted by r2w and others. Thanks again!
  3. Or....... (as i'm a Toolmaker [Precision Engineer ]) I could cut it, drill and tap it twice on each part, then mill a bar with a series of holes, and have an all singing all dancin', adjustable clutch lever!! OR just get it cut 'n' welded! Is Ally tho, so will be a job for a fabricator friend of mine............
  4. looks like i will go down the arm-mod route. anyone know of any tr34, tr35 or supertrials breaking? don't really wanna chop up the original in case (not that i'm doubting you guys!!) it causes problems. may be a daft question.... but why wouldnt the manufacturers have made the arm to the 'modded' length in the first place? assume to keep lever travel to a minimum? thanks
  5. Have read social-climber's post ref; hydraulic conversions, but unfortunately, this is out of my price-range! What are these lightening devices like? any good? Assume it is geared internally? My fingers tend to cramp-up at the end of a long/strenuous section, and by the end i cant always pull the clutch in..... quite often with spectacular results!!! hopefully fitting one of these will alleviate this!
  6. hi i have a 1992 beta, and have found John Lampkin - BETA very usefull for information on older beta's. just click on the previous models section.
  7. I 'competed' (in the loosest possible term!!) in my first trial sunday just passed, and whilst not terribly successful..... (terrible prob the best description!) it was most enjoyable!! started off with a bit of a nightmare, clutch was slipping big-time, but this was due to me changing levers. simple adjustment would have cured it, but being all nervy, in a rush and being all fingers and thumbs, changed back to 'spare' lever, job done. my first ever section turned out to be one of the worst on the course (imho), and due to the fact i forgot to let my rear tyre down (after changing it and leaving it at 20psi!!) i managed to look a complete t*t by having about as much grip as a slippery-thing on a slippery-day, and getting stuck on the steep incline/exit!! lesson learnt! approx 2/3rds round 1st lap, front tube decided it was having none of it and let all its air out in one foul swoop! (thought was an impact puncture after a sharp drop on a section) so didnt bother trying to re-inflate/repair, just rode rest of course with a flatty! (turned out-the valve blew its innards out!) got the bug now!!! next trial.... this sunday!! ***FOR SALE*** One pre-owned kidney. (possible pair available) one careful owner. may px for newish beta/gasgas any offers considered!!
  8. i think my uncle (Richard Parkyn) was due to compete in the classic - but smashed his wrist up at a trial (my first ever trial - good luck mascot??! i don't think!) on sunday just gone..... d'oh!
  9. Will stick it in and try it then! BVM have been really good. The supertrial (it seems) isnt very well recognised/remembered, i didnt realise it was a rare breed (???!!). I have been told by at least 2 companies that all beta's after 1991 were water-cooled, etc etc. They dont seem too keen to look after ALL customers, perhaps i'm not gonna spend as much as a REV3 rider! I dont think i'm the only member on here that isnt mounted on a bang-up-to-date bike, it makes a change for a company to want to help 'us' out, and whilst 'plugs' or ads for companies may be frowned upon, i think it should be recognised!
  10. thanks for the advice on the different products guys.... but! all i need to know for now is,what difference will running medium gear oil have, over light gear oil? after this change i'm prob gonna change 2-stroke oil and gearbox oils to a different brand. BVM have been a great help on plastics for mine, and new C&S etc, so will in future be putting my business their way, so can move away from silkolene.
  11. maybe next-time! have a can of silkolene medium gear oil now, but dont know whether to use it or not?!?! whats in it now i dont know... its red! what will running medium gear oil over light gear oil do to the clutch etc, as i assume the actual lubrication qualities wont be much different?
  12. Bought a few bits for the bike yesterday. Picked up fuchs-silkolene medium gear oil (medium - on advice from shop-owner), but am now unsure as to what i really should be using, and can only find advice on quantities, not grades (on john lampkin site) Ideally i'll stick with silkolene as my local place is a stockist, but should i be using LIGHT, MEDIUM or COMP GEAR? cheers!
  13. can only presume the theory is the same as with a wet suit.... (i may be cornish, but im no surfer!! fun with no engine??? impossible!! well, except......!) the neoprene doesnt let the water through, but it will come in through joints, vents etc, the water is then trapped, sandwiched between your skin and the neoprene. you body heats this water, and thats what stays warm.
  14. Why?...... Although i don't ride my bike on the road, i have to use some privately owned lanes to get to where i ride. These lanes are used by the owners, farmers and other works vehicles. With the earlier nights, and weather getting worse, wanted some lights so easier to be seen, also owners don't want to get into 'crossers' using their land, so if my bike looks road legal, they are a lot happier...... Now..... Can anyone tell me how i can fit lights? Also - any recommendatios for aftermarket lights, if i cant find/too dear originals?
  15. I am thinking of putting lights on my bike... What do i need to do this? I dont need it road legal, just a 'sidelight' front an back would do. Do i need a battery for this? or is there another way? As it is, there is no wiring for lights. After original style Supertrial, tr35 or even tr34 lights, can anyone help?
  16. Any Aircooled riders.... what do you run your mixture at? At 50;1 it seeems a tad smoky. hope its mixture an not a ring gone.......
  17. Whilst reseaching the identity/type of my Beta, i came across 'Reverse' model Beta's. These have what i'd call regular setup, i.e kickstart on right, drivetrain on left, Whereas standard Beta's and i see a lot of european bike have kickstart on left and drivetrain on right. Is there any reasoning behind this? or just down to the manufacturers at the time????
  18. ginger_ninja54

    Oil Mix?

    Can anyone tell mewhat is the correct mixture i should be using when mixing my petrol.....? Currentlymixing at 50:1...... Using Silkolene comp2 pre-mix oil I have (what has now been identified as) a '92 BETA SuperTrial(aircooled) Anyone recommend any better oil? What do you all use?
  19. Just been looking through pics and specs at thetrialcompany.com and may have found a bit more out.... I remember now, my (remaining section) rear mudguard is painted white, its blue underneath. On all the TR's ive seen the front part of the rear silencer is covered with a guard, on ST's its exposed. On the little seat pad, its green like ST's The engine is painted the same 'mercury grey' style colour The USD's look identical The only difference is frame colour. ST's are white. TR's red. Maybe i have a bike made up from TR's And ST's or in the past someone has upgraded it somehow. Im not bothered about the year, as i know its a good, solid reliable bike.... But it'd be nice to know! Especially if it is a '92' SuperTrial not a '89' TR Thanks again guys! PLEASE KEEP POSTING ANY INFO YOU HAVE!! thanks landrover for the link. ;-)
  20. Thanks for the replies so far!! If it helps... I was told it was a 240 when i bought it, but i have only been able to find tr34's in 260cc?? The rear mudguard that is on it did have a section of red rubber type material bolted to it. This was shorter than my current bodge, as it must havebeen damaged at some time, but the way it was shaped, it fitted right up to the Fibreglass/plastic part exactly, with a moulded step in it, it looked too good just to be another bodge..... does this help? or is it a red herring? THANKS again for all the replies and views.... Maybe I'll find out for sure soon!!
  21. Hi! New to all this trials business! Just purchased a Beta, was told it is a 1989 TR34... Could any of you confirm this for me? The back end of the rear mudguard is CR250 item.... COMPLETE BETA ITEM WANTED!!!!!!!! The tank is fibreglass(??) by Acerbis USD forks confusing me whether is TR34 or no....... Thanks!!
 
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