motovita

I've accepted that I'll need a brake master cylinder on the handlebar and I've learned that operating a clutch and brake lever simultaneously with one hand is far from ideal, so I think I should get an E bike and give up on a clutch. The Escape X looks really good, it's readily available and reasonably priced, but I have one problem with it. The only way I can mount and dismount a full sized motorcycle is to step on one foot peg while on the side stand then swing my leg over, there's no way the Trials type side stand on the EM will support that. If I could ride standing all the time like I used to I'd get a Trials bike, of course if I could do that I'd be able to swing my leg over a motorcycle. It seems like such a silly thing to get between me and a new motorcycle but I can't see a good way around it.

I looked at the Escape XR, I'm impressed with the build quality, the size and configuration were good for me. I didn't bother to ride it in the small paved parking lot. Now I'm wondering if I should get the X, without the clutch. A left hand brake is a must have for me and it would be much nicer to just have one lever up there. Then I started thinking about the Escape R, which I haven't seen, it's only an inch or so lower seat than the XR and that might be an advantage to me in the future but I really want to avoid the monkey on a football feeling that sitting on a Trials bike gives me. The next thing I'm wondering is if I could build some lower footpegs for the bike, my legs are fairly long even though weak. Lots to think about.

I'm going to look at an Escape XR tomorrow. It would be ideal to ride with just right and left brake levers, would it work for me?, that's the big question. I'm trying to picture picking my way up a steep rocky hill without a clutch and I can't envision it. I don't think a short test ride will answer the question since I expect that it would take quite some time for me to learn to ride an e bike.

Thanks guys, I had assumed that the regenerative load would be constant and just wasted in the case of a fully charged battery. In your description the PRBR would have little to no braking effect if the battery was fully charged, that would make it useless as a stand alone brake, I assume that would also be the case with the FRB. I'm currently running a Rekluse left rear brake with the stock clutch (on an enduro bike), which is a compromise, one of the Clake products might be an improvement on that. Now I'm wondering if I could ride an e bike with no clutch and a left rear brake, I really can't fathom how to control a dirt bike without a clutch, although I know there are those who do it. I have no illusions of riding Trials competitions, I just want to ride.

Can anyone here elaborate on the operation of the PRBR? Specifically I'm wondering if it could serve as the sole rear brake, my disability makes a right foot brake useless for me. I've found a couple of online reports of experienced riders removing their clutch levers and using the PRBR lever from the non clutch model and in at least one case removing the rear brake pedal. I really can't imagine riding a dirt bike without a clutch but i have no significant experience with electric bikes.

Yes.

If it's the original carb thats been sucking dirty air through a torn hose it may need replacement, or at least a new slide. b

Were you able to identify your source for the bike? Are you facing possible charges for possessing stolen property?

You might need to certify financial responsibility for that one unless you can find an insurance company that will cover it. I had to do that for a Scorpa.

https://ircmoto.com/products/trial-winner-tr-011-tourist

I had one. If you have some questions that you cant find answers for on the internet I'll try to answer them, and yes you need to post your location if you want to know about availibility.

Back in the day the local Bultaco dealer turned and relined the drums without removing the rim. I think he even did it with a tire in place.

If you're still wondering, yes it's true. When I got my 2020 250 I rode with a friend that had the previous year 250. We swapped bikes and both noticed the difference in flywheel effect. It was a small difference and neither of us thought it was a big deal, it just required a small adjustment by the rider.

As long as they work for you that's all that matters. Personally I'm not a fan of putting non period correct parts on vintage bikes so i wouldn't do it either.

You can buy high strength 428 racing chain that probably exceeds the strength of low grade 520. Look up manufacturers specs online. And TY mono forks are an ENORMOUS improvement over TY175 forks.

That engine case is from a Sherpa Scrambler 125, 68-69 vintage.

I remember sometimes putting my thumb over the overflow hole on the side of the tickler to raise the fuel level even higher in the carb, don't recall which bike(s) I used that trick on.

Where are you located?

I see it now. It was the old style clutch rod adjuster that was fooling me, I'd forgotten about those.

Bear in mind that e bikes are different and require e bike skills. Not to argue your point, but to expect a gas bike rider to jump off his bike onto an e bike and ride up to his gas bike level is unrealistic. In the near future we will see e bike specialists who can ride at very high levels. Kuroyama may be one, he was a top level bicycle and gas bike rider and I believe will be Yamaha's top e bike rider.

You're right, that looks like a bottom pivot kick lever on the original. I've never seen anything like that.

Lokks like a later style rear rim, passenger pegs are a nice touch.

You can certainly learn to negotiate such obstacles but the technique will be somewhat different/modified, so I would say rather than getting hung up on conventional techniques learn to adapt them to your equipment. It can certainly be done. A seat is generally more of a hindrance for turns and descents than climbs.

Those don't look like they'ii fit any Bultaco peg mount I ever saw.

E bikes and EM have advanced quite a bit.