mjb

Wouldn't recommend them mate. I had one on my GasGas 300 and struggled for a good few months to find grip that I was used too. Got an IRC and it felt like a diffrent bike. Saying that I have seen plenty of good riders using them and thye do wear well. I prefer IRC over Michelins because I find they wear slighly better and they are normally a few quid cheaper. Only used a Dunlop once and found it very good but I have heard they can break up if you are doing a road trial. Hence all the Scottish 6 vday guys will be on Michelins.

Is this the place which is free to practice?

I've been running a NGK BPR5EIX plug for a few weeks now, I tweeked the gap for this weekend to give it a go. Verdict - on a fairly warm trial for UK in Feb (12deg) was fine to start with but once again when it was warm stopped the engine whilst I was in a que for 2 minutes and then it took about 30 kicks to start again!!!! I checked the grounds screw, is there only one in the frame near the steering head? Other than starting when warm the bike runs like a dream - no problems at all when it is running. If I do stall it which is rare it starts straight away! Please someone help!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi Tom, As Lowbrow said first I would check your clutch pack height and it might be worth changing your seals at the same time. Good luck! Notice your from Chesterfield/Sheffield way, Do you know of anywhere to practice? I'm from Worksop down the road. Martin

Hi all, I have a GasGas 300 Pro 05 and have trouble starting it after its got warm e.g half way through a trial when the bike is warm and i'm waiting to go into a section and it wont start. I have changed the stator and voltage regulator. I have also adjusted the pick up sensor so its as close as it can be and fitted a lightly bigger choke jet but none of thes have really helped. Am I right to assume that its electrical due to the nature of electrical compoenents? If so is there any way of checking what resistance I should be getting - if you could explain insimple tesrms I'm no Sparky Cheers

Had the same problem on my Pro 05 300. Run the bike for a few minutes so the oil warms up and then drop the oil. That way you can be sure you are getting rid of all the contaminated oil. Then remove the water pump. Drain the coolant by removing the brass screw in the front of the water pump. When you look inside the pump you will see a rotating shaft and seal. More than likely the shaft has worn the seal as the blades of the pump turn the shaft so when you buy a new seal make sure you get a new shaft with it (note its a left handed thread). To remove the seal put the pump casing on a solid flat surface and find a metal rod (or something like that) to put through hole where the brass screw was. Lightly hit with the hammer this apply pressure to the blades inside will eventually release the seal. When fitting the new one best to use an old bit of tubing to hammer it back into the pump housing but not too hard or you will push the blades to close to the inside of the housing and the blades my catch when spinning. If you do dont worry they will soon wear after running few a few hours. Then fill her back up with oil and slowly fill up with coolant to avoid an airblock. If you are ordering the bits to ride this weekend it might be worth ordering new hose clips, they are only a few pence but easing mangled whilst putting them on. Just another word of advice - the contamination of oil seemed to swell the clutch plates making mine really stiff, ended up getting a new clutch assembly. Fingers crossed you wont have to. Cheers Martin

gazzaecowarrior, I've been doing this for years iwth my rear tyres for 2 reasons 1. Its the only way I can get the tyre on the rim with my old compressor. 2. Same experience as you my rim always leaked even after silicone and rim tape. If your really worried that the tube may take some abuse you can always gey a heavy duty inner tube.

Does anyone know of somewhere to practice around the Worksop area? Cheers

Hi All! Does anyone know if the front pipe on a gasser has changed over the years? I've seen a JTX200 1997 front pipe for sale and I was thinking of changing my dented one on my Pro300 2005, any idea if it will fit?

I have the same problem with my 05 Gasgas 300! When it is hot and I stop for a minute or 2 it starts first kick, leave in any longer it needs several kicks and the choke on. Not the end of the world but on a cold day when there is lots of queing it feels like I'm trying to start the bike more than actually riding it. Started with looking at the obvious stuff, plug, plug connector and have ended up changing the stator and voltage regulator. Spoke to Kev at gasgas and he suggested changing the float height as this might be due to when the engine is hot the fuel in the bowl evaporates! Other than the starting it runs really well.