sam_w

Hi Pete The Rekluse automatic clutch is just like the schoolboy trials bike automatic clutches it engages above a certain RPM. You get differnt springs with it to choose where it engages and whether it engages gently or suddenly. There is still a clutch lever to let you slip the clutch but the feel is strange on the standard Rekluse product, the pull gets harder at higher rpm. There is a more expensive pro-version that is supposed to give you a conventional clutch feel at high revs. For trials use I believe that the best method for slow maneouvering is to leave the clutch alone and drag the back brake balanced against the throttle. I can't say that I've fully mastered this yet but it is better than the inevitable engine stalling that I found with the manual clutch when hitting a rock step. The biggest disadvantage is that you lose all engine braking on hill descents and the bike freewheels if you stall it. If you fail to get up a hill-climb you find yourself going backwards at speed unless you're ready for it. I don't know if the trials kit for the T-ride ever materialised.

Hi I've got a T-Ride which I use mainly for road trials but I have ridden a few enduros on it. Generally the T-ride copes OK with tight enduros although as others have said you can bottom the suspension fairly easily. The fork angle is steep on the T-ride and on steep downhills in the wet it is very unstable compared to an enduro bike. I fitted a rekluse automatic clutch to mine which gives the engine a bit more flywheel effect and stops it from stalling when you hit the rocks in rough going. Because of the space taken by the electric starter motor there is no room to fit a bigger conventional flywheel weight like on the SY250F trials bike. Best of luck.

Hi I've had the same problem with an IRC going flat as soon as you hit even the smallest of steps. I switched to a Michelin X-lite and have had no problems. The bike is a Scorpa which is virtually new and the rear wheel is completely true. I took the tyre back to the dealer, BVM, and they admitted that they have had loads of returned IRC tyres. The rumour is that the latest batch of IRCs bought into the UK have some kind of problem. Some are Ok but many aren't.

Just like to say thank you to Pete for putting in the effort to organize this trial. A nice laid back atmosphere, good sections and a good start to the weekend. Shame that we don't have a few more 4 day weekends really - I managed 2 days on the bike and still got all the DIY chores done.

Hi I have had a Scorpa 280 for about 2 months. I will qualify my comments by saying that I'm a 51 year old very average rider not particularly skillful but with 20 odd years experience of riding trials. My 3 previous bikes were Beta Rev3 models but I've also ridden recent Evo and Gas Gas Pro models. Scorpa Good Points: 1. It has a forward weight bias which makes it very easy to steer. I seem to have trouble pushing the front end on a tight turn on the Beta and Gas Gas. The Scorpa is very easy to steer on a tight lock but is not too twitchy at the front. 2. As a consequence of 1. it is relatively easy to hop the back end - not that I can use this technique very effectively. Also as a consequence of 1. it is good at climbing steep hills. 3. The suspension seems to be very good at soaking up rocks and steps without bottoming out. 4. The engine is very grippy but compared to a Rev 3 with a flywheel weight it will break traction if you rev it, you have to back it off to find grip. 5. The quality of components like the swinging arm and the plastics is good. Scorpa Bad Points: 1. Because of the forward weight bias it is a bit harder to float the front end over rocks and you have to consciously move your weight back more to keep the front end light. (2 sides of the same coin). 2. The clip to hold the air-filter in place is very fiddly to use and you do have to be careful not to get water in the airbox when washing the bike. I also find it annoying having to take the rear mudguard off to clean the air-filter. 3. The fuel tap doesn't have a reserve and the off and on positions are counter-intuitive. I'm not sure if this is a general problem but my bike was originally very hard to start when hot. The dealer has changed a number of electrical components including the stator and the regulator which seems to have cured the problem now. Best Regards Sam.

I believe that you have to look at the outside knobs on a trials tyre to see when its worn rather than looking at the tread on the centre knobs. When the outside knobs are rounded then you start to lose grip in the wet especially when trying to turn. When its dry then the tyre wear makes much less difference.

This short video clip shows the C90s in action at the Sphinx trial last Sunday. Chris's machine is already ailing here I'm afraid. Video from Sphinx Trial 2010 Best Regards Sam

I'd just like to agree with Woody's comments. This was a great trial but it was too hard for a lesser rider like me even on a modern bike. A few more easy route deviations for a non championship class would keep us plodders happy and that will keep the organizers happy. After all what is the point of the Wye Valley club members putting all the effort into organizing a trial with fewer riders than there are observers? That could easily be the scenario they are faced with next year. Well done to the Wye Valley club for getting 40 sections manned and all the route marking done by the way. I know from experience how difficult it is to get even 10 observers out to a trial these days!

Just a quick plug for our trial at Hayes Coppice, Monmouth, on Sunday 2nd August. This will be a round of the Western Centre Trials Championship. The trial is right on the England / Wales border just off the A40 but well worth the trip to ride at this spectacular venue. Phone secretary Sam Wilson for more details - 01242 582930.

Here is a Pre-65 sidecar in action. The rider seems to show a bit of promise - might have a future in this sport.

Hi Doogle I've got an 08 T-Ride. It's a good trail bike and is great for tight enduros. Not so good for blast round the fields type enduros because the short wheelbase and steepish fork angle make it a bit unstable at speed over the bumps and the suspension isn't really up to taking big hits at speed. The footpegs are the same height as on an enduro bike but the seat is 2 or 3 inches lower so riding sitting down is a bit cramped, it's much easier to ride it standing up. It is too easy to stall to be good at LDTs although the 09 model has a heavier flywheel which is supposed to make it much better in that respect. I'm trying to get hold of the heavier flywheel for mine. I find that you have to pay attention to the fasteners which seem to work loose fairly quickly but it has been reliable otherwise. It is true what they say in the TBM test that the bike feels lighter than it actually is and it is very flickable compared to an enduro bike. A new T-Ride was over

I rode a Beta 200 for 3 years. It's a great bike for a beginner because when you open the throttle and you are not balanced quite right then you get an extra half second to move and control things compared to a 250 or bigger bike. However it is harder to feel for grip on the 200 compared to a bigger bike.

Hi Look at the ACU western centre website at www.acuwesterncentre.org.uk for events around the area. For clubs not in the ACU you generally need to look in Trials and Motocross News. The West Glos club have a trail bike trial with a novice class for trials bike on Sat 30th May. That event is good fun and not too serious. Best Regards Sam

Hi I went to one of Steve's schools a month ago and I really recommend giving it a go. Steve has such good balance that he can ride a section so slowly it is almost like slow motion. You can clearly see how you should be moving your body position as you move through each turn. Best Regards Sam.

Dan The regs for the Sphinx trial will be on the Western Centre ACU website - www.acuwesterncentre.org.uk. PS I've ridden a few 3 stage trials and they are good fun. Stage 1 will be a circuit of a couple of miles with maybe 10 sections you ride 3 laps with normal trials marking in the sections. Stage 2 is like a timed trial so you ride the same loop with normal trials marking but must finish within a time limit maybe 1 hour for 3 laps and time penalties if late. Stage 3 is like an enduro. You have to ride say 10 laps of the circuit in 1.5 hours but with no marking in the sections and time penalties if late. I've probably made it sound more complicated than it actually is. Give it a go. Can be hard work on a proper trials bike standing up all day though. Regards Sam.

Dan Can I put in a plug for the Cheltenham Homeguard Sphinx long distance trial? I'm a member of the organizing club so obviously I'm biased. The event is around 65 miles and 30 sections mostly 'no inspection'. The event is aimed at trail bikes so sections aren't too difficult. Starts from Hazleton 10 miles east of Cheltenham on the A40. Date Sunday 19th April. The regs will be out in a few weeks. Regards Sam.

Hi Thundercat. I'm not an expert but I remember riding one of those at a test day around 1997 and thinking what a nice bike it was at the time. They are designated a 200 although they are only actually 160cc. The 200 is yellow rather than the 250s which are red. I'm 13 stone and ride a 200 Beta and find that it has plenty enough power for easier sections and a smaller engine makes the bike feel lighter and easier to turn. The Gas Gas is probably a bit sharper than the Beta 200 which is very softly tuned. If you don't think that a 160 has enough power then have a look at what the schoolboys can do on a 125. You only need more power if you are looking at big steps or sections that are thick with gloop. If its in reasonable condition then buy it. I'm sure you'll find it easier to start with than a bigger bike. Best Regards Sam.

Hi everybody I bought a Scorpa T-ride in September and have now done some trail riding and ridden one Long Distance Trial and one Enduro on it. I wanted a bike to do both types of events for fun and it is a good compromise for this. Here are a few notes - The bike is pretty good as a LDT bike but the pegs are a bit higher than bikes like a Beta Alp and the engine is a bit quick to rev so you do need to be careful with the throttle. I know that Nigel Birkett (the UK importer) is looking at offering a flywheel kit which would be ideal for LDTs as it will stall if you let the engine lug down to low revs under load. For enduros the bike has enough ground clearance to stop getting stuck in the ruts and it has enough power to ride at a reasonable pace. You can fit scramble tyres OK. The bike is twitchy compared to an enduro bike especially going downhill in ruts. The nice thing is that the low centre of gravity and soft power delivery (for an enduro bike) doesn't tire you out on slippery going like a true enduro bike such as the Yam WR250F I had previously. Because the pegs are high and the seat is lowish the bars are never quite at the right height for sitting down and standing up. I've put on bars which are an inch or so higher than standard and this is good for riding standing up. Generally the bike works better standing up everywhere if you can manage it. The bike had a few engine mods when I bought it - exhaust restrictor removed, air injection removed, rejetted and the engine runs very nicely. I think that if you want to do any speed events then it's not worth bothering with a heavier flywheel. Overall I'd say the T-Ride is a great crossover bike. It's perfect for a three stage trial but is probably not the bike you need if you are expecting to win an LDT or expecting to win an Enduro. Cheers Sam.