tsr22b

bad news! your swinging arm bolt is seized in the spacer that runs between the pin and the swinging arm bushes. You will need to get a hacksaw blade between the swinging arm and the frame and saw through the swinging arm bolt to get the swinging arm out. You can then replace the bushes and you will obviously need a new pin and spacer. Trail and Trial Uk do a kit and i think its around

hi, the book says sae30. (not multi grade). I got a ltr of sae 30 from a lawn mower shop and it works very well.

yes it is possible. the people who do the powder coating will shot blast the frame first, this will take off most of the chrome anyway and clean up ready for the powder coat. Quite a few gassers had really bad chrome on the frames and the rust came through quite quickly. I t will be a lot lot cheaper than a re-chrome. Ask the place that is doing it for some sample colours to look at, they might even have some things in they have just done.

Cruise around the trading estates, a lot of pallets are non returnable and some companies will be only too glad to get rid of them.- Honestly. As for cable drums, do you know anyone who works for BT or one of the electricity companies? They usually have odd empty drums kicking about in the yard. You just have to be brave and go and ask. Hope this helps.

If you have two wires on your kill switch connect the one to earth and the other to the LT (Low Tension) terminal of the ignition coil. This is the small flat spade terminal and will already have a wire on it coming from the points, so you will now have two wires on the LT terminal. The ignition coil is under the petrol tank.

You can buy them through the AMCA or from Castrol competitions department. (sorry dont know the number but should come up on google) They are not plain wire but slightly springy so they clip the card tight. cost about 50p each but get cheaper on quantity.

A couple of points here, a good condenser is open circuit when measured with an ohm-meter. If they short circuit you will get no spark at all. This problem sounds like a faulty ignition (flywheel magneto) coil. What happens is the coil breaks one of its windings over time, usually through an internal short which has always been there.. At first this is not a problem because the electricity produced can jump the very very small gap. Because there is a gap to jump, heat is produced and burns a small amount of copper, so the gap gets bigger. Eventually the coil fails because the gap cannot be jumped for one of two reasons, either the gap is too big or as normally happens the coil gets hot and loses efficiency and cannot produce enough current to jump the gap. When the coil cools its effficiency is restored. Just check and see if thewre is a dark brown patch on the insulation somewhere, indicating an internal short. In any case, substitution is the easiest way, its only a five minute job on a Bantam. Hope this helps.

Perhaps we could have a bit more info? How does it run above tick over? If it runs ok above quarter throttle i would suggest having another look at the pilot jet, also disconnect the kill switch just in case it is shorting out. Air filter clean? And finally, and sometimes the least obvious, try a NEW spark plug.

Most people use solvol to polish ally, but there is another product called Belgom Alu which is a white liquid in a blue plastic bottle. The difference is the Belgom has some kind of clear wax in it which helps to keep the aluminium bright for longer. Aluminium produces its own protective coating by oxidisation, however this oxidised coating gives the dull grey colour which doesn't look pretty which is why we are polishing regularly!. Magnesium however is a different kettle of fish. It can look like aluminium when polished but if left open to the elements it will corrode rapidly, especially if it is left wet or dirty. This is why some ty250 side casings look like they have been eaten away. Magnesium should really be painted or laquered. (your fork bottoms are aluminium). Hope this helps.

Paid the extra fiver to get in at 9, unfortunately that only let us in to the outside autojumble, not the inside stands. (Wrighty did explain this before he let us in,) but i think some were under the impression it was to get in the whole show. No parking probs at 9am, only criticism was that there seemed to be a hell of a lot less autojumble stands than there were at Malvern last year, and there was a rumour going round that twenty-odd jumblers were turned away because there was no space. Oh, and one other niggle, is it really necessary to rev the nuts of a race bike in a shed full of people? Hurts the ears a bit!

Removing two clutch springs would cause the pressure plate to rise unevenly when the clutch is pulled in. This could cause the clutch to drag and will cause uneven clutch plate wear. Yamaha put six springs in there for a reason, and they have been making motor bikes for a long time! Best thing to do is as Woody says and lengthen the arm on the under side of the engine. First of all though make sure your existing components are good like the lever, actuating arm and cable. You may find one of these is causing the heavy clutch, especially a badly routed cable. I dont find the clutch heavy on a ty 250 and to be honest once in the section its best left alone- for me anyway. Use it if you are in trouble, but i would suggest as a very last resort, but this is down to individual riding stile. Some can clutch in a section to their advantage, others clutch and fall off, some dont go near the clutch at all. If you watch a lot of twin shock or no stop rule trials you will usually see some riders with a finger or two covering the clutch lever just in case!

I think we may have been talking cross purposes here! the Lucas capacitor i think you are refering to is the one (from memory )about an inch and three quarters round and about two inches long, type 2MC electrolytic, used in the Lucas energy transfer ignition systems to replace the battery on competition bikes. This is a different system to a flywheel magneto ignition as found on a bantam and a large number of old 2 stroke bikes with points, but works more like a car ignition system where the energy for the ignition coil comes from a battery, or in your case a capacitor. The bike's alternator charges the capacitor in the same way as it would charge a battery. If you have points though you will still have the other capacitor in the primary circuit, or, as it is maybe more commonly known, a condenser. The 2MC will actually discharge when the points OPEN because this is the point where the primary circuit of the ignition coil gets its charge from the capacitor, passes it in to the ignition coil secondary winding where it builds up energy and dissipates across the plug gap. The clever thing about a capacitor is that it has the abilty to charge and discharge very very quickly hence it is just about always storing electricity- like a battery. Hope this clears up the misunderstanding!

The capacitor is there to stop the points arcing and wearing or pitting when they open by storing the small amount of stator energy that tries to jump across the points gap when they open. It has nothing to do with the spark at the plug. The stator windings produce electricity which goes (when the points are open) to the primary winding in the ignition coil which then transfers (it is a transformer) to the secondary winding to produce the spark at the plug. The time the points open determines when the spark occurs.(hence the term "timing".) The capacitor is discharged every time the points close. Kicking the bike over cannot increase the charge in the capacitor as it discharges on every rotation. A failed capacitor can stop the spark at the plug if it shorts out the stator to earth, usually because the dielectric material it is made of fails internally.

Tighten the spindle nut first, with the fork clamp nuts just loose enough for the split spacer to slide sideways,- this pulls everything in to line, then tighten up the spindle clamp nuts on the bottom of the fork leg.

It wont be the idle jet, that only controls fuel at tickover anyway. If the flywheel key had sheered it wouldn't start at all, or if it did it would just run very badly. You cant get enough air in through a leaky rubber to cause the engine to scream, dont forget when you close the throttle you close the air off with the slide and shut the fuel off with the needle at the bottom of the slide. Do you still have the problem in the workshop? Can you remove the airbox and look in to the carb and make absolutely sure the slide is going down when the throttle is shut off? Carb freezing is a plausible reason, i have known moisture in an airbox be sucked in to the carb and causing the slide to freeze. Air entering the carb is sucked in, so it is colder. The colder the weather, the worse the problem can become. hope this helps.

Hi, this looks very much like a compression problem. Head and barrel off and check the rings, one may even be stuck in the ring groove. Stuff a rag down the crankcase before lifting the barrel right off in case you have a broken ring. That way the bits wont fall in the crankcase. Incidentally the other cure mentioned about taking the plug out and kicking it over a few times purges the crankcases of unburnt fuel. Nothing to do with the electrics, i would suggest. Just thought also may have a coked up exhaust port. Again this can be scraped out when the barrel is off. hope this helps.

Hi, this looks very much like a compression problem. Head and barrel off and check the rings, one may even be stuck in the ring groove. Stuff a rag down the crankcase before lifting the barrel right off in case you have a broken ring. That way the bits wont fall in the crankcase. Incidentally the other cure mentioned about taking the plug out and kicking it over a few times purges the crankcases of unburnt fuel. Nothing to do with the electrics, i would suggest. Just thought also may have a coked up exhaust port. Again this can be scraped out when the barrel is off. hope this helps.

Come on guys, we can complain all day about ramblers,mountain bikers, noisy neighbours, noisy dogs, etc, but until we put our own house in order we can't expect anyone to listen. Noise is a BIG issue. We are making the noise. No one likes noise- unless you are making the noise yourself, so there is intolerance all round. Its not anti-biker, its anti noise. Fair play to the majority of modern trials bike manufacturers,- when they come out of the factory the bikes are very quiet compared with a four stroke moto cross or enduro bike, so i dont think the problem is led by the trials scene, but how many of us has had our neighbour call round, see the trials bike and say " oh, you do scrambling do you?" The problem is we are all tarred with the same brush. The anti socials who ride all over the mountains on the weekends have done nothing to promote motor cycle sport. Neither have the manufacturers of mx/ enduro after market exhausts with outragous power gain claims. (four strokes are the worst because low frequency sound travels further). Getting back to the point though, we must each do our bit to reduce the noise we make. Re-pack your silencers, stop buying aftermarket noisy exhausts, cut out any un-necessary riding before or after the meeting, stop the illegal riding alltogether and generally put forward a responsible image. Most of us try to, i know. We just need to educate some. Complaining about what others do and don't do though wont get us anywhwere. Lets try and get our own house in order. Its probably too late but it is better to try rather than one day to say, "i wish........." Oh and by the way, landowners are reluctant to allow you on their land for two reasons, one is the public liability, tho other, and probably the main one, is HE gets the complaints about the noise.

Hi mashman, just to clarify this a little, his ACU licence does not give him any insurance cover in itself, but if he enters a trial organised by an ACU affiliated club then part of the entry fee will be for third party liability cover AT THAT EVENT. The insurance also indemnifies the landowner. If you have an ACU handbook, which you should have been sent when your son got his licence, you will find a chapter on insurance which will explain all this. If you haven't got one, and mine hasn't come this year yet either, phone Rugby and ask them to send you one. Hope this helps.

Just picking up on something you mentioned about the previous owner retarding the timing, If the ignition is retarded the engine will knock under load, just like low octane fuel will. Also, just to confirm, the airscrew, or mixture screw as it is sometimes called, is only effective on tickover. As soon as you open the throttle, the slide controls the air in the carb. I would suggest you put the ignition timing back to the correct factory setting.

Hi kimpybugalugs, Could i suggest that if your ty is running well at the moment that you make a note of all your present carb settings before changing the reed valves. Count the number of turns on the mixture screw,(count the number of turns clockwise until it bottoms; do not over tighten(!) then count back out the same to return the screw to its original position, check the throttle slide and make a note of which groove the needle clip is in and write down the sizes of the main and pilot jets. This way you can return everything to original if you have to. Its easy to forget where things were once you start swapping jets, adjusting the mixture screw, etc etc. If you find carburation a bit of a black art then at least you can get back to where you started! I have not fitted boyesen reeds myself so i cant comment on any adjustments etc in that respect. Hope this helps.

In response to Tony's comment, yes i agree,-assuming someone hasn't put a 175 barrel and piston on a 125 , what you said should identify the bike. Incidentally one of my 175 engine numbers is 525 and nothing else. This bike spent most of its life in Japan and was recently imported.

Hi Martin, look at the barrel on the clutch cable side. The cylinder capacity is cast in the aluminium between the bottom two fins close to the reed block flange.

Hi, when you say the throttle opens and closes as normal when the engine is running wild, can you actually see this? i.e. by looking into the carb mouth when it happens? Is the slide actually going down when the throttle is closed off, or is it sticking? Also check that the needle clip in the slide is in place properly and the needle is not lifting on its own. The needle should be fixed to the slide or held down by the throttle return spring. I doubt if you would have been able to set the carb up properly if there was a big air leak anywhere. When it goes nuts does it correct itself almost immediately or do you have to wait a while for everything to cool down? If it cures immediately then the slide is sticking or the needle is lifting on its own. If it takes a while then something is contracting when it cools and stopping the air leak. hope this helps.