markshelley

Got the bike back today having had the bottom end rebuilt and took it out to run it in. My lad experienced a manual clutch for the first time and got on very well, better than I did when I got my FS1E 32 years ago! If anyone knows of any land in the Huntingdon/Cambridge area where he can ride I would be very grateful. At the moment we are taking it down some unadopted fen roads nearby but there will no doubt be someone who comes along to spoil the fun eventually.

On a modern one I can understand, but surely the older ones would be fine as there is a seat in a place pretty much where a seat should be? It is all on B roads and I could detour and do half of it off road on farm tracks if I wished.

I have got my lad a lovely Whitehawk TY80. I have a few road bikes but I fancy getting something to follow him around on. I also like classic bikes. I have had a bit of a google and at the moment I am erring towards a TY250, preferably with V5 so I could also use it to commute the 10 miles to work when the roads are dodgy. I also love the look of old Bultacos though. Any recommendations?

I was lucky enough to catch an early Whitehawk TY80 just as it was listed on ebay a couple of weeks ago with a buy it now price. It is such a pretty and well engineered thing. It had a top end rattle which I thought was the little end, but it is currently having a new big end fitted (see my posts in the Yamaha section). It is in extremely good condition, but I am Getting a hankering to fully restore it. I will try to resist this as I bought it for my lad to actually use.

My mechanic confirmed my suspicions and I have left it with him to sort out. He told me a bout the crank being pressed together. I should get it back a couple of weeks into the New Year.

I am going to pop the bike to the mechanic I use for him to examine it tomorrow hopefully. I will let you know what he reckons.

I have posted this problem on another forum (for RG/RGV Suzukis, as I have one of them also) and one of the guys says that lateral movement is not necessarily an indication that anything is wrong. He suggested checking up and down movement perpendicular to the crankshaft. I actually done this yesterday and there did not SEEM to be any movement in that direction, but the rocking from side to side was so great I just can`t believe it is OK. It almost feels like the conrod has a universal joint connection to the crankshaft!

Thanks for that advice. I will try it this evening, but my guess is that it will be way over 25 thou as it must be waggling 5-10mm at the little end end. I have a CD manual in the post and I am thinking I may have a go at fixing it myself. Is it a very difficult job to split the engine and change the big end bearing? Are any special tools required? Does anything else need to be done at the same time? I have already decided that if I do the bottom end I am going to have a 0.5mm rebore and new piston kit. May as well go the whole way!

I have a horrible feeling my top end rebuild may become a bit more extensive! I took the barrel and piston out today and there is lots of lateral (left to right, as you sit on the bike) movement of the con rod. It is very wobbly. Surely that is not right? I am guessing you are all going to tell me my big end is shot and probably the crank as well.

I whipped off the head today and the marking on the piston crown were (as you sit on the bike) the arrow pointing to the front, a letter g on the left hand side and the letters 25 on the bottom. Looking at available piston sizes I assume this means it is 0.25mm oversize.? The bore is in perfect condition. Am I ok just doing the little end bearing with piston pin and circlips or MUST I do rings also?

I know some bikes are OK and some aren`t on premix. My old T500 had to use the autolube as the oil was fired directly onto bearings. Is premix ok on a TY80?

I am going to do a precationary top end rebuild on my new TY80 as there is a very sligth top end rattle. Presumably it will be pretty much the same as the one I done to my FS1E about 32 years ago! Are there any things I need to look out for? If it has been rebored will it normally be stamped on the barrel to say what size? I will be doing piston, rings, little end, gudgeon pin and circlips. Anything I have missed? How long does it need to be run in for?

Hi, I am new on here and have just purchased a TY80 for my lad which is in very nice condition. The first of what will probably be many question is;- The rubbery plastic threaded cap for the crankcase oil filler does not incorporate a dipstick which I am guessing it should do as there does not appear to be any other way to check oil level. Should it have one? If so, do you check the level with it screwed in fully or just resting on the crankcase?