wayne_weedon

We all do crazy things I guess, it just got to me because I'm so passionate about Bultaco's. I suppose it's one less now which makes own own B models even scarcer : Doesn't help that whoever did it chose to ruin one of the most desirable/rarest Bultaco's out there. I have got a M49 Sherpa here which has had the frame cut about in an unsuccessful attempt to fit a British 4 Stroke engine, I bought it like that mainly because the frame had a log book, plus I paid peanuts for it, 45 pounds I recall. But that's a much more common chassis. Wayne....

Could be, but did they also have the Box Section swinging arm I can't honestly remember. Wayne...

That frame and swing arm is from a 340 Six Speeder, probably one of the scarcer models even in it's day. Wayne...

Just spotted this. Why oh why do this to a Bultaco 199B? link I'm stunned! Seeing as a nice 199B made 2500 gbp on evilbay recently I'm wondering what this will make now. Nowhere near the value of an unbutchered 340 I'm sure, but you can never tell. I guess he could started with just a frame and running gear as its not got the correct tank. Wayne...

Just another member of my neglected fleet. Well I bought it a long time ago (c.1995) and done sweet FA with it. Started it once only. But it's due some attention when my 340 Sherpa is pretty again. Always was the intention to look into restoring it, but you know what it is with round tuits ! Being out of the scene for a long while had a lot to do with it. Wayne...

Haha I know where you are coming from. We were reminiscing today about those days, I would often be there most of a Saturday afternoon, and <cough> never once paid retail price for anything <cough> We both carried on doing business together even after those days, in fact I think he called me the day he left to ensure he'd have access to what I do, and he did for years after. I don't find the Montesa's too bad to work on, Ossa's on the other hand I find fussy to put together right. Wayne....

Jeff Laughed when I told him Woody says "Your a very very nice man!" He seemed to know who you were. I'll probably be where you are in a couple of months when I start work on my 330. In the meantime my 340 Sherpa has my total attention. Wayne...

"Seemed Light" Compared to any of my Twinshock bikes

Not really, it can be a nightmare getting the spindle out if it's stuck though! I just did the job on my 340 Sherpa tonight in fact, typically absolutely seized in the rear engine mount. I got it all out with no damage to frame or rear mount, but I do have the luxury of a fully equipped machine shop. Mine are being replaced with a trick mod I've recently finished developing I had to drill right through the centre of the spindle (From Each end) and only just broke through the O/D when as deep as the engine mount. Wayne.....

Hmm Not pretty! Looks like it's gone through the case hardening in the deepest pits. It may be a result of condensation more than large amounts of water in the gearbox. My main worry would be that the case hardening is now compromised and may start shedding hard debris. You are probably right to look out for replacement gears. Wayne...

I saw but not rode one of these little Scorpa Fourstrokes (175??) at a trial today, stating the bleeding obvious I know but what a lovely little bike, very quiet, seemed light. The rider was a novice but seemed happy with it, if I was not such a Twinshock devotee I'd go for one. Wayne...

Ouch! and that listing said something about 5 years?? This whole decal thing seems to be a bit of a scam these days. Of course it's much easier for just about anyone to get the gear to do it now. I remember over a decade ago getting a smallish batch of Bultaco 199A decals made locally at a proper printing company with UV Varnished coating. They cost a bomb even though I created the 4:1 Artwork, Still got it in fact. They were good decals though! Wayne...

I speak to him a lot, so I will do that. Yes he's also got a brilliant memory for all this stuff, and even though he can no longer see to use his knowledge in a practical way he's still got it! Mind not many people have constantly worked with this stuff from aged 14 to nearly 50, so he ought to know a thing or two! Wayne...

Just checked with my old pal Jeff B, and yes they did but not totally necessary. Also the 3 lower screws on the primary cover originally had O rings. Wayne...

I seem to recall they do, at least under the lower bolts. But then it's been a while since I worked on such an early cota. Wayne...

It may just be possible. Not certain the 123 and 172's had any boost ports machined in the back of the piston. In the old days you could go search through the data in a Hepolite catalogue and find something close enough to be modified. Of course these days it's digital and you'd be hard pressed to find such a catalogue. It still is likely to be a long shot as there are several criteria to meet. Bore obviously, Gudgeon pin Diameter, Crown Height, Crown Radius, Skirt Length(s), Transfer cutouts, Ring Pin positions etc etc. I would suggest looking on www.ebay.es as there still seems to be people with genuine parts in Spain. Wayne.....

No it wont! But you have already discovered the hot air gun is your friend! You know I have had two of those in the last 20 odd years and I think I may have only tried to strip paint with one once! Invaluable tool for fitting and extracting bearings. You may find that with enough heat around the housing, possibly from the back you will be able to make it just drop out. At worst with the assistance of tapping the back of the housing with something thats not going to damage it. Or in the oven with the whole thing and just let gravity work for you, It does work usually. Wayne....

For re-assembling a crank you will need obviously a decent press, some decent parallels. and a truing fixture (Knife edge type) with DTI to test for runout. and a copper/hide hammer of the Thor variety. Press the halves only partially together to start with (Just a few mm) You can get the thing quite close with a decent engineers square by checking at several points around the flywheels. You really need to get the whole thing having minimal runout at this early stage as it's very difficult to make the flywheels budge when fully pressed home. Just take your time. Wayne...

Steve Are they really that bad that you have to replace the internals? How badly pitted are the parts? Wayne....

I think (IF I'm reading the original post correctly?) That he's snapped the anodised alloy bolt. These are not really high tensile compared to the stock screws even if they are 7075-T6 alloy, and probably should not be used in this application. Responsible traders in these fasteners always state they should not be used in safety critical areas, and Yokes are right up there after brakes probably! They are more suited to low stress areas like attaching plastics. Wayne....

There are some JCM parts of ebay UK at the moment including a Motoplat stator. The guy has done an odd thing though and listed the upper and lower crankcases as separate items! Hope if they sell they go to the same person Being machined as pairs n all! Still wonder why more manufacturers don't do horizontally split cases. Wayne...

It seems to have found it's own value, but who knows what will happen towards the end! 510 after 5 bids can't really be worth much more surely? Wayne...

Tank looks like one of the early Miller GRP efforts. I have one on my 199A just so I don't risk damaging the Ally tank which is pristine. They are a bit Jelly Mold like though, and the cap is crap! Wayne..

Got a lathe or know someone with one? Turn up a bush with a bore the same diameter (or a few thou smaller) of the damper rod. and about twice that in outside diameter in brass or ally. Cut it in half with a hacksaw down it's length as close to equal about centre as you can. Clamp the rod in a vice or even molegrips using the bush to protect the shaft. Clamp it up close under the shock end. If it still slips as a last resort clamp again with some 400 wet or dry paper against the rod to make the bush more grippy. Wayne....