Greeves did an enduro version of the Pathfinder for which the engine characteristics were far better suited to, than for trials. I had a trials Pathfinder in 1979 and found it reasonably lightweight but fell far short of 'modern' trials bikes such the TY175 that I bought to replace the Greeves. My advise would be to put a DT175 engine in there.
I rebuilt my 59 Scottish wheels but did not make any note about offset-I just built em with new spokes that were exact copies of the rusty originals. They are way harder to build than bicycle wheels as the rim must be in the right position-it's hard to elaborate on this suffice to say that you'll know if you've laced it up wrong. Probably best to search the web for more specific instructions. This will save a huge amount of time. I wasted half a day messing about until I got it right.
Thanks lowbrow. For anyone mystified by this posting I can explain. I have been after a 160cc JTR barrel and head for some time and came across this modified barrel on eBay listed as having been modified with a steel liner-presumably because the original plated surface had worn. I have Identified the piston supplied as Yamaha YZ100 so whether this was a known modification or a one-off is unsure. It would be interesting to see if it actually works okay as a trials engine!!. Ports in barrel line up perfectly with the steel liner so whoever did the mod knew what they were doing!. I'm looking for a reed valve block and inlet stub if anyone can help?.
Just bought what appears to be a Gasser 125/160 water cooled barrel that looks like its been sleeved down to 80cc, that is, it's got a steel liner and a piston measuring 50mm across and a single dikes ring. Has anyone reading this heard of this conversion ?
Hi Nick
Hope you get it back. I used to work in a bike shop (AVC in Bath) that sold secondhand bikes and that';s where a lot of crooks tried to offload stolen stuff. I know there's one or two shops that might be worth telling in the Bristol area and also look in places like Trade-It and fleebay for clues as a lot of dodgey stuff turns up in those-specially motorbikes listed as 'field bike'. Anyhow, good luck!
Should be 12" on a Greeves but who's quibbling with an extra 1/2"!!. I have new NJB shocks on my Scottish and can concur that they are a huge improvement on the Armstrong's that I had on there before. I think this can be attributed to the lighter spring rate but also the damping works in both directions (only worked on rebound on the 50 year old Armstrong's).
Sorry to sound vague here but I can't remember what the Electrex instructions said now as it was 18 months ago when I fitted the kit to my 31a engine. I used a dial gauge (on the flywheel) and degree gauge (to determine exact top dead centre). The whole thing was pretty easy to do only the engine refused to start if I went a couple of degrees either side of the reccomendations.
I've got the Electrex too on my '59 Greeves 250 and with the 4.5Kg (heaviest) weight. Great throu sections and picks up from next to nothing but I've never had points on the bike to compare it with.
I have been riding my Greeves Scottish TAS for a year now with the Villiers S22 carb and have changed over to a Mikuni VM28 as the Villiers was p____g fuel everywhere and it's never been that great due perhaps to wear or lack of use - I've only got to leave the bike a couple of weeks and something playes up like the clutch dragging or the carb running weak. Can someone please advise on the needle jet size for the Mikuni as this new carb is causing severe detonation in the midrange - this is nothing to do with the ignition setting as the bike is excellent through trials sections and off the bottom end, it's just that I ride a lot on the road and need to get this sorted before the engine seizes again. Allen's couldn't advise on supplying me with a needle jet with smaller holes (for a richer mixture) and while this will probably do the trick I'm asking if there is anyone out there who has already played with the jetting on this setup?? Probably unlikely but I'd thought I'd ask anyway.....
Hi
I've been having the same problem on a Villiers 250 engine fitted with electronic ignition and a Mikuni 26mm carb (got fed up with the 'proper' Villiers carb p____g fuel everywhere. Pulls off the Bottom end beautifully but 'tinkles' loudly in the midrange (road work) and is very flat. Pressing the choke lever down cures this but the engine fluffs when the revs drop. I've been given the phone number of a specialist called Allens Carbs 01934 836733. Not had time to contact them yet but looking to reduce the flow of air through the emulsion tube (the bit that the needle moves through) in order to richen the mixture. Hope this phone number helps.
Paul
Don't have a w/shop manual but would be glad to offer advise on setup. My '59 Greeves took far longer to piece together than the other 37 bikes I've owned but it turns more heads!!. Off topic: I just wish I could work out how to put an image of the bike on this forum using photo hosting. I'm trying to upload from Photobucket. It seems inordinately complicated and unclear.
My '59 Greeves Scottish is running fine now after much ado, but fuel still slops all over the tank (steel one) and my trousers when riding offroad. It has a new filler cap but it still leaks. Is this a common ailment and is their an effective solution ?.
Cheers
Paul
Just got my Greeves Scottish on the road (actually a 250 TAS with a 37a wide gear cluster) but having problems with the clutch lever coming back to the handlebar when riding in slow traffic and a bad bunt oil/metal smell. One thing that struck me as odd was that there is a 1/16th inch end float in the clutch shaft. I have followed assembly of the gearbox to the official Villiers drawings so I'm baffled. I would be really greatful of some advise as there doesn't seem to be any useful info relating to assembly of these engines on the web.
Cheers in anticipation..
Does anyone know if the Villiers 33a 250cc cylinder head works okay for trials?. The plug thread is longer than the 32a from what I can tell and the squish band gives higher compression.
Electrex ignition sorted in the end and enjoying my first ride on the bike in 30 years albeit with a fuel tank borrowed from the lawn mower!. To update on this- I also had some hassles with the captive nut on the Electrex rotor bottoming out of the 9E cranks before it was tight on the taper (Not a fluke as I tried three separate 9E cranks). The solution was to get Electrex to send me a captive nut with a chamfer on the inside face. I now just need a steel fuel tank to finish the job. Does anyone know the whereabouts of a 1959 Greeves Scottish tank - dented or otherwise ?.
Can anybody please tell me how to get the rubber bushes back into the eyes of the shocks ?. They were removed before I bought them from a vendor at a jumble.
Cheers
Thanks for the advise guys. Further to this - do the selector forks need to be positioned so the the 'windows' align with the holes in the selector drum ?. If this doesn't make much sense I'll take some photo's.
Hi all
Does anyone know where I can get a schematic diagram of how to assemble a villiers 4 speed gearbox (36a) as I have wasted a huge amount of time getting it wrong-I can only select 2 gears and you have to stamp on the gearlever to get them.
Hi
Thanks for the reply. I've been in touch with Electrex who are baffled by the situation. The gearbox has got to come out as it is leaking like a sieve and I've only got two gears when I prod the gearchange lever, so I'm separating it from the engine and taking it to the Telford show so that they can have a look at the timing. Should have stuck to Japanese bikes in the first place-eh!
Hi all
I'm new to the forum. Looking for a 1953 Royal Enfield 125cc 3-speed gear cluster or parts to complete a gear cluster . Can anybody help ?.
Cheers
