mrb505

I agree its not the right flywheel but it looks like a Femsa one that was fitted to early Bultaco's , riveted centre instead of later one piece flwheel, it should have a stamp around the circumference The 159 and most 325's from m92 on should be stamped Femsa VAR 41-52 and would weigh about 2.8 kg, the VAR 41-51 on some 250's weighs about 1.7 kg but it also does not have the rivets. The nut in the photo does look like its protruding more than normal it should be about 8 mm so maybe it does have a extra washer or the key may not be sitting right

I don't know if I'm looking at it different but I can't see any advantage having the different locater for the pin on the shoes rather than the original Bultaco offset style if it is shimmed properly so it can't move sideways, the advantage of the other shoe is lost without a larger cam which to me looks a lot of work to get the cam central on the shoe cam plate using the Bultaco backing plate. BRT whats wrong with Bultaco brakes anyway just pull a bit harder. You really should get rid of that HHHHonda its making you soft.

Have a close look around where the choke is mounted there is usually a small number stamped on a flat there or on the mounting flange. I have one that looks the same as yours which has worked well on a couple of m49's I think it is off a Yamaha (CT1?) it has 248 stamped on it which corresponds with the intake throat opening 24.8mm.There is also A2 stamped but I have no idea what that means.

Just back to the top clamp if you look at the m80 in Historia de la Sherpa T you will see it still has the U bolt arrangement for the handlebar clamp and I've seen other m80's with the u bolt so maybe they changed somewhere at the end of m80's production or at the start of m91/92. My m49 (no.4004 from memory) has been changed has been changed to the later top clamp like a lot others because of the fragility of the original U bolt sysrem. Also mine has the lugs on the frame to fit the Kit Campeon but as Woody says they were only a kit that you buy for the m49's in 1970 in the run up to the m80 which was introduced in April 1971 although I've heard they still had some m49's to get rid of up to 1972 as most buyers wanted the newer style. By the way m80 and m85 Alpina footrest brackets are the same as the later m49 brackets so they may be easier to find if you want it to look original. Finally the m49 are one of the best Sherpa's made such a nice relaxing bike to ride they will do most things the later Sherpa's will do. I just love mine which is standard apart from rear shocks.

The only model Sherpas that came out with the banana or boomerang are the 124/125, Alpinas around the same year 1974 had them as well

Yes 27.5 OD

Wait a minute I just went and had a look at my M183 clubfoot, number on it is 13717-043 and I'm pretty sure it is the original one. The Bultaco parts book says it should be 15917-043 and the 250 should be 12217-043 so maybe the 137/159/183/191 clubfoot were all the same http://sherpamanuels...bel/2.16 Escape

13717-043 would be a Alpina clubfoot. On the Soler models the front pipe/ middle box are the same on 250/350 models, its only the coupling to the cylinder that is different. The clubfoot is a different part no. but I think is only a different in the length of pipe where it joins the middle box as the frames are not the same.

There is a parts book online here http://sherpamanuelsoler.blogspot.com.au/

M49 conrod dimensions are 116mm centres, 18mm big end pin, I can't find the small end pin but the opening is 19mm I think the rod changed around M91 The only other rod I have here for comparison is a M183 which is 116 centres, 24mm big end, 20mm small end pin PS I only roughly measured the centres

I agree with Feetup looks like a fairly original M16 Mk2 Matador Have a look here http://cemoto.tripod.com/bultaco.htm

http://sherpamanuels...l/2.10%20Cambio Have you made sure every thing is assembled like the diagram in the link click on the diagram to enlarge it. Make sure behind the sprocket in order you have 43 oil seal, 21 distance bush with collar towards the bearing, 17 o'ring if its assembled this way with the seal and o'ring in good condition oil will not leak from the bearing, its unlikely that the distance bush has had a groove cut into it by the oil seal but check it anyway. The only other place it can leak is from the little seal 45 that seals the mainshaft 1 from the sleeve gear 6 (the splined part your sprocket goes onto) All the seals and o'ring are accessible without splitting the cases The diagram is from the 159 parts book but should be the same for later models. (Hi bullylover just noticed we posted at the same time)

13x 46 is standard for a 198/199 very close to 11x 39 in the later models, 3.55 -3.54, I like standard sherpa gearing as long as its in good tune. 11x 48 would make 1st very low http://www.sprocketcalculator.com/ I find this useful in calculating sprockets

Well, fell off on the Sherco hill track broke the clutch lever perch then because I kept riding without the clutch, the clutch centre key broke so then the M49 was impossible to start, pushed it out of the scrub (jungle) to the nearest main track, Greg went and got his Suzuki tray top and we took it back to his place, got home about 11pm. But yeah apart from all that it was a pretty good ride.

Andrew, Supercheap have rattle guns for $20 at the moment I bought one for home a couple of years ago and it hasn't flown apart yet although I don't use it very often.They are great for undoing stubborn nuts but you need the right size 6 cornered sockets as they hammer on more surface area of the nut, normal sockets you run the risk of taking the corners of the nut off. Best to use a good quality torque wrench to do the nuts up though. Bearings for one don't like them and its impossible to get the right torque

This link here http://www.trialmc.c...arcos/base.html is usually got some original looking bikes just click on Bultaco on the left and then the map of Spain most models come up although the writing is in Spanish

Andrew KT250 bars from fred&debs NZ are a good quality old fashioned bend and reasonably priced $45?+post ( thanks David Lahey for originally suggesting them) they are the bars on my 325 Sherpa that you have ridden, can't measure them at the moment as I'm back in Wilcannia but will when if I get back

If you are finding it hard getting a barrel http://www.ebay.com.au:80/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140728110681&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1123 Maybe someone can tell me is the later 199 barrel the same as the 159-191,as in do they still have 159 stamped in the the top and if they are different what is the difference

I guess its a club trial 1 Little Johny give the kid a break no penalty (sounds like it should be no penalty even if it wasn't Little Johny) 2 Big Mick probably rides just for fun and maybe a beer afterwards no penalty 3 Nobby takes his riding seriously (a stop and flick) 5

This castrol product description is worth reading before using it in a trials bike My link

Hi Andrew, On Bultaco's I heat the bottom clamp around where the stem fits in then knock the stem out suppose it would work on a Montesa as well Cheers Ross

Yes I'd say the spring is fitted it would be hard to see the spring as it is recessed into the ratchet and fully compressed at that stage. If the spring wasn't there the ratchet cam wouldn't be pushed up against the keeper guide

Put your outside spring on then turn the shaft about half a turn then fit the ratchet on the spline so it just slides on past the keeper then release the shaft Make sure you put the shim on after the kickstart gear if its not there or is worn the kickstart gear will rub or jam against 4th gear

This is a good site for Manuel Soler models 159/183/191 http://sherpamanuelsoler.blogspot.com/ Has the parts manual with diagrams and other good stuff

You have to disconnect the green earth from the frame With a ohm meter I connect black to one wire from the meter, the other wire from the meter to a good earth point, eg cylinder head, my ohm meter has a buzzer as well which makes it easy, I'd say your tester with the light would work much the same. Its something to do with the earth leaking back through the l/t coil or whatever, its a mystery