teamferret

No, it does not matter, have rotated one on its centre and randomly put one on a villiers engine

they do appear to be equi-spaced. I think you will have to check timing after fixing them. You will need a dti to find top dead centre and then the required firing point so that you can mark the flywheel if it isn't already. The copper coloured coils are just for lighting and should be removed if you are not thinking of adding lights

check the ignition using a strobe. They don't normally alter, but obviously someone could have built it up and hot checked the ignition. The system is identical to the suzuki singles of the same era. The flywheel is in 2 pieces as it has an extra weight added for trialing

yes, preferably a much cheaper one with slightly less grip so we can ease the sections back a little too

Thinking about tyres having replaced mine in the last few months, what are the thoughts on having a cheaper control tyre for classic events?

Just had a new very expensive X-Lite front and does anyone else remove the moulding flash like I do? I was surprised how much came off much more than recent IRC rear

www.cottonvilliersspares.co.uk paultrials@yahoo.com

Try retarding the ignition

Not on a modern bike, but I use it in my Greeves as it did have a tendency to seize and it's the most tenacious of oils.

It would run, but with very little power

It was running last year, John Penny is the owner and a nice guy but runs it as a sideline. Join the Armstrong/CCM trials group on facebook and ask the question there, it's a useful source of information too

I wouldn't bother. From experience the weight is more suited to none clutch use as it prevents the engine stalling. When I firtted the electronis ignition to my greeves trials bike, I left the weight off thinking being used to riding bikes with virtually none I would be fine, but it was almost unrideable. I was gutted to have to add over a kilo of weight to the bike as I've spent a lot of time and effort reducing it's overall mass

A friend had one of these and he fitted slightly longer shocks which steeped the head angle and increased the ground clearence

Have you tried Central Wheel?

It is a Rotax, but that might not help you a lot There was a guy on ebay breaking them

There's a good chance that the ossa fork stantions etc will fit nicely into the RL bottoms

As long as the rims match ie both not shouldered, and have same number of spokes you should be OK. be wary of used rims, they are usually knackered

My experience with small bikes suggests the carb could still be blocked, the jets are tiny and take some clearing out as do the airways in the carb itself. Also if it has a dellorto carb, these often have 2 slow running jets in the same boss. i think your clutch issue is just that this bike could have come with a centrifugal clutch from new

I can't see clearly from the photos, but are you sure the tyres are seated on the rim correctly it looks like the bead might still be off the rim and in the centre depression. It's common with off road tyres that they don't want to come back on the rim properly and you have to deflate soap up the bead then reinflate even as high as 80PSI

lower the pegs, they look a bit high, you will get benifit from that

I did a couple of trials back in the late 70's on my 185B but they were too hard (no dual routes in those days) but I did a lot of practicing with my brothers who had similar trail bikes. Yes the power comes in strong about 4500RPM but usually I kept it out of that. Dropping the barrel a little more might help and , like you say the compression is quite low. My B model had higher compression and the later models dropped it each time. I've just bought a C model which has stood outside for the last couple of years and nearly have it back on the road. Have you any parts left over would love an exhaust and tank like yours and I'm short of the air cleaner assembly

False. That gearing will be fine, if you do need a higher gear you will find second is more useable. Chances are though that it will jump out of either gear

The same year TS250 is very similar and there is a haynes manual for that

the front forks bend quite easily, i woud bet that's why they are stuck down

The easy engine is very different (and better in my opinion). It has crankcase reed valve, hydraulic clutch and the kick start is on the right. Piston wise the RM250 one looks close.