Confirmation came back today that my vehicle has been made secure, and to proceed with the registration allowing 48 hours for the details to be available to the DVLA.
6 working days turnaround is excellent for a government department considering all the staff reductions.
So well done to HMRC.
Can now ride it in the Perce Simon and the Downland.
Bultaco UK have just taken delivery of a small batch 247 Mk1 and the first Mk11 (small hub, extra flywheel) straight through silencers.
Got it today al looks the business, but might need to make a bit of clearance around the petcock. Hammer in or cut, weld and plate.
I had to completly rebuild and repack my original and whilst it is ok the original steel casing is a bit too thin in places and about to fail, looking forward to trying the new silencer out.
I have been using the Elextrex World Mont 348 ignition for a year now without issue. The 348 flywheel is heavier than the 247, so earlier this year skimmed the face material off the flywheel until it matched the weight of the original 247. Bit more zip, nice. Personally I cannot fault their kit I have fitted 3 now (2 to my Sherpas, 1 to the Mont) ultra reliable.
I made a jig, located the two yokes on 35mm pins one above the other split the difference on the front to back original bores and bored out to 34mm.
Whilst on the jig skimmed the faces to 90 deg to the bores, then mounted them on an expanding mandrel and turned a recess 3mm deep to stop the new stepped bushes/inserts from moving.
Then just reassemble.
In my opinion it works fine and turns tight without washing out. Counter to this it can be lively over rocks but note unduley so, just like a modern bike.
The mudguard does not hit the frame or exhaust due to the Magical spring never bottoming out. Even if they did there is still clearance.
All castings, motor gearbox, clutch internals, hubs, brakes, spindles, airfilter
Forks apart from springs (not hiding Bultaco internals in AJS forks) and re machined yokes
Tank in is original (not in this image) see my original post in Non standard looking sherpa.
Upgrades
Mikuni, well, this was a known upgrade in the 60's
Electronic ignition
So what I am saying is that this bike is more (has more original parts) than a lot of pre 65's and the only mods are to make it cope with modern sections.
It is just a coincidence that I managed to resurect it at Easter.
Tell me what is structurally not orginal!, apart from the consumable items like replacement shocks and white paint (I never did like the overall blue look). Certainly more original than a lot of the pre 65's.
Rather than cut the frame I got the Yokes over bored, sleeved so that they were parallel to the head.
I will then cut the handlebar clamps off machine and weld approx. 6 mm ahead of the stem centre line (I did this on my 69 Sherpa).
I find this puts more weight over front wheel and gives better feel.
Last night just fitted the Magical fork springs, preload adjusters and rear shocks (350mm long).
Have used magicals since they came out and find they give a plush feel to the bike and do not bottom out, leaving plenty of clearance on the exhaust pipe.
I am not a very good rider but I just like things to be right.
Will post another picture after Easter and measure wheel base.
Full Arrows titanium and Aluminium exhaust system including Cat.
Rev counter that works from just wrapping a wire 5 times around the plug lead.
EBC sintered front pads.
Hel braided brake lines.
General thoughts after 800 miles.
Quality, good solid build
Fuel injection and electric start, ace.
Handling on IRC trail tyres, tight holds lines well and really good all rounder.
Value for money great.
I droppped the front sprocket 1 tooth to 13 but reverted to original to make sure I keep within the NSL's. Could not be faffed to work it out but can get a corrector module if i want. Perhaps!
I have done 6 trials with the Mont since changing from points.
No problems starts promptly and it runs sweet.
However, my engine has been totally rebuilt, apart from reboring which it did not need.
So, yes, I would recommend the Electrex World system.
Some people have said that the flywheel key can shear, but my experience is that this only happens if the taper is in poor condition or the nut has not been torqued up to 75ft/lbs. The key is only there to time the flywheel not drive it!
Basically it is a cheaper version of the Skyfall stunt bike the CRF250R.
Keep it pinned in first, second, third and fourth and boy does it fly. Not as quick or as light as a KTM but a lot less to buy and more reliable and it brings a smile by the mile! Sorry!
If your colleague or you have had to knock a flywheel off then you need help.
The flywheel has a thread in the middle to which you insert a puller, simply grip the outside diameter of the flywheel (tool required) and tighten centre bolt to brake the taper.
If you have not got the tools then get them!
Compared with the effort without they are worth every penny. Contact Bultacouk I did and it really makes life easy.
Sorry to be blunt but correct tools make life easy.
Further if you want a diagram of the wiring they can provide it.
Nova - V5 Issues! Help?
in Road Legal, MOT, Insurance etc
Posted
Hi Woody
Confirmation came back today that my vehicle has been made secure, and to proceed with the registration allowing 48 hours for the details to be available to the DVLA.
6 working days turnaround is excellent for a government department considering all the staff reductions.
So well done to HMRC.
Can now ride it in the Perce Simon and the Downland.