oz thumper

Thanks Mate, Banyeres I see is often recommended as a supplier, OK if you know what you want but the part descriptions often leave me with no idea what they are!!!! BTW I think the Jitsie adjuster J1611-06221 will fit the brake switch thread size, (so it says)

Thanks Mags, Very neat mounting. Agree with comments have had 4RT's since 2005 and have been brilliantly reliable. Just would like to fit tank protector if available, have had Mitani one on the old shaper tanks since the start and it is full of deep gouges and dings, so had been doing a lot of protecting !!!

Hi Guys, At long last bike has arrived in Oz. Please can someone advise if a tank protector is available for the new model? and more importantly, the bike has been delivered with brake light switch in front and rear brakes, this means not able to adjust the reach on the front lever, the thread of the switch is not metric and is about 8.5mm, completely different to the AJP master cylinder on my 06 bike. So again any clue as to who may stock the correct size adjuster. Thanks in advance, and yes the motor is very different from the 06 model and felt very much smoother and torquey. The suspension still feels very tight and I think needs quite a bit more riding before attempting to set up differently, the rear shock in particular does not seem to respond much to changes in damping at this stage.

If you are defintely going to replace then the most reliable is to run a bead of weld right around the cone in the center of the bearing face, as the weld cools the cone will just drop out with no damage to anything provided you keep the weld on the cone and not weld it to the stem !!! Either stick or Mig work just as well, don't use gas welding. This is a common technique particularly uselful on large bearings that require a lot of pressure to move them. It works because the cooling weld bead shrinks and causes the bearing to do the same. Good luck

Can't answer for new 260 have not arrived in OZ yet, but I set my 06 at 1,200 rather than 1,800 recommended in the book. Never had a problem but depends on your starting technique, if you can hold the throttle dead still whilst just cracked open a couple of mm,s then it will start dead easy. this and the answer to the first question is also affected by the EFI programme you run and for tight turns is also dependent on gearing. I ran std 10 front sprocket and 2 teeth more on rear. With Zog 3 map it will turn full lock with clutch in on the flat but I prefer to use the clutch just in case you hit a small rock etc. that can cause a sudden stop.

It is an individual thing so hard to tell how you will go. Sure the 4RT is one of the most reliable and overall cost effective units available, mine has given over 6 years totally trouble free service with only parts being what I have broken in get offs (and mostly has survived all of those). I came from years of the older two strokes and adapted straight away and have never looked back, however they are different from a modern 2T. Little bit heavier but if you are fit that is not an issue at Clubbies level and offset by the easy starting and stable handling. Haven't yet ridden the new 260 but by all reports the transition from 2T may be a little easier with the revised engine set up. If you got on ok on first ride then you will have no problems, I struggled with my 05 originally for the first month but then it was up a class and onwards. Good Luck which ever way you choose to go.

when you have been running a while check if the disc is hot and if the rear brake is dragging on. If there is no free play between the pedal and the master cylinder it will seal off the return port and cause rear brake to drag when the fluid expands a little. This is general not Beta specific and is a common problem where people like instant back brake. A colleague had his like this without problem on "pocket handkerchief" trials but had the rear brake lock on almost solid when on a longer time and observation event. in your case it may be coming on just enough to squeal.

Hi Stevo, as noted I have always used Elf HTX as that is the manual recommendation, the problems I referred to with Non Elf oils was only what I had read on this forum, particularly in the early years of the 4RT when people were complaining about excessive clutch drag when using other products. I am sure there is nothing unique about the Elf HTX.

Thanks for the info Guys, I am now even more confused as the HTX 740 spec says should not be used for immersed clutch??? Obviously there is a different rating system used for gearbox oils, as you say a 75w gearbox oil as supplied for general automotive use is a high viscosty fluid, neither of these oils are.

I have always stuck with Elf HTX 740 having read of the many problems people have experienced when changing to alternatives. Don't know the GRO product, but most 75W or 90W products are a heavy weight gear oil and used in straight gearbox applications with no clutch in the fluid. The Elf product is like light hydraulic oil or auto transmission fluid. I would not have thought that a 75W oil would have been anywhere near suitable.

I was going to add the same advice as John, Had exactly same experience with tight valves, ashamed to say that I had not checked them for a year or more as they so rarely change, however picked up the exhaust valves were about 0.03 tight when I checked them, adjusted and an immediate improvement in hot starting and never looked back since.

Thanks for taking the time to post with the details and in particular pleased you were able to pass on your riding impressions, very encouraging. All I have to do now is wait until next year for ours to arrive !

Thanks Hughesy, Great to hear their is a difference and it's positive. It is always a bit of a gamble ordering a bike that you haven't ridden, my first 05 was ordered purely on understanding what a massive advantage EFI would be on a 4 stroke trials machine and I was not dissapointed. Great to hear that the new 260 is improved exactly in the areas I was hoping for, even with a Zog3 map (from ferret flasher) to soften the bottom end it was still a little fierce for me and I found it difficult on 12 inch size rock beds where the engine braking and sharp response of the bottom end made it difficult to "tractor" through like the 2T would, it was always hard work. Hope you didn't get it too dirty !!!!

I see that H&D have white sets and Future Trial still advertise them.

Just an after thought, looking at the short cluch cover protector, I had the same on my 06 RR but after it sliding down a rock face the port taking fluid to the clutch slave cylinder wore a pin hole just below where the drilling is plugged. could not seal it at the time although welded up ok later at home. After that I used a full guard that protects the upper part of the case and no further damage although the guard is now just about worn through in that area. I know I should throw myself under the bike when dropping it down rocks but I am getting a bit soft as I get older !! Also reckon the little Repsol fuel tank breathers from H&D look a bit neater than the breather tube over the tank.

Hi Dave, Looks good to me, is the front pipe a termgoni titanium pipe as well, if so did it all fit straight on to the 260? Still wish someone would ride the thing and say how it goes, years back when I collected my new TFS Greeves from CJ Wylde in Leeds I rode it home about 100 miles to run it in and couldn't resist every roadworks practice I found on the way including a new roundabout under construction. Didn't look that new when I got home but at least I knew how it went !!!!

Ok will wear that one, at least you are not on fire !!!! A bit envious of you guys having delivery, our importer has not yet received any allocations let alone delivery schedules, my original 05 arrived in Jan 06 after being on order from the original announcement that they were going into production. I have RR on order currently hence interest in how they go. Look forward to reading your initial impressions.

All of this talk about how they look is driving me nuts, How do they GO ???? Or is this part of the Montesa advertising thing of releasing only a little bit of info at a time???? Come on guys, you can't possibly have had the bike for a few days without riding it, can you ??

SC is almost correct, compression and rebound damping are on the right leg (fro on the bike) the left leg is only spring pre load. Compression adjustment is at the bottom of the casing and rebound the click adjuster on the top. For what is is worth, at 65kg I found the standard spring rates to high for my riding style, both front and rear. Reducing pre load on either unit only increased the sag on the bike and lowered the ride height, didn't soften up the ride. I went for TRP at rear (only because I could get a lower rate spring) and found a lighter Ohlins spring for the forks. This meant that I could set the sag as normal and enjoy a softer ride.

I have just returned from overseas work, 4RT has been in the shed untouched for almost the full year. No new fuel into tank, three pushes on the kick start and it fired straight up to a steady tickover as it has every time since new. Have had 4RT since they came out in 05, current is Repsol 06 other than routine maintenance have never had to touch it in all that time. They are an amazing piece of gear and that is why they have my loyalty. Like most people would prefer that it was 65kg, but small penalty to pay for total reliability, plus I like the sound !!!

I always remove the bash plate because you really cant effectively keep the mating surfaces on the crankcase and cover clean when the bash plate is tight up against the cases. I do replace the rear bash plate screws occassionally so I can get the key in. I have found it fairly easy to fit and remove bash plate by slackening the front two set screws and then use a small G clamp at the rear between the frame and bash plate. This takes the weight off the bottom scews so that you don't strip the thread in the frame when you start unscewing the counter sunk allen screws. The new gasket has a bead of sealant already on it from the factory, The only place the factory use any other seal is just around the cable outlet at the top of the case and they use a silicon seal around the rubber grommet.

Technically the O rings will drag considerably more than the standard seal, they are made for static sealing situations like an inlet flange etc. Still will be interesting to see how it works over time.

Thanks Wherry especially for the link.

Is this the name of a Brand or are you winding me up ???

On the odd time that we have wet conditions here I find the front brake on the 4RT unaffected or even a bit better when wet, whereas the rear is fairly ordinary when wet but good when dry. I think I have Top Fun pads in the rear, what make do you real wet weather guys use?