oz thumper

Nigel, In answer to your question I would say that it appears arrogant when making statements about something you have not experienced, particularly when your initial comment was a straight "This is a non starter" in response to the advice that those who have tried it have found it beneficial in trials. "Who is Matt Newland" in response to noting that he had won the A grade Vic and Tas titles, "In spite of or because of" and finally suggesting that Scorpa should send you one so that YOU can give everyone an honest and independant (sic) view. Now if that is not arrogant I don't know what is, it implies that my view is neither honest or independent and I see that as personal. I had been ultra polite as the picture you had on your posts showed your bike on what I thought was your huge front lawn, and believed that you were one of the landed gentry and insolence could have me transported to the UK for life. However a Yorkshire mate has told me that was actually a section in southern trials and that I could take the Pi55 without fear. So thankyou for sharing your inventions with us, they will probably work down south, I was really hoping that you would post a picture of the biggest technical breakthrough you had made with a car battery strapped to your front forks. In the days of titanium, carbon fiber and weight saving that Miller was advising, that was a stroke of genius. "It's unfortunate that topic's set in this forum have to put up with such personal attacks from a certain few, rather than concentrating on whether this product is good for a few or not." I agree whole heartedly ! The facts are that: The inventor is a long standing trials rider who is still competing and enjoying wins in his class over east, it is not a cross over although being used with advantage in many forms of the sport. The units are innovative and exceedingly well made, they are in limited batch production and so far 23 have been fitted to trials bikes and as far as I am aware nobody has removed or returned a unit. Of those fitted to trials bikes Owen tells me that 6 people have upgraded to new bikes this year and have obtained new cam sets to suit these machines. The one indisputable fact is that I have been riding better with the CLAKE fitted and reckon it is great, that is all the original post was advising. So in response to your only question that I can see was unanswered (because I saw it as a supercilious comment rather than a question) "Will anyone at that price, to make riding more difficult" ? Clearly NO, those who have tried it have found riding easier and that is why we retain the unit.

The std chain that came with my Repsol is marked Regina on one link, An Iris chain came as one of the Repsol "Extras" and is a Trial Pro RXL, I fitted that from new and have had no problems with no more stretch than the Std Regina that I ran on my 05 RT.

I don't know yet Perce as I've only had the CLAKE for a couple of trials and we haven't had any long downhill runs between sections. For me in the past I have tended to ride downhill sections with the clutch engaged and using the rear brake when I could whereas most of our better riders follow the pull the clutch in and use the rear brake. I am finding much better control on steep downhill sections with the Clake and I think it is due to, having much more feel on the rear brake on the lever, having my foot where I want it on the peg, the ability to have a dab or use right foot for balance without loosing braking and having the clutch still dragging and therefore some engine braking when the brake is being applied but without the risk of stalling. If you pull the brake on a bit harder to lock up in that position you have less clutch drag. On my RT the rear brake action is very light and has not caused me any fatigue in the hand, but as I say haven't had a two mile down hill creek to negotiate. Can't comment on the tractor, but did ride a 350 Matchless once in my youth that seemed very close to a tractor at the time !!!

HI Perce, And thanks for a question rather than a statement ! Hard to answer specifically as it depends on the hill and what you want to do at the top, as I am sure you appreciate. Obviously on a long fast hill with nothing much at the top you would be just throttling off conventionally. Where you want to be slower than clutch fully engaged would allow at the top, simply pulling the lever gently in starts the clutch slipping so that you can slow down without stalling or coming to a complete standstill,slightly more pull on the lever clears more clutch and starts to drag the rear brake, depending on how much you pull the lever in you can creep forward at anything between a snails pace or normal speed with the clutch fully engaged. You really don't think about it, you just pull marginally harder to go slower and release marginally to go faster, up or down hill and doesn't matter where your right foot is. If you really want to pull the clutch and coast then you can slide you finger inboard a few mm's to allow full clutch release without braking (although you will still get rear brake if you pull the lever even further in after the clutch is released) So far I have never felt the need to use the unit in this way. After this weekends ride for me the biggest improvement in my riding is being slower and in control immediately at the top of fairly short but steep rock climbs because I now have much better control of the clutch/brake function that you refer to. The only disadvantage I have found with the unit so far was getting too close to some bush and a tough vine catching the lever and pulling the brake on same as it would with the front brake lever!!! If the above doesn't make sense drop me an email.

I thought the Luddites came from the North ???? You would have to ask Matt, as he is not a works rider I assumed that he used the CLAKE because he felt it gave him an advantage. I use it because I prefer it and paid good money for the privilege, they ain't cheap !! I'm not here to sell it, just passing on that the technology works and on my 4RT for reasons that I don't understand the clutch action is smoother and in roll back mode neutral is much easier to select when stationary. If you are over this way give me a hoi and you are welcome to borrow my bike.

As previous post, Matt swapped over to the CLAKE some time ago, don't know him personally but he has some notes on the Clake web site, I should have made clear that he won the Championships with a Clake equipped bike.

HI Nigel, If you are referring to bike riding I would not dare to suggest you have been "doing it wrong for 30 yrs" , maybe it is me that has been doing it wrong for just on 50 years, but with this set up have found that I can do it better !! But as usual you make a good point, in fact if you choose to move the clutch finger inboard a few mm then you can use the clutch with effectively no brake, however you are right that you cannot use the rear brake without the clutch. When I started in trials in the UK most of us used the decompressor on the two strokes rather than the back brake as it was more effective and you could hear when the motor was locking up and hence the back wheel and of course left the clutch engaged. When I got my Greeves new in 65 I nearly didn't go ahead with it as the Challenger head and barrel didn't have provision for installing a decompressor valve, however I adapted my riding style to fit in with the new bike and soon was getting better trial placings as the bike was over all an improvement on the previous ones. Point is that if you change the bike set up you usually have to change your technique . If you often use the rear brake an no clutch, the fitting of the Clake would require a change to your riding technique, will that make you ride better of worse? I don't know. Matt Newland has I am sure changed his technique a little, but in his case, as with mine, has seen an improvement in his results. p.s have one of those bl---y stupid Montesa brake pedals for sale !!!!

HI Tom, I spoke with Owen who invented the CLAKE, yes technically it is possible to set up in tandem with the rear brake pedal but definitely not recommended. The only bikes that have retained the rear pedal are a couple of stunt bikes where they need the pedal to control hands of wheelies. I only want to control "feet off" wheelies in sections !!!!

Hi Nigel, I respect your experience but I would disagree that "This is a non starter" we ARE using the CLAKE here in trials and in Matts case winning. The way it operates is that there is an overlap between clutch and brake that is set by the choice of cams in the lever, The more the lever is pulled the more the clutch clears and the more brake is applied. I can't think of many circumstances where you want to be engaging the clutch fully and applying the rear brake hard. ( I have done this plenty of times due to incompetent use of the brake pedal, but not intentionally!!) Again accept that many people will prefer the traditional set up, but have found that most riders who have tried it prefer the CLAKE system. It really is something you have to experience to appreciate how well it works. I got my unit on the basis I could return it if I didn't like it, and I was convinced during my first ride. As for different sport down under, well it was 39.9 degrees C according to weather bureau at the start of the weekend trial, so we don't have a hell of a lot of snotty mud around !!!

Well first trial of the year at the weekend and rode the 4RT equipped with the CLAKE and my enthusiasm for the concept continues to grow. If not for a most uncharacteristic spit and stop from the motor whilst riding into a section, on a paved area!, I would have equaled the winning score in our grade, well above where I have been riding in the past. Without thinking about it I have moved to riding more on the balls of my feet ( could feel more than usual fatigue in the calf !) and the bike feels more stable both on steep downhill sections as well as much easier to recover when getting off line going up. For those who can't see it's use in trials, not here to convince you - same as fuel injection and programmable throttle bodies etc. - Just passing on that it works great for me. ( And apparently Matt Newland who took out the A grade championships in Victoria and Tasmania last year!!)

Thanks PA, fortunately I have adapted quicker to the CLAKE than the computer !!!

The best thing is to look at the Clake web site http://WWW.CLAKE.COM, the best information is in the FAQ section. You will see that the set up can be varied by changing the cams in the lever assembly. Mine is set so that there is quite a bit of overlap between the clutch and rear brake. That is the clutch is still dragging quite a bit as the rear brake comes on, more movement of the lever frees the clutch a bit more and applies more brake. The transition is very smooth and has good feel to it. The unit also allows you to slide your finger inboard about 10mm and that gives less overlap and is used by some when changing gear, there is also a further facility called roll back that completely clears the clutch so that you can pull the bike back when in gear. Strangely, on my 4RT I can get neutral much easier when using the roll back position than I could with the normal set up. I do have a couple of photo's and will try to work out how to post them. There are about twenty trials machines fitted with the CLAKE in Australia including a couple of our expert grade riders. I only ride C grade so I can't tell you how it works at the expert end, but can tell you that the majority of the guys that have tried out my bike here in W.A found it exceptionally easy to ride with.

I have now had two long practice sessions at our trials park since fitting the CLAKE to my 06 Repsol. This Ozzie developed combined clutch and rear brake unit is a real eye opener. I found by the second session I was cleaning sections that I had not been able to when the bike was set up conventionally. Found it totally natural and have not once gone for the missing brake pedal!! The biggest surprise has been the ability to lock the rear wheel even on the flat and concrete surface with only reasonable pressure from the one finger and the clutch remains as light as normal. My main reason for trying the unit was that I can rarely hit the back brake when the bike is starting to loop in a section, and I figured that as I always go for the clutch at that time if that also pulled on the rear brake there was a better chance of saving the plot. With the CLAKE fitted that has been the case but the real improvement has been in better control particularly over rocks and drop offs. I have found it great so far and an easy fitting job onto the bike. A really innovative approach that works for me!!

I had no spark during a trial a couple of years ago and checked most things before finding that the throttle cable had been pulled up in the rubber shroud when I dropped it. This tells the EFI that the throttle is too far open for safe starting and shuts off both ignition and fuel injection. Pushed cable back in and started first kick. I was initially baffled because I had no spark but even after trying to run the bike to start the plug was coming out dry. You also don't mention checking the tilt switch, this is also a possibility for no spark. Good luck.

I had an 05 and now 06 Repsol from new and have always used ELFHTX740 and never had any clutch problems. The clutch is standard and for me is great, yes they are sensitive but definitely not grabby (try my old TLR even after the usual clutch mods). My oil comes out as clean as it went in and these days I only change it about every 50-60 hours of trials. OK so the oil is a bit dearer than some others but the transmission holds only 540cc for heavens sake, why risk poor clutch performance to save a couple of dollars a year on oil???

Also a real skinny funnel comes in handy for putting new oil in the case as the oil dipstick/filler hole is dang small? It is a bit easier to use the timing inspection hole to add the oil with the dipstick removed to let the air out.

It is unlikely to be a problem but to cover all possibilities you should also check valve clearance, a tight exhaust valve will also cause popping in the exhaust.

All of the bike here in W.A run a 43t rear sprocket, our sections tend to be tight and all rocks and it definitely helps particularly when new on the bike. Only problem is that you need to fit a half link in the chain with the 43t. I had an 05 and then 06 Repsol, yes the clutch initially felt a bit on and off but soon adapted to it. I always ran the Elf oil and when I got used to the clutch I found it was not all that grabby, just very sensitive to lever movement and I now actually prefer the fast reaction of the standard unit. Air filter, have just used engine oil as per the manual with a bit of sticky air filter oil around the top sealing foam. The Ptb is great if you have it, however I reckon the main thing is to just ride it and get used to the different characteristics of the 4RT it doesn't take long to get used to it. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I have!!

Hi there Montboy, Have you established what the problem was yet? Problems solved are always interesting to file away in the back of the brain just in case we ever have the same issue.

If the throttle cable has been pulled up within the rubber sleeve on the twist grip, the throttle positioner reads the throttle as unsafe to start and kills both the spark and fuel injection. I had this last year after dropping the bike, worked all through the tests and electrical checks before I noticed the cable. Unlike a carburetted bike that is just hard to start if the throttle is open too far,the 4RT system shuts down when the throttle is to far open. Good luck

Not sure of the size, however on any nuts that are tight it is a really good idea to use a straight hexagon socket, such as those sold as impact sockets, it is virtually impossible to round off a nut with the right size single hex socket.

There is an article on the Trials Australia web site detailing some succesfull use of this gadget. Matt Newland came returned to trials after a three year lay off and won the A grade Tasmanian title on a CLAKE equipped Gas Gas. The article contains his comments on the gadget, as well as some reported Enduro and MX success. Haven't seen the gadget myself but note that they were holding a come and try day.

My mate and I both have ABW 70882 units which are also to big to clip over the HT lead near the plug where they should be placed for an accurate reading. His solution was to simply cut an old HT lead with plug cap and using a small screw fasten a spare plug top fitting on the other end. To use simply pull bike plug lead off the plug and slip the extension lead in between bike plug cap and the plug. Works fine and give you plenty of room to use inductive units. The pet 2000 looks an even handier unit.

Hi Munch, 4KG is a fair chunk of weight to have saved easily, what were the main components you have changed? Has anyone tried the Future trials Ergal fork bridge and steering stem? As I am in the flyweight class the bike is still heavier than me but a huge improvement over a 350 AJS!

Scotty the first step is to disconnect the fan and apply 12v DC direct to the fan motor. If it runs then the problem is on the power supply side. If it doesn't run the problem is the fan motor. If the fan runs then you need to check the power supply to the relay when engine is running, if no power to the relay that is the probem. If there is power to the relay then issue is with relay, temp sender or wiring from that point etc. Good luck