All deliveries to Australasia (except the Repsol Replica) were fitted with a restrictor on the inlet side. Mine was straight from crate and restrictor had only approximately 10mm hole in it.
Also try changing the spark plug, mine failed after 20 mins running and caused backfiring and erratic running at higher revs.
anyone know if they really changed anything in the clutch because my new repsol feels totally different from my dad's 05. it's less drag and little more on and off but it's a big difference
My Repsol also drags less than my previous std 05 our importer doesn't yet have the parts list update and can't confirm that any changes have been made. The drag on my 05 was only really noticeable when trying to start in gear, it showed no tendency to drag in a section and the bike could be pulled back easily when running and in gear.
Neither of the my machines grab although the action was originally to fast for my preference, however stuck with it and now find no problem at all. In fact it releases so quickly when needed at the top of a step or when the front end is lifting that my stop go riding has improved considerably.
I have continued to use the recommended Elf oil,I wonder if those having problems have used another oil?
Agree with most of the posts, I have had both 05 and 06 models and had no problem.Like Eddie I have idle set very low and occasionally need to just crack the throttle open the tiniest amount when hot. It is fatal however to twist the grip open as you kick, I have seen several riders unaware that they are doing that, I personally always keep finger on the front brake which helps to stop throttle hand moving.
Last but not least take the advice of checking with a dealer who has the diagnostic tool, it is possible to have a failure of one of the sensors in the throttle body or the sender unit.
Is the fan cutting in and out normally?
Be assured that if you are doing everything right there must be a fault somewhere, because unlike a few other fourstrokes they are not hard to start when hot even when they have been upside down.
If you have turned the tickover down from the Honda set rpm like several people on this message board seem to have done it may be the spark is slightly weeker at tickover than Honda planned for the engine - this may also lead to a sooty plug.
As for your thoughts on filter over oiling wouldn't the high tech fuel injection system on the Honda compensate for this - unless you really choke the filter with oil?
I have a couple of old TLR Hondas - I doubt if I look at the plug more than once or twice a year, I dont think I have had to re-gap it yet but admit to replacing the plug every year or so.
I have my bike set at 1130rpm idle and plug is as stated a nice dark brown on the center insulator and electrode, even after a lot of slow work. I also have a 250 TLR and plug life is exceptional, I have found the minature plug in the 4RT not so long life.
All the initial warnings about not enough power to run the engine at low revs do not seem to be based on reality, I have run mine ultra slow all season, it doesn't stall, spit or have starting problems.
As to why the system doesn't compensate for a plugged air cleaner, I am not sure but it doesn't.
Still the most fun bike I have had and new Repsol arrived today !!
Plugs are usually black around the outer body but should be a medium brown on the center electrode. If you are running the correct plug, check air cleaner is clean, been reported that using the heavy sticky enduro or motocross filter oils can promote a rich mixture due to the small size of the aircleaner.
Recommend you use engine oil as per the book.
I presume that you are not running any fuel additives, just premium unleaded?
I change my plugs every six meetings or so, but my mate has only changed twice all season without any hassles.
Our plugs are consistently brown on the center electrode.
As for tyres have not tried anything other than standard Mich,s
I've heard that if you take your foot off the kickstart lever at the end of its stroke, at the footrest, and allow the lever to fly back it can damage the casings
Previous replies are correct, early 4RT,s did require the upgrade of the stop bolt.
As for taking foot off the kickstart at the end of the stroke, I guess all of the lessons learn't by us "old timers" have been lost.
On all of the big four stroke singles, either road or competition, it was one of the first lessons learnt to follow through with the kickstart and hold it down until the motor fired up properly.
A kick back apart from destroying internal parts could just about break your knee cap under the handlebars.
Many of the old bikes had a cam that disengaged the kickstart mechanism at its full travel to reduce the chance of the lever being hurled back if the motor spat back.
Ask any one who owned a BSA Goldie or a Velo Thruxton.
So I reckon always good practice, particularly on a fourstroke,to push through the stroke and steadily return the kickstart when the motor fires up.
In respect to 4RT clutch agree completely with Windlestone.
Have had mine 6 months and find it fine.
The standard length of the m/cyl push rod does mean that the action is very early and some people are not comfortable with that, however is easily fixed if required.
I have found the clutch very quick in that it releases early in the lever movement, but smooth in its engagement.
Personally I would let the breater vent to atmosphere rather that re-circulate through the airbox.
The crankcase breather can also suck if no PCV is fitted. The breather venting into the airbox also draws clean air from there if negative pressure is experienced.
Does any one know if the digital ignition has a built in rev limiter?
Whilst the auto shutdown feature is useful when the bike is on its side, six seconds jammed flat out is a long time!
I recently parked mine upside down at the top of a section whilst I took a trip down to the creek at the bottom that took a lot longer than 6 seconds and it didn't try to shut down at all. ( But does if laid on its side).
Same as everyone else, starts effortlessly usually three pushes from cold.
During a meeting usually first push even when it has been upside down.
As I have my tickover set fairly slow and there is a bit of drag when in gear, I find hot starting more reliable with the throttle just cracked open a very small amount but keeping the throttle dead still.
Don't contribute to the various arguments about which is best bike, only know that the couple of 4RTs here have been totally reliable and we reckon the whole package is fantastic.
Put a tachometre on my 4rt last night..........930rpm on tickover......... Comments please!!!!
Sounds about where I believe they should operate at. Will let you know when I get mine delivered.
Any one know if a 9tooth sprocket is available yet?
Well had my 4Rt for a few trials and can now sort some of the facts from the stories of what they will or won't do.
Have set my bike to 1200rpm idle, and it has never stalled or been difficult to start during a trial. Drops to 1150rpm when the fan cuts in.
It will tickover for extended periods without a problem, including when on the side stand (contrary to what someone wrote).
Have found that using a very small amount of throttle when hot improves the starting and doesn't upset the electrics as long as you keep it absolutely still.
Fitted 43t rear from new, left middle and rear exhaust restrictor in place and totally happy with the performance.
Really enjoying the ride, they may be slightly lacking in the world indoor series but have all the majority of riders will ever need.
Put a tachometre on my 4rt last night..........930rpm on tickover......... Comments please!!!!
(Also put it on my mini-moto, 2500 tickover, revs out at 10,000rpm!!! )
Stu, reference mini bike revs. I don't know if the bike is 2 or 4 stroke.
If it is fourstroke with a simple ignition circuit you can get caught out with tacho setting, because some ignitions are straight off the flywheel and therefore fire every revolution rather than only on the firing stroke.
TLR is like this and will give double the actual rev reading if tacho is set to fourstroke scale.
Put a tachometre on my 4rt last night..........930rpm on tickover......... Comments please!!!!
Sounds about where I believe they should operate at. Will let you know when I get mine delivered. Our dealer over East has told me that he had slowed his right down similar to his old TLR (around 900rpm) but hasn't measured it. He has had no problems other than when adjusted to ultra slow it was difficult to start if stalled.
This was improved by adjusting tickover up a little.
Any one know if a 9tooth sprocket is available yet?
Hey oz thumper,something seems a bit fishy here.......how did you get Allan off that new bike.
Just offered Allan a ride on a slow moving TLR, then had trouble getting it back!
Seriously the tickover issue is that 1800rpm on a trials bike is NOT tickover. The beauty of a slow reliable tickover on a fourstroke is that you can leave the clutch and rear brake alone on slippery downhill stuff, can't do that if the motor is driving.
Thanks Mark, I also have trouble believing the 1800rpm or not enough power story, even my old DOT made the lights glow on tickover!
It is possible that those revs are required to power all lights fan etc to their full capacity.
Noted on a ride this morning (mates bike) that you can pull the revs right down on the brake and it shows no sign of running out of sparks. So will wait until mine arrives and adjust as you have.
Note droping 2 teeth on rear sprocket is the equivalent of 90 revs off tickover, hardly worth the effort.
)
2006 4rt - Check Your Breather!
in Montesa
Posted
Thanks for warning, not something I would have been looking for when working on the bike.