farmerj

So is the function pretty much the same as without the "seat", where the fender flexes when you sit on it? Or does the base of this seat add some re-inforcement? I don't need a full-length seat, as much as something to keep my back-end from sliding down when I sit - and it looks like this configuration would help. But if the rear fender still sags when I sit there, or if the angle is so steep that you still slide down off of it, I'll work on some other idea... I realize/assume that this seat would only be useful to "take a break" on smooth straight sections, right? ...or I suppose I could spend more time in the gym BTW - regarding ...you are so right! The only thing I have seen that could come close to a trials bike is this "hybrid" - have you seen it?? - http://www.scorpa.fr/openswf.php?id=152 Looks interesting! Jeff

Also, check out this long range tank at Lewisport: http://www.lewisportusa.com/gas_tanks.htm ---------------------- Uhoh - How did you get that seat!! I've tried contacting Herve Michal before, and he said "Can't sell to the USA". This was some time ago - have they changed their tune? I'd love to get ahold of one of those! Any info. you can give me would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff "to get this setup contact: Herv

Tim, You don't want the stock speedo. They were quite unreliable. Try here: http://www.trailtech.net Happy riding! Jeff

Yes, and does anyone know why they call it a "321"??

Hi Scott, I love my txt 321! It has fantastic low-end, hard to stall, and works perfectly for where I ride. But that is where I must "bow out" of the conversation! I'm not really riding trials, but woods. Here are a couple of links for you to peruse - TC thread GG 321 review Happy reading! Jeff

The bar lifts Adrian has are pretty, but only raise the bar height something like 10-20 mm. I got some that are more like a 3/4" lift (sorry I can't remember for sure) from a link on the GG website. $29.95, and one could probably make them for $5.95 - but I didn't have to R&D and find the right length bolts. Just another option to think about . Jeff

I'd be interested to hear where you are re: your KTM rear tire in another year - after trying out that "big ol radial"! That's probably the next upgrade to my KDX - you wouldn't naturally think of using a trials tire on an enduro bike...until you try one http://www.smackovermotorsports.com/html/articles.html http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.ph...highlight=tires http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.ph...highlight=tires http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthrea...ght=trials+tire Jeff

I do want to make friends with you! My txt 321 is itching for some good hillclimbs! Thanks for posting the pics. Jeff PS - Here's a link to a seat/tank combo that Lewisport may import...someday. The seat looks similar to the link that r2w posted - it's also in the French Hebo catalogue. I've got some friends in Paris - maybe I'll get them to procure one for me! http://www.lewisportusa.com/Images/gg_bigtank_seat_1.jpg ------------- Edit #3! - check this post on that topic http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....opic=5519&st=15

I just love the engine on my '01 321. I'm mostly riding trails and stuff - incredible torque, I love being in a 3rd gear hillclimb at low speed and the engine will not stall! Sting32, I'm curious how the engines compare when riding, especially in the torque department. The '05 300 bore & stroke = 79 x 60 (294cc). The '01 bore & stroke = 83.4 x 60 (327cc). It seems like the larger bored bike might have more "grunt" - but I know there are a lot of factors that influence things in a "real life" test... BTW - Does anyone know why they call a bike with 327 cc's a "321"?? Jeff

Hi guys, It's time to replace my rear brake pads (brake fluid damage). What brand is best? I really like the feel of the stock Hebo units, but am not sure that my dealer carries them. Hebo? Galfer? Apico? I tried the search function, but couldn't find anything on this topic. Your thoughts? Jeff

Weird. I just logged on to post this same problem with my '01 txt 321. And I thought I was the only one! Seems odd, since the bike only has about 25 hrs. on it. On two occasions, the bike quit running - I thought I was out of fuel - added fuel and kicked 50 times - got it through my thick head that the bike wasn't going to start and checked spark - changed the plug and it ran fine (for a while). The difference here (from Ginger's situation) is that I still have spark with a new plug, and the bike will still run. It seems that something is "taking out" the plug - does this tell me which item - stator, cdi, or coil - is the problem?? I am enough of an electrical novice to not know how to test these items. Does anyone have further thoughts on the issue? Thanks, Jeff

jj, Thanks for the response. The back portion of the seat actually snapped off, so that the black colored section with the holes & grommets that the fender "posts" go through is still with the fender - not the seat! It looks to me that for the fender to really break away from the seat, you are supposed to remove the two plastic rivets that go through the fender, as well as the bolt. Is this true? - or do the rivets usually break or pull through the fender? Good suggestion on the plastic bolt! Jeff

What is the best glue to use on Hebo plastics? Specifically, I broke off the rear portion of the seat - where the fender attaches - and am wondering if I can glue it back together with any hope of it having strength. I suppose this occurred from taking out the fender bolt that goes through the seat, but not the plastic rivets. I had heard something about a "break-away rear fender" - well, I broke it away!! Thanks, Jeff

Great tips and input, guys. I am appreciative! Jeff

Well, today I was glad to get my '01 txt 321 running again after an electrical problem. It was an easy fix - the plug had gone bad. As the bike was idling, I was working on plugging the kill switch wires back together, which I had taken apart during troubleshooting. I must have inadvertently put pressure on the throttle cable in the process, because all of a sudden the bike raced to Wide Open Throttle - and stuck there . There it sat - the engine spinning at whatever maximum rpms it's torquey little self could muster. I couldn't use the kill switch to stop it - the switch was still disconnected. I thought about putting it in gear and popping the clutch - as if popping the clutch at WOT would do anything but send the bike straight up into the air and down onto my head - while my two year old son stood watching 5 feet away. As I feverishly worked on getting the kill switch connection made - the bike just DIED . It had been running at WOT for about 10 seconds. What happened? 1. Did I seize the engine? 2. Did my fooling with kill switch wires somehow stop the thing (I never had pressed the switch). 3. An act of God? I let the bike cool for 5 minutes and went to kick the engine over. I expected the piston to be frozen in position. It was not . The bike started on the second kick, and I rode it for 1/2 hour, with no seeming ill effect. What harm did I do? Will the bike's performance suffer? Do I need to pull off the top end for inspection? Thanks, Jeff

Jay, Thanks for the response. I'm still struggling to get the brake response back to where it was originally - which was excellent! What a hassle! I have pushed fluid up with the syringe 3-4 times, and still couldn't get any firmness in the pedal. That is, until I loosened the brake line bolt on the master cylinder and bled it from there. Now I have some pedal, but the brake has very little stopping action - it won't lock up. I thought that maybe my problem was with the pads. One of them had a bit of brake fluid on it, which I understand ruins them. I took them off and buffed them on a wire wheel, trying to get down to "clean pad." This may not be recommended?! Now I'm not sure if they're seating squarely on the disc. But you may have given me the tip I need! Your comment about the pushrod gives me hope that I may still have air in the line - so I will loosen the pushrod and give it another go! How do you know when it's loose enough? Do you just take the pushrod off all the way off, or ?? Thanks again for your reply! Jeff BTW - Do you elevate the front wheel or drop the rear caliper to make sure that it's at the lowest point in the system - or will this bleeding method work with the caliper bolted to the swingarm in the normal position?

Hi guys, I recently got an '01 txt 321 - my first trials bike. Awesome! I love this bike! I'm mostly trail riding at present, and am really impressed with the torquey engine and precise handling on tight hillclimbs. On the last ride, I lost all of my rear brake fluid out of the rear caliper - somewhere. The local shop said that since the bike had been sitting for a long time that the piston seal area could have gotten corroded, allowing fluid to leak past. I disassembled and re-assembled - everything looked fine. Now I'm trying to bleed the system (I've seen the recent thread). I have no firm action when pumping the brake pedal - and I see little bubbles coming out of where the rubber boot attaches to the master cylinder. Does this mean that my master cylinder is "shot"?? Or could it be that with no pressure in the system, the (presumed) seal in the bottom of the master cylinder doesn't seat? I'll try bleeding the system again tomorrow, but thought I'd try to get some info. on my next step... Do the master cylinders have a habit of going "bad"? Can the master cylinder be rebuilt? I don't see any parts in the GG pdf manual. Thanks for letting me get initiated into this forum! I've loved following along and searching for stuff! Jeff