liviob

No one knows sea level jetting for the 26mm mikuni carb? Im pretty sure its a screw top mikuni.

I need to jet my carb for sea level. This is what's in it. Pilot 35, Needle 3, Main 145. I have a 45 pilot but not sure which main to use and don't want to buy six of them to tryout. Anyone willing to share their jetting specs for sea level? Thanks!

Sounds like your suspension needs fine tuning. Do you have the sag with you aboard set at approximately 2"? Setting the ride sag would be a good place to start. Are you in the USA? I have an 01 Rev and I weigh 235lbs. I had to experiment with different brands of oil to get the right viscosity, but after finding the right oil my suspension works very good using the stock springs. I use the same oil in the forks and in the shock which I service myself. When I get home tonight I will look at the bottle and post up what it is. Edit; This is the oil although I didn't buy it here this is a good deal. I put this oil in the shock and the fork. The bike feels very balanced front to rear. Not to fast or slow. A advanced rider who is your size rode the bike after i serviced the suspension with this oil and felt the action was fine for their weight skill level. If the fork dives or bottoms too easily you can raise the oil level a few millimeters at a time until you get the action you like. http://motul.co.uk/product/shock-oil-factory-line/ http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/21092/i/motul-factory-line-400-v1-shock-oil

I have a 01 Rev 250 and i ended up removing the clutch side flywheel weight. Its behind the water pump. The 250 is pretty smooth even with no extra flywheel weight on the crank. Great bike!

Maybe you rode the bike with the chain set too tight and destroyed the bearings in the wheel and counter shaft?

Your ability to notice the effects of a oil service depends on how sensitive you are to bike setup. I change the oil in mine every three to six months. It gets dirty fast and i notice the action change after three rides on fresh oil. You need specific tools to service it.

I installed Boyeson 112 pro reeds in my 09 290. They softened the bottom hit and made the engine nearly stall proof. The engine is much more tractable than with the stock reeds. I can slow the engine down till i can count the pops and it docent stall. Most install the 665 power reed.

Try these they work great. I use them and they solved a back ache problem i had while riding. Im 5'10". https://secure.rypusa.com/prodpage.cfm?cat_selected=116&product_selected=140&startrow=1

I have a 09 EVO 290. I did the DW clutch mod and put 1.5m-2mm washers under the spring retainer bolt and washer assembly to reduce the spring preload which softened the lever pull. The cross hatch needed to be removed on the clutch cover or the clutch spring retainer bolts will scrape them off when you pull the clutch lever. I lowered the trans oil to 480cc or watever is close to that on the ratio right. I use GM type 2 transmission oil and the clutch works great.

Those are definitely signs of a lean pilot circuit. When i rode my stock 09 290 EVO at sea level it ran a noticeably lean. Im sure the dealer here installed a fifty before i took delivery. He also lowered the floats a few millimeters. At very high altitude I installed the Boyeson reeds and went one up on the pilot from the dealers delivery setting. Im pretty sure i am using a #52 pilot. I left the needle and main alone. High altitude jetting is different than low altitude jetting. My air screw is 2 1/2 turns out. Try one more larger size pilot to see if you can get the air screw out to 2 1/2 turns out. Some may disagree with this, but i have found that my 290 is smoother and noticeably easyer to ride and the plug looks fine no fouling.

My 09 EVO 290 makes the same distracting clack sound.I wonder if Jeroni's bike clacks? Dan's Teflon tape solution will help. I think i tried that and could not get the tape to stay on the stem when sliding the tree back into place. Maybe clear office tape would work. I didn't try that so it will probably work. I even tried to fit a feeler gauge into the slack and cut it off below the nut, but i couldn't find one thin enough to fit. I ended up tightening the steering stem nut just at / under the point of causing steering friction to get it to stop. I don't understand why Beta made the steering stem hole in the top triple tree oversize? Do stupid things faster. Drink more Coffee.

Dannyb what altitude do you ride at? <What are warning points?

Great! problem solved.

Here in Colorado we had a trial event near Denver on Sunday the 29th. which had a large showing of riders. I had once considered going to the national in Arizona but lack of time and money were my limiting factors. I'm guessing the reasons might be similar for others whom otherwise might have gone to your trial.

Congrats on the new bike Charlie! Is this your first motor bike? After you warm the engine up will it idle with the transmission in neutral? or will it not idle when you have the transmission in gear with the clutch lever pulled in to the grip? Was the clutch dragging pulling engine RPM down? As others have mentioned you can clean your air filter with solvent and reoil it before reinstallation. If after installing a clean and oiled air filter your engine still will not idle properly try turning the idle screw "its the screw on the side of the carb with the spring on it" in 1/16th turn. The idle should raise some if it doesn't try adjusting the air screw "its the slotted brass screw closest to the intake bell of the carb" It should be set anywhere from 1 turn out from full closed to 2 1/2 turns out from full closed. See where its set then reset it to 1 1/2 turns out from full closed position.