liviob

Tell it to keep its hands to itself. Is the disc bent?

Some people like Maxima trans oil or type F trans oil. I have been using with good results GM autotrac2 transmission oil. I'm sure there are others to try. You might give your clutch plates the Dan Williams mod at the top of the page. This mod makes a very noticable difference in clutch feel. No more light switch or dragging. Well worth the time it takes to do the mod. Also set the oil level lower than stock to 425cc.

I dont know if their more durable than Renthals, but you could also ask Bill Haskell where he found a set of Tommaselli 7/8" bars for my Rev3. It says on the package that their the Techno bend. I'm assuming their the stock Rev3 bend too.

I had to modify my suspension. This info may help. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/33584-suspension-setup/page__pid__254486#entry254486

I read here that if you remove the four screws and change the factory indexing of the relationship of the magnetes to the holes the generator will not work correct anymore. It may be a good idea to mark the parts for position.

I think your problem may be related to a lack of fuel delivery. If you have a inline fuel filter you might want to replace it or test it by temporarily installing a fuel hose with no inline filter.

Shell might make a good premix oil product, i have not heard of anyone using it. If it's 100% synthetic it might be just fine for a 70 to 1 mix.

Why Shell? Is it cheap?

Yes, that is what the Boyeson tech said about the 665 reeds. Being an intermediate rider I did not feel that i needed more response or power from the motor at higher rev's. At the time i purchased the 112 reeds I was looking for a more flexible, more controllable, torqier bottom power. I was stalling the motor often at 8000' Elevation. The 112 reeds delivered. No more stalling the motor and amazing flexability. You can pull the motor down below idle so far that you can count the pops and it will pull back up with a greater amount of control when you ask it too. At the time I was not using the clutch to it's fullest because it was more like a light switch. After the Dan Williams mod the clutch is now very usable and works as it should. I still do not need more power in the upper rev's, but I'm curious to know how the 665 reed feels during real time use. Thanks Copemech

665 is the power reed. I have not used that reed so i dont know how it works. I was told by the Boyeson tech that the pro reed 112 would offer better bottom response due to the thinner top pettel. If you need more bottom power add their KX 85 Pw 43 power wing. I use this combo at high altitude with 250 lb rider. It works very good.

If you want the power of the 290 to be a tiny bit softer and noticably more flexible between 1/4 throttle to below idle add a set of Boyeson pro series reeds. part number 112. They will smooth the bottom power. They are dual stage reeds with the top reed being as thin as the stock reed and the bottm reed being thicker than the top reed. In effect at small throttle settings the thinner top reed opens exposing a smaller intake opening in the thick bottom reed softening and smoothing the power until you open the throttle big enough to open the thicker bottom reed. Then the motor feels like a stock 290.

It makes sense to me that if more trials riders are to be motivated to develop their skills and ride the pro class and compete with the top 3 riders in the national series or even at the club level there needs to be a pro purse. Most every other pro sport worth mentioning has a pro purse. If pro payout were availiable to the riders. The up and coming riders would try harder. If your club is asking $30 Entry fee that would be enough or fees could be raised just a little which would provide purse money at the club level and trials meets could be set closer to civilization so spectator money could made. If there were spectators at the meets then sponsers could be found. I know it's fun to ride and camp at the beautiful trials sites that are currently established, but if the trials community were to aproach national motocross tracks and have a trials area built so a trials could be had once a year in a few areas around the country or set a trials at the endurocross events for the upper level riders like their doing in europe now. If their is money to be made The best riders will come to the series on their own. No one will have to bring them. Thats the problem as i see it. Theres no money to motivate people.

If want to ride Colorado my friend Bill Haskell does tours of some great rocky mountain riding. You wont be dissapointed with the scenery. You have not mentioned when you are planing on viviting the usa, but you may not be able to ride east of the rockys until spring or later. http://www.balancetrials.com/ Or If you wanted to ride a club trials, http://www.rockymountaintrials.org/index.html

The black is a nice look!

NZRalphy. I was able to open the stock shock from my 09 EVO. It is very easy to open and service or revalve if you feel the need. You must relieve the internal nitrogen pressure by drilling a hole in the shock body near the mounting lug afterwhich you will tap 1/4 pipe thread and fit a shrader valve. Dont worry about the pressure inside the shock causing a dangerous situation. It may be 150psi or so but it is such a small volume that it only makes a very small sound when it escapes. To open the shock you will need a sharp chisle and gently tap the aluminum dust seal head out of the shock body at the juncture. Slide it up and outa the way. Then with the shock mounted in a vice take two screwdrivers and gently push the seal head down to expose the circlip mounted inside. You have seen the small hole in the side of the shock body near the dust seal. Get a paper clip or somthing strong enough to unseat the circlip thats behind the hole and with a very small flat blade screwdriver that has had the tip bent 90 degrees remove the circlip. Now you can remove the shock shaft. You will find that the shaft will only come out a short distance before stopping against another circlip. You will have to remove it before the shaft will come out all of the way. Be gentle you dont want to scratch the inside surface of the shock body. When you reassemble the shock make sure the floating piston is 84mm from the top of the shock body to the flat part of the piston. If not you will have troubles. I think the oil that is in the shock is Bel-ray 10wt. Here is a chart that assigns centistoke values to each oil. Also there are mixing charts on this link for red line and silkoline oil. I dont recomend mixing oils. they dont stay mixed. Link no work. Send me your email from my personal page and i will send you a copy of an oil cst chart. If you get a 2011 evo you will not need a replacement shock. The stock suspension is very very good.

Buy one or Make one yourself.

Actually the suspension setup i have works pretty good. It works much better than stock. I spent alot of time changing and testing oil centistoke rates after installing new springs of the correct kg for my weight. .71 kg front and .80kg rear. When i ride my bike the suspension feels exactly like Toni Bou's suspension looks in this Toni Bou video. http://www.photobysergio.fr/video-toni-bou-piera.html The reason I made this post Is because I recently rode a 2011 EVO 290 and the suspension had a different feel than my 09 EVO. The 2011 definetly has firmer springs than my stock 09 had but it also has firmer compression damping. The 2011 setup makes the bike feel very stable. It also holds the bike up in the stroke better. After riding the 2011 and getting back on my 2009 my modded 09 will drop into the stroke more easily and farther than the 11. My modded 09 feels more supple and it has better bottoming resistance. As you mentioned my suspension oil needs to be refreshed and I could refresh it to the same spec's as it is now or I could add a few centistokes to the oil viscosity and firm the feel up a little. I was hoping their might be other people who have modded their suspension to get a particular feel of their liking, and be willing to share what suspension feel they like and why they like it. But based on the number of responses I guess I may be one of a minority of people who must modify their suspension to handle their ride weight. Thanks for the response.

I'm not familiar with that particular bike but i do have two Betas with fairly short kickers and both bikes are not to difficult to start with right or left foot. Maybe take a look at the ignition timing to see if the ignition is advanced too far. If its timed correctly you could always retard the ignition. This should reduce compression and make the motor a little easyer to kick.

Hey! are you following me around and watching me ride when I'm not lookin?

If you can get the ride height that you want with less than 10-15mm of preload than your spring is good. The shock damping controls the shock action. If there is no compression adjuster on the shock you could open the shock and replace the oil with an oil that is a few centistokes thicker than the oem oil. This will help with bottoming resistance and will slow the damper compression speed. Just dont go to thick or your rebound adjuster will not have enough adjustment to set your rebound speed where you like it. If you can find out what oil is in the shock you can use these charts to find or mix an oil that is maybe two centistokes thicker. You will know what to do after you make your first adjustment. Use 150 psi nitrogen for the recharge unless the manufacture specifies otherwise. http://www.pvdwiki.com/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/files/Red%20Line%20Mix%20Chart.pdf

What I'm mostly curious to know is how fast do advanced trials riders like their suspension to compress and with what feel. Do they like the suspension easy to compress or hard to compress. Do they like a very liener bouncy feel until the suspension bottoms or do they like the suspension to offer substantial hydrolic resistance as the suspension gets into the midstroke and beyond to slowup the compression stroke.

Technically the EVO is a better bike in many ways, but I think whats more important is what you need in a bike or simply what it is that you want.

Instead of mounting the sidestand on the swingarm. Where it seems to get bent often. It could be mounted on a footrest bracket on either side of the bike and when retracted it could follow the airbox or muffler line similar to KTM. What a brilliant idea!

I currently ride a 2009 Beta 290 Evo. I like the bike, but i have had to to make modifications to the suspension beyond simple adjustments that Beta built into the suspension. I have learned by talking to many trials riders that most trials riders dont put too much emphisis on their suspension setup. Most of them seem to only be concerned with adjusting the spring preload and other than rebound speed dont concern themselves much with the action of the hydrolic control thats built into the dampers front and rear. I am far out of the design envelope in terms of physical size "250lbs" and since Beta seemed to have targeted the OEM suspension setup for somone who weighs 160lbs or less I had to install firmer springs front and rear. The springs i installed work very good at holding the chassis at a good ride height for suspension with six inches of travel. With my current "Light" preload settings the chassis will settle 1 1/2" to 2" with me aboard the bike. Since adding firmer springs I have had to readjust the damping effect because the springs offer more resistance during compression. I guess i could have sent my suspension components off to a shop and had them revalved but I instead chose to adjust damping control by playing with oil viscosity by mixing different viscosity oil's to get the rate of compression feel or control that i am looking for. After many hours of adjusting and testing I can say my suspension works very good for someone my size. It has a bouncy sort of feel and will easily drop into the stroke and offer supplenes without any noticable resistance spikes and still offer me very good bottoming control. I can confidently leap off three foot high ledges without fear of injuring myself or the bike. The reason i am writing this is because i am curious as to how advanced riders like to setup their suspension. How do you like it to feel for attacking larger more technical obstacals. Do you like a bouncy feel or do you like the dampers to offer some midstroke compression resistance so the suspension will ride a little higher in the stroke and offer a more controled feel during compression?

I cant say why the clutch behaved the way it did as its not my bike. Its a dealer demo bike, and it might of had a couple hours on it when i rode it. My hands are pretty thick and the dealers hands are thinner than mine. He setup the bike for himself. He likes the clutch to start to engage just after the lever leaves his knuckles. So naturaly pulling the lever to my knuckles is not going to fully disengage the clutch. It still wouldnt disengage completly by pulling the lever to the bar. If i could have i would have adjusted the lever out some to suit my habits. It's possible this would have solved the problem completly, but I have a feeling the tranny may have had too much oil in it. It was a mix of whatever Beta puts in at the factory and some Maxima tranny lube which he likes. I have my 09 clutch lever set somewhat like yours. I have had to dab a few times due to needing to shift from second to first and not being able to due to the clutch dragging with the lever pulled to my knuckles. So I have adjusted my clutch lever so that the clutch is fully disengaged when the lever gets to my knuckles. It's taken me awhile to learn the feel of the clutch with the lever setup this way, but i now have peace of mind knowing that i can select a different gear when i need to in a section.