scotty97

Run the pipe exactly how you showed me cope and it fits tidy, no kinks etc....

Got out on the bike today, finally!! Nice weather for it to, got a few miles from the house, and had a puncture in the front tyre!! Gutted, I'm sure my bike is jinxed?? Ha On my motox I used to buy extra thick inner tubes,, can you get these for trials bikes???????

Cope, wot you using on that engine and carb to keep it looking so clean??? Looks spotless!!

Cheers cope, exactly what I was looking for!!!

Every time and every way I route the fuel pipe it seems to have a slight kink in it?? Does anyone have a photo showing how they route theirs??? Also tried a few different pipes, they all seem to do it Nearly forgot, bike is a 2007 Sherco 290

Finally spent the day working on the bike, started with changing water pump seals, followed the guide in the pinned section and it was quite straight forward. Then I tackled the electrics, ripped out all the wires that wasn't bring used, old light harness etc and replaced with the little harness from the Splatshop, much neater. Then it was linkage bearings, managed to change the dog bone bearings but struggled to get the two bearings out from under the swinging arm, so have to get some threaded rod and try them again. Also fitted new chain guide as it was worn through. Hopefully take it out for a hour this wk sometime and make sure it's running ok, and then I got some boysen reeds and slow throttle to have a play about with, also want to try retarding timing slightly!!!

Ok il have a read of it now. I thought it's best to change them cos a few wks before I had my problem, I had to top rad up, but I used it once or twice after that and the rad level seemed to stay level. So know I sorted the stator I thought I'd change the seals aswel, better to be safe and all that!!! Ordered seals, bearing, water pump cover oring and clutch case gasket. Service my linkages to as noticed a bearing had a fair bit of movement and was knocking when I put bike up on van.

Can you change the seals by just opening the water pump or do you have to remove the engine side cover? Is it just changing the 2 seals or the bearing aswel????

Well, fitted the new stator and she started 2nd kick. Yippee!!! Right found a few other things that I'm goin to sort at the same time, wires have been butchered to remove lights etc, so hopefully get a new harness for emergency stop. One of the dog bones bearings is knocking, I serviced these a few months back and repacked with grease so I think they may need changing now, luckily got a full set ordered through work a while ago, just in case!! And the problem with my pinky/tan oil, mechanic reckons it doesn't seem like water in it as it normally goes milky/frothy?? Rad is holding it's water level, so any ideas????

Cheers cope, just got off the phone to Splatshop, they got one there on the shelf, so I'm exchanging my faulty one!! Fingers crossed now!!!!!!

So does that mean I can just swap out the 'hall sensor' or do I have to exchange the stator??? Can't find any info on hall sensor on Splatshop website??

Took some readings on the stator Multimeter set on diode check mode Black on earth, red on plug terminal Blue 0 Brown. 0 Black. 0 Red on earth, black on plug terminal Blue. 641 Brown. 0 Black. 772 Resistance readings of other coils White to red. 95 ohms Red to green. 526 ohms Green to White. 609 Kohms ??? Spoke to boys at sp#tshop and they said that going by the readings, it looks like it's gone faulty!!! Anyone have similar readings to this when theirs went faulty???

Did you find out what was wrong with the gear oil. Mine was a pinky tan colour when I dropped it the other day?

Chewy I don't get wot Ur trying to say?? Flywheel has been taken off, and there's defo no spark!!!

Right then, I know it's been a while since I have been able to work on my bike (before people start leaving early comments!!) I have gone through most things and also had a mechanic looking at it too, this is what we found No spark- checked earths, plug, lead, checked wiring cos wires have been cut to remove light etc (why people do this baffles me as you can get a replacement harness for cheap) Removed flywheel- woodruff key is tidy, timing seems to be on factory setting ( will retard when bike is back up and running) Carb is clean Found that fuel pipe was creasing when tank was getting fitted back on bike, must be too long ( what length pipe do people fit between carb and tank Looked down cylinder and seems to be a build up of oil, I'm putting 65ml of oil in every 5 litres of super unleaded, does other people's look like this?? Mechanic reckons that it is not burning all the oil off??? Right then, suppose to be picking up a mates coil tonight to see if replacing that makes a difference, and also printed the test instructions to test the stator at same time. Mechanic reckons the lower compression was due to no fuel getting into cylinder, cos of creased pipe. Seems to be fine now??? Once I manage to get the bike sparking, then next on list is to find how that oil had water in it?? Any other ideas on electrical fault????