goudrons

According to the handbook, It's 1.5% of Synthetic oil Or and 4% Mineral oil. (who still buys the stuff?) Contrary to popular belief, adding a "drop or two extra" doesn't help. You are reducing the fuel to air ratio as some of the petrol is being replaced by the extra oil in the mix, therefore leaning out the fuel to air mixture. They also like the higher octane fuels 98-99 Ron. (Super unleaded). It's thought they suffer a bit of pinging on less octane fuel, certainly my old 2001 and 2007 did!

Leave it in place. The glass window in the left hand engine case will unscrew, so you can tip up the bike and drain the gear box oil.

You are pretty lucky, there's plenty of life in the trials in Kent. Both East Kent and North Kent run Combines and there are plenty of clubs. http://www.nktc.org.uk/ Cover North Kent clubs and events and links to the South East centre site as well. The bigger clubs run monthly club trials, wobblers events, combines events and SE events, so there's usually something local each weekend. Here's some links to a couple of clubs. Owls http://www.owlsmotorclub.org.uk/ and Bexleyheath http://www.motorbiketrials.com/ Bexleyheath also run "intro days" with a couple of club bikes to try. Bikes do change hands between club members and can be found at some events or by asking around. Also Ebay and local dealers (which are often overlooked due to prices, but they do offer lots of advice and help) Everyone has there thoughts what bike and each usually stick to what they like. For a starter bike on a budget, buy on condition and the care that's been lavished rather than a make or model, an abused bike will rack up bills and spoil your enjoyment fairly quickly. Riders that compete fairly regularly rather than ride every now and then on a bit of spare land, tend to make sure their bikes are in good order, so worth asking what they've been doing with it. Once you're into the sport (and trying everyone else's bikes) you usually get a good feel of what you like/dislike. Whatever you look at, check it out carefully.

After reading their brochure, I'm tempted by this "engine fun control sensor". If it's as I suspect, Fun is meant to read Fan, I'm going to be very disappointed! http://www.rebildtrialsport.dk/media/1219/vertigo-combat-brochure.pdf

Parts should not be a problem, check http://www.betausa.com/for dealers. Ebay is a good source of parts, with careful study of the parts catalogs you'll find a lot of parts carried over to the Rev3 (and EVO in some cases), which I think goes for the water pump impeller. http://www.betausa.com/node/708 Jitsie do a bigger water pump kit for the EVO with a metal impeller and I think it also fits the Rev3, not sure it fits the Techno though, again you'd need to check the part numbers. Once the water pump is fixed, make sure the fan kicks in when the coolant heats up, fan motors and thermoswitches can fail, and previous owners attempts to "fix" wires and electrics can be a disaster! DOT4 should be right for hydraulic fluid, a large syringe and short pipe will help back bleed the clutch and brakes from the bleed nipples, they can be a pain to pump bleed as the master cylinders are so small, they only move a tiny amount of fluid, so you can be there all day, pumping the levers and still not get the air out, particularly the rear brake! Putoline NF coolant is ok. Again, Putoline make some decent transmission fluids, their Nano Trans seems to work well in my EVO, though it is expensive. Their Light gear oil is ok though. Anything designed for wet clutches and is 75w is about right. Automatic tranny oils tend to give a snatchy clutch action and anything too thick will feel draggy. Betas clutches do tend to stick when left a few days anyway, so don't worry too much about that, just make sure you free it off (rock it in gear with the clutch pulled in) before you start it up and slam it in gear as they tend to shoot you off through the nearest hedge! There is a Beta clutch mod that worth the time. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/28407-the-beta-clutch-fix/

That's a Mk1 barrel as they had a flange on the barrel to fit the carb (that had a flange) Mk2's and 3's had a stub from the barrel and pipe to attach the carb (that had a stub) Seems someone's had a go at mixing and matching! For an airbox, you could follow the style of the Gripper. That was basically a bolt on to the back of the carb filter with a plastic box around it. Just source a foam, bolt on pitbike filter from Ebay and make/fit a box around it to keep the sh*t off.

The only thing that I've seen that resembles that frame was around 15 years ago when I bought a TY250 off a bloke near Milton Keynes. He had quite a collection of trials oddities from around that period, one being a cantilever Kawasaki KT250 and the frame and swinging arm was the spit of that in your pics on this and your other thread. He told me it was a Bob Gollner, how true that is I don't know, though Gollner did make a few Ossa frames around '73, though as far I am aware, without the cantilever.

Hmm, doesn't look much like Mar to me! Who's cantilever frame is that?

I seem to think they all came with two springs, one on the spindle which wasn't quite enough and another from the other end to a pin on the inside of the swinging arm. The pins on the inside of the swing arm get bent or broken over the years and go missing, so owners don't really know it's meant to be there anymore. See P/N 122835 http://www.custgp.com/a1manual2/Ossa%20Mar%20250%201972%20parts.pdf

I bought a 12mm spindle from Ebay for a pitbike, only a few quid. Fits a treat. Just measure the length of the old one (and remember to account a little for all the bends!) and do a bit of searching on there as many are listed at different lengths.

This is a 2004 parts cat as the 2005 engine cat link appears wonky, but it's the same. http://www.beta-uk.com/images/stories/spares-pdfs/2004/rev3_2t_04_125-200cc_engine.pdf Frame cat, just in case. http://www.beta-uk.com/images/stories/spares-pdfs/2005/rev3_2t_05_125-200cc_frame.pdf

Unless you have some sort of hydraulic issue, say a leak from the master or slave cyclinders or air/dirty rotten fluid in the system, there's no easy fix, you just need to bite the bullet and pull the plates out for a inspection/clean up. It's not uncommon for the master cylinder to leak and kits are reasonably priced to rebuild them, new seals and piston for around £15-£20. First signs of a leaky MC is the little domed rubber dust cover on the end of the MC, between the lever and MC swells due to brake fluid and won't hold in place, it'll keep popping out of the groove or there are dribbles around that area. It's away worth replacing the hydraulic fluid if the age is unknown, easiest way I know is to back bleed the system with a large syringe and a short hose to fit the bleed nipple, just open the slave end and pump it back through from there. A cloth over the open reservoir saves squirting brake fluid 30ft in the air! So worth checking and sorting those first. There's no point filing and sanding away at the plates if they are worn out anyway, so a check of their condition is needed. Off hand I can't remember what the minimum thickness needs to be, but worn plates tend to slip in high gears rather than drag, so yours may be ok. The mod you linked to does help if done carefully, so it is worth the effort, it's painstaking rather than hard. Clean up the fibre plates as described and wash the metal ones off, carefully checking for warps and damage. While you are removing the springs/pressure plate, directly behind is the actuator, it's a flat bearing and two washers that act on the inside of the pressure plate to push it out. Check the bearing is ok and rollers aren't missing from it and the two washers aren't scored or full of burrs. After that, the oil in there has a big effect, too thick and it slows the action badly and tends to stick the plates. Too thin (like ATF) and it gives a grabby, switch like feel to the clutch, neither is best for learning! A decent "lite gear oil" of around 75w is about right. Better still is Putoline Nano Trans, though a bit pricey at around £30 a litre, it does work well and lasts longer between changes. Careful of over adjusting the adjuster between MC and lever. It needs a few mm of play in the end of the lever before it starts to depress the MC (same goes for both brakes as well) Otherwise everything heats up, expands and they start to operate on their own!

All bikes have there little niggles and Beta are no exception, but there's enough owners to have found and ironed out most. The technology on them isn't beyond most mortals, so looking after them is fairly straight forward compered to the degree's needed to look after some. No fancy dan EFi, fuel mappings, throttle bodies and fuel pumps, no pouring fuel in the wrong end either, just a carb and gravity, bliss in this techno mad icrap age! Where ever you are, parts aren't usually a problem, importers and dealers are usually well stocked and helpful, I've heard some complain parts are a little pricey compared to others, but I've only ever ventured from Beta once since 1991, and that 05 Gasgas seemed to break a lot more often! Reports of the water pump casing dissolving seem to be true, but I've never suffered, a sure sign of trouble would be water in the gear oil. I think there was a small batch of frames that cracked around the headstock?? but I seem to think they might have been '09's and Beta did replace them FOC. Any used bike needs a good checking over, but I feel to do this you need to know what you are looking at, so seeing a few in the flesh and talking to owners will give you an idea of what's what. Spend some time working through it chassis first, one end to another, wheels bearings, wheel/tyre condition, disc and pad condition, fork damage, frame damage, leaking hydraulics, rear shock leaks, swinging arm movement, chain, sprockets etc, then move on to the engine.. If the dealer isn't too far away, go back and check again, you're sure to have missed something! There are lots of aftermarket parts available and a used bike will probably have a few, not usually a problem as most are just a bit of "bling", though I do like the aftermarket rear mudguard kit (Bosi??), I can see that being a benefit as my 300 spends quite a lot of the time upside down (without me on it!) Another thing most don't consider is it's easy for someone to make an older bike look newer or a standard bike look Factory, so check the paperwork. (remember models generally came out towards the end of the proceeding year, so there are some 2010's registered in 2009 and so on)

DVLA will only except dating certificates from certain clubs/organisations, they usually work off the frame number and match it with lists the club/organisation keep from manufacturers. https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/359329/V765X1_090914.pdf As there isn't a specific Fantic one on the list, you might need a little more help with this as the VMCC may not hold information on that bike, model, manufacturer. I'm sure someone like Bill Pye http://www.nickandkaren.co.uk/frankfieldfantic.co.uk/ or Bob Wright http://www.fantictrials.co.uk/ should be be able to help you. An MOT and insurance is needed as well, done on the frame number.

MX5 is fully synthetic and should be fine. I've been using Shell's synthetic Advance VSX 2 as it's readily available from my local petrol station rather than hunt around for anything else. Yep, 75ml per 5 litres of 98/99 ron "super" unleaded. The clutch does drag a bit when cold and can stick together solid when left a while, so make sure you put the bike in gear, pull the clutch in and rock it back and forth to free it off before you fire her up and select a gear after it's been left parked up a few days. There are plenty that haven't and lurch off through the nearest hedge as soon as a gear is selected, no matter what the clutch lever is doing! There is a clutch mod that can be done and that does help. Basically you pull out all the plates and clean the fibre plates of glue stuck between the pads and smooth up the edges of tabs. You find it here. it's a PDF in Dan Williams first post (thanks Dan) http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/28407-the-beta-clutch-fix/ It's a painstaking task (thanks again Dan!), but does work, just done it to my Evo clutch and it's made gear selection a lot easier as it's cleared up most of the drag. As the gear oil also wets the clutch plates, whatever oil you use effects the clutch operation. Some use automatic transmission fluid, but it can make it feel grabby and switch like and I'm not 100% certain it does the fibre plates any good, hear it can make the fibres swell. Most light gear oil of 75w is ok, but can make the clutch feel a little draggy and slower. I'm pretty sure some will mix the two to quicken the feel a little in whatever ratios they feel works. I find Putoline Nano Trans makes it feel so much smoother and gives a quick enough action for me, though it isn't cheap, you don't need to change it as often. BTW for greasing the swinging arm and head bearing, use marine grease that's used of boat props etc, seems to keep the water out a little longer.

Yes, replace the cable guide on top of the carb. If it's snapped off clean, you might not be able to get the threaded part out of the carb top, so you might need another of those too. Try http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/index.html They seem to stock most Mikuni parts, though I don't know if the bent cable guide on a Rev 3 is a standard Mikuni part, but I'm sure they'll sort you out with something suitable. The guide it's self shouldn't really need tightening up into the carb top, just screw it all the way in with your hand, then back it out so the cable is at the correct angle (guide points forward) then the lock nut to carb top is nipped up. The Mikuni Carb on these needs the float hieght setting spot on, search on here (or Google) there is a couple of guides on how to set these correctly. There is no clamp between mid box and the front pipe. Inside the mouth of the mid box are a couple of rubber O rings that fit into recesses in the mouth of the mid box, these seal up the joint. http://www.beta-uk.com/images/stories/spares-pdfs/2004/rev3_2t_04_200-250-270cc_frame.pdf Here's the engine one too http://www.beta-uk.com/images/stories/spares-pdfs/2004/rev3_2t_04_200-250-270cc_engine.pdf If it's been on and off a few times, they can get knock out of their recesses or damaged when the front pipe is pushed in. A smear of grease should help hold them in and lude them up when refitting the front pipe. If it's been stored, it worth checking over a few bits before you drag it miles out for a first ride. Foam air filters can be washed out with soapy water, left to dry and a light oiling of two stroke applied (not soaked though) Clean out the air box too, as they can get mucky water dribbling in. Check the swinging arm bearings and bushes for play, clean and regrease them, do the same with the head stock bearings. Check the wheels bearings for play. Check the wheels are true (or near enough!). Check the sprockets aren't worn and hooked over and the chain in it good nic, that's it's free from grit and sh*t. Oil it up well then apply a chain wax to hold the oil on. Check these is a little play (a little slack) in the brake (both F and R) and clutch lever operation, around 2 mm of movement before the rods operate the master cylinder pistons should be about right (see hand book). If you expect to fall off (like the rest of us) loosen the brake lever and clutch lever clamps to the bars ever so slightly, just enough so they will move if you drop the bike, could save broken levers and early bath. Go over all the nuts and bolts and check their torque, I would personally redo both brake discs and rear sprocket bolts and apply thread lock to them. Check the rear tyre doesn't leak air, use soapy water in a trigger bottle to spray around the rim, spoke holes and spoke threads. There is fixes for a leaky rim, if you find one (or more) just ask on here. Most two strokes respond well to having their silencer repacked. The exhaust should have a mellowish bark when you blip the throttle and not sound harsh. Undo the end cap, pull out the perforated pipe and gloopy mess and clean up the pipe. You can get a preformed silencer insert for one of these or wrap the pipe in some silencer matting, but not too tightly. Just wrap enough to hold the perforated pipe in place within the silencer, it should all stuff back in fairly easily, if not, it's too tight. They do like the higher octane fuel and fully synthetic 2 stroke oil (at 1.5% mix) Pointless adding more "just in case" as it leans the overall fuel/air mixture out and clogs the exhaust with unburnt oil.

This sounds like blocked pilot jet. It'll run on choke, but as soon as it's closed it can't draw fuel up the pilot jet due to the blockage so stalls. Clean the carb (and jets) out and try again.

Unfortunately, this forum will not let me link to a guide on float height, but there's a good guide in the first link here. https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=beta+rev+3+float+height Manual here, but it's for an '08, so this model has a different carb and master cylinders, think they were all paper books before this, so try Ebay for one of the exact year, oil capacities are the same though. http://www.betamotor.com/system/attachments/0000/0749/REV3_inglese.pdf The air mixture screw setting is around 1 and 1/2 turns to 1 and 3/4 turns out (as a guide). Adjusting it back and forth from this and you should start sensing the motor hit a "sweet spot" and idle smoothly, make sure you're warmed it up first. Too rich and the motor will sound dull, heavy and laboured (applying the choke a little will make it a lot worse) Too weak and the motor will struggle to return to an even idle after a blip of the throttle. It'll "winga ding ding" on the over run rather than settle quickly to a smooth idle (applying the choke to richen it a little will make it better) Idle speed is personal choice and can be set when warmed up and you're out riding. Too slow and it'll stall to easy particularly if the clutch drags a little (very common), too fast and it'll drive it's self with the clutch out and in gear.

The Beta is a good bike, they changed very little in 8 years. They like the higher octane fuel and fully synthetic oil, otherwise they can pink a bit or knock with a little pre dentonation. I've never had any engine issues in any of mine, but I've heard a few older bikes with grumbling mains. They respond well to a clean exhaust and a silencer repack but don't pack too tightly (or just use a preformed element that's available) Clean the airbox out as well as the air filter regularly, they can let in a little dirty water around the top, pay attention to the airbox lid and the rubber seal. As already written, the casing around the waterpump is prone to corroding, in all the years on Rev3's, I've never suffered though I use Silkolene Pro Cool in there. Water in the gear oil is a sign of trouble, not too expensive to fix. Stators have been know to fail, again I must be lucky not to suffer, there are places that will repair them. Clutches can be a bit annoying, they can stick when stored and drag when warm making gear selction a problem, particularly when stationary. There is a clutch fix at the top of the Beta section, seems to help a little. What oil to put in varies on who you ask, a lot will tell you ATF but after trying nearly everything, Light gear oil or better still Putoline Nano Trans works for me, last a bit longer too. As with most, they can be a little noisy too. Have a search around regarding setting up the float height on the Mikuni carb, they are fitted at a steep angle and it's important to set them correctly to stop them leaking out of the vents, flooding the engine or leaning out or stalling down hill. Better still would be to bin it and fit a Dellorto VHST flatslide, can be expensive to buy but the improvement over the old Mikuni is amazing. I managed to pick one up and jet it for around half Beta UK wanted, jets and setting are on here or I can dig mine out and post them if needed. The rear suspension works fairly well considering it's such a short shock and you haven't the argo of a load of extra bearing, bushes and seals of a linkage. Check and regrease the swinging arm bearing and bushes regularly, marine grease (made for boat props etc) works well and lasts a bit longer. Time can take it's toll on the rear shock though, many have suffered from the bladder in the damper failing (keeps the gas from the oil), the rear suspension goes soggy and it starts leaking (and sounds like a sink plunger when bounced). Beta Uk used to repair them, not sure if they still do, but cost was quite high. Olle (as fitted to the Jotagas) do a replacement, bit of a budget unit, but works well.

If it's been stood a while, as already mentioned green furry crap seems to leech out of modern petrol and gum everything in the carb up. The advice about draining the float chamber when left unused is wise, just shut the fuel tap off when you're finished with the bke and slacken the cap at the bottom (27) until it stops dribbling. By the sounds of it, the inlet valve to the float chamber has jammed open, allowing fuel to poor in from the tank unrestricted. As you've discovered, it pours out of the float chamber overflow and vent tube, but it'll almost certainly pour out of the float chamber and into the engine due to the fact the carb on these are tilted so far forward when mounted. This will fill the crankcases with raw fuel, flooding it up. First, as prompted already, clean the carb out well, if unsure about how it goes back together, there are plenty of Mikuni diagrams floating around the 'net like this http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/exp-vm.html Pay attention to the float chambers inlet valve and seat (34) and jets, particularly the narrow pilot jet (21) Remove them and look through the small hole to verify they are clear, often you've no choice but to poke them with a fine strand of copper wire to clear them. The green crap is stubbon, but don't be tempted to chisel at it. The carb's float height is very important on these due to the mounting angle, as a high shut off height will allow the chamber to pour over allow the engine to flood up, too low and it pinks and bangs as it's starved of fuel. Search the forum/internet, there's plenty of advice about setting them correctly. Now that's sorted, remove the spark plug, lay the bike flat on the right hand side and repeatedly pump at the kick starter, I'll bet it fires black sooty petrol out of the plug hole. Keep at it until this black petrol starts to clear up. Refit the carb and plug and try starting again.

You need some way of holding the flywheel and clutch inner while you undo the nuts. One of these works well, it's what I've used on many rebuilds and it will work both ways around, studs to hold flys one way and tangs to hold the teeth of clutch inners the other. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Clutch-Holding-Tool-Lockable-Clamp-For-Gear-Hub-Basket-Flywheel-/221523009997?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3393cce1cd A puller is needed to actually remove the flywheel from the crank as it sits on a taper. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLYWHEEL-PULLER-30-x-1-5mm-BETA-EVO-BETA-REV-3-SHERCO-TRIALS-/161275881184?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item258ccaa6e0 Once the cases are split, DO NOT bash the mains out of the cases, gently heat the cases around the bearings, often boiling water (arrange a rag around the bearings to hold the water to the cases) or heating them in a oven is enough to expand the cases enough to push the bearings out. Again, gently heat the cases to fit the new, with a very gentle tap with a socket (around the outer bearing race) will see them seated properly. The main bearings are 30x62x16 in size (6206), use a good quality one, like FAG, SKF not an Ebay spanky****y special. Note: Not any old 30x62x16 will do though, main bearing need to run a certain clearance and it's usually C3 that are the minimum standard needed, though often C4's are fitted to modern engines as well, check the numbers on your old bearings. I believe the main seals are viton 25x40x7 both sides.

As with all parts that move against another, they wear. Beta and most other manufacturers state a guide to check and compensate for this wear. The guide takes into account the piston it's self, the piston rings and the cylinder bore. This bore isn't a steel liner like days of old, modern cylinders are made of alloy for lightness and a special, thin, chrome like plating is adhered to it. This plating is fairly expensive compared to reboring a steel liner and cannot be rebored as a steel liner would be. Another method which works out a little cheaper is needed to compensate for wear and keep the engine sweet as. You'll find the guide will indicate the use of new pistons. Betas (and others) way around this wear and expense is to offer pistons in increasing sizes, not massive jumps in size like older bikes would use on a rebore (.25, .50, .75 etc) but pistons microns larger than the last, usually idenified by letters A, B, C, D. So a new engine will start out with an A piston, run for X hours/miles, measured and if needed a B piston fitted to keep the fine piston to bore clearance used on these modern engines, and so on until D is reached (and worn out), then a replate is needed, you'd then supply the replater with an A piston to start again. Believe it or not, this is far cheaper than fitting a new piston and replating the cylinder everything, the replate would only be needed once the bore had become too worn for D piston. There is a uk company that replate, Langcourts of Weston Super Mare, Quality is good, probably better than factory.

Usual suspect for a popping exhaust is a leak somewhere drawning in air and leaning it right out (does the popping go if you open the choke a little?) But as we're talking about a Beta I would say it's the Mikuni carb being a Mikuni carb! You can check it has the right jets and the float height is set correct (important due to the angle it's fitted at), this may help. I write "may" help, but there are endless threads on the subject of these carbs and Beta's, after years of fiddling and resetting float heights myself to cure various pops, bangs and pings on a succession of different Betas, including some terrible pre detonation on several Rev 3's, I came to the same conclusion Beta did in 2008 and binned the fecking thing. A Dellorto 26mm VHST bought cheap from a Scooter spares place in Holland for a hundred Euros has transformed whatever Beta I've fitted it too, along with a Ossa Mar which runs perfect on it without any adjustments.

This will help with part numbers: http://www.trialsport.com.au/beta/Parts/Zero%2092.pdf Try your importer first. I found this with in 10 seconds on Google. http://www.trialsnuts.com/Betaclear.htm

I had one of these, but a "91. They came with either a 240 or 260 motor. I bought mine "in boxes" as someone had taken it apart for some reason, turned out the seals/bearing on the water pump shaft inside the motor failed, I only found this out after I've screwed it back together! Later I bought a knackered second hand motor for some spares and that had done the same! The swinging arms was also noted for cracking, straight through the tops of the tubes that house the bearings for the pivot. Can be welded if you can find someone talented with alloy welding. I also remember a few slips that caused me to land on that square edged tank/frame, that made my eyes water! Other than that, a great bike and I think Lampkins can supply most parts without too much trouble