goudrons

As stated, the rear tyre should be without an inner tube. People fit them because these rims can leak, either through the tyre bead, around the valve or more likely around the spokes. Again as written already, they aren't designed for a tube, the low pressure makes the tube creep and damage the valve or you end up suffering lots of tube pinch problems. (BTW you can reduce pinching on a proper tube type tyre by fitting a narrow tube like a 350 instead of a 400, so once the pressure is out, it's not as baggy inside the tyre) But with a bit of patience and care these rims can be made air tight. First, make sure you have a tubeless rear tyre, a tube type just won't seal to the rims. I managed to make mine air tight like this: Strip the tyre off and bin the rubber centre band and valve. Clean up the inside of the alloy rim to remove any corrosion. Replace any rusty nipples and true up the wheel, it's important you have the correct tension on the spokes/nipples. Place a small blob of silicone sealant on the top of each nipple and with a wet finger, smooth over and leave over night to go off. Replace the centre band and valve with one of these. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/wheel-rim-tape-with-valve-jitsie.html The valve is bonded to the band, so it negates the chance of a leak there. They can be fiddly to fit, but if you liberally spray the band and rim with silicone spray, it should snap into the rim and tuck up into the grooves each side of the centre trough. Refit the tyre on the rim, first making sure the tyre beading is not kinked or split. Push the tyre over to one side and paint a thin strip of bead sealer around inside edge of the flange, repeat on the other side. http://www.tyrebaydirect.com/153-Tyre_Fitting_Chemicals_and_Solutions/89839-Bead_Sealer_950ml.html?si=1&gclid=CjwKEAjw0a2eBRDVrabv9vWJ90USJACsKRDHPyrLP8ehjt_9l21C2MN3FR4FElS4bagCxf3zxpCE-BoCviXw_wcB To inflate you either need a compressor which can supply a lot of pressure very quickly or a tyre beader like this http://www.splatshop.co.uk/YOU HAVE USED WORDS OR A PHRASE WHICH ARE NOT PERMITTED ON THIS WEBSITE. PLEASE DELETE YOUR POST/TOPIC. DO NOT TRY TO CIRCUMVENT THE FILTERS IN PLACE ON THIS WEBSITE-tyre-bead.html You lude the beader up first (silicone spray) tuck it in between the rim and the tyre on one side to seal up the tyre/rim and pump the tyre up until it inflates and pops the beader out. Try without the inner valve core first and inflate until the bead "pops" on the rim all the way around. Check the tyre in seated, they have a habit of tucking up in one spot on the rim and usually need 50+ lbs before they pop all the way around. That should keep it all air tight!

Well done on the Rev 3. Everyone has the favourite bikes, but you can't go too far wrong with one. I've had a couple now (with a misguided GasGas encounter) and they are fairly hardy beasts. Parts aren't a problem either, but you need to bear in mind they are all getting on a bit in "trials" years and most need a good fettling or a bit of attention here and there. Unless there's signs of recent replacement, I always like to check/grease/replace the bearings in the wheels, swinging arm and headshock of a used bike, some don't always get checked and greased by the average Joe often enough. Replace all the fluids, including clutch/brake/fork. Chain and sprockets. Air fliter and brake pads. (if needed, thin ones tend to cause the two pot calipers to jam as the pistons come out a bit too far) Repack the silencer. (loosely pack with silencer wool or fit a cartridge from your Beta agent) I've had a rear shock go, think the bladder that seperates the oil from gas splits and gives a soggy back end. Olle do a replacement cheap enough. The clutch can stick and drag a little, there are various fixes, most are posted on here somewhere, but once they're free and warmed up they tend to be ok. The standard round slide Mikuni carb is a bit of an old dog these days compared to the modern flat side items, the angle it's fitted cause it to need the float height and vent tubes setting up perfect. Or you could put it in the bin where they belong these days and fit a Dellorto VHST, I bought a cheap one from a Scooter spares place and jetted it up for less than £100. Sort it so it's riding nice (and you the same) before forking out on shiny stuff to make it look good!

Not sure what, apart from colours was different about the '03 from the '02. What I know (or think I know) is: 2000 models had upside down forks. 2001 had the air box on the left side and the thermo switch in the top of the rad. 2002 onwards had the air box in the seat and thermo switch in the bottom of the rad. 2006 onwards the rear light changed. 2007 onwards I think had fatbars, black forks, different exhaust guard. (I think somewhere around this time the brakes changed as well) 2008 was when they binned the drippy Mikuni Carb for a Keihin. I'm sure there are more changes, along the way and a couple of grams shaved off over the years, you could try one of the Beta importers sites and down load the various part manuals.

Have you contaminated the pads and or disc with anything? Are the brakes binding? It's important there's a tiny amount of free play in the pins that operate the master cylinders, quite often owners over adjust them and cause the brakes to bind on. When mine get a bit creaky, I run it up and down with the brakes on to generate heat in the discs, the wash them off with some clean water.

A couple of helpful people I've come across when doing mine http://ossacels.com/tiendas/index.php?cPath=22_57&osCsid=2f4dad4569c9eef630094e13fda93d13 http://stores.ebay.es/VINTAGE-SPANISH-BIKES And of course Steve Sells.

Ok, the facts are as follows. October 2011 One barrel was sent off to be relined. Febuary 2012 I had to collect it and pay for the work. March 2012 I had to return it as it did not fit the crankcase. Late March 2012 it was fitted and it rattled, I was told by an independent engineer it was because the ports were not finished. April 2012 the liner slipped in the barrel so the head would not seal. May 2012 it was returned on the request of the engineer on the promise he would sort it. December 2012 the part has still not been returned. Of course between all these dates there has been calls and visits, trying to get the part back. Is it reasonable to think I have a valid complaint and that others in the sport should know who is responsible by posting their name on this forum? Yes, I do understand there are legal means of recouping losses, but does this stop anyone else from same treatment?

Zippy, it wasn't an immediate jump I'm afraid. As I wrote earlier, I have tried to express my displeasure before. Another user posted a similar story, to which I added my comments, it was only a matter of hours before the post was removed. I did not breach any of the forum rules http://www.trialscen...tion=boardrules So it seemed, although my comments were accurate and so forth, someone somewhere for unexplained reasons, decided you should not see it Whoever it was must have certain access rights to this forum and whatever is posted on it. They decided without any consideration to my post that it will be removed. Perhaps I should reconsider the term "dictator" and I apologise if it offends, but is there another term that can be used for someone arbitrarily removing the original post? We, as a nation aren't considered "complainers", we put up and shut up, but why is this? Are we made to or have we been coralled some way? This sort of brings me back to my post above and my asking other users views on whether it's considered correct to "name and shame" on such a forum, other forums do and consider it an essential tool to warn others. I've yet to decided either way, but one thing to consider is the sort of money now spent on classic trials machinery, these aren't trifling figures anymore, but can be large investments. Is it right that a minority can be "let off the hook" and spoil our sport? I think not, but what I'm asking is what do you think? Is there a difference because it's "our" sport and we don't think anyone in it would do such a thing, would everyone consider it acceptable if it was a washing machine from a high street chain? BTW, I don't know what the Potato reference is about either!

They are fair questions, is it a open forum and should the public know of a genuine concern? Will users want to know? Will it be allowed?

October 2011 I sat on Santa's knee and when he asked me what I wanted for Christmas, I told him I wanted my barrel relined. He said it was a fairly simple request and to send it to his little Elf to undertake the work. Christmas 2011 came and went and Santa's little Elf had let me down, no barrel, no liner, nothing. As Easter approached, the Easter Bunny reckoned he could fit into one of his lovely eggs if I visited the north pole to collect the barrel! I set off in the snow to collect it and pay for it, only to find when I got it home it would not fit the crankcase mouth. So off I went back to the north pole with it to get it put right. Once I returned again from the arctic circle, I discovered, once built up, the engine hammered and rattled like a jack hammer! Seems Santa's little Elf might not have finished the ports, to which I had confirmed. http://www.trialscen...l-out-of-ideas/ Never mind, it's a simple job to finish, but my faith in the little Elf was failing. I gave up on him and got it done locally. So now it's right? Wrong! First time out the liner sank in the barrel, seems the liner had moved and as there was a gap under the liners lip, it sank down so it would not seal the head. After this I made my displeasure with the Elf's work public and he didn't like it one bit. He phoned me up promising to put it right, that was back in May. (you can see where I went wrong, yes I sent it back to him!) Well it's December now and Santa's little Elf hasn't delivered. Calls and visits seem to make no difference, promised have been broken time and again, the barrel and piston I paid for seemed to have gone forever?? Well I think it's time Santa and his Elf are shamed, what do you all think? Is it time to kiss this barrel, piston and my money goodbye forever? Will this forum prove to be an open one and allow me to legitimately air my concerns or will it turn into a dictator and curb or ban my genuine concerns that perhaps could save others from the same fate? I want your input, should the little Elf be named and shall it be done on Christmas day?

No, but neither would I throw either bike off a ledge I knew I couldn't get up! Whichever bike it is, if I can get it up, I know I can get it back down. The OP wondered what a 175 will handle, if he's skilled enough to climb a 3 foot step on it, he's skilled enough to get it back down again without ruining it.

I ride a 175 plus a 07 Beta. I always look at these things the other way around, if any bike (and me) is capable of getting up a step/bank/climb etc, the bike (and me) is capable of getting it back down again! Without resorting to bending metal. It's not always the case (I have a small collection of bend pieces), but it's a good starting point!

I extended my 175 like this Cut up under the shock mount (but not all the way through), than out backwards. Welded a piece in of around an inch. This way is just brings the slots for the spindle back just over an inch, but you haven't cut all the way through or had to alter the shock angle or mounts. The 175 is a little short, wheelbase wise and it can make the front end a bit flighty on climbs, also the tyre is very tight against the front of the arm and likes to collect mud, so much so it can jam the wheel. (lots of wet mud over here!) So far it's worked well, it allows the mud to pass, keeps the front end down a little better on climbs and helps with the feel of the rear suspension. One thing, you need to lengthen the brake torque arm by the same amount. I just made another longer one out of a bit of alloy bar.

The kick start shaft is pretty easy to remove once you've removed the cover, just unhook the spring and it should pull out. Most go this way, my old one from 35 year ago went like this, the lever it's self wore away the splines as well, so it may need a new one. John Cane at http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/ might be able to help with a new shaft. PN: 3531566001 I think it is still available new. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-OEM-YAMAHA-KICK-START-STARTER-KICKER-SHAFT-GT80-TY80-RD60-MX80-DT80-GTMX-/200764994198?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ebe86b296 In the states and they aren't cheap! As for the Carb/manifold/airbox, has it got all the correct parts? According to this http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-ty80b-19741975_model8521/partslist/B-04.html#results and http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/cat_43336-10-Carburetor.html there should be a spacer ring (35) on the airbox end of the carb. You might need to make something up to bridge the gap. If you're a real beginner, get yourself one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0464-Haynes-Workshop-Manual-Yamaha-TY50-TY80-TY125-TY175-1974-to-1984-/160696958439?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item256a48fde7

Pilot jet blocked? The bike is meant to idle/run slowly on the pilot jet. If it's blocked it'll start and run on choke but the minute it's turn off it'll die unless it's rev'd up high enough to run on the main jet. Old fuel is a likely cause and fuel goes off within a few weeks these days. Take the carb off and clean it out, remove and check the little jets and blow them out with some carb cleaner/air (so you can see daylight through them) The pilot is usually a little slot headed screw up inside the float bowl with a tiny hole in it. Check the fuel in the tank isn't contaminated, it's also worth fitting a little inline fuel filter. If you are going to store your bike more than two weeks, turn the fuel off and drain the fuel out of the float bowl. Most carbs like the dellorto have a nut under the float bowl to drain off the fuel. (don't turn the fuel off and run the bike dry, you'll end up overheating it)

It's fitted to my '07! Ring Haven trialsport, (I think Splat shop do them as well) you might have to specify a different spring depending on your weight. Standard spring suits me at 14 stone, had to wind on the preload to about half way. I believe Wilbers do a shock as well, but it's a lot more. They are available from here http://www.revsracing.co.uk/

Mine went on my '07. After chasing parts to repair it I came across this http://www.haventrialsport.co.uk/product_info.php/bosi-bttt0017-bosi-top-trial-team-shock-absorber-p-211294 I ordered one and it came within a week. Made by Olle and it seems to work as it should.

You need to host it on a file sharing site, then you will be able to link to it within a post.

Check the swinging arm carefully, around the top/bottom of where the bearings fit. They were prone to cracking along there. I had a 91 (black and green) a few years ago that I bought in boxes and had to rebuild. Lampkins helped me with quite a few parts.

I need some glasses! I read (and found) 1999 Techno, not 1996, sorry. Yes, the earlier models had a pick up off the rear wheel.

number 45 here on the front axle. http://www.haventrialsport.co.uk/index.php/1999-frame-c-171_185_187 They were often removed and a spacer fitted when the speedo was removed.

Wasn't there two typres of piston for these, an early and late piston? . I seem to remember the later model piston had two recesses in either side of the piston head to help the swirl and the earlier one didn't. As Feetup writes, you need to measure the old piston and measure the bore too, then work out what size up you need to go (taking into account the piston clearance) as a really worn/scored bore may need to go out past the next size up. Most two stroke/motorcycle engineers will be able to do this correctly for you. Genuine pistons are getting thin on the ground, so it's worth getting an opinion of someone in the know about which to use. Maybe these can help http://www.bjracing.com/ty350.html

Try Ebay, there is a chap (Euroski or something similar) that breaks TY's, keep an eye out and you might get a decent set. He usually breaks one a week and is an excellent seller, had many bits and bobs off him. There was a couple of sets on there the other night when I looked. There are other rechromers, prices do differ, but not by much. I know there are replacement tubes available, I've seen them listed here http://www.bjracing.com/ty175.html but he's in the states. Some owners are also fitting TY 250 Mono front ends with the larger diameter tubes, seems to take some of the flex out of the 30mm originals.

no, but Bill Pye will know http://www.nickandkaren.co.uk/frankfieldfantic.co.uk/

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item51a28b269d or http://www.haventrialsport.co.uk/product_info.php/beta-techno-frame-ref-094-2528070-000-brake-pedal-p-201093

Yamaha parts number http://www.cmsnl.com...als_model16818/ Fuel/Tank parts http://www.cmsnl.com...01.html#results All these parts are still available, so your local dealer will be able to order them up for you.