goudrons

try http://www.nickandkaren.co.uk/frankfieldfantic.co.uk/ or http://www.r2wtrials.co.uk/html_files/bobwright.html Either should be able to post one out. Failing that, an engineer should be able to turn one up and cut the right thread for you if they can't supply a suitable one already.

Yes, it's me, when I was braver, slimmer and younger! The clutch drag may be due to being stood, but it's worth checking everything is in good order. Remove the clutch friction plates and check them for wear, renew if needed, yes there is a helpful guide in the Beta section (I think) about cleaning up the glue off the plates. Also check the inner edges of the clutch basket "fingers". Where the tabs around the outside of the friction plates fit in the slots of the basket, the tabs can often wear grooves on this edge causing them to stick as they should slip smoothly. A light file can clean these basket edges up. . Check the steel plates, are they bent or kinked, these can sometimes "cone" so they aren't flat anymore. If they look "blued" through heat, I light wipe over with some fine emery paper may clean them up. There's a rod and ball bearing that fits through the main shaft that operates the clutch, make sure the rod isn't bent. Oil up the cable (I think is was still cable on these) and the correct gearbox oil and you should be away. Automatic Transmission Fluid may make it feel lighter, but expect a bit more clutch noise and PJ1 do a clutch tuner fluid that works pretty well. If it's been stood a while and only runs on choke, it's highly likely the pilot jet is blocked in the carb with gummed up fuel. A good carb clean is needed.

Did he not ride for Italjet in 1980? (ok, the Italjet may have been a bultaco painted green!!) And SWM from 1982? I think he also dabbled on a TY in 1986 and a Fantic in 1987. I bet there are plenty of his bikes still knocking around.

http://www.nickandkaren.co.uk/frankfieldfantic.co.uk/

I had one of these a few years ago, quite a tall beast. Bought it as a project as the engine was cooked. Turns out the cooling arrangement isn't the best, what with the rad slung under the tank along the top tube, it doesn't get much air aprt from what it rising off the engine! Turned into a kettle when it got hot, spitting boiling coolant out of the cap all over your B*****ks. Seemed someone had run it like this and ruined the piston and bore, melting the hose directly under the head stock. The rebuild wasn't that painful from what I remember, think the upside down fork seals gave me the biggest problem. Bottom end and gearbox is standard Fantic stuff, so no real trouble. Bill Pye's your man for spares and advice, he may help with some sort of diagrams, I think line drawings of exploded parts is about the best you can get, manual wise, I never found anything better, but it's hardly needed.

You can remove the oil pump part of the cable from the junction box and just run straight to carb. And Venhill make several cables for these, standard twist grip with oil pump, standard without, amal twist and so on. http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/cat_43346-20-Handlebars-Cables.html The oil pimps got removed as they never worked properly, a pain to set up and if they went wrong, major damage would occur! If you do run on pre mix, don't forget to bung up the oil feed on the inlet (me thinks it's on top of the inlet manifold)

Also check the swinging arm, around where the spindle fits, I had one crack right across both ends there and seen others that had been repaired.

For parts and advise try Bill Pye, Frankfield Garage, Frankfield Pl, Great Ayton, Middlesbrough Cleveland, TS9 6BZ tel 01642 722378 http://www.nickandka...o.uk/index.html or Bob Wright Motorcycles Weston super Mare, Somerset. BS22 6JN. Telephone. +44(0)1934 510333

You don't get much different than one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MECATECNO-SKYWALKER-325cc-TRIALS-BIKE-1990-ONLY-200-EVER-MADE-GREAT-CONDITION-/251090418489?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item3a7627bb39 Sort one of these out properly and you're making money. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-RTL250S-1985-HAND-BUILT-RARE-TRIALS-BIKE-NEEDS-FINISHING-/200769303872?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item2ebec87540 Something cheaper and different http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JCM-240-AIR-COOLED-MONO-TRIAL-NOT-TLM-TLR-FANTIC-OSSA-BETA-995-ONO-PX-/200781012318?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item2ebf7b1d5e My choice, a little different, but most of the parts should be available. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/4608-beta-tr34/

The original swinging arm isn't wide or long enough to take a 4 inch trials tyre without fouling, either phyically or with mud once the tyre has picked it up. There is a kit from Sammy Miller products http://www.smproducts.co.uk/products/frames?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.v9.tpl&product_id=604&category_id=17&keyword=swinging+arm You can modify the original one yourself by altering the tubing where the tyre passes the right hand leg, so it's got more clearance, also adding around 30-40mm to the length will help with clearance across the front, it will also help give a better feel to the rear suspension. To lengthen mine, I cut just in front of the holes for the spindle and added 40mm in there so the lower shock mounts stayed where they should be but the wheel moved back.

I'm not up with what parts are fitted to which. You can cross reference parts here http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-motorcycle_model16707/ A quick look and transmission seems to have the same part numbers, as does the crankcase halves and so on. I'd say the GT80 was the same engine apart from the stator, as you've found out, it has a lighting coil and the TY doesn't. Methinks there will be similar shared parts with the DT50, RD60, GT80 and probably a load of others.

Should keep your wallet busy for a while! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-GT1-GT-MX-GT80-RD60-TY80-YZ80-80-Clutch-Basket-NOS-OEM-353-16150-01-00-/110862856695?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19cff0f1f7&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-RD60-YZ80-TY80-GT1-Clutch-Basket-PRI-NEW-NOS-/190137003586?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c450c6e42&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-Yamaha-TY80A-TY80-Clutch-/120589195819?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c13ad1a2b&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-TY80-Shift-Shaft-Asy-1974-75-NOS-NEW-/110507866642?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19bac83a12&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-YAMAHA-VINTAGE-CHANGE-SHAFT-ASSY-TY80-1974-75-/150790477908?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231bd01854&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-YAMAHA-TY80-TY-80-A-SHIFTER-SHIFT-SHAFT-/350242895883?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item518c1a780b&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-TY80-TY-80-KIDS-TRIALS-CLUTCH-MECHANISM-KIT-/230794814207?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item35bc7162ff http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-TY80-TY-80-KIDS-TRIALS-BIKE-CLUTCH-PUSH-ROD-/230797546375?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item35bc9b1387

1, Yes. http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/cat_43333--7-Shifter-2-Gear-Lever.html First, Remove the gear lever, remove the left hand cover. Prise the circlip off the left hand end of shaft (4) and remove the washer (13). Working from the over side of the engine, remove the clutch. Behind is the selector claw (1) Prise off the claw retaining circlip (the other 4) Press the claw down and lift away. Remove the roller (7) and pull the shaft (8) out. 2, Someone has tried to jam the clutch basket with a screwdriver or something to undo the nut and broken the basket. There is a flywheel/clutch tool that saves this http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/prod_424514-Clutch-amp-Flywheel-Holding-Tool.html It should work with one missing, but it may not feel right. Check the inner edges of these pieces of the basket, they get damaged by the plates rubbing on them, you can often file then flat again to make the clutch action smoother as the plates will run against them without sticking, also the clutch rod can get bent causing a stiff clutch that kids won't be able to operate. There is a kit to refurb this http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/prod_147748-1626-Clutch-Arm-Repair-Kit-TY80.html

I can't see a rack being any use on a classic Mini, swap it for a Mini pickup, but they hold a kings ransom these days. Add the bike's weight to the weight of the rack and as stated above, you'll be way over the nose weight limit, probably over the limit on most common hatchback/saloon cars as most rate about 70kg max, even cars you'd expect to be able to lug heavy stuff don't always live up to it when you check the rating in the handbook. Stuff a tool box and a few odds and sods in the boot and you're looking at an accident at the first bend in the road you come to! The weight on the rear will unload the front wheels, causing all sorts of drive and handling issues, don't forget the front wheels steer but also most are FWD these days as well. Short, narrow trailers also don't handle that well, so start looking for a decent motorcycle trailer, most will be narrower than the car anyway, around 1.1 or 1.2 metres. Collapsible ones are popular, but check how they fit together, nuts and bolts and better than pins and clips, if a little slower to assemble. Good suspension units that are rated above the weight of the bikes you're planning on lugging is a good idea, no point buying something only rated 150kg if you plan on shifting a big sport bike every now and then. Also worth noting there are some cheap copy suspension units knocking around with bearing problems, so look for a brand like Indespension.

Yes, Black/White seems to be the wire to the coil. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1974-Yamaha-TY80A-TY80-Stator-/120592934523?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c13e6267b Your stator must be off something else like a DT/TY50 or something, as it sounds like it has a generator coil in there as well. What are the other wire colours, Yellow and Green? Not that it really matters, as long as the ignition side works, I suppose you can run a A/C lighting system and use it to commute to work on! I had one of these bikes as a kid and I loved it to bits, literally! They'll take a YZ100 piston if it's a tired bore, perks it up a little.

They probably removed the shaft and mechanism, the splines on the shaft wear. Everything from 8 to 17 here http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/cat_43334--8-Kick-Starter.html Wiring? Oh yes, the one wire from the magneto!

Never come across the TY80 manual online, someone does a CD you pay for and Haynes do a manual, ebay or amazon for a copy. I've a Haynes, so if there is any info you need, let me know. Closest I've found is for the 175, they aren't worlds apart, though there are differences, obviously! http://www.trialsport.com.au/TY175/ John Cane has all the exploded diagrams on his site that may help http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/cat_43326--TY80-Parts.html

You can get Mikuni to work well on the Bantam. VM26-8074 Main 130, Pilot 35, Slide 2.0, float valve 2.5, needle jet 182-P0, Needle 5DP39, Air jet 0.5 Eurocarbs may have some idea for a Dellorto http://www.dellorto.co.uk/

TY175 cases come up on ebay every now and then, there are a couple of sellers that break them regularly and don't want the earth for parts. Unfortunately I just let a good matching pair go. Careful of the case around the gearbox output shaft and where the selector fork arm fits from inside (black plastic cap near the sprocket), they tend to get smashed up when the chain comes off, the bad ones can have the cases split open around the output shaft. As stated, the stopping lug on the inner end of the kickstart shaft is only pressed on and works lose, allowing the lot to over return and smash the outer case.

I've not seen the manual, but they usually say these need checking and measuring at certain intervals (your 60 hrs??) If they are past the tolerance then it's time to look at either fitting one of the larger pistons to retain the correct clearance, whether that be a B, C, or D or If these are still not big enough to do that, replate back to A piston size. Though often it's replated to whatever size piston is available at the time! Each manufacturer will set these tolerances, most are fairly similar as pistons are of similar manufacture, but if these measurements aren't in the manual, it's either the dealer or importer that will know. I reckon you'll find most will run it until it's shagged on that piston and bore, then slag the model off for poor performance, then buy a new piston and replate!!

You'll find the bore is coated (Nikasil) and not reborable (is that a real word??). The pistons are listed in increasing sizes, A, B, C etc as one is microns bigger than the next, so instead of replating everytime the bore/piston wears, the next piston can be fitted until D, then it's a recoat back to the A piston.

It's always a good idea to write down your setting once you get the bike running as you like it. Carb jets, float height, needle postion, timing setting etc. So when you get lost doing your next mod, you always have a base set up that you know works to refer back too.

Yes, I have used those Goneli guards and they're ok, but not in that colour!! There is a neat trick of cutting the flap off the back of the front guard, trim it around to oval it off, you can make out the line it trims to in the pic, then used that end as the front. Like this There is a longer rear available, works well with the Cub. http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3376440cda

Make sure you support the carb, especially if you're running a bolt on filter and there is nothing holding that end of the carb up or you'll split that connector in no time. So it idles, picks up and revs out ok now? I'll be at the evening series at the heights next month, if you're going I'll probably see you there.

A different day and a different thought, but couldn't the 250 pin be utilised? Cut the middle out of the 250 pin so you have 2 ends that will already fit the holes on the 250 piston (and the clips will hold in) but won't interfere with the space for the little end. Then from the inner end of these two 250 pin pieces, open the ID just enough to take the 175 Pin, but don't go all the way through. You may have to shorten the 175 pin a little, but if you measure the two end pieces of the 250 pin correctly any difference between the space for the little end in the 250 piston and the 175 little end can be taken up. You're also not having to machine a bush from scratch to fit the holes in the 250 piston, the 250 pin already fits the 250 piston perfectly!!