goudrons

They're playing tricks! It's just a carbon fibre cover over the WES expansion box, stops me pants melting! The shocks are Betors, though I'm not 100% happy with them, the action is a little better since I lengthened the swinging arm, but I think the Mrs will throw me out if I fork out on some Magicals!!

Spent far too much on it!

I've just noticed your club and area, feel free to contact me as I'm fairly local and ride in your area.

Brucey, you need to make sure everything else is right before attempting to tune in a carb. Timing out, valves incorrectly set (I had a similar problem when my inlet valve guide wore and leaked, evident by black crude in the inlet tract) an air leak and you'll be chasing your own a*** around forever. From the carb and jets etc you listed, you shouldn't be that far off, 35 to 40 pilot, 100 to 110 main, though I would add to that list a 40 slide. By what you write, running on choke and dying without it with that carb and settings, I'd hazzard it's sucking in air from somewhere as whatever is effecting it isn't only effecting pilot (slow running) but main circuit as well.

This is something I've been pondering recently as I'm planning a similar conversion. I was thinking of a cap type bush that will fit over the ends of the 175 pin then in through the hole in the 250 piston. I gather the 175 pin is shorter?? So the cap ends will take up the end gaps and be able to hold everything in on the clips. You may have to drill the ends of the cap outby the ID of the 175 pin to allow oil in and out. I think you'd need to drill out the bush in line with any feed holes inside the piston as well. (though I think the gen 250 piston doesn't have these holes like the gen 175 does) Does that make sense??

Is it leaking from the overflow pipe out the bottom or from somewhere else? This may help The inlet valve and seat may be gummed up or have grit in it and sticking open. You can see the valve attached to the float assembly when it's being refitted, the seat is in the card body that the valve sits in. A good clean with carb cleaner may help and I find a can of compressed air is handy (from PC shops), don't scrape at it with a screw driver!! It's usually common if the bike has been stood a while with old fuel in the carb. If you remove the carb and undo the float bowl off the bottom and it's all slimy and green in there, it's probably gummed up. Sometimes a gentle tap with a screwdriver handle can free it off without removing or unscrewing, but this will only help move a bit of grit (or rust in my case!) There are other reasons it may leak, like the float bowl gasket leaking, (grit in the seal), a float punctured (is one full of petrol?) or the float level incorrect and the fuel level in the bowl is too high. The last one is best left to someone who is familier with these carbs or you have the correct setting and are confident you can set it correctly. When working on the carb, clean off the outside well before opening it up. It's delicate inside, so no hammers! Try not to bend the float brace and make sure everything is spotless before screwing back together.

Closest online workshop manual I know of is this http://northover.com...ahaTYManual.htm But is for the 350. Most of it will be useful, though. You can always look on ebay, try widening you search to US Aus, Can and NZ. These may help with the rattle http://www.earplugs.co.uk/ Nothing else has helped with my TY rattle!!

Ausy, that's exactly who and what I was thinking. I've have had a few bits made by Ian and was lucky to meet and chat with him at Telford earlier this year, never heard anything negitive regarding his work. Maybe it's where I should have started in the first place. You live and learn I suppose, the lesson cost, but I'm more likely to learn from it!! Half the work's has been done, ie the liner is thick enough, just need someone finish it properly. There's no rush for it now, so I'll build up another engine from scratch, I have nearly a complete engine, just short of a crank. Cheers

Cleaned it all out and fitted my spare barrel and piston, now she purrs. Well, except for the clutch rattle, which sounds twice as loud now the engine's quiet! Need to fine someone to take this other barrel out to 200 now (and do a proper job) Thanks again everyone.

Hi all, Many thanks for all your input, sorry if I seemed a bit blunt with a post or two, I'm a little (read "a lot") P'd Off with the whole experience. Took me months to get this done and I really thought the engineer knew what he was doing. But he dragged his feet and I ended up in a row with the bloke, guess it may have been his pay back, now I can see he is a right "Jack T'Lad". I've my spare piston and barrel to try with a proper Yam piston, that did run ok. I'll get everything cleaned up first, hopefully there's no other damage to mains or big end. I can't see me dealing with this bloke again, he took me to and beyond my limit last time, if I deal with him again, it's only going to end badly for both of us. Even though it rankles, I can bear a bit of pain in the wallet, but I wouldn't want to miss out on my kids for 25 years! One thing did spring to mind if I can find someone that knows his a*** from his elblow to do it. The liner is so thick it'll stand boring out to what's generally known to be 200cc. (190 odd is it?) Anyone know who can do this and make a proper job of it?

It does look like the piston is taking lumps off the ports, particularly the inlet, thought the exhaust looks a close second. Those lumps it's knocked out have scored the piston. Now here comes the big question, what the frick do I do with it now??

No, I've had enough bikes over the last 34 years to know that it isn't right. I've had TY's before and none hammered like this. Some pics, not great, but you can make out the scores on the piston, the top edge is also knarled. http://i265.photobuc...gine/piston.jpg You can make out the mark by the inlet port http://i265.photobuc...07/engine/4.jpg http://i265.photobuc...07/engine/3.jpg That's after 10 mins at the most.

I'll see if I can upload a few pics later. It wasn't the normal fin rattle, but a metallic rasp/knock/rattle. Apparently the liner can oval once fitted in the barrel (that's what I was told when it didn't fit the case mouth), as there's more pressure in certain parts than others, like the ports, so it can spread. Looks like when it was machined out to fit the piston, it wasn't checked properly.

Well, I've ran it up until it got warm and pulled the top end down again, it's not had more than 10 minutes running since the piston and barrel went on. Looks like the liners ovaled! Front and back of the piston is marked up with tiny scores and the bore is marked up front and back. F**k it! My reputable man, may not be so reputable after all. Things are now making sense, it had to go back once already as the liner didn't quite fit the crankcase mouth, seemed to catch on the corners, I guess I know why now!!

My TY175 rattles, it rattled before and it rattles now! It rattled a bit when I got it, after a few outings it got worse, so it all came apart. It was on it's last bore, so: Barrel was relined (by reputable person) and machined to fit a new Wiseco Piston. Crank had a new Conrod with new big and little end bearings. New piston pin. New Main bearings and seals All fitted together with care and new gaskets, twice! All the parts came from a reputable company, so I presume they're good quailty, tried and tested. Still the fecker rattles!! What's going on?? Everything's been checked and checked again (at great cost), I'm out of ideas! It shouldn't rattle, there's nothing standing out, Piston and bore clearance, big and little end is all new and looks fine. Help!

What I feared, they aren't interchangeable. As written above, the taper for the flywheel is narrower on the DT crank. Next question is, what about the TY125 crank? Is that the same?

I know someone that will do this for you, cut off the "tiller" part, raise the clamps up and weld them in line with the top of the forks. Tried it out and it does make the steering feel more direct, it also frees up room behind the bars to work in (so to speak)

Someone could argue, that to finish first, first you have to finish and electronic ignition will improve ones chances, but that's what forums are all about, personal views. My view was that there seems to be some sort of "anti" feeling towards modern parts fitted that are obviously visible, but hide something away and it becomes ok or acceptable. Modern forks(or modern fork internals)or modern ignitions will to some extent give one some advantage over the standard parts, even if it's just an improved chance of finishing. Now the question would turn to "does it matter?" To compete in an event, there are regulations to comply to, some are more stringent than others, but the upshot is you compete against others within the rules, if you choose to mod your bike and it complies with the events you enter, than there's no problem. If you feel you are at a disadvantage because you haven't modded and others have, there's always the option of not entering and making your views clear. We all know that there are industrious people that will take things to there very limits, but you can't blame them as they are being allowed, it's the regulations and those that draw them up that need addressing. The heartening thing is, we all know someone that turns up with a completely standard (with 30 odd years of abuse) bike that wipes the floor with those that spend thousands on mods and modern parts, because as stated elsewhere, money can't buy talent!