goudrons

these links may help http://www.nktc.org.uk/ joining any club in the North Kent Combine will give you access to their excellent B&W series as well as plenty of club trials, combine and SE events, virtually something every weekend, hit the "contact us" and ask for advice, I am certain the person who answers you will give you the very best advice (no it's not me!) http://www.southeasttrialscombine.org.uk/ (list of SE clubs http://www.southeasttrialscombine.org.uk/se_trials_combine_clubs.html)

Can't the same be said of electronic ignition? Or does this "unfair advantage" stance only concern parts that can be seen? Surely, a modern electronic ignition is an aid to gain an advantage over the same model with standard, points ignition? Or why fit it? The very same arguments on cost etc can be made, it's not as though anyone can say points and condenser are anywhere near the same price as an electronic set up, or that it's the only alternative to parts that are unavailable.

yes, will one fit the other. I see the conrod is listed as the same, and looking at the dt ones (of pictures) they look the same. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-DT-DT175-Enduro-175-Used-Crank-Crankshaft-Assembly-1981-/400254277858?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d310398e2 I guess my next question is if they are the same does anyone have one for sale or a ty175 one even?

Anyone know if the crank shaft (and con rod) from a DT175 is the same as the TY175?

Before someone corrects me, the above statement should have read "....around the local airport filling our non compression ignition engined cars up" I would want anybody to try running their Rudolf on AV gas or even petrol.

"Over" $8 a gallon is what I wrote as I was avoiding writing what's below!! Over, as in more, above, higher. Unleaded is £1.39 locally. £1.39 X 3.8 (3.8 litres in US Gallon) equals £5.28. Based on £1 equaling $1.55 and a bit (http://www.dollars2pounds.com/) £5.28 is 8.21 US Dollars. $8.21 is, if I'm still on earth and not some twin planet where everything is backward over $8 At £1.35 it's slightly less than $8 a US gallon, but we're not here to split hairs. The point was, $6 a gallon (even a US gallon) for AV "gas" wouldn't be considered expensive this side of the Atlantic, in fact we'd all be around the local airport filling our cars up!

Bargain! Normal fuel from our gas stations is over $8 a gallon here in the UK.

I've replaced my stock carb with one from BJ racing. (cost a packet after customs charges) What it is, is a standard VM22-133 but jetted with the stock size jets. They've turned the flange down and added a collar so it's a stub that fits the inlet. Runs very well on it, I was surprised at the different it made, a lot crisper and picks up off the bottom end very well. Just going to start trialing a reed cage spacer, boyesen reeds and bigger airbox with it, see what happens.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-TY250-TY-250-ENGINE-PISTON-0-50MM-O-S-ALLOY-1LW-11636-00-GENUINE-/270818213383?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f0e05fe07 This any good? Or you could try Eastwoods http://www.wiseco.co.uk/wiseco.html

Here's a list of all the clubs that DVLA accept dating information from http://www.direct.gov.uk/prod_consum_dg/groups/dg_digitalassets/@dg/@en/@motor/documents/digitalasset/dg_187821.pdf It's not just Yamaha themselves that can date.

I've just added 22mm to my swinging arm, managed to cut up, just forward of the chain adjuster stops and across under the shock mounts, then added the plate in. This has left the rear shocks in there standard position, but with the axle that much further back, it's made the action so much better. Climbs a treat now, no more running out of grip trying to keep the front down. Didn't even need to lengthen the brake torque arm. For a carb upgrade, I've forked on one of these (add around

To an extent, yes a 30 pilot will richen the fuel/air mix as it's a bigger one than the 25 that came as standard. By the sounds of what you write, your engine is heating up and getting lean, struggling to idle. There are a number of factors that will cause this, An air leak, air being drawn in somewhere, like a split manifold, leaking reed cage gasket, the choke lever shaft or even a leak in a crank seal (although this will also allow mixture to escape depending on what stroke the piston is on). This adds extra air to the mix, leaning it up Float level set too high, this will starve the engine of fuel and lean the mixture off. Same goes for a blocked fuel tap or tank vent in the fuel cap. A lean fuel/oil mix will cause the engine to get hot and give you the same effects as a lean fuel/air mixture. Incorrect ignition, this can set the spark off at the wrong time causing the same effects as a lean mixture. The air cooled engine can get hot, particularly in trials, where it may not get the same passing air across the fins as it would on the open road. An exhaust change can effect the mixture, blocked or a new one that handles the gases better? So before you go off and try and "buy" your way out of your problem, you need to be certain everything else is right or you'll be forever chasing your tail! Fuel/oil mixture Ignition correct No air leaks in the system, no block in the tank/tap. Float high correct It is the right carb. Are the carb parts correct- right slide, right needle, needle is right high, right jets (to start with) The carb and filter are clean If these are right, then you're looking at a naturally occurring issue with the engine, like it's getting hot 'cos it's not getting enough passing air, or the exhaust is now letting more gases out quicker, this is the time to think about a bigger jet.

Try John Cane at http://www.tytrials.co.uk/ for spares. Sounds like it's running lean if it's idling poorly when hot. Does it pop and bang and fail to return to a smooth idle as well? http://www.trialsport.com.au/TY175/ Make sure your oil/petrol ratio is correct, a under mix will allow the engine to over heat. Float high should be 21mm. The choke lever, where it pulls out the body, are known to draw air, particularly if the lever is bent after a drop. Are the crankseals good, could they be leaking? Remember the mixture screw is actually a air screw, screwing it in riches, out leans. I always found the stock pilot of 25 a bit lean for trials work, may be worth trying a 30 if all else fails.

Have you just blanked the end of the cam up and left the oil ways cut further down the shaft free? I was under the impression that these oil ways in the shaft needed to be free and just blank up the hole in the end. If you've used a long bolt down the end it may have blocked them off. As for the oil in the side case, is the pump sealing against the case, I know the ball bearings that are under the pump can wear away the alloy in the side case and cause the pump to leak. Serco used to sell a kit with nylon balls, though I bet it was someone else's kit!

They may have changed since I got one, but they came with a 15 pilot and 95 main. I found both a bit lean, good starting point is 25 pilot and 100 main and work from there, you don't want the thing pinking way, running red hot! There was somebody selling new genuine Mikuni (VM22-133) for the Cub on Ebay, but they were the price of a Dellorto, even though you can buy the carb for around

Does seem to point to carb, what with it being the same before as after the rebuild and the none stock carb being fitted. First check the timing though. Contact me if you'd like to try a stock carb, I have one and I'm in London.

I'm not sure which OKO will work, but the cheapest option is a Mikuni copy from Ebay, like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Thumpstar-Pit-Bike-Mikuni-VM22-Carb-Carburettor-/250838195250?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3a671f1c32 Search "pit bike carb" and you should get a VM22 for about

I found a couple of numbers I had for him. 014847 15288, this was the house phone the old dear answered. 014847 21189 god knows, but he used to answer this one himself.

We can only hope he has! I went there early last year for an oil pump and he was trying to flog me anything "for a good price" In the summer I ordered a Dellorto carb off him over the phone, it never turned up, after numerous calls, the old dear who answers the phone gave me various mobile numbers for him. I tracked him down and asked him to prove it was sent, at which time he hung up. I claimed for the money back through Visa and reordered the carb from Eurocarbs in Reading asking for one the same spec as they supply Serco and relayed my story, to which came the reply "I'm not suprised, we won't supply him anymore and we haven't for a while". I've heard similar stories of failed delivery, used parts used in rebuilds etc, and I hear the house is up for sale now. I can only hope he's face down in a ditch and Martin Adams, like Dorothy, returns from OZ!