goudrons

The map button and two LEDs are just held in place with silicone, they just pop out of the original mount. I made a bracket out of an right angled piece of plastic (made from the edge of an old plastic box), drilled out holes along the top for the button and LEDs. I think the button is around 11 or 12mm and the LED's 4mm. I hot glued them in to the new bracket from underneath and used a couple of small, counter sunk bolts and nuts to bolt it to the back of a normal number board, close to the top edge. Used a black number board, black plastic and black counter sunk bolts, so it all looks rather neat. (well it would have if I managed to get the bolt head level!) The map button's body isn't totally round, there are a couple of lugs either side to stop it rotating in the hole, just needed to carefully file out two slots in the hole to make it fit flush.

I too think Lineaway might be on to it. The ring grooves on the piston have a peg in each groove, this fits the gaps in the rings. These pegs are usually offset by about a 3rd but miss the transfer ports in the liner. Often after a rebore/recoat, with a new piston and rings it can be a bit tight and fiddly to fit the barrel over the piston with the piston fitted to the conrod as it flops around, so it might be worth trying to fit the piston to the barrel first, like this: Fit the rings to the piston (correctly with the pegs and the ring gaps lining up). Fit one circlip to one end of the wrist pin hole and paint the piston with 2 stroke oil. With the barrel loose on the bench, turn it upside down and align the piston square to the liner and start to feed it in. (the right away around, usually the piston crown is marked, this mark goes to the front/exhaust) The liners bottom edge should be chamfered so helps to squeeze the rings as it goes in, use your finger nails to help squeeze as you push. Don't twist, just push. Once the rings are in, the bottom of the piston should still be hanging out with enough clearance for the wrist pin hole. Fit the base gasket and stuff clean rags or paper in the crankcase mouth to hold the conrod vertical. Fit the small end bearing to the con rod and lower the piston/barrel over it and fit the wirst pin (from the side without the circlip in). Carefully fit the second circlip and remove the paper/rags Now carefully push the barrel down. Loosely tighten the barrel down and slowly turn the engine over with the flywheel to see if it all spins correctly before tightening it all up. It's worth lightly greasing the base gasket or both if you are using two. This often saves them sticking and ripping apart if you need to strip is down again later.

Is the spindle spaced out properly? If the spindle/fork bottoms are pinched or bushed out too far they'll tighten up and not give the right action.

You are best measuring the piston and giving John Cane at TY Trials a ring. I think there are a few 72mm ish pistons about in Blaster and DT230 conversions that will fit certain 200 conversions, but if the liner has worn, there isn't usually enough of it to rebore, so you might have to reline it (again, John may help). I've ran a couple of carbs with good results, an OKO and a new Mikuni (see B&J Racings webpage), but the Mikuni needed converting from flange to a stub. I've tried a few different airbox arrangements too with various results, but it's difficult to get a straight carb to airbox connection due to the frame and you'll need to re jet the carb. The simplist thing to do is open up the top of the standard box. Remove the metal flap in the lower airbox mouth and cut triangles out of the both sides of the top. I don't want to put you off but it's worth mentioning, you can and probably will throw a lot of money at these and the returns aren't always great. They are revy little engines, but they don't develop the torque you often need on a muddy winters day!

With it running with choke and not without you'd best start with pilot jet. If this is blocked it won't idle unless the choke is pulled on. Unscrew the smaller brass jet and hold it up to the light, if you can't see a small round hole in the light, it's blocked. Next check the oil feed union on the carb (small pipe stub right side of carb, forward of slide) Originally they came fitted with an autolube system to supply two stroke oil to the engine without the need to premix, nearly all these days have had the pump removed and drive to the pump blocked up inside the front part of the right hand crank case cover. This stub on the carb should, if the autolube system has been removed, be blanked/blocked up or it'll draw in air. There should be two other, similar pipe connectors on the carb, one to balance the air in the float bowl and one to balance the air in the carb body, it's often normal to use the same tube looped around to each connector, but doing this it needs a hole or split in it somewhere to allow air to enter/exit. If you're still having issues, hard to start, wet plug, bad running without choke and are sure the spark is timed correctly, I'd say you have an air leak somewhere. This could be either the crankseals, perished inlet manifold or it's gaskets or head/base gaskets.

I think Beta had an issue with some selector mechanisms around this year. Some had trouble with a rivet not pressed in properly into the selector arm, which worked loose and popped out. You might find more info by searching Beta selector fault or rivet. To get at the selector arm the clutch and clutch basket need to come out, then it should just pull free.

Rotate the bars too far forward and you end up riding with a twist in your wrists. The bar ends where the grips fit are raked up and back slightly, so if you push them forward too much you tend to get your lower arms, wrists and hands all cocked up and out of line. It can feel quite uncomfortable and after prolonged use like this, cause wrist and finger/grip problems. Before you decide what needs doing, set the bars so they feel comfortable and you aren't twisting your wrists, it may take a while and a few adjustements needed, but keep trying the different angles on downhills when your weight transfers forward, if you are bracing yourself against the bars with too much bend in your wrists, try adjusting it out until you get near as you can to straight arm, wrist and hand. Once set you'll probably find the what Feetup mentions, there's little room behind them to move the steering about without it digging in you. As they were originally designed for youths and in a day where tillered yokes where common, most adults find the bar clamps (and bars) need moving forwards about an inch and lifting up around 1/2 an inch.

I wouldn't ignore Woody's advise and check the wiring from the stator out first, I'm sure he's forgotten more than I know, but difficult to start and when it does run it won't rev cleanly, backfires and bogs down, all sound like air leak to me. With it being stood for so long and the blue smoke, perhaps consider the crank seals are perished.

Feetup describes what you need to try first, drop the yokes down the fork tubes until 20mm stick out the top. You can mod the original top yoke to accept a decent set of bar clamps flush with the top. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/40766-ty175-whitehawk/ I did a similar thing myself, just filled the hollows of the orginal risers from underneath with some Durafix alloy welding rods. Cut the risers off on a bandsaw and drilled new holes for the clamps, single bolt ones work best.

Looks like a cheap bike as long as you don't have to spend out on too many problems. Most Beta clutches stick, even if only left for a few weeks. Strip out the plates and clean them. Also check the clutch basket for wear, the tabs on the outer edges of the fibre plates can dig into the baskets "fingers" and damage the alloy. Most will show signs of wear, as it's a cheap bike, best just files them flat rather than replacing the basket, they'll wear again and so will a new basket! Refit and fill the gearbox with clean oil. (a light gear oil design for motorcycle wet clutches). Also every time before starting, it's worth selecting second or third gear and rocking it with the clutch lever in to free it off. Rev3's have a simple rear suspension set up, they have no linkage, just the stock/damper connected directly to the swinging arm. Before buying, carefully check the shock/damper unit isn't leaking and doesn't "slurp" when bounced. As they get older they can suffer from the bladder inside bursting, this causes a soggy action and you can often hear it slurp or see a leak. They are hard to get rebuilt and expensive to replace, though Olle do a reasonable replacement. For parts, search the Beta motors webpage for your countries importer. Bosi OffRoad keep most parts and Ebay is always worth a search. Most Rev3 parts are interchangeable, but the 2000 and 2001 models were slightly different. The major changes are the 2000 has upside down forks and the airbox on the left side. 2001 has normal forks and the airbox on the left, these have different air filters and rear mudguards than later models. From 2002 onwards the airbox is under a flap in the seat. Run it on higher octane fuel, they really need 98 otherwise they can knock badly with pre detonation. Other Beta problems are few and far between, the stators can sometimes pack up and require a rewind or replacement. The casing under the waterpump can rot away causing coolant and gearbox oil to mix together. The Mikuni carb needs the float height setting correctly, as they are fitted at such an angle, they are prone to flooding out the float bowl if the bikes at an angle if set too high or they can lean the mix right out on climbs if set to low.

I've only really noticed that in higher gears when shutting off at speed. I've not noticed it in lower gears at the sort of speeds I use in sections. I could have used a bit more engine braking yesterday, had quite a few hairy descents to tackle, though once my eyes were closed they didn't seem that bad!

It's the same as a chainsaw! It needs a 19mm deep socket.

You can get a spare rechargeable battery and charger from Maplins. As Telecat says, it's a PP3, 200mah. I'm pretty sure owners will need to keep them charged up on a mains charger. They take around 8 hours to charge properly on the mains charger, I don't think a few hours of start/stop riding on a Sunday morning will be enough. They will start on a non rechargeable PP3 battery, just swap it over once running. They ride well, at first I thought it was a bit to heavy over the front, but it's just a feeling, once on it and moving they ride well. On it, it can sound a bit gruff, but the in gear performance is really good even though the first four are really close together. So far only a couple of niggles. They seem to need a hotter plug (BPMR4A-10) as they can foul up a bit, seems to be worse in Maps 2 & 3. Fuel tank cap on mine dribbles a bit, it's just not a tight enough fit. And even through I went through all the nuts and bolts for tightness before first use, I've lost a screw out of the guard at the bottom of the silencer.

I bought my 250cc MAR and someone had already fitted a VM26 Mikuni(from a well known supplier of twinshock parts) it never ran that cleanly low down. My bike had the Romat reed conversion fitted, don't know if that made any difference. I did get it very near to usable with similar jets you have fitted, around 30 pilot and 140/150 main. But it was still quite fluffy when it started to pick up off the main jet. I ended up with a 24mm VHST Dellorto in the end as I'd set a few up in the past, Mikunis aren't great as anyone that ever owned a Rev3 will tell you. I've ridden one with a OKO that was miles better than one with a Mikuni. I think Mid Atlantic Trials do a Mar kit.

http://www.greenlaneskent.ukbikers.net/

It's not too badly thought out for things like maintenance. The air box cover comes off with one 4mm allen bolt and the filter lifts up and out on a cage, it couldn't be easier. Though you need to make sure when pushing it back in the o ring doesn't get snagged and you have the cage rotated the right way. As the airbox intake is so far away from the muck and dirt (just below/behind the headstock) I'm told they don't require the same sort of attention as other makes. It's got to be better than my Evo, that seemed particularly prone to a mud splattered air filter The coolant tops up via a brass nut through the side of the frame, it looks easy to get at even if the brass nut looks a bit soft. Couple of things I noticed. Some of the black coating to the crankcase, directly under the right side of the barrel is a bit flaky and I've lost a small flake. I haven't found a bleed nipple on the clutch slave yet, the hose is just connected to the clutch casing via a plain banjo. But I have found the reason for the fuel smell, seems the tank cap isn't sealing too well. It's not pouring out, just a bit of dampness around the seal when the fuel sloshes around. I might try packing a thin washer under the rubber seal inside the cap to see if I can get a tighter fit when it locks on. Horrid grips now replaced with some Dominos and the gear lever raised one spline (didn't need bending), I can now find neutral a lot easier! I've replaced the front light holder and replaced it with a number board. The map switch and LEDs that were connected to the light holder are just siliconed in, so pulled them out and hot glued them into a small plastic bracket and screwed it to the back of the number board, works and looks well.

Cheers, yes I think the box will loosen up a bit, but I think I need to move the lever up a spline, I just can't hook my foot under it properly. I've tended to set all my bikes up like this. I gather this will require a bit more of a bend on it to clear the casing. No, after messing around in the garden a few times, the battery was flat. I've stuffed a few normal 9v Duracell's (other brands are available) in my tool box. Just start up on the normal battery, then once running, swap back to the rechargeable. I am still a bit concerned about the whiff of fuel when running, I'll either get used to it or get a head buzz and not care!

Finally had it out yesterday! Apart from a couple of minor niggles, I'm well happy. My initial worries after manhandling the bike about for loading etc was that the front end appeared to feel a little heavy (and my back still sore) On it and riding and it handles really well, weight and balance feel right. Turns feel stable on the tight and twisties. Nothing overly remarkable, as you'd expect really. I guess it's all good and working well as there wasn't any signs of any handling flaws. Where things are really noticable is the engine/gearbox. I spent all day in the standard map (one blink) and at first it felt like it was a bit gruff and noisy. The first four gears appear very close together and caused me to rethink my normal gear selection once or twice. 1st feels quite low to begin with, but is still very usable, it's hard to explain, but when pushing hard in first on my Beta it was easy to max it out quickly, that the engine/wheel speed hit it's limit and was now holding it back. Sure on the Vertigo it started to sound like it was getting near to max, but it was still offering more, even with a full handful of throttle it still didn't feel like it's hit it's wheel speed limit. As for the next three gears, it easy to feel the EFI doing the job. There's very need to slip the clutch to get the engine speed up to match the higher gears, it'll pick up almost instantly without the fueling pause. So much so, I started to ride it a few section without clutch, just throttle timing, ok 4th it took a brief moment to sort it's self out, but in 2nd and 3rd I could almost stop/stall and still get an instant throttle hit. I found it had a little bit more engine braking than my Beta, but nothing as bad as all the 4 strokes I've tried. 5th and 6th it's surprisingly quick, maybe not 4RT quick, but quick enough to notice and the motor really howls! Niggles: The bar grips are rough, thin and hard on my hands. They appear at first glance to be Renthals, but are fairly nasty copies, REA or some such company. They're now in the bin and some Dominos on the way. Slight whiff of fuel every now and then from the engine area. Not sure, but I think it's the tank venting. Clutch a bit chattery, no worse than some other bikes and the lever is a little stiffer than I would like, but my hand ache might be my fault and/or grips. As the Gearbox is quite stiff yet, I got fed up fishing for neutral while queuing and ended up hanging on to the lever in gear. Might need a bit of fiddling of the fork settings, but I'll give it a few more rides before I start, they might break in a bit first.

I think it's a singled lipped 17mm ID x 25mm OD x 4mm thick. You probably could dig it put without remove the cover, but it won't be easy and you could damage the new seal refitting it. Easy job with the case off.

I wish I could report what mine is like! After years of Beta's I decided on a change, so rang up Vertigo UK and put a deposit on a Combat Camo. As my family live close to Skipton, a visit was planned and I picked it up from Dougie and Nick. I got it back home and planned a gentle ride to run it in the following Sunday. The preceeding Saturday I gave it a polish and made sure every nut and bolt was nipped up (they were), sorted my kit out and slipped a feckin' disc in my back! I wasn't even near the bike, I was reaching for a Greggs cream and apple danish! The last couple of weeks it's just sat there :-( I can't even lift my leg to fire it up so I can hear it run and every time I pass a Greggs I have a little cry. Two of lifes little pleasures are ruined, for the time being!

I wonder how long it's going to take before anyone produces any sort of Hybrid bike for any market? There might be some positive points for a Hybrid trials bike. You'd get instant torque from the electric motor. Smaller IC engine would run more efficently and carrying less fuel would offset some battery weight issues. Smaller batteries than full electric would reduce weight and they'd have no batttery range issues. Supposedly cleaner emissions. And as with Hybrid cars, they could be configured to run only on electric under certain conditions, so you might charge the battery with the IC engine between sections or vice versa.

I believe the spacer with the bearing and the new flat sprocket bolt to the wheel hub with the four, longer nuts and bolts. The other spacer replaces the right hand spacer on the wheel spindle/axle, the original one will be too long with the new spacer/bearing bolted to the wheel hub, so a short spindle spacer is needed to get the rear wheel to fit the swinging arm. While it's all apart, check the spindle/axle is straight, they are quite narrow for a trials bike and it's not unusual for them to bend or kink. Mine was quite kinked, so I measured it up and found a "pit bike" one on Ebay the correct dimensions.

I remember my Section, that was a '95 and I was still competing on it in 2005! I loved the engine, powerful but never too hairy and it just loved to grip. The frame on the other hand was awful. The subframe under the seat particularly, it crumbled before I got it home, it must have been made of dust. No matter what anyone says, they were still a 100% better than the K-roo! (I know, I had one of them too)