goudrons

You can get Bongo's and Freda's in either Petrol or Diesel, both are thirsty and are usually over priced! The overheating issue has been pointed out, but another thing to look out for is rust and rot. They weren't rust proofed for the UK from the factory and rot can quicky take hold. Rear arches are the first to go, but it can grab hold in most places. Rubber hoses and seals rot away as they have usually been stood about outside at Japanese auction houses for months which are all next to sea ports. I've seen many Diesels that have been twin tanked and with a heat exchanger fitted, ran on veg oil (new or well filtered waste). An alternative is the Mitsubishi Delica, (L400) but I wouldn't buy a pre 1994 model (L300), those tended to fall over or crash on the slightest of bends! They are based on the Pajero/Shogun, so pretty hardy but again, thristy. and now starting to rust. I've seen a few Renault Espace's with bikes in them, never noticed if the bars were dropped or not. I've also had a bike in the back of a Land Rover Discovery (TDi 200/300). Mine was the commercial version with no back seats, but one bike went in, just, but it's a long way up for loading and unloading! I didn't quite manage to fit a bike in a 5 door Mk1 Rav4 though, even with the rear seats out, they aren't quite long enough and the ride quality is medieval! Recently I've been thinking of using one of those wheelchair converted things like the Caddy Life and Doblo/Combo. Most have a couple of slim rear seats that are perfect for nippers, bike down the middle, loading ramp and some Doblos/Combos come with a high roof, so you aren't snacking your head.

I'm another one using Nano Trans. I've been struggling to get a good clutch action on my 2014 300. It seems to suffer lots of drag, no matter what oil is in there. Cleaning the plates helps, see post at top of the Beta section, as does the Nano Trans. But I'm going to try some of these different setting by replacing the thicker inner and outer fibre clutch plates. http://www.betausa.com/sites/default/files/pdf/STT-2012-3-Evo%20300%20clutch%20set%20up.pdf

The right gear shift option was quite common at the time, Bultacos and Ossas also came with it and I guess a list of others will start appearing here soon! You have to remember that before the likes of these purpose built trials machines started coming out of Spain and later, Japan, riders rode converted British bikes that came with gear shifters on the right and rear brakes on the left. I guess to appeal to those riders manufacturers included the option to swap things around.

I seem to recall some of those KT's in that book were 450cc's. https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.webermichl.at/_bikes/kawasaki/kawasakikt450.htm&prev=search http://www.twnclub.ch/classic_trial_files/Kawasaki/Kawasaki.htm

Bogging down, difficult to start, sounds like it's lean. What does the plug look like? I presume the autolube system has been removed? If so, check the feed on the carb (small connection on the right side, just before the manifold joint), it should be blocked up or blanked off, if not it'll drawn in air. Also check the float heights are set right, the float bowl inlet valve isn't sticking and the petcock isn't gummed up or blocked. (there's a fine mesh filter on the internal end of the tap in the tank) Check the head gasket isn't leaking. After all that, you are probably looking at crankseals

That probably explains why I thought all the '14 onwards are different. I tested my '14 (and a few others) against a '13 Factory! All the '14's had a few mm of play at the end of the swinging arm. The '13 Factory didn't. The knuckle on the '14's (and I guess all the others with the same setup) tends to be set at it's tilting point, like it's at BDC. As I lift and drop the swinging arm I can see the bottom of the shock swing back and forth ever so slightly, which is where the play felt at the end of the swinging arm comes from. There's no play in any of the joints.

Take note of which bush came out of which end of the dogbones. They aren't all the same! One end of the dogbone's bushes have a lager ID than the other as the bolts that run through have different widths. You'll need to push/pull out the bearings, a couple of sockets and a vice work well. As said, if the bushes look worn they need replacing (again due to different widths and different internal diameters, there are four different parts and part numbers for each bone). You can make out the bearing sizes and seal sizes from the Beta parts catalogue or just buy a rebuild kit. Pack them with marine grease, it holds out water a little better. To be honest, there isn't a massive difference in price between the rebuild kit and the complete dongbones from Beta, one is expensive, the other a little more! I've noticed on a few later Evo's from 2014 onwards, there is a little up and down play in the swinging arm. After hours of trying to track it down it appears it comes from the knuckle on the bottom of the shock, it causes the shock to swing a little back and forth, yet there's no real movement/play in any joints, it just seems the shock/knuckle is set right at it's tilting point.

There are a couple of Sherco engine teardown guides knocking around the web, so a Google might pay off Like this http://www.lewisportusa.com/manuals/sherc_11-21-09/sherco_engine_teardown_and_assembly_manual.pdf You'll need a puller for the flywheel (think it's 30mm with a 1.5mm thread) and perhaps something to hold it while you undo the nut. There are various ways to jam it, but it's not something I like doing. As you'll need to hold the clutch centre as well it's worth investing in something like this. http://shop.1stmx.co.uk/clutch-holding-tool-260-p.asp It'll hold the clutch centre and flywheel with easy while you undo and tighten the nuts. Be careful of buying bearings off the shelf for engines, sure you can measure them and get cheap ones, but make sure they are C3 rated or you'll be doing this again sooner than you'd like! As it's a pain getting to them, best fitting quality ones. To get them out of the cases (and new ones in) carefully heat the cases around the bearing, this will cause the alloy to expand for them to push out. You don't need to get the cases glowing red hot, just a couple of seconds with a propane or butane torch around and around, I've done them in the past in the oven and even with just a kettle full of boiling water. Heat the cases again to fit the new ones (that have been in the freezer an hour) and they'll just drop in.

You can always rein in a 300 fairly easily, yet still have the amazing torque they produce. A slower action throttle and perhaps gear it down a tooth on the gearbox sprocket will help tie it to the floor and overcome the urgency some 300's tend to offer. In the UK Betas are fitted with heavier flywheels (pre 2015 this was just a weight bolted to the face) which tend to calm down their mid throttle punch, but the same effects can be reproduced with the above cheaply enough. Then once you're ready for the full fat 300, it's just a matter of swapping a few bits back!

That depends on what wheel your are fitting it to. If it's a Morad rim with a flanged, ie, spokes through a flange rather then through the rim it's self. Then only fit a Michelin as IRC's and Dunlops don't seem to grip the rims and pop off/deflate with the slightest impact.

Fantic 200's handle and ride spot on without needing much work. The Montesa 200 isn't far behind though and if a decent one pops up at the right price, it's worth considering. After throwing a considerable amount of time and money at a TY175, I'd say it's as good as anything on a dry day, but they don't like to grip in anything wet. They also need a bit of work on the handbar/top yoke and foot rests to get a balanced riding position. The early TY250, the "A" model rides totally different to the later ones, which tend to be a bit flat. Though for a cheap 250, an Ossa Mar ain't a bad choice as they get over looked a bit, they do ride nice and plush and are fairly bomb proof, as a bonus most had electronic ignition from the factory.

According to plenty of people on here, the Fiat Doblos (all models) manage to swallow two bikes fairly easily. They are plenty around and a good choice of engines. Depending of which year you go for, there's 1.3 diesel with turbo, 1.9 with and without turbo, Vauxhall and a few others made good use of both these engines, so they aren't strange to most garages. You'll also find 1.2 or 1.4 petrols, but they will mostly be "car" versions, though quite slow, the Fiat FIRE's are quite hardy motors. You can whip the rear seats out very easily to make it a van, the car version will no doubt be slightly cheaper to insure as most companies load private van premiums as they think you are a car booter!

I seen two in a earlier Combo B van (1993-2001 model). But I could never get two in my own Combo C (2001-2011), one just fitted, diagonally. The latest Combo D (2011-) are based on the Fiat Doblo and I believe two will fit in them no problem. I've seem two in the older Doblos too (2000 on)

I should also have added that Beta's don't tend to like normal 95 octane unleaded as it makes them ping and knock a little. They like 98 or 99 octane Super unleaded.

They don't usually run well on the "choke" after starting, like I said, it's an enrichment circuit rather than a choke, it's just an aid to drawning fuel into the cylinder to fire it up. I fire mine up on choke from cold and within a few seconds flick the choke off and then warm it up, until it's properly warmed up, mine won't idle that well either. But once warm, it idles and runs right. A ringy dingy, (when warmed up) engine on the over run that has an uneven, hunting up and down idle, sounds like it's lean. Applying a little choke makes it better as you are richening it up A dull, flat sounding engine tend to be running rich. Applying a little choke makes it worse as it's now too rich. If it's lean, it may not be solely due to carb, problems with ignition can give the same results, as can air leaks (head, base or reed cage gaskets or crank seals). Just on the off chance, check the coil. There's a push fit, spade connector to the bottom of the coil, the connection gets grubby and the spade connector rattles loose, this can give make the bike run all wonky. Give the connector a clean and a small squeeze to tighten it up.

It's possible, as it could be getting too much fuel. The choke isn't a choke (a flap to restrict air). It's an enrichment circuit, basically a big jet of around 0.6 or 0.7mm that allows fuel to bypass the pilot and main jets to aid starting. It won't cut off the main and pilot jets, but aids them by increasing the fuel to air (which is set or more correctly not restrictable any further) So if you have fuel overflowing out of the float bowl (because the floats are high) it'll find it's way into the engine (not just out of one of the carbs breather tubes), plus with the "choke" on, it's possible it could flood up, but whipping the plug out after it's stalled and checking how wet it is would confirm this or not, also you'd need to consider the fact if it was flooding bad, would it start in the first place? If the floats are low, as already described, they tend to run lean (and hot). How much it does either of the above depends on how lean or rich it actually is, but usually if it's very lean, it won't settle to an even idle and when rev'd they tend to "ring a ding ding" more on the over run. Too rich and it bogs down and splutters or stalls, if it starts and runs at all. You could also get the same sort of results from an ignition issue, if it can't ignite the fuel at the correct time! What is your actual problem?

Yamaha made 125cc (56mm piston x 50mm stroke) and 175cc (66mm piston) with similar frames to yours, but didn't make 200cc's. There were various people back in the day that converted the 175 to near 200cc. The convertions involved relining the barrel of the 175 and sourcing a bigger piston of around 70mm which got you around 195cc or so. The only way to really tell is remove the head and measure the bore/piston. 125 versions couldn't be converted so far out without the barrel falling apart. There was also a version made by a french rider/engineer that reportedly made it out to 205cc, but that had a different head and you ain't got one of them, sorry. My bet is yours is a standard 175cc engine and the frame looks standard too, and someone has modified to a "TY200" with a crayon on the exhaust gaurd, so as imexian writes, take the offer, it's probably worth a couple of hundred in parts, if they are all usable (which doesn't look likely). Even if it is converted to 200 and is siezed or worn, it's useless as a 200 as the liner is so thin, rebores were virtually impossible. With the first three digits of the frame/engine number, this should help identify yours, but most barrels are stamped with cc near the bottom (123cc or 171cc) http://www.yamahaty.com/english/internat.html

A bit Heath Robinson, but it'll do the job. http://ossa.2y.net/ossa/mektips/CushDrivePuller/

If it's the same crappy piece of plastic as they use in the 2T, it's highly likely it's still in the coolant system somewhere. I've never seen a 2T one that didn't look like a starving dogs chew toy, even after only a few hours use. If it is or isn't in there, it's worth following Dan's advice and cleaning out the system, just to be sure.

You can't really leave the original mounting bracket as it's a solid lug attached to the frame and will just dig in your foot. Oil Baron's setup with the modded kickstart lever is very clever as lowering and moving back the pegs will usually cause the kickstart to hit that sides peg. I did something similar to mine and it seems the way to do it, but it can make kicking it over a bit of a faff with the lever so far away from the rest of the bike, particularly if you've short fat hairy legs like me! Another, simpler way is to leave the kickstarter alone and just to remove the pegs spring on that side, tighten it's bolt so the peg has a little resistence when folding it up and down. Then just flick the peg up out of the way when starting and flick it down again after, you should be ok as they are still folding foot rests.

Lots of soap and a little water will allow it to snap into place evenly and I've never needed anything else to fit one, but it won't cause it to seal if there is a problem with the wheel rim or spokes. Silicone is known to cause aluminium corrosion and many will advise against using it. I have also encountered a couple of those bonded valve rim tapes that were iffy. On one or two I've found where the two ends are joined together when it's been made has been a bit thicker than the rest of the band and stopped the band fitting in the groove properly. If this is the case it will arch over rather than fit in the groove in a U shape.

That's been on there for a while and it doesn't look like it's priced to sell either. Myself, I wouldn't mind getting my hands on his RC30. One of those will certainly give me the fizz!

If you are fearing obstacles you might need to revise what you are taking on for the time being. Most rider learning curve will be a bit "testy" (and quite a bit of "faily"). They learn the techniques then put them into practice, building up confidence in those techniques while pushing themselves on a little at a time to bigger and better. No one goes straight to biggest and best right from the start. The last bit, pushing themselves on is probably where you're finding it hard. You've more than likely learned enough to know how, but yet to have enough confidence. You're trying stuff you're less than sure you can get away with, failing and no quite knowing why and it's becoming a bit of a worry. This isn't a happy place to be when trying these sorts of things and usually ends badly or you get fed up repeatedly hurling yourself at stuff and bouncing off in a heap. It happened to me, so you aren't the only one. Go back to the techniques and practise hard so you ace them. Repeat them every time on everything so they become second nature, even on the smallest hop up where you normally wouldn't need to or bother with much effort, put it in. Make sure you can nail them without even thinking. Once you're on your way with this, you can start to test your skills, but build up to it a bit at a time. A little nervousness is usual and falling off even more so, but it shouldn't frighten. You'll be surprised once you're confidence in the techniques, but you have to put the work in. For me it meant forgetting about competing for a short time and working from the bottom up again so I was happy I hadn't missed a trick somewhere. If you're confident you can, you most likely will.

I dropped to a 10T, again for all the twists and turns. It does make 2nd a bit more usable too, but it all depends on what and how you ride really. Slowing it all down has helped with all the clutch fiddling as I can ride it on just the throttle and brakes most of the time. The collared nut is showing on InMotions site at the moment should you need one.

You've both the original piston and new pattern piston. So after it's been bored, fit them both up with the reed cage out and judge the difference in gaps yourself.