goudrons

I believe Marlimar isn't his living and he has full time job elsewhere, so it can take him a while to respond, but he's a great bloke with an Aladdins cave of parts, those of us with old Ossas need him. I think it's been explained about trimming the piston skirt. Gauge first if it restricts the flow. ie, is the gap smaller than the carbs bore with the piston at TDC. Then file it down if needed, clean up the edge and wash it off well. I seem to remember the OE pistons came with a smaller length skirt on the intake side and the pattern 73mm I fitted didn't, it just needed a small adjustment with the hammer! Let us know how you get on.

I seem to remember the port on top of the inlet manifold was prone to dropping off causing a massive air leak and the assocated screaming engine. Methinks it was the engine oil transfer port from the autolube system that usually get removed (and the port blanked or bunged up). Check it isn't sucking in air from there.

They do tend to wear from the bottom up, methinks the throw of the crank tends to wear the bore front and back at the bottom. Get the bore measured before buying a piston. It could be .25mm won't be enough and you'll have wasted your money. It's rare but it happened to me once and once is enough! I believe Steve keeps a few OE pistons, though I am using a 73mm from In Motion as my reed converted barrel was on it's last knockings. Though it does appear good quality I had to remove some crankcase mouth as mentioned above and a little from the piston skirt on the intake side so it cleared the intake port properly.

This isn't a scientific way of measuring, but if it's worn you'll feel the clearance and if I'm right you'll be able to reproduce the slap/knock. Remove the barrel and piston. Turn it upside down and fit the loose piston with rings to the barrel so the pistons skirt is flush with the bottom of the liner. Put your thumbs inside the piston skirt and try rocking the piston back and forth in the bore (exhaust port to intake port) Due to the need for a certain clearance, you should feel some movement and perhaps the slightest "tic" as it moves back and forth. What is shouldn't do it slap noisily back and forth with a knock. Next fit a ring to the bore on it's own, square it up by pushing the piston in behind it and measure the ring gap. Do this top, middle and bottom of the bore. The ring gap should be 1.9mm. 2.1mm is max. Better still would be to get the piston and bore measured accurately (a local engineer should be able to do this for a drink) Piston to bore clearance should be around 0.07 or 0.08mm, anything more and it needs a rebore. From what I remember original pistons only come in .0 (standard) .2 .4 .6mm sizes So for a 250 the largest original piston is 72.6mm. (and the bore at max would be 72.68mm) You can go to a 73mm pattern piston, but you need to take a waffer of material out of the crankcase mouth for it to clear. Easy to do with a bit of patience and a Demel. You could also get it relined if it's too far gone and I think stock liners are still available (an Ossa dealer in the USA). I had one done once on a TY and it was quite possibly the worst experience of my life, the muppet had it nearly a year, didn't dress the ports so it mullered the new piston and rings and left a gap under the lip so it sank the first time it heated up!

Sounds like piston slap. Mine sounded like this before I had it rebored, the skirt of the piston slapped the bore causing an identical rattle. You'll need to get the bore and piston measured properly all the way down.

The Super Smooth 300 is not detuned (nor is a model fitted with a flywheel weight). Fitting a flywheel weight, slow action throttle, smaller gearbox sprocket, fatter grips and altering the clutch plates is not going to alter the power and torque the engine produces overall. They'll produce the same power and torque as a standard model. What these alterations do is alter how the power is delivered. Many find some or all these alterations (to a 300 in particular) make better use of the available torque, which they find the a bit too flat on the 250's. Without actually feeling the effect yourself, it's kind of hard to explain, but the mods tend to tie the bike down a little better to the ground, yet the motor still produces a meaty amount of torque which some owners of 250's complain is missing. So you get all the grunt with less of the "hit" which the standard 300's seem to offer just off idle. When you really start to consider it, you can easily alter how the 300 delivers it's power and torque, which is something some 250 owners do complain about. Beta for the UK market have been selling their models with flywheel weights as standard for years, not just the 270's, 290's and 300's, but their 250's too. I remember all my Rev3's being sold with them and my first was a 250 in 2001.

The most noticeable change came in 2015, though there were various tweeks with each years model. Beta revised the flywheel and stator arrangement for 2015, so the stator is on the outside rather than under the flywheel and the flywheel inboard closer to the crankshaft. This allowed them to make a better job of sealing the flywheel cover, which was prone to water getting in along with reducing the gyroscopic effect caused by the flywheel being hung out further. I believe this made the usually bolt on flywheel weight kit redundant and a complete new, heavier flywheel is needed to smooth it out (SS models), so it's easier and cheaper to Smooth out a pre 2015 300 yourself. I ride a standard 2014 300 with just a bolt on flywheel weight and IMHO it's perfect! Without the weight it's a bit punchy with a strong "hit" just off idle, but the weight really smooths it out and allows you to use the better torque it has over the 250.

Perhaps they can paint it red and slap some new stickers on it! That might be a joke, but it could also be not for from the truth. We can all see Spain routing for the Spanish, it won't be a shock if a current, local bike manufacturer are successful. I think they'll continue producing and selling some of the current Gasgas bike line up (maybe with some visual "nod" to the new owners, but it won't be anything too far from what we all know) and then start to merge their two product lines and start producing a line of electric cycles and bikes under the Gasgas name. I can't imagine they'll all be trials models, perhaps one or two electrically propelled models might make it to market (the kids version linked above for a start) More likely is they'll lend the name to their other products. As already wirtten, no one's really heard much about them, but acquiring Gasgas, they'll have a (worthwhile?) Spanish name, perhaps bigger/better factory, cherry pick their empolyees, increase their importer/dealer network and a bit of sporting heritage to add to what they already have, all for a quite reasonable price. I can see this being one of a range of Gasgas in the future, sold in your local Gasgas dealer and the name Torrot may slowly evaporate. http://torrotelectric.com/en/citysurfer

It's usual to turn up in good time, sign on, sort yourself and your bike out and wait for the start. As the weather is turning now in the UK, take a towel and a complete change of clothes, pants, socks the lot, so you don't drive home with a soggy a***. They can be fairly draining days, so a good slow burner of a breakfast works well, like a big bowl of porridge before you set off along with drinks and snacks for the day (bananas), not forgetting something for the trip home. A lot of places don't like you riding around aimlessly before start and I too suffer with those nervous first few minutes. So once directed to start, I don't often go direct to the first section, but have a mad dash about in the woods for a few minutes on the bike, it warms the bike and me up a bit, so my a*** ain't gripping the rear mudguard! Once at the first section, then walk it, study it well, watch others, pick your line and it's fairly safe to say, don't change your mind! Try not to frighten yourself, a bad first trial can do lots of damage to your head! So perhaps come to terms with the fact you ain't going to win first outing and tackle the sections you can and maybe miss out anything that daunts you or you can't work out. Another way would be to try these sections next time around. Quite often trials are multi lap affairs and you usually ride better the second and third lap of say a four lapper. (the fourth starts slipping as you get knackered!). If you crack these iffy ones, you can always double up and ride them again. As mentioned, it's good to watch others, but maybe less so to ask, we're all good sportsmen and women when we want to be! It's good etiquette to thank your observers on the last lap, the poor buggers stand there all day for your pleasure, it's the least they desevre. Above all, enjoy it and remember what the experience has taught you. No doubt it'll be you ain't as fit as you think and/or it's gonna cost a packet to fix!

First check the valve actually shuts off. The little valve, valve seat and seal under the valve seat can leak, gum or grit up so clog open or the little (what looks like) rubber tip on the valve can distort, crease, stick or break up. If it's suspect or damaged it is replaceable, there should be a number/size stamped on it and a carb specialist/ebay should see you source a new one for that particular carb. I find the easy way to do this is remove the float bowl and gently blow down the fuel inlet pipe while gently lifting the float up and down. It should cut off completely (at some point) when lifted. Next check the floats haven't punctured and filled with fuel, that will also stop the fuel shutting off as well. A good place to start with setting the float shut off height is with the floats tang level to the float bowls sealing surface/gasket on the carbs body. So turn it upside down, hold it up to eye level from the side and let the floats hang down. With the floats tang level to the surface/gasket, it should "just" shut the fuel off. It can be adjusted by carefully bending the part of the tang that pushes on the head of the inlet valve. But writting this, certain Beta's, like the later Rev3 did need the shut off height adjusting lower (so the loose end of the float tang was higher up) as the carbs were fitted sloping forwards by quite a degree and I just can't remember the angle of the TR's! While you've got the carb apart, check the jets are clear, if you unscrew them and hold them up to the light you should be able to see if the holes are clear and round.

It's not easy to test the crankseals. It usually involves blocking the inlet and exhaust, applying some vacuum or air pressure to the engine and seeing if it holds or weeps away. Though most will notice the engine just won't idle properly when they start to leak. They usually give a lean mixture "ringa ding ding" after blipping the throttle and a very uneven idle hunting up and down instead of settling down to a smooth idle, no matter what you do with the carb settings. With it's difficultly starting and when it does go, spitting raw fuel out the silencer, it sounds like it's flooding up. Is the inlet valve in the carbs float bowl shutting off and if so, is it shutting the fuel off soon enough? If it's not shutting off, fuel will just run through the carb and fill the crank up, hence the difficulty getting it to fire and it ejecting all that raw fuel that's picking up carbon out of the exhaust and decorating your garage! It's a common issue when they've been stood a while, petrol (gas) goes off very quickly and tends to leave behind a green furry tarnish that gums up the carb.

I seem to think the Beta hydraulics are all Gremica from 2005. Any Beta agent/importer would supply the correct seals and pistons if needed. The Gremica 4 pot fronts look very similar to the AJP 4 pots (is one a copy of the other?) and I seem to remember talk of them being a straight swap, well almost, I seem to think the pipes/banjos might be of different sizes. As I wrote, don't be too eager to split the calipers on the off chance. If the pads are around 2mm or less, that will cause them to jam up, so clean it up, fit new pads and set the correct free play at the lever.

I would have agreed 15 years ago, but Fiat now come out above both Pug and Citroen in regards to resale percentages. Citroen actually hold the record for the biggest hit in resale values in the UK with their old Xsara Picasso, so they haven't got the greatest track record either. A VW TDi? I can only presume it would be a viable choice in the summer when burning your hard earned isn't really needed due to the weather. You've also got to consider selling a privately owned small van in a sea of crappy old builders wagons and high mileage fleet owned dross is going to be almost a pleasure, no matter who made it.

Have you thought of a Fiat Doblo? (it's what Vauxhall now call their Combo after altering the badges with a crayon) With Fiat's Affinity or Privilage Schemes you can get up to 36% off a new one. (but it changes quarterly) http://www.westmidspolfed.com/member-services/services/?/Fiat-Group/ To qualify I believe you need to be an employee or family of the Police, BT, NHS or one or two other such organisations, but I think member of IAM and British Cycling qualify too. (£20 to register) https://www.britishcycling.org.uk/search/article/bc-20100421-Fiat-offer-For-Members-0 I've got three motors through these schemes and saved over £12000!

There are a few reasons they jam on and it's worth checking these before stripping the caliper down. One is due to the master cylinder being over adjusted. There should be a few mm of free play before the lever actually pushes on the master cylinder piston. So check the adjustment on the lever. Another common one on these four pot front calipers is because the pads have worn down too far. As the pistons in the caliper are quite small they don't have to come out of the body too far before they aren't supported striaght in the bores properly, so they twist and jam. It can appear there's still some "life" left on the pads, but anything nearing 2mm of friction lining left and it's time to change them.

Yes, the carbon effect ones work well and just clip over to fit. I think Ian Pebery did mine.

The frames are made of two different steels on the upper parts, I believe the lower parts are alloy on both. The manifolds are different too, stainless vs Ti. The crankcases are Alloy vs Magnesium. And I think the front forks/clamps? are different too. I guess you can add in a load of screws and fasteners made from Ti and some other light (or Leight as Vertigo say) materials and it all add up to the 3 kg difference. Based on the price of the Combat, I'm guessing Ice Hell might be Price Hell! Though I still want to try their "Engine Fun Control Sensor"!

I think I got it from Haven trials and it cost around £230, but that was a few years ago. Looking at the webpage and it seems they don't sell online anymore, so give them a ring. They have a choice of spring, soft, standard and heavy. I went for standard. I think Bosi offroad list them on their site too. http://www.bosioffroad.it/en/products/rear-shock BTW it's Olle, not Ollie, my mistake.

No idea, but I'm waiting myself!

You can also get a replacement made by Ollie. I used one when my bladder inside mine popped and the shock slurped badly. Took a few goes to set it up, but it worked fine.

I've not owned one, but spend a little bit of time on one. It's hard to explain, but I think I wrote if you jumped on one and set off flat out down a field, you'd feel a little disappointed as it does feel power limited this way. It'll get to the end of what the motor can do and that's it. This is no real surprise as there's no selectable gearing, so it's like trying to bomb down a field in second or third gear on a petrol bike (without the racket) But saying that, this sort of thing wasn't what it was designed or made to do. At the sort of in section speeds, it's power is pretty instant (though it did feel there was a small delay which I'm told can be dialed out). And I reckon it has enough power and torque to cope. Where I think it may be off putting for someone that is used to petrol bikes (and this is only my opinion) is it's "clutch" and lack of flywheel. There is a "ELS" lever in place of a clutch, this seems to cut power rather than disengaging drive like a normal clutch. This can be a little strange as there is no way of knowing how much power you've layed on with the throttle while this lever is pulled in. (with a petrol you'd hear/feel it rev up and load a flywheel). Because of this, it had to rethinking my technique a little and try and ride without "clutch dumping" and flywheel weight assistance. I'm sure as it involved a rethink of my technique, over time you gain the confidence in it to unleash the power right off the throttle or become accustomed to how much throttle to dial in before letting fly the ELS lever, either that or it's just me!

The one thing that stands out when I watch those that are early on in their trials carrers is the "wheelie - slam" approach to obstacles. They've worked out lifting the front up or onto an obstacle and to start with the obstacles are small enough for the rear wheel to climb on it's own. But as soon as it's too big they slam the rear into it (and usually off it) and wonder what the feck went wrong! Thinking back I remember working out the blip, timing and weight transfer to lift the rear up over obstacles and counted it a big step forward (over a log!) There's also been some good points made regarding braking, speed and gear selection. Riding sections is a confidence game, keeping the feeling of having the bike in check and more often than not it'll go where you want it to. It'll also give time to put whatever techniques are needed it to action. It's amazing how often you don't, even if you count yourself a good rider, there's an awful lot of times where you "get through" and not know how!

You're not the first to suffer with Dunlop. It's well noted the IRC's do not work with the later Morad flanged rims, but it now appears Dunlops don't either. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/55065-2014-evo-rear-tyre-going-flat/ The only tyre that works on these rims appears to be Michelin.

But don't use it all, as you'll have nothing left for Saturday night on the town!

It's difficult to say without looking at it. But you've got to think this maybe why it had a tube in it when you bought it. They can get a bit rough through corrosion and damage and owners get fed up with it leaking. If it's not too bad, a bead sealer might fill out any dints and dimples. It's a rubberized paint that you lightly coat around the rim, where the tyre contacts it, just before fitting the tyre. Car tyre specialist use it on porous alloy wheel rims and it's popular with scooter owners, to seal the two half wheels together.