goudrons

How does your current, left foot setup work? The right footed system works kind of oddly. The pedal is connected to a spindle with a return spring (which also helps tension the chain tensioner which fits over the spindle) with the cable actuator arm attached to the other end. (pedel right-acutator and cable left side) It's held in the frame between the foot rest by two plastic bushes and some split pins. The nipple for the cable inner is connected to the frame very near to one of the lower mounts for the sump shield, so when the pedel is pressed, the spindle rotates and pushes the actuator arm backwards. (not the right way to pull a cable!) But the actuator arm works on the cable outer, (the inner is held tight to the frame) so it pushes the cable outer backwards causing it to pull the brake on. If your current left foot system is the same, except for the pedal on the left, then I guess you just need a right footed pedal/spindle and perhaps the spring. You'll find a parts list here http://www.custgp.com/downloads.html By the sounds of it, you're hitting a false neutral between 3rd and 4th. This could be due to shaft float. The ends of the gearbox shafts (that protude through the cases) should be measured and shimmed accordingly whenever they are rebuilt to allow for the right amount of float in the shafts. I've a little too much float in one of mine and it doesn't like 2nd without visiting 1st first!

In regards to bore and pistons, it's correct that the bore is plated with a chrome like coating and as such, can't be rebored, but when worn is replated. Again, it's correct there are oversize pistons available, but they are only microns bigger than the last, not millimeters! (they are usually marked up A, B, C & D) The idea is (check handbook) to check after X hours use and when required replace the piston with the next one up until it's gone too far and it needs a replate and you start again from A. In reality, they get worn out way past the largest piston before anyone does any checking so a replate is needed. I have never bought an exchange barrel and piston, but supplied a new piston to the replating company (Langcourts) and had the plating matched to that particular piston. As you are unsure of what is rattling, I would advise having someone confirm the problem before attempting a "shot in the dark" repair as it can all start getting very expensive. Maybe start with the piston and bore being measured properly, while the barrel is off asked them to check the mains and big end.

This probably won't help, but I've never had any luck rebuilding those 4 pot calipers! I've failed twice in the past and bought new, both times I put it down to the possibility of worn bores, the alloy is fairly soft (and light) I never noticed that the seals are chamfered on the inner surface, but it could be possible, so it might be worth removing them or inspecting the old ones very carefully. Normally the two main reasons they stick are: Over adjusted master cylinder actuator, so the piston in the MC can't return fully, so it pumps and pumps but can't let the fluid return, so it's worth backing off the adjuster at the lever first. Or The pads have worn down too much and the pistons come out too far. This leads the pistons to twist or kink in the bores. As they are so small they don't have to come out too far to loose support from the bores they sit in to stay square and can lead to jamming. It's something I've noticed is particular to the 4 pots, it can appear that there is still some life in the pads and not fully worn out, but worn just enough for this to happen.

You needn't both cutting a hole in the head to help locating the push rods. Just wrap an elastic band around both rocker arms, this will lift them up and cause the other ends to protrube enough to make locating the rods very easy. The band will stretch as you push the head down onto the barrel and jobs a good'un! Once on, just remove the band. I always set mine 3mm BTDC and used a 22mm Dellorto direct from Eurocarb. It reved out quite nicely, but because of the R cam it never idled that well, they never do with an R! As already noted, a lot of knock off Mikuni VM22's for pike bikes get listed as 26mm, this 26mm is the airbox end's opening, not the size of the carb. So it sounds like you have the right size at least.

An alloy aftermarket tank is available from Sammy Miller Products or http://www.p-drr.co.uk/Fuel_tanks.html But neither will be cheap. Alloy ones only got fitted (swapped) to UK bikes back in the day, so there aren't many originals floating about, you might get (very) lucky on Ebay, but they do tend to sell for good money. Marlimar (Steve Sell) is the Ossa parts man, both new and used. He can usually help with most parts, though it's not his main business so you might need to leave a message, but he does get back to you and is a top bloke too. mob 07800778048 They are pretty straight forward, though if you are splitting the engine cases, removing the primary sides "cush" drive is almost impossible without a special tool to pull it off the crank. And the gearbox shafts should be reshimmed when rebuilding, which is a bit of a pain. You'll find a parts diagram here http://www.custgp.com/downloads.html Other than that, I wouldn't go too mad with the cash, for some reason they don't quite make the same sort of money as some other twinshocks do, even though they ride really well when sorted and are pretty reliable.

I think you'll find it depends on who and how the original application form for a V5 was filled in. I remember filling an application in years ago and it was just a blank space to fill in whatever you thought appropriate, for both make and model! (Think it still is) Can you not just search on make and frame/chassis number? If not, anyone know who imported them? Or try Bill Pye, he seems to be in the know, Fantic wise.

You'll no doubt discover the mounting bolts are M7's. So save your money if you're thinking of fitting those clever, countersunk, shock fitting kits! They always come with M6's and I've yet to find a countersunk M7.

Harpower rings a bell as the other reed converter. There are plenty of other ways to crisp the motor up before thinking about reed valves. A decent carb for a start. I've had mine running on both Mikuni VM26 and a 24mm and 26mm VHST. Basically they'll run pretty much what a Beta Rev3 will run on, Mikuni VM's are pretty cheap and easy to tune. The exhaust might need some work too. They run pretty well with or without a silencer, the silencer was only held on with a spring so could be removed easily for "competition". So start with the mid box, they'll no doubt be nothing left in it except a perforated tube. Split it, wrap the tube in stainless wire wool and weld it back together. There was a longer front pipe fitted to the later Verde (green) models that tend to increase the torque slightly, if you can find one, it's worth a try. As written, the silencer is just that, as long as it's not choking up the gases and it's not getting in the way. Some fit a thinner head gasket as the original is quite thick, this decreases the squish gap, some meat needs removing from the heads mating surface to get it to pull down on the barrel without it leaking. I found that changing the front sprocket from 11t to 10t works well (10/44), makes second gear much more usable. A new nut is needed to hold it on, it's machined with a collar to allow the chain to pass without fouling it, available from InMotion.

The No vote isn't much of a suprise. No one who thinks paying income tax is optional is going to vote for austerity! Around 80 billion Euros of tax went uncollected in 2014, even though they are in the brown smelly stuff upto their eyebrows. That's over 80% of what should be their annual tax revenue. To leave or be thrown out of the Euro when you've only 2 billion Euros or so of gold reserve isn't going to benefit them or anyone else either. Sure their bank can start printing a replacement currency so everyone there gets paid, but no one's going to want to export to them for fear of payment and to allow them to service any debt with the stuff? As we all know Monopoly money isn't really real! So they get their hands on worthwhile currency via exporting? What have they to export? The only real outcome is a deal that no ones looses (too much) face, a scapegoat needs to be found, a deal to be struck and I can go on my holidays without stuffing Euros up my a***!

I think you'd need to source a barrel that has already been converted. But it won't be cheap, the last one I saw for sale Steve Sells was selling and he wanted £400 for the barrel, cage & reeds, head and piston. He's pretty reasonable with his prices! There were a couple of companies that converted them, Romatt as one, can't for the life me remember the other. They machined the fins off and screwed a reed cage on, obviously position is important! From looking at my Romatt conversion looks like early TY250 reeds were used in a specially made cage (Embossed with "Romatt") A paper gasket seals up the cage and barrel.

Mk3 MAR

If it revs out yet bogs on the first 1/4 to 1/3 throttle is likely, as already said the pilot. Stale fuel causes all the horrid goo and once it's dried on it's a bugger to shift, carb cleaners don't seem to touch it. You might get some joy scraping and poking at it, but remember Amals are made from some sort of magnesium alloy and are very soft, so get damaged or wear easy. Depending on what you plan, it might be worth investing in a new one. New Amals are available for originality. Mikunis, OKO's and Dellortos are better if you want it to perform and aren't restricted by rules. I've had my Mk3 running well on a VM26 and even better on a 26mm VHST. I think I have all the jets and setting written down somewhere if needed.

As mine was leaking from the inlet guide, it spat oily gunk into the inlet track and mouth of the carb, it didn't smoke up either like I expected., just fouled the plug and idled lumpier and lumpier. To repair I bought the largest guide I could and turned it down to fit tightly. Cut a new valve seat and lapped a new valve in. Think I might have fitted new springs as well. If you are sure the engine is in good nic and it's still fouling plugs it'll be worth rechecking the timing, methinks I set mine around 3mm before TDC even thought it's always written it should be 5mm. Then perhaps buy a set of jets and spend a bit of time trial and erroring, sets of pattern jets are available quite cheaply. Write down all your starting setting/jets and change one thing at a time. Time and space are needed, it can be quite frustrating, mine was road legal, well sort of, so it was easy to run it up and down the road while altering things. There are plenty of guides around the net on carb tuning, but remember, chasing perfection can often be futile, tunings carbs is always a bit of a compromise.

Are you sure there is no oil getting into combustion? I had similar issues and it turned out the inlet valve guide was shot. It was odd as it's better known for the exhaust one to go. BTW, it's a 40 pilot that most supply for cubs.

If it's welded on solid, a softer metal (than the exhaust metal) like copper (for stainless) can be used as a scraper. Just flatten an end of a short bit of copper pipe.

Go and find your local trials club, see http://www.acu.org.uk/centres-clubs/ Go to one of their club trials and introduce yourself to whoever is doing all the paperwork. They'll be more than happy to help you. I've also never bought (or sold) a duff bike from a fellow club member!

You shouldn't be too far of with this: 40 slide D40 needle on middle clip BZ260 atomiser 35 pilot 105 or 110 main 60 choke I bought mine direct from Eurocarb when Serco went tits up, I just asked them to supply me with what they supplied them!

Buy quailty bearings rather than spanky****y ones. Carefully flip one seal out of each bearing and apply some marine grade grease to the race, then pop the seal back. (fit the side you tampered with inwards in the hub) Everyone has different ways of fitting. I have a drift I made that fits the outer but not the seal or inner and drive them in without heat, but a socket of the correct size works as well. Some heat the hub to expand it, some freeze the bearing to contract them and some do both. What you don't want to do is whack the inner part of the bearing, just the outer ring. I've given up jetting washing my bikes, forcing water into every cranny just causes more issues than it's worth. I put it away dirty after I've wiped most of the crude off before I come home. Strip the chain off then allow the bike to dry for a few days, no longer or the cow**** starts to taint the alloy. When it's dried 99% comes off easy with a stiff brush, the rest comes off with a bucket of soapy water and a few assorted brushes. The chain I brush off the crap and wash it off in white spirit in a small bowl, oil it up and store in a plastic bag. They seem to last me years like this. After refitting it, a quick spray of chain wax holds the oil on longer.

That's likely to be the clutch basket. The basket spins free on the gearbox input shaft on a bearing and sleeve, there's always a little bit of play there. When it's all under tension (clutch disengaged) it's all clamped down to the clutch centre that is bolted to the same shaft, so it's quieter as it's all held tight to the shaft. Pull the clutch in and the tension is released from the plates and the basket wobbles a little producing a chattering noise. It's a fairly common noise, particularly when cold and unless it's really noisy, just leave it. If the noise is bad try replacing the sleeve and bearing first. Though I think a little too much play for a any length of time may introduce a bit of wear to the inner surface on the basket as well, where the sleeve/bearing fits into.

As feetup explains, the flat sprocket kit should come with a third bearing/spacer. This is meant to help support the very narrow rear spindle which are prone to bending. When I bought mine is was like a dogs back leg and did not want to come out even with the sprocket conversion, I found a pit bike spindle (12mm I think)that fitted. 350mm should be fine, I can't comment on spring rate as mine is a Mk3 with the shocks leaned right over and needed 65lb springs.

Have the 2 o rings inside the front end of the middle box perished? (they seal the front pipe to mid box) Mine had and it did sound a bit poppy.

They aren't rebored but the lining of the barrels are replated with a special coating of Nikasil chrome. First, buy a new piston kit (new base and head gasket as well), your Beta importer should have them. Then send the new piston and barrel to a specialist Nikasil cylinder plater. They aren't too many of these replaters around, most end up here http://www.langcourt.com/index.html Or their American outlet. They will remove the worn lining, replate and hone it to exactly match the piston you supplied.

Yes, 2000 to 2007 was Mikuni as was the Techno's before. 2008 had the Keihin as do Evo's. I remember their old Zero's from the 90's had Dellorto's. Don't know why they chopped and changed, probably cost lead. I changed my 2007 Rev3 to a flatslide Dellorto VHST, it did highlight the limitations of the Mikuni. It was like chalk and cheese, the improvements were astonishing, a lot smoother and crisper, though filtering needed constant attention as pilots in Dellorto's are prone to blocking with the smallest grain of grit.

Sounds about right for a Rev3 on a Mikuni!

You might be lucky, it looks like someone before you had found the air leak and tried, with limited success, to fix it with all the instant gasket. The gasket between reed assembly and mouth/crankcase is quite a thick one and it should take up some slight unevenness where the the two halves of the crankcases come together and form the inlet mouth. I seem to remember thinking the same on all of mine, all the Beta's I've owned didn't really seem that flush in that area, though the manifolds were flat! Bit of a tip, if you flip the airbox to carb rubber around the other way, it makes removing and refitting the carb easier, seems the airbox end is slightly larger and a bit more pliable.