goudrons

You'll not get this impact deflation with IRC's on a DID flanged rim, it just seems to be limited to Morads flanged version. Shame, as I do like the IRC and have a new one sitting here, but it deflates within minutes of riding on it!

Is the plug fairly dry even after all that kicking? If so it sounds like worn bore and rings. From cold it's not creating enough suction to lift enough the fuel air mix to fire up. Once you've finally got it running and warmed up, the piston and rings have expanded enough to create enough of a seal to fire up again without issue, that is until it's cold and the piston has contracted.

If the rear wheel has a Morad rim with the spokes on a flange (methinks 2011 beta onwards) rather than through the rim, I'd only fit a Michelin. There seems to be issues with other brands sealing and gripping these rims, particularly IRC's and some Dunlops. They'll seal ok when fitted but tend to deflate on impact with steps, rocks, logs etc. There's a few posts scattered about regarding this and I've noticed Trials UK has stopped selling IRC's recently (before they stopped they did have a warning on their site about them)

S3 do head insert that will raise the compression. Fiddling with base gasket thickness will alter when the piston uncovers the ports. They also do a front pipe with an insert that is meant to improve torque. What sort of gains you'd get I don't know, I'd be more worried pre ignition caused by raising the compression and about what (and where) the losses come from! Generally, you get nowt for nowt, a gain here quite often results in a loss somewhere else.

You can try operating the master cylinder with a screwdriver, you should feel the piston rise and then return. If it's stuck at the top as Dadof2 states, it's stuck and needs a strip and clean at the least. Yes, there are rebuild kits available, they aren't expensive and are available from either a Beta importer or many of the online spares shops. Watch out for the which year yours is, I seem to recall Beta altered some of the hydraulics at some point, 2005 rings a bell. When you've cleaned/rebuilt it, set the adjustable actuating rod from the pedal with a few milimeters of free play before it starts to operate the cylinder. Over adjusting this rod will cause the brake to jam on when it's been pumped a few times, the play is needed for the cylinder to return fully otherwise it'll pump up and lock on. Same goes for the clutch and front brake levers. Due to the small size of the master cylinder, it can be a pain bleeding out, it moves very little fluid so an air bubble on the flat section of hose will never pump out! You can remove the caliper, hose and master cylinder as one and hang it up right so fluid runs down. Or With a large syringe from the chemist and a small rubber pipe, gently back bleed the system from the caliper bleed nipple. Just loosen the nipple, attach the syringe and pump the fluid in until it stops spitting in the ressie, then nip the nipple up. Also worth noting the 4 piston calipers tend to jam once the pads have worn down a bit. The tiny pistons don't like extending too far out of the caliper before they twist and jam as they can no long stay straight in the bores. They tend to do this before the pads are completely worn out.

All bikes have the pluses and drawbacks and choosing between them all can give you a headache, we all have our favourites and we all get the fun from whatever we choose. I'd say the TY and for a bit of run trailing and trialing as a beginner, as Jon V8 points out, I'd perhaps look for a TY Mono from the 80's. The older mono class hasn't yet taken off, so they can be picked up far cheaper than twinshocks, which are getting expensive (and a better investment than an ISA these days) and parts even rarer (and expensive). They are well catered for by spares, new and used. You could likely pick two complete bikes up for the price of a twinshock. They are hard to kill and always seem to ride better when they are shagged out! They all rattle! You won't be crying if you drop it and break the odd part. And as you progress you can chop and mod it without fear of loosing a load of money, lowering and postioning the foot rests further back and front disc brake conversions are popular. They came with a "road kit" from new, so depending on what your laws say about road legal, it should not be too hard to put lights and speedo on one if needed.

I wonder if this is related http://www.trialscentral.com/sub-headlines/21-trials-bike-news/15761-beta-evo-2014-2t-selector-fault

Yes, it does sound like it's leaning out. That's something you notice more when warmed up. Also screwing the air screw in will enrichen the mix, same goes for applying a little "choke" which tends to counter the lean mix at idle. The clue might be all the instant gasket, someone might have been chasing a leak for a while before you got it and attempted various "fixes". Dan's right and right and right again. Clean carb, Only run them on 98 or 99 octane fuel. Try some carb or brake cleaner spray, see if you can find the leak, the engine note will stumble if it sucks the stuff in, worth replacing the instant gasket goo with the proper paper ones.

I think there may be an answer to this. What about some sort of audible signal that increases in pitch the more the throttle is wound on? That shouldn't be too hard to do, wouldn't add much weight or use much battery power. For ultimate customer appeal, maybe the user could upload their own sound file. Though it might lead to owners uploading Mr Methane Fart App!

Worth checking your chain tensioner has both springs still attached and working otherwise they tend to sag. There should be one spring wound around the swinging arm and the tensioners arm. And another spring from the tensioner block (where the chain runs through) to a pin welded on the inside of the swinging arm.

2 & 1/2 turns out is stated in the owners manual. Fine turning is by feel/ear. Best using 1/4 turns from your base setting (2 & 1/2) Richen up too far and the engine will sound dull and laboured. Lean out too much and it'll not settle back to an even idle after blipping the throttle, it'll ring a ding ding! You're after an even, smooth idle that responds to the throttle cleanly, yet returns back smoothly to an even idle after blipping. Also worth noting that mixture screws on different carbs work different ways. If the screw is behind the slide (airbox side) it effects the air, winding out leans and winding in richens. Like the Keihin. If the screw is after the slide (engine side) it effects the fuel, winding out richens and winding in leans. Like a Delorto.

Guys, I guess I didn't word that correctly. What I'm suggesting is the energy used to power a flywheel and operate through a conventional clutch would more than likely limit it's operating window. Due to friction it would use more energy storing the power in the flywheel and transmitting it through a clutch than it got out of the energy stored in the fly in the first place. The electric motor isn't too far away from being instant enough already, and since it's either off or on, it uses nothing until it moves via the motor. Andy, I completely agree, to get a better picture, one would need to spend a lot more time on one, most of what I mentioned is to do with natural feel of the thing and confidence and to be fair, the above is just my opinion, I'm sure others have different ones. I also agree with leaving the "clutch" lever alone and concentrating on technique is probably the way to go.

There's obvious issues with battery life and weight adding a flywheel and conventional clutch system. Quite a lot of battery would just spin away into thin air winding up a flywheel. Sure it would make it ride more like petrol, but I'm still not convinced it would be like for like and fair to compare it with a modern petrol model at this time. I don't want to sound unfair to them, because I'm all for them, but I'm going out on a limb and perhaps suggesting it might be best in a class of it's own or the very least, it's limited to a certain class/level of competition until they move on a bit more. I'd be more than happy to compete in a class with others on the same sort of machine, though I might be p****d off having to refuse to attempt something that I normally wouldn't bat an eyelid tackling (and someone on a petrol in my class does!) After riding it, I'm more sure now that the development will come, sooner or later and to be honest, it was a lot further on than my prejudiced mind first thought! Also, it might not seem like a big deal, but it does kind of feel upbeat it's on sale and they're being bought, like our sport will have some future, no matter who and what tries to scupper it. It's a step, whether it's a forward one at the moment I'm not sure, but at least our sport it not standing still and as we all know, there's no big enough manufacturers to fully develop a machine first, they all sell and develop them on the go through customers and competition, so anyone that has bought one, good on you and good luck!

I've been lucky enough to try an EM5.7. (thanks Steve) It's hard to compare with a petrol bike, but it really did surprise me once my head got around a few things. It doesn't feel like it's that powerful, no matter what setting, best it felt was similarly powered to a 125, with the thottle wide open, flat out, you might feel a little robbed, but it does have some strong low down urge. Power delivery seemed aggresive enough, but it felt there was a small delay, almost like you'd get with too much slack in a cable (of a petrol bike), once past the first couple of mm of twist, the motor bit fairly fiecely (and the owner looked a bit nervous as he stood well back and I wanged it open) So a little right wrist finesse is needed and a bit of forward thinking hopping steps and logs (more later on that) As mentioned, climbing needs the power on all the way, there's no flywheel to carry you on. After your first (failed) attempt, it's easily over come and feels natural enough to power all the way. Hopping steps and logs I first attempted to use the "clutch" or ELS or whatever it's called, but it doesn't really work as you'd expect. It just seems to stop the motor powering rather than what you'd think it would do, ie spin the motor up yet disengage drive. Due to this, I found it unnatural to wind the throttle on (with no sense of what the motor is doing) and dumping the lever to get it to rear up. This tended to be a bit hit and miss, I guess due to not being aware of how much input you have on the motor, as it's not spinning and not making a noise you can't really gauge what state it's likely to be in when the lever is released. Once I'd dismissed the lever for this sort of thing and considered myself a lazy git, I went back to ye olde ways of a bit of technique, it seemed a lot easier to hop it up. With a bit more concentration and timing I found it responded well to rolling in, compressing the forks, flicking the throttle and springing off the rear shock without messing with the lever, after all you can stop and start without it and the power does bite fairly well. I certainly got it to step up way further than I expected and slapped the seat into my balls a few times, but I could sense it being a little limited this way. I wouldn't have liked to attempt anything to big this way, I'm not sure I'd trust the power deliver to come in 100% of the time (due to batteries) to launch it way up high all the time. And not sure I'd get used to gauging how far to wind the throttle on and use the lever without any senses telling me what state the motor is likey to be at when released either. I didn't get the use to really comment on battery life, again more time on one would tell. All in all, like I first wrote, quite a surprise and with a bit of time and practice on it, I wouldn't be put off attempting an Inter route on one. I can see there are some good pluses for beginners and novices and if/when the electric competition comes, (a manufacturer war is always good for development) I can see them moving on very quickly, either that or we're all forced onto them!

Beta's do pink and bang a lot on normal octane 95 fuel. I think Beta's Handbooks state to use 98. My old 2001 was worse, it barked an awful predentonation "bang" like the big end was failing every now and then and had an angry grating rattle on the over run on 95, but ran very smoothly on 98. My 2007 was slightly better, but I'd learnt by then and I also binned the Mikuni for a Delorto VHST. Nothing but Tesco's finest 99 Momentum for my Evo now. Methinks the 2001 had, as mentioned the airbox cover on the left hand side instead of through a flap in the seat. I also seem to think the switch for the fan was fitted to the top of the radiator on a 2001 and from 2002 onwards, it was fitted to the bottom.

Someone certainly has had a bit of fun with that swinging arm, as mentioned the side stand bracket looks like Stevie Wonder has had a go at welding. If you're replacing it for an original resto, match up the replacement carefully as Ossa fitted different arms to different marks, methinks mk2, 3's and Verde's had the shock mounts over the spindle rather than in front like yours, which I believe is from a Mk1. The top mounts on the frame also moved around over the years, shocks went from almost up right (mk1), to canted forward slightly (mk2), canted over almost flat (mk3) back to canted slightly like the Mk2 for the Verde. If you're doing it for a decent ride, grind all that bollocks off, trees are perfect props, you also might want to drop the foot rests back and down and fit some wider ones, rather than those standard "blades". Back around an inch to an inch and a half, down level with the back of the sump guard (when you get one) is about right. In regards to the sump guard, Mk1's had a chocolate/fibre guard, like this http://ossacels.com/ventas/index.php?id_product=67&controller=product&id_lang=1 Mk2 & 3's alloy ones. Mk1 barrels had a flange and 2 stud fitting for the carb on 250's with a fibre spacer. Mk2 & 3's had a stub on the barrel and rubber coupling to fit the carb with just a couple of jubilee clips. All 350's I think all had flange and stud fittings like the Mk1 250s. Verde's had a stub like mk2 & 3's, but also had cut outs to the barrel fins, so by the looks of yours, it's probably from a later "Verde" model, they made the Verde's from 1978. If you're in the UK, Steve Sell is the man for all your parts. Steve's e-mail is steve@marlimar-uk.wanadoo.co.uk mobile 07800 778048 You might need to leave a message, but he does get back to you.

Didn't someone suggest that a while ago? lol. I'm not one of those conspiracy nuts, but it is odd that these Morad rims only works with Michelin, are the French and Spainish in cahoots? I never had any issues with the older "spokes through" Morad rims, (apart from the obvious leaking issues due to loose spokes and dodgy rim band) just seems the latest solid rims have the issue with impact deflation with IRCs and now it seems Dunlops. As they don't show any signs of leaking "in the garage" it can be a right a*** working out the problem. I don't think it's a limited production problem with either tyre or rim, I first heard grumblings regarding this a few years ago (which I almost ignored due to the fact I didn't own one) I seem to think Trials UK no longer list IRCs and unless my memory has finally given up, when they did list them, the stated they do not fit these Morad rims. I'm sure the problem doesn't exsist with DiD rims, not heard of anyone with a Montesa complain and my old Beta Zero never suffered even though it's back wheel was buckled like a dogs back leg!

The Beta parts catalogue is pretty good in regards to actually stating bearing and seal sizes. 46 is part number 007330390000 15x21x12 Roller cage and I believe there are two needed. The two seals (52) are 15x21x3 http://www.betamotor.com/system/attachments/0000/5683/Evo_2T_125_200_250_290_300factory_2011_rev08.pdf

I replaced the dog bone bushes, bearing and seals but I checked the bearing sizes first on the Beta parts list. I didn't buy Beta's bearing or seals, but bought some quality ones as I didn't know the origins of Beta's ones, I only got the bushes from Beta. It's true, one end (frame I think) on the dogbone has smaller inner diameter bushes than the other end as the shanks of the bolts aren't the same diameter. There's 4 part numbers for one dogbone as all four bushes are different. Two short ones, each with a different Inner Diameter. Two longer ones, each with a different Inner Diameter. So one long and one short with the smaller ID at the front. And One long and one short with a larger ID and the rear. After all the messing getting the bearings in and out, (they need to fit perfectly centre with a gap each end to fit the seal) and the feckin' bushes in the right way around, I wished I'd just bought the complete dogbones for an extra few quid! Pack them with Marine grade grease, it doesn't wash out as easily and make sure the seals are fitted the right way. I've still some play in the swinging arm, up and down, but I can't for the life of me find it. It seems the bottom of the shock swings a tiny amount, back and forth, as I move the swinging arm up and down, yet there's no detectable play anywhere!

It's not rebored as such, but the plating is stripped and reapplied to match a new piston. This is what I was told years ago when this plating became common. The pistons often come in several sizes, usually marked A, B, C and D, each microns bigger than the one before, the idea is after X amount of use, the bore and piston is measured and the appropriate piston, if needed is fitted. Once the last size has been exceeded a new A piston is bought and supplied to the replating company to start all over again. Which is why all the owners handbooks state they need checking after X hours use. What tends to happen is the bore gets worn so much before it causes any running issues (or any are noticed), that no matter which piston is fitted it's still not big enough and a replate is the only option. Then whatever piston the supplier has (to hand, most of, got left) gets shipped and the barrel is plated to that one. I've had a few barrels replated, as Zero points out, by Langcourts of Weston Super Mare, their work seems to be very good and turnaround is usually within a week if sent direct, but choice is limited as there isn't many that do it, they nearly all farm out to Langcourts! I've only ever had to do one Beta that over heated badly (before I got it), generally the plating of Beta's is quite good when it comes to wear, but it's obviously prone to damage by excess heat, lack of lubrication or foriegn matter entering the engine.

Disc brakes can often creak or knock due to the way they are attached to the wheel hub. The discs aren't bolted directly on, but use "top hat" spacers between the bolts and discs to limit the heat transfer between disc and hub. You always get a little back and forth "float" in them, many replace the spacers, but it's often the holes in the disc where the spacers fit have gone oval as well after years of slapping back and forth. This can cause the disc to skimmy a little when braking. Contaminates are the biggest cause, cleaning fluids, WD40, brake fluid and suspension fluid (from leaks) getting onto the pads and/or discs. You need to bin the friction material and replace if you've anything on them, but I find you can clean the discs off by riding up and down with the brakes on, so the discs are feckin' mad hot (thats a technical term in case you didn't know) then pour clean water on them. You know when you've done it right because the water sizzles and turns to steam. The steering bearings can creak too, particularly when braking heavy, down hills, so worth checking, regreasing and tightening them as it can sound like the brakes.

Make sure the igntion is right, all the connections are tightly fitting and clean. Particularly the small wire connection to the coil. The wire that push fits to the coil (spade connector) can rattle/open up or get very mucky and cause issues when the bike moves, yet run ok when stationary. (I chased that one myself for hours) Now check through the fuel system. Check the carb carefully, that is has the right jets, that they are clear (same for the air bypass in the rear opening), that the enrichment circuit (choke) seals properly when closed, floats not punctured (rattle them to see if fuel has got in) and reset the height again, very carefully! Check the carbs balance tubes are free (most call them overflows, but they are to allow air in as fuel comes out) One on the bottom (float bowl) and one on the side (slide) Does fuel flow to the carb properly (blocked tap/fuel filter) from the tank, particularly when tipped up from the back (try main and reserve settings) and does the inlet valve to the float chamber cut it off when full? Check the intake rubber manifold for splits and cracks and that it's sealed to the engine properly, maybe the weight of the carb is opening a spilt up as the bike moves. Once you're sure all that is ok, it may be time to think about getting the engines ability to hold pressure tested (crank seals, head gasket) A two stroke specialist should be able to bung up the inlet and exhaust, than apply a small amount of air pressure via the plug hole. If it can't hold a few pounds, you've a leak somewhere, often a spray of soapy water shows from where!

A Penny! Think I'm made of money? Nice idea though. I like the clutch holding as well. A lot of people weld an arm to an old metal clutch plate to hold them, but one of those tools I linked to have quite a few uses, apart from clutches, flywheels, primary gears, it'll hold gearbox sprockets on bikes that require a nut to hold them on, Like my MAR. I've also gripped a few crank pulleys on cars with them.

To get at the main bearings you need to split the cases, this can be tricky without the right tools. First off, get everything you need before hand, new bearings (make sure they are C3 rated mains), gaskets, seals, tools etc, it sounds silly but leaving an engine apart longer than needed and it's likely you'll forget where everything goes! Some items are best removed while the engine is still in the bike, particularly the tight nuts of the clutch centre, flywheel and perhaps primary gear, otherwise you have trouble holding the engine still while applying enough torque to the nuts when it's on a bench. Store the bits you remove together, like all the clutch items in one container and so on. A few sheets of cardboard with a rough online of the engine (and which side it is) drawn on will help store the casing bolts, just push them through in the correct postions they came out. A tool like this will hold the clutch centre to undo the nut. It can also be used to hold the flywheel and primary gear too, so it's a bargain! http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.do?method=view&n=678&p=547524&c=215&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Hand%20Tools&gclid=CL2N8sDWmMUCFSMUwwodpa4AqA The correct flywheel puller is needed. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-flywheel-puller.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=shopping&gclid=CMHLy-7XmMUCFernwgodd2oAow Once you're down and ready to split the cases many will use a case splitter if they have one, but with a bit of care you can tap and wiggle them apart, but be gentle and take your time. You'll ruin the case faces (and sealing will become an issue) levering them apart, so don't do it! You need to heat around the cases/bearing to remove and install them. Once the cases around the main bearings are hot enough (and expanded) the bearings should "tap" out. If you find you are tempted to "bash" them out, they ain't hot enough! Plenty of posts on youtube for that though.

The knocking could be a little pre detonation, they don't really like 95 octane fuel, then again it could be a worn engine. As stated, when they fail to idle with the choke off, it's usually a blocked pilot jet and a clean should sort it. Clutch slip could be that someone has over adjusted the lever, but again there could be worn plates or other issues. It makes a change from the usual story of unsuspecting viewers slamming them in gear when the clutch sticks, then ending up in a hedge three gardens away! From what's written, the 2003 wasn't the best model. A lot of owners felt the front to back balance had been altered, how true this is I don't know, I skipped a few years and went from 2001 to 2007. You don't get much for your money anymore, but with a possible engine issue, it'd need to be cheaper for me. You won't get any change out of £300 to rebuild the top end if it's needed, throw in another £50 for a clutch and that's doing it yourself, with a few other odds and sods you're looking at the sort of money decent 07's and 08's go for.