dirtrider

The 349 is a red tank 1980's model, whilst the 247 is a 1972 model with the slimline tank but plastic mudguards (right hand gear lever). Still not sure what to do.

If you were offered a couple of cheap montesa's locally, one a 247 the other a 349, which one would you buy? Both similar price and condition ie reasonable but not mint. I've never owned a Montesa and I just fancy trying a few twinshock events on one. Any opinions on which one to go for or should I just forget it? I'm not short of bikes to ride but you know how it is!

Honda RS How can you tell if the carb is badly worn? The throttle slide doesn't feel sloppy in the carb body at all. Also if the carb is worn then wouldn't it run badly when cold? I assume that a badly worn carb would result in a weak and perhaps variable mixture by allowing air to pass when it shouldn't?

Unfortunately the problem persists. I'll check the petrol pipe for kinks, Gordon, and anything else that might cure it. It did start form hot OK sometimes today but sometimes I had to wait for it to cool down. I think I'll just have to go through everything again and see if I can find anything. Either that or just stick to the B40 which starts first time hot or cold. Who said pre 65 bikes were unreliable?

Gordon I'm chancing it in a trial tomorrow. It's really the only way to try it out properly. The main purpose is to try and sort it, although it would be nice to finish. I've put a couple of different grade plugs in my pocket to try. I've cleaned all the filters as you described, but I think it will be a good idea to check the valve clearances again. 3 thou I think is what they should be. Better go and have a look and adjust them. Thanks for the advice, I'll let you know what happens after the trial.

Has anybody had any trouble starting their TLR, Seeley etc when hot? I did my first trial on the Seeley a couple of weeks ago and it ran fine for the first lap, stopping to inspect each section and then starting it again. However, at the end of the second lap, by which time the engine was well warmed up, I stalled it on a section(my fault) and could'nt restart it. After a long push back to the van, you can guess what happened, it started first time. I got going again, but it was fading on sections at low revs, and it cut out again. Retired first time out, not a great start! (Didn't mention the puncture I had to fix after the very first section). I've since stripped and cleaned the carb, checked float level, flushed out the tank, replaced HT lead and cap, checked all connections etc. It starts easily from cold but won't start when hot. Petrol is'nt getting into the cylinder since the plug is bone dry. I've had this problem on my Cheney BSA pre 65 motocross bike, which was fuel vapourisation. I cured it by fitting a tufnell spacer between the carb and cylinder head. However, the Honda already has a spacer and heat shield. Any suggestions?

You can get weld through primers that are supposed to prevent rusting. I've never used them myself so I can't really comment on how effective they are.

I suspect that this has more to do with profit that quality!

Charlie, When you are gas welding a large flat piece of mild steel eg say you might be cutting the bottom off the door of an old Jaguar or something and welding in a new section that you have made, then it is essential that you control the distortion of the metal caused by the heat of the torch. The best way to do this is to butt weld the joint so that after the repair you will have no overlap and will not be able to see that it has been repaired. It is best to use as little filler rod as possible and to tack the joint every inch or so to begin with. As you go you gently beat the panel with a hammer and dolly (basisally different shaped lumps of steel), dolly underneath the panel and hammer it on top. This relieves the tension in the metal and allows you to keep the shape you want as you go. When you have tacked it in place, you can then continuously weld it , but again planishing it as you go. End result, a perfect repair. This is also how repro wings etc are made ie in sections welded together. Curved sections of metal can be shaped on wheeling machines and rollers or by panel beating onto a sandbag. A gas torch and a special hammer and dolly can also be used to shrink metal that has stretched eg after a bump. This involves heating the affected area to cherry red and beating it in a certain way. As you say gas has many uses. Many people regard it as something of a black art simply because these kinds of skills are no longer learned by body shop workers today. MIG welding is very crude in comparison.

I wouldn't be without a set of gas bottles myself. I have both gas and MIG in my workshop and over the years I have used both extensively in restoring classic cars to sometimes national concourse standard. If I had to choose between them I would I would keep the gas anytime. It's by far the most versatile. You can weld mild steel, even thin 20 gauge, providing you take care to control the distortion created by the heat (Butt welding and planishing with a hammer and dolly as you go.) You can also with practice weld aluminium very effectively. The main problem is controlling the heat so that the ali does not simply melt away. Gas welding is very satisfying skill to learn and all the time you are in control of what you are doing eg the amount of filler rod you use etc. I've welded classic car wings with double curvatures and afterwards the repair is barely visible. When skimmed with a smidgen of filler or better still lead it's impossible to see the repair. An oxyacetylene heat source is also very useful in the workshop for freeing up seized nuts and bolts, for bending metal, tempering etc. I also use it for brazing which is much better than welding for frames. (as used by Eric Cheney etc ) MIG is OK for heavier work eg constructing a trailer, or if you're not too bothered about the appearance of the finished product. I'd like a TIG but can't justify the expense.

Up here in Yorkshire most people opt for the IRC. I use these on my B40 and they do perform well in both mud and on rocks. They provide a good deal of feel.

I assume that given the level of demand for the tlr that some may have been imported from Japan, USA etc as has happened for other types of bikes. If this is the case then does that mean that there may be a few bikes around fitted with the TL125 engine? Thanks Big John I'll keep looking on ebay for a carb. Which shop sells TL125 carbs? I've not heard of B&J racing, whereabouts are they?

Thanks for the info. It does seem that it is a 125 engine according to the engine number. It also feels like a 125 engine ie pretty gutless. Still it should be OK for the kids to ride having just progressed from a TY80 (great little bikes). The next job is to find and fit the right carb. The one that's fitted is way too big and it's choking up. RS mentioned some 22mm carbs advertised on ebay in the States for I think the SL or CL 125. Do you think one of these would suit?

I've just bought what is supposed to be a tlr200, but Im not sure if the engine is right for the bike. I may have bought a dog (wouldn't be the first time) but it was cheap and it runs so what the heck! The frame number is MD09-5****** which I believe makes it a TLR200E built between '84 and'87? The engine number is JD06E-1****** which I'm not sure about. Does anyone know if this is a tlr engine? Or how can I tell otherwise? Since I'm new to the Honda scene (apart from road bikes way back) can anyone tell me when the tlr's were produced?

Talking about forks. What should I do about the air pressure in the Marzocchi forks on my Seeley? Does it make much difference what pressure you have? Also what oil do people recommend? I've not ridden a bike with these forks before and since I've only recently acquired the bike(which needs a bit of fettling) I'd appreciate some advice.

How much for the seat unit?

It is a 22m carb. The local bike breakers sounds like a good idea. I wonder how much a carb will cost if I don't mention those 3 letters (TLR). Cheers mate

Thanks for the prompt advice lads. I did try Ellastone but they didn't have one. If they do get one it will be

Just bought a tlr 200 with apparently the wrong carb. It is a keihin but I think perhaps too big. After the bike has run for a short while it chokes up. Can anyone let me know what carb I need and where I might get one from? Also what jet size it should have etc. Cheers