Early 240s have an M8 thread with just a short bolt as a sump plug, later ones have M14.

Just to add to the debate; I find the gearbox gets quite notchy when hot if using ATF, my favourite is Putoline light gear oil.

I am not familiar with a Beta Zero. If you set the piston at TDC and look on the flywheel where the ignition trigger is, then put the stator in the position that aligns (as near as possible) the pickup coil with the trigger.

Yes you need to worry - only one of the positions is correct.

Are you going to tell him about the pinch bolt on the right hand side when he says it still wont come out.

Bill is extremely helpful, give him a call and he will sort you out.

I have an Adtek one on my 240. It needed modifying to fit, and it is also a bit on the thin side.

I expect everyone's preference is going to differ slightly with things like this. I moved mine down as far as possible but not back.

The lack of link pipe shouldn't make any difference. It sounds like it is far too rich - have you stripped the carb and made sure everything is working as it should? PHBL24BS is the right carb but I cant help with jet sizes etc; ring Bill Pye he will tell you what the spec should be.

There's an exploded view of a Minarelli engine on Bill Pye's website if its any help.

I made a new top nut and bottom spacer to fit yokes from a 243 to my 240, they would work with 241 yokes and I think they would work with 245 yokes too (I have a 245 I could measure to make sure);

I was thinking of making a batch if there was enough interest.......

The original carb on a 245 is a PHBH 26 CS, with an air pilot screw as opposed a fuel plot screw. £146.98 from Eurocarb.

Brown isn't earth:

Brown is power for lights and horn, orange is power for brake light.

Does it look like this:

http://www.ataq.qc.ca/galerie/showimg.php?file=/Mus%E9e/Fantic/fantic1986_301.jpg

Is it a twinshock or monoshock?

Some pictures here - might be useful?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/fantic-cg125-twinshock-trials-project-spares-or-repair-restoration-barn-find-/141521285678?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item20f353722e

Just remembered there is also an O ring between the spacer that sits inside the LH crank seal and the crank itself - you can see it on the parts list above.

The LH seal is in a separate carrier that is held in place by 3 screws - make sure the O ring between the carrier & crank cases is in good condition. The more difficult one is the RH one - you will need to hook it out with something without damaging the sealing surface of the crank.

Flywheel nut is a normal RH thread, and the arrow on the pressure plate lines up with a dimple on the clutch hub not the basket. I can look up the torque settings for when you put it back together if you like?

I would suggest not using sealant unless there is damage to the rim which is causing the leak. After watching Jim Snell's video I have fitted several rim bands and they all sealed first time. I use tyre fitting gel instead of soapy water though.

My 240 is an early one and has a M8 drain plug. Later ones had a larger plug - Billet parts sell a M14 x 1.5 magnetic plug for a Fantic but dont state what models it will fit.

The centre line of the rear wheel is going to have to line up with the centre line of the front wheel/steering stem and (probably) the centre of the swinging arm pivot - can you take some measurements and work it out?

Only 25 301s made? - I must have seen at least all of them!

I thought the operating pressure was usually stamped on the cap?

I like to use the full travel for the shag, never done it standing on the bike though....