never used a torque wrench in 30 years of working on bikes. Still waiting for the first problem....
Each to their own I suppose; I've never used an impact gun in 28 years of working on bikes, and similarly have never had any problems. I'm not saying its wrong to use one, I just don't see what advantage it gives.
The standard airbox is fine, infact as Woody says the standard bike is fine. In my opinion the mods to carbs, airboxes and frames etc are not really needed and are praised most highly by the person who wants to sell them to you. The 240 is amongst the best twinshock bikes there is, as long as everything works just riding it more will get you further up the results than fiddling with it.
Falcons on the back are superb. I have never changed the springs in my forks, there are early and late forks; the early ones have two seals, shorter springs with 50mm spacers, and steel damper rods, as Axsulv says these benefit from modifying to use one seal instead of two. The later forks have one seal, longer springs with a spacer of about 10-11mm, and alloy damper rods. I have got two 240s, one with early forks and one with late forks - I can't really feel any difference. Both have 5wt oil in them. I might try some Magical springs though; I keep reading good things about them.
I've never had a Sherco but have used this tool on about 10 different bikes, it isn't recomended for clutch hubs with v or half round grooves but looking here: http://www.sherco.com/wayne/Clutch_Disc_Replacement_Manual.pdf the Sherco grooves have two corners at the bottom, so as long as the fingers of the tool fit inside the case I would have thought it will work, mine is a Motion Pro tool and the fingers taper from 11mm to 16mm over a length of 26mm.
No workshop manuals are available for Fantics but Bob Wright has the owners handbooks on his website (not allowed to post a link to his site for some reason).
I have got a parts list showing exploded views of everything - PM me your e-mail and I will send it to you.
I am rebuilding a pair of 240 wheels at the moment and the offsets with the standard rims (1.6 & 1.85) are 19mm front and 62mm rear, both measured from the edge of the rim to the outer machined surface of the brake drum.
Not quite opposite on a 36 spoke wheel, dead opposite on a 32 spoke wheel. I have a brand new (36 hole) Morad rim sitting next to me which came with the rim lock hole already drilled; not quite opposite the valve hole.
Did the person who told you give you a valid reason for this position or just give a sage like nod? I cant see that it makes any difference how far from the valve it is, as long as it is between two diverging spokes.
MX9 probably wont suit a trials engine; it is made for moto-x bikes which generally have the nuts revved off them rather than chuffing around at low speed like trials bikes do. I would take no notice of what the previous owner used and select a suitable oil. Putoline do a trials specific oil, and there are plenty of others to choose from.
There isn't a 205, it was a 125.5. I have a parts list showing exploded views of everything for 125.5 245 and 305; PM me your e-mail and I will send it to you.
There should be an O ring between the flywheel cover and the crankcase which stops oil leaking along the kickstart shaft, on the 240 there is also one in a groove in the shaft (where they tend to snap) and on the later engines there is also one between the plastic flywheel cover and the flywheel casing. Using the later shaft in the earlier engine means only one O ring instead of two but it still works.
If both flywheels are as good as each other it doesn't matter which you use; the thread is only for a puller. Both of my 240s have the 26mm thread, I have only seen 32mm on the later mono flywheels.
Yes, I realise tubeless fronts are a thing of the past; can anyone tell me if a tubed front will stay on the tubeless rim OK? I have got a tube type rim I can lace up if needs be but it would be easier to use the one fitted if it will work.
Its a Fantic 245, initially I bought it to use the engine and forks on my Fantic 240 but have decided to ride it instead. The MT73s were on it when I bought it, I was just wondering whether they would be any good for competition or not.
I have a pair of unused Pirelli MT73 tyres that were on a bike I bought a couple of years ago - are they any good or should I bin them? The front is tubeless but has a tube in it (rim is tubeless) is this likely to work OK; I have read that tubeless fronts don't stay on the rim very well?
If the pilot screw is on the engine side of the carb rather than the airbox side then it is a fuel screw not an air screw - screw it in to weaken the idle mixture and out to make it richer. the big screw in the centre is the throttle stop - all it does is hold the throttle slide open a little as if you were holding the throttle open. You need to take the carb to bits to change the float height. Reading and understanding the tuning guide will be the easiest way to sort out your carb.
Its difficult without seeing the bike. If it dies unless you open the throttle then wind the throttle stop screw in until it doesn't. If it won't run at all without the choke then there could be a blockage in the pilot system somewhere. Has your pilot screw got a spring, a washer, and an o ring on it? Is it a PHBH or a PHBL and does it have a pilot air screw or a pilot fuel screw?
The main jet doesn't affect the idle at all but yes you should check it when you have got the bike running especially if you intend doing any trials with road work in them. The 28mm carb is about 26% bigger than the 26mm one but at idle when it is virtually closed the difference will be very small which is why I suggested you may need a 40 pilot but a 36 might be fine.
I would expect the air screw to be about 1&3/4 turns out. The tickover screw is just a stop for the slide - basically like holding the throttle open a bit, you don't need to count the turns on it infact it would be better to have it wound too far out than too far in. From the tuning guide:
"At idle the Carburetor supplies only the mixture required to keep the engine running at very moderate rpm. The engine needs only a small amount of air when idling and the throttle slide should therefore be almost completely closed."
An Easier Way To Remove The Clutch Basket?
in Sherco
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Each to their own I suppose; I've never used an impact gun in 28 years of working on bikes, and similarly have never had any problems. I'm not saying its wrong to use one, I just don't see what advantage it gives.