Does anyone know how easy it would be to fit some wheels from a modern bike in to a 245? Is it just a case of making up spacers or is there problems with the disk size/offset etc?
You shouldn't have to bump start it if there is nothing wrong with it. Before you start re-checking I would disconnect everything except the Red Green and White wires, (including the kill switch if there is one - this goes between the 4th terminal on the coil and ground).
Don't waste money on a new pickup - the readings you have taken suggest it is OK.
I think you need to double check the wiring between the stator and the coil, make sure the wires are plugged in to the correct terminals on the coil, use a new copper core HT lead screwed securely in to the coil and check for a spark from the end of it to the head (no plug cap).
If you are going to buy anything new buy a new coil.
So what you are saying is the resistance values at the CDI/coil spade terminals where the leads from the stator would normally attach - green spade to white spade and red spade to white spade between them should have the same resistance values as between the leads attached to the stator - green lead to white lead and red lead to white lead?
No, in my earlier post I said the green wire from the stator was the trigger and the red was power but that is only the case with earlier Fantic ignitions, on the later ignitions like yours the red stator wire leads to the trigger and the green is power.
It sounds like your stator is fine. what resistance readings do you get from your two ignition coils?
I have just measured a good stator: 117.4 ohms Red/White and 469 ohms Green/White. These are pretty close to your values from post #5 and those written on the wiring diagram - it sounds like your stator is good to me. (BTW I think I have got red & green the wrong way round in post #2).
The coil with the white tape is power for the ignition and the black box is the trigger, the other 4 coils power lighting and horn.
Can anyone tell me whether 201 crankcases are the same as 241/301 cases, is it just the flywheel cover that is different? Does anyone have a parts list for one too?
I would use a new plug cap as well - they don't last forever, infact a friend of mine laughed out loud when he was chasing an ignition fault and I suggested it could be the plug cap as it was 10 years old; instead he changed every other ignition component before conceding that it could be the cap - which it was.
You could check for a spark from the end of the HT lead with no cap fitted just to eliminate possible duff components.
The only things you need for the bike to run are the red green and white wires, the rest is all lighting etc, don't try and wire in a regulator. If you have a good stator and a good coil then it has to be either the wiring between the two or the plug/plug lead/plug cap. I would check the wiring between the stator and coil and use a brand new plug, plug cap and lead.
I've never had one rewound but it shouldn't be too hard to find a used one, I think you could probably use a stator from any 212/250 from a 241/301 onwards. I have used a 96 Section flywheel on a 245 and despite some small visual differences it is functionally identical.
The flywheel nut is a normal right hand thread. The white green and red wires are the ignition stator; red is power, green is trigger, white is ground, the other wire (usually brown) is power for the lights, if its not disconnected disconnect it, at least until you have solved your spark problem. There is no separate CDI; every thing is built in to the coil. I'm not sure what you should be looking for in term of resistances, the only wiring diagram I have has written on it (by hand) red/white 110 +/-5, green/white 500 +/-20 but it doesn't say whether these values refer to the coil or the stator.
The model down from a 247 was a 125.7. The capacity will be stamped on top of the right hand crankcase but you probably can't see it because the exhaust is so close on a 7 series bike. The 125 will have a smaller cast alloy flywheel cover though rather than the larger plastic cover on the 247 & 307.
I am thinking of getting a replacement tank for my 240 - how many people have one of the Classic Trial ones, and what are they like for fit & finish etc? It looks like it is based on a 200 tank rather than a 240?
Don't know what the difference might be but I have changed the seals on a 200 without splitting the cases.
The clutch side seal is inside the main bearing on a 240, so unfortunately you have to split the cases. Lee do you know where I can get Viton crank seals from, if I am remembering correctly the last clutch side seal I put in wasn't Viton but the ignition side was.
So, I have got about 410-420 cc of oil out of the gearbox, I put 500cc in about 4 trials ago - does that seem like a seal that has just started to leak?
Thanks Glenn, I have the owners manual(Bob Wright has the english version on his website to download), but I wanted to know what people are actually doing. I hope you are wrong about the crank seals - I dont fancy stripping the engine at the moment - too much to do. I will check how much gear oil is left, yesterday's trial was an 18 mile lap so if the clutch side seal is leaking it should show up.
Should you oil Fantic air filters? I have got a 240 at the moment and I have a vague recollection of Bill Pye telling me to run the filter dry with no oil, but that may have been for my 301 or 245 - can't quite remember. I am getting quite a bit of smoke from the exhaust at the moment and it gets a bit woolly when I open the throttle up a climb. I have just cleand the exhaust out thinking it could be that but I did a trial yesterday and it was still the same. I cleaned and oiled the filter recently (after 3 years not riding the bike) and am now wondering if that is the cause.
Ya know,If some one has stored parts for 15-20 years or spends his time tracking down obsolete parts inventories I think they deserve damn good profit for their work,so I don't mind paying the price,Amazingly the prices tend to stay in line with what you pay for similar parts for current models(I'm sure there's exceptions)
I also don't sweat high prices for vintage bikes in good shape as I've never been able to hang on to bikes for a long time without them getting pretty shabby, 40 years would rack up quite a storage fee anywhere...
I couldn't agree more; my reply didn't discuss the reasons for Bill's prices not being cheap, just stated the fact that they aren't. The point I was making is that Trinitrial shouldn't expect the parts to be cheap on the basis that the bike could be considered outdated. I have spent many thousands of pounds with Bill over the years and would be extremely disappointed if he wasn't there with his advice, information and extensive stock of (expensive) parts.
I got one of these to fix my gear lever, havent fitted it yet though. The only kickstarts that fit are Fantic ones and they are difficult to find and expensive (especially the alloy ones from the later models), if you are lucky replacing the pin and cleaning the spring & ball bearing up will revive yours. I find 11-39 to be the best gearing.
My best finish was third in the clubman class, would really like to have another go at it.
245 Wheels
in Fantic
Posted
Does anyone know how easy it would be to fit some wheels from a modern bike in to a 245? Is it just a case of making up spacers or is there problems with the disk size/offset etc?