richty250e

TY250E should look like this: shaft retained by a circlip. The spring hooks around the arm on the moving end and through a hole in the frame bracket on the static end. hope this helps Rich

For a manual try www.computeroutpost.com.au - they used to sell the Cycleserv manual covering the TY250B model, close enough to the E model for general restoration work. Cost $51 (australian dollars) to buy and ship to the UK. To dismantle your forks, drain the oil and use an air impact gun to loosen and remove the bottom damper tube allen bolt before you remove the top caps and springs. Once there is no weight on the damper tube it can just spin as you try to unscrew the bolt, so having some spring tension in there stops it spinning. There's loads of stuff in the archives about TY forks and how to dismantle etc. For parts try www.Francetrialclassic.com/uk and also www.yamaha-majesty.com who do trick fork caps with preload adjustment and modified damper tubes etc. Best of luck. Rich

Can second Philpotts for fork stanchion refurbs,

Dear All, If anyone is running/building a TY250 twinshock and needs a standard airbox, there is one on the UK auction site that rhymes with bidet at the moment. Item number 230609807568, part number 434-21240. regards Rich

I would be wary of using 'super' unleaded as I found it caused my brand new fuel lines to swell. Gone back to normal unleaded and no further problems. I heard that up to 10% ethanol was added to normal unleaded to boost the octane, so maybe this affected the fuel line. Have also started adding Yamalube fuel stabiliser as a precaution to stop any gumming up. No further problems so far.

I discovered that weld through primer makes a good exhaust paint. I used the UPOL weld-through primer aerosol (from Halfords) on a TY250 front silencer after a quick sand blast to remove the surface rust. The colour comes out as very close to an aluminium silver matching the WES back box, so far it has not rusted, flaked or discoloured. I even tried burning it off a test piece with a plumbers blowlamp and it survived in the flame for a good 30 seconds before discolouring, but still did not blister. Obviously this stuff is designed to protect spotwelds from corrosion so it must be capable of surviving high temperatures. regards Rich

Dear Bill, To make a tool to pull the crank into the case with main bearing installed you can use the following: Cut the lower 30mm off the bottom of an old rear damper tube then remove the piston rod leaving the remaining section of the damper tube which should fit snugly over the end of the crank and match the size of the main bearing inner race. Now weld an old wheel spindle nut to the end of a piece of M10 threaded rod. The nut and M10 rod can be screwed onto the crank (same thread as the flywheel nut) and using a large washer and M10 nut pull the crank through the main bearing using the tube from the shock. Same principle as the factory tool but using stuff you will probably have lying around. regards Rich

I would second Stork's comments. Auto transmissions have multiple epicyclic gear trains, wet clutches, bearings and seals all in a hot environment. I used to repair Renault automatic gearboxes and never saw a bearing fail, it was always the hydraulics valves or clutches which gave trouble. I've used Castrol TQF (ATF) Dexron III spec in my TY250 since its rebuild and had zero shift or clutch stick issues. Dexron III spec has extra additives. Mobil ATF220 is also a good Dexron II spec fluid which is mineral based.

Ah, someone else who bought the Avatar DVD and didnt like it on the little screen without the 3D.

very neat, although you won't be able to use it if you only have a daytime MOT ;-)

Also worth checking that the clutch release axle wedge (where the wedge shaped cam on the arm hits the end of the pushrod inside the gearbox case) hasnt got damaged. Mine had a lump of case hardening missing on the edge which contacts the pushrod. This will also give you a notchy clutch action. I ended up fitting a NOS part. To do the adjustment: loosen off the adjustment screw locknut. Turn the screw clockwise lightly until it stops (do not force it further). Now turn the screw anticlockwise and note the position of the release arm. The total range of adjustment is only half a turn. On the end of the adjustment screw is a pin which locates in a groove in the release arm. The pin is offset in relation to the centre line of the adjuster screw, so as you turn the screw it raises or lowers the release arm by a few mm. When the arm is at its lowest point the thickest part of the wedge is in contact with the pushrod. So to eliminate play you turn the screw till it moves downwards and touches the pushrod, then back it off a little and tighten the locknut. It sounds like you had it in the lowest position but still had the problem.

I've chucked a few photos in the TC garage of the whole bike.

Here's my solution to chain rub on my expensive powder coated swingarm: make up a small chain guide from sheet alloy lined with carbon fibre or nylon. The guide is secured at the rear by a cap head bolt screwed into a riv nut set into the swing arm chain lube filler hole, it wraps around the swing arm at the front.

Hello, Your bike is pretty close to mine (493-300925 frame and engine) which is from the 1977-78 build period. Might be you have a slightly later frame with an older engine. If you are ordering spares for the engine then you should be OK using those dates.

Hi Squid, A torque wrench is essential for 'critical' fasteners like head nuts, flywheel nuts, clutch hub nuts etc. A digital torque wrench will convert the settings for you. Have a look at this as an example of whats out there: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option...utm_medium=base